Agulhas Negras

Overview

Pico das Agulhas Negras is the 6th highest mountain in Brazil, standing at 2,791.55 mts above sea level, making it the 2nd highest peak of Brazilian Highlands. It is located in Itatiaia National Park on the border of State of Rio de Janeiro and state Minas Gerais. For years, this mountain was thought to be the tallest mountain in Brazil, however, it was later found that Pico da Neblina in the Amazonas State was in fact the highest at 2994 mts.
The first climber to reach the top was Franklin Massena in 1856.
Agulhas Negras Massive is inside Itatiaia National Park, and it's the most famous mountain of Mantiqueira Range.
Brazilian Highland geological formation:
The Brazilian Highlands were formed in prehistory by a series . flood basalt eruptions, eventually forming a large igneous province. This event probably took place between 196 and 202 million years ago.
Itatiaia National Park (Parque Nacional de Itatiaia) created in 1937, is surrounded by the Mantiqueira mountain range and is accessible to the north of the highway that runs between the cities of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. Itatiaia is home to Brazil's third highest mountain Pico das Agulhas Negras which stands at 2,791 meters. The park attracts bird watchers from all over the world with its 250 species of birds. The park is surrounded by the Mantiqueira Mountain Environmental Protection Area which provides a ecological buffer zone for the park.

Getting There

Itatiaia's National Park is in the middle of the two most important cities of Brazil, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. From Rio, are 250 km of distance and you'll take car (4X4) or regular buses to Itatiaia, Cruzeiro, São Lourenço, Itamonte or Caxambu( all cities around the Park ) and drive to the Garganta do Registro( the upper point on the road) ant turns(at Garganta)to Agulhas Negras( more 17 km ). If you'll go there by bus, you'll start to walk at Garganta( 4-5 hours to camp )
2km past the park gate, the Abrigo das Reboucas, an out-of-used climbers hut, marks the start of the trail. Turning left off the jeep track, you must first cross the small dam over the Rio Campo Belo, and find the obvious path. After 30 minutes, you arrive at the only bifurcation on the trail. Keep right and continue another 15 minutes until the rock wall presents itself. There is a rope hanging down to help you up first shelf, thereafter the next 2 hours must be taken with care and balance. As with any mountain environment, make sure you have with you; spare food, map, compass, torch, whistle and first-aid. On a clear day the top gives views over the Paraiba do Sul Valley towards the Serra do Mar and Serra da Bocaina.
There are two other points worthwhile visiting if the weather is too rotten to ascend to Agulhas Negras: Pedra do Altar and Asa do Hermes, and they are certainly less frightening. Back at the turn, take the left branch and the trail descends to lovely views of the Aiuruoca Valley, on the north of the park.
MSN Mappoint - Agulhas Negras.

Red Tape

Itatiaia National Parkis an oldest Park in Brazil and have rules that climbers must know. To visit, you'll have to back at 17:00 pm , don't use inflamable liquids and the camp inside the Park is forbidden. There are a lot of parking cars at all trailheads. As possible to find water fountains and little rivers by various trails of Agulhas Negras and adjacencies.
Taxes do get into Itatiaia National Park:
US$ 2 per day
Timetable to visit:
08:00h to 17:00h
There are an obligation to have a guide for each group. This is a requirement of INP.

When To Climb

Itatiaia plateau at winter, is the best season to climb and walk. The temperatures are bland at day and very cold at night. At summer, the weather turns rainy ever at afternoon and extremely hot, and at night, freshness.
In 1983, was the coldest temperature at winter, before the sunrise: -17°C (June, 1983).

Routes to Climb Agulhas Negras

Some routes to climb the Massif:
Chaminé Aguiar - 2º IIsup
Via Aspirina - 4ºIV
Bira - 3ºIII
Travessia Carioca - 3º IIIsup
Travessura Carioca - 2º III
Diagonal - 3º IIsup
Paredão Estrela - 3ºIII
Chaminé dos Estudantes - 2º II
Via Formigueiro - IV
Chaminé Gean - IIIsup
Chaminé Jimmy - IIIsup
Travessia Longitudinal - Ivsup
Via Normal - 1º I
Paredão Oba-Oba - 3º V
Pontão Ricardo Gonçalves - 2º IIsup
Paredão Sherpa - 2ºIII
Via Usual - 1º Isup
Vó Filomena - III
Vovô Metralha - IIsup
Vovó Miloca - 2º III
Chaminé XIV de Julho - 2º II

Camping

Only one place to camp there. Pousada Alsene ( is a little hotel , with hot shower , bathrooms , campsite and restaurant ) is a good place to stay. The camping inside the National Park can't be able, because the new rules of National Park is forbidden.
Pousada Alsene – 2400mts.
Tents : U$S 6 per day, with hot shower;
Rooms : U$S 25 – 50 per day, with comfort.
Pousada Alsene tel: 55 32-9981-1217

Mountain Conditions

Brazilian weather site
Weather Resende ( Paraíba do Sul Valley )
Weather Itamonte ( Mountains of Mantiqueira )

Thanks for your visit !

Images

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