Devils Peak is a seldom climbed mountain about 19 miles east of Granite Falls. What Devils Peak lacks in elevation, it makes up for in local prominence and views. While only 5456' in elevation, it stands above its neighbors, and boasts 1716' of prominence. It is a fairly simple climb, easily accomplished in one day. Some parties elect to stay overnight in the Devils Lake Basin, and/or combine the climb with an ascent of Devils Thumb
. Virtually all parties summit via Devils Lake, and that is the route that will be described here.
Devils Lake is accessed as follows: Drive Deer Creek Road just over one mile to a closed logging spur (elevation 1968'). Walk this road approximately two miles until reaching the third switchback (variations are possible - read agreenstreet's page on Devils Thumb for an excellent route description and map). The road is not in great shape, but is suitable for pedestrians thanks to volunteer arborists armed with pruning saws. Upon reaching this switchback, look for flagging that will lead into the woods. The idea is to stay on the left side of the large creek draining Devils Lake (not the small creek you cross just after leaving the road) - it may be necessary to stay well left of this creek to avoid cliff bands and waterfalls. After about 3/4 mile, the terrain will level off, and you'll find yourself in Devils Lake Basin.
First view of Devils Peak from Devils Lake Basin
From this point, how you get to the base of Devils Peak will depend on the time of year. In May or June, it will probably be possible to ascend directly towards the peak - by July, it may be necessary to scout for a route that avoids the brush.
Devils Peak summit block
Ascend to the obvious notch just to the south of the summit block.
Devils Peak summit block from below
From here, easy class 3 climbing will bring you to a small notch were the "real" climbing begins. At this point, just 30' of easy class 4 climbing separates you from the ledge leading to the summit.
Close up of class 4 climbing on Devils Peak
The rock here is solid, and the hand and footholds are good. Braver souls will climb this portion unroped, but those desiring a belay can bring a few slings to loop over some small rock horns. Once finishing this section, an easy ledge leads to the right, then up, to the summit. The Cascade Alpine Guide recommends descending from the summit via rappel, but this seems unnecessary. An easy class 2 downclimb leads back to the ledge, where a 50' rappel (i.e. 100' rope) will bring you down to easy class 3. For those who want to rappel in style, a 75' rappel (i.e. 150' rope) will bring you down to easy class 2. The rappel tree is fairly obvious as it has about ten slings wrapped around it. In the picture below, one can see the ropes leading down from it.
This photo was taken from the minor summit just south of the true summit. The class 4 portion of the climb can be seen in the left third of the photo. From the top of the class 4 segment, the easy class 2/3 ledge can be seen heading right from the center of the photo. Also notice the rappel ropes leading down from the "rappel tree".
Below are a couple of summit panos taken from a different climb. Special thanks to tcingrum for letting me steal these pictures. Unfortunately, the sky was too hazy on my summit day to allow good panos.
Devils Peak summit pano - NE through SE
Devils Peak summit pano - SW through NW
Follow the Mountain Loop Highway east from Granite Falls. Deer Creek Road will be a left hand turn 1.0 miles past the town of Silverton.
Devils Peak route map. Side trip possibilities to Devils Thumb are also shown.
No permits are required for parking or for camping in this area.
Devils Peak can easily be climbed in one day. Devils Lake Basin would be an excellent location for a campsite if one desired to stay overnight. Overnight visitors may want to combine this climb with a climb of Devils Thumb
(see agreenstreet's route description for more detail).