Munţii Retezat (ro) - Retyezát-hegység (hu)

"One of the most interesting and beautiful massifs in the Romanian Carpathians, Retezat Mountains are a perfect destination for all who love nature and mountains." (Cristi Malos, former page owner)

Rocky peaks, tarns, meadows...

The name of the range derivates from one of its peaks (Vf. Retezat), whose summit has a particular aspect as seen from distance: its top looks like having been cut off (cut-off = retezat in Romanian). The legend says the two giants fought and one of them cut off the summit’s top.

Geography

Retezat is probably the most prominent mountain area of the Southern Carpathians (also called sometimes "Transylvanian Alps"), covering almost 500 square km. Its average elevation is over 1500 m, with a quarter of its territory rising above 1800 m (and still rising in our days, by about 3.5 mm/year). The region, made up of mostly granite/grandiorite massifs, was formed by glaciers of the Pleistocene era. These glaciers streched over several kilometers (the longest one, in the Bucura Valley, could have surpassed 15 km). As a result of - in geological terms - recent glacial activity, Retezat is rich in beautiful tarns and waterfalls.

The world of Retezat Mountains

Especially the abundant blue and turcoise tarns (situated mostly, but not exclusively, between 1900 m and 2200 m above sea level) give this place a special charm. There are 82 lakes in total, including Romania's largest (in terms of surface area) and deepest glacial lakes: Lacul Bucura /Bukura-tó/ and Lacul Zănoaga /Zenóga-tó/, respectively. The lowest and highest lakes of Retezat are Tăul dintre Brazi /Fenyők-közti-tó/ (1740 m) and Tău Porţii /Kapu-tó/ (2230 m). Tău Ţapului /Zergebak-tó/ is remarkable because of its small island. In wintertime, all lakes get ice and snow cover, blending totally with the surroundings.

View of the Bucura glacial cirque from Bucura saddle

Some of the most important lakes (those highlighted with red are within the strictly protected Gemenele Reserve - see Red Tape section):

Name (RO)	Name (HU)	Area (ha)	Depth (m)	Elevation (m)
Lacul Bucura	Bukura-tó	8.8	15.7	2041
Lacul Ana	Anna-tó	3.1	11	1990
Lacul Lia	Lia-tó	1.33	4.3	1910
Lacul Slăveiu	Szlevej-tó	3.3	6.1	1930
Lacul Zănoaga	Zenóga-tó	6.5	29	1997
Tăul Negru	Fekete-tó	4	24.8	2036
Lacul Gemenele	Iker-tó	2.5	5.3	1920
Lacul Zănoaga Mica	Kis-Zenóga-tó	1.9	12.4	1900
Lacul Peleaga	Pelága-tó	1.7	4.2	2122
Lacul Galeş	Gáles-tó	3.68	20.5	1990
Tău Ţapului	Zergebak-tó	2.28	5.9	2070
Tăul Custura Mare	Nagy-Kusztura-tó	2.78	9	2226


Tău Ţapului	L. Ştirbu	Tău Porţii	L. Judele	L. Peleaga	L. Adânc	L. Galeş


L. Bucura	L. Zănoaga	Tarns of Valea Rea	Ştevia Lake	Tarns in Bucura valley

Lolaia waterfall

Retezat is a water divide between Mureş /Maros/ and Jiu /Zsil/ rivers' watersheds. Affluent creeks of the north side (Nucşoara /Nuksóra/, Râu Alb /Fehérvíz/, Râu Bărbat /Borbátvíz/ and others) join river Strei /Sztrígy/ directly, while those of the west and southwest (Lăpuşnicu Mare /Nagy-Lepusnyik/, Zlata, Râuşor /Malomvíz/ and others) first join Râu Mare /Sebesvíz/, which later enters river Strei. The southeast slopes of the southern main ridge - partly via Buta, Lazăru and Bilugu creeks (latter being the eastern border of Retezat) - drain to Jiu de Vest /Román-Zsil/, which is called Scocul in its upper region. The creeks of Retezat have several waterfalls, the two most notable ones being Cascada Ciomfu /Csumfu-vízesés/ in the very upper part of Râu Bărbat (more than 150 m in multiple cascades) and Cascada Lăpuşnicu Mare /Nagy-Lepusnyik-vízesés/ (about 20 m high, but with ample water flow).

The range is characterized by its two parallel main ridges that are connected by a short ridge, forming an H-shape. The northern ridge is higher, on average, than its southern counterpart. The west end of the southern main ridge (Piule-Iorgovanu ridge) consists of mainly limestone. This area, often referred to as "Little Retezat" (Retezatul Mic /Kis-Retyezát/), is rich in karstic formations: steep white walls, gorges, caves and dolinas characterize the scene.

Retezat has 55 peaks over 2000 m, the following table introduces the 7 highest ones (note: "peak" = "vârful" in Romanian, abbreviated as Vf.):

Rank	Name (RO)	Name (HU)	Height (m)	Location	Photo
I.	Vf. Peleaga	Peleága-csúcs	2509	main ridge N Lat: 45.366°N Lon: 22.893°E
II.	Vf. Păpuşa	Papusa-csúcs	2508	main ridge N Lat: 45.370°N Lon: 22.908°E
III.	Vf. Retezat	Retyezát-csúcs	2482	side-ridge from main ridge N Lat: 45.380°N Lon: 22.850°E
IV.	Vf. Mare	Nagy-csúcs	2463	main ridge N Lat: 45.384°N Lon: 22.922°E
V.	Vf. Custura	Kusztura-csúcs	2457	main ridge S Lat: 45.349°N Lon: 22.930°E
VI.	Vf. Bucura	Bukura-csúcs	2433	main ridge N Lat: 45.366°N Lon: 22.862°E
VII.	Vf. Judele	Zsudele-csúcs	2398	main ridge N Lat: 45.358°N Lon: 22.854°E

Due to erosion by frost-cracking, the terrain is almost exclusively rocky in the higher regions. Take caution when walking on this scree, partly because of unstable ground and partly because trail markations are harder to spot here (more on this in the Routes section).

Wildlife

Retezat is home to more than 1100 plant species (including Edelweiss, several species of Gentians, Rhododendron kotschyi, Doronicum carpaticum, Dianthus glacialis, etc.), at least 62 of them being endemic (Rubus retezaticus, Trifolium retezaticum, Festuca pacyphylla, Hieracium borzae and nigrilacus, just to name a few).

Gentiana acaulis

Rhododendron kotschyi

Pulsatilla alpina

Senecio incanus

Phyteuma orbiculare

Saxifraga stellaris

Centaurea nervosa

These mountains are inhabited by chamois, wolves, lynx, bears, otters and marmots (re-introduced in the seventies), several species of birds of prey, reptiles like salamanders and vipers (Vipera berus and Cerastes cornutus - take care on sun-warmed rocks, especially in Little Retezat). Trouts are common in lakes and creeks. Cows are brought up from the villages to graze in the summer.

Frog

Chamois

Horses

Getting There

Retezat Mountains can be easily accessed from north (Haţeg /Hátszeg/ town) and east (Petroşani /Petrozsény/ city), either by train or by car (described in detail below). It is also possible to drive or get a taxi ride up to Poiana Pelegii (campsite by the southern main ridge) from Haţeg town.

The two closest airports that have a range of international flights are:

Timişoara /Temesvár, Temeschwar, Temišvar/

Cluj-Napoca /Kolozsvár, Klausenburg/

From these cities you will have to take a car or a train to go further.

By car

If you decide to go by car, be aware that road toll has to be paid for the usage of main roads in Romania. You shall buy a vignette (called Rovinieta) at the nearest petrol station after entering the country. Vignettes are available for 7 days, 30 days and 1 year. Fees vary according to vehicle type. In June 2008, a 7-day vignette for a passenger car was 11 RON.

From the north

To North Retezat:

National road 66 (European E79) stems out of national road 7 (European E68) just east of Simeria /Piski/. Take this towards Haţeg and Petroşani. At Haţeg, you do not need to go into the town, just pass by, following 66 further to Petroşani. You'll pass through Sântămăria-Orlea /Őraljaboldogfalva/ and Ciopeia /Csopea/ villages and arrive into Ohaba de Sub Piatră /Kőaljaohába/ village (there is no sign that tells you the name of the village). Here make a turn to the right, towards Nucşoara /Nucsóra/ village (there's a road sign where you shall leave the national road). Follow the written signs for NP Retezat (or the blue tourist markation). You'll pass by Sălaşu de Jos /Alsószálláspatak/, Sălaşu de Sus /Felsőszálláspatak/ and Malaiesti /Malajesd/ villages before getting to Nucşoara. After Nucşoara, a dirt road (with pieces of stones - drive carefully) leads to Cabana Cârnic (hut). Further entrance with car is prohibited, but parking possibility is provided here (check the Huts section for more).

To South Retezat:

For this, you'll have to drive around the mountain range. Take national road 66 (European E79) from Simeria as described in the previous paragraph, but go all the way to Petroşani. From there, continue as described below.

From the east

To North Retezat:

From Petroşani, take national road 66 (European E79) towards Haţeg and Simeria and make a left turn at Ohaba de Sub Piatră village towards Nucşoara. Continue as described in the previous paragraph.

To South Retezat:

From Petroşani, take national road 66 (European E79) south and make a right turn at Iscroni (just by Petroşani) towards Uricani (national road 66A). This road has asphalt cover until Câmpu lui Neag. The continuation of this road leads to Buta gorge tourist center (Complex turistic Cheile Butii), where you can park the car. Accommodation is available here (ideal for climbing in Buta gorge), or by walking further up to Cabana Buta (hut, ideal for exploring the southern main ridge and Little Retezat).

Hints

After crossing the border, people (I'm not talking about officials) might try to stop you for exchanging Romanian money and selling Rovinieta. Do NOT buy vignette from these "roadside" people because the purchase has to be entered in a computer system and they apparently do not have that... (I've met this situation at the Nagylak/Nadlac HU/RO border station, do not know whether this is a general phenomenon everywhere or just a "local speciality"...)

Think over how much time you'd like to spend in the country, because once you get away from the border, it will be hard to get new Rovinieta. For us, the stay in Retezat Mountains turned out to be 8 days (I bought a 7-day vignette) and I was desperately stopping at each petrol station until Deva city, where I gave up and hoped for good luck.

I recommend using a route planner (two of them are listed in the External Links section) and get directions to Haţeg or Petroşani from where you are coming.

By train

minivan schedule

The nearest point of access is Ohaba de Sub Piatră, which can be reached from Deva /Déva/ or Petroşani by passenger trains that connect these cities. From Ohaba de Sub Piatră train stop, minivans (or as they are locally called, "maxi-taxi"-s) provide affordable means of getting to Cabana Cârnic, if you wish to skip the rather boring and long first section of ascending to the feet of the forests.

For up-to date information about available trains I recommend using the DB website to check actual situation (see the External Links section).

Routes

Hiking

Hiking routes in Romania are marked by red, yellow and blue colors, and use three shapes: stripe, dot and triangle. From this point, I will use abbreviations for these (for example: YT=yellow triangle, RD=red dot, BS=blue stripe, and so on...).

In general, markings are good, but at some places are not so adequate. For example in rocky regions the yellow signs are hard to catch sight of since they melt with the yellow-greenish lichen cover of the rocks. In such places you can often find "rock dummies" and metal poles as good substitutes (the latter also do good service in grassy meadows). Nevertheless, either red or blue color would be much more visible, and thus appropriate for these routes.

A huge rock dummy on the way - others are much smaller

The state of the trails is generally good, although the steep sections are often degraded by the strong traffic, with much of the larger stones having been rambled down and, leaving only unstable gravel and dust behind. Take care at these sections. Probably some trail stabilization and conservation work would be good to get done.

Trails that bypass peaks are rare. For example, to get to Vf. Păpuşa from lake Bucura, you have to scale Vf. Peleaga first, descend, and then ascend to Vf. Păpuşa. From lake Bucura to Vf. Retezat similarly, through Vf. Bucura. This is not bad at all :) but you shall be aware that in most cases you have to do the same kind of up-and-down journey on the way back as well!

Some trails are intended by the National Park Administration to be disused for different reasons. The markings of these trails are no longer maintained (and so are the trails themselves). Such trails are: the RS from Vf. Păpuşa to Vf. Mare (through the exposed Porţile Închise ridge section), the YT leading through Valea Rea valley and the RC connecting it with BS near Cabana Genţiana.

This schematic map shows the all major trails (yellow dots) of central Retezat.
White dots denote trails whose maintenance is discontinued.

Hover the mouse over the dots for peak (red dot) and hut/campsite (white dot) names.
Direction of huts/campsites situated in the outer areas of Retezat are shown by the arrows.
The boundary of Gemenele Reserve (see Red Tape below) is indicated by white dashed line.

Climbing

Though Retezat is not the climbers' ultimate paradise, places like Colţi Pelegii ("tusks of Peleaga") and the north-east wall of Bucura II offer good classic climbing routes (ranging from 2A to 5A and 1B-5B, respectively, according to the Romanian system - see below).

The ridge section by Vf. Judele and Poarta Bucurei offers exciting parts as well (2A-4B), but it also forms the border of the strictly protected Gemenele Reserve (see Red Tape below).

Further climbing possibilities (sports climbing) can be found on the limestone walls of Little Retezat, for example in the Buta gorge (Cheile Butii, difficulties: 1B-4A).

A comprehensive list of the over 70 climbing routes of Retezat (with hand-drawn sketches of Bucura II wall and Colţii Pelegii) is available here (page in Romanian).

The Romanian grading system follows the Russian grading system, classifying routes from 1 (easy) to 6 (extremely difficult), with sub-divisions marked by A (easier) and B (harder). This enables 12 grades, ranging from 1A to 6B.

Colţii Pelegii

Poarta Bucurei & Judele
(photo: csaki)

Bucura-II

Red Tape

The first nature reservation area, proposed by botanist Gyula Nyárádi E., was founded in 1927. Further work of botanist Alexandru Borza and speologist Emil Racoviţă resulted in the establishment of Retezat National Park in 1935 (as Romania's first NP). Its area exceeds 20,000 ha, with buffer zones adding up to more than 38,000 ha. Since 1980, Retezat National Park is a UNESCO Mand and Biosphere Reserve as well.

There is a strictly protected central zone (1630 ha), called Gemenele Scientific Reserve. Entry to this area is prohibited without written permission of the Romanian Scientific Academy (to be taken seriously)! The reserve is in the western part of the National Park, its boundary (on the east defined by the Vf. Retezat - Vf. Bucura - Poarta Bucurei - Vf. Judele ridge, in the south defined by the main ridge north of Zănoaga Lake) is marked by red square with white outline (a combination not used for hiking trails otherwise).

Peeping into the Gemenele Reserve (to the right)

Areas open to the public have some rules, too. It is forbidden to leave trails, camp outside of designated sites, or put up a fire. Swimming is prohibited in Bucura Lake (and the others as well, I suppose). You should bring all your trash back down with you when leaving (just like elsewhere)! Please do a favour for the mountains by fetching garbage that others have left behind. If you plan to climb, it might be advisable to contact the National Park administration (see External Links section below) and/or Salvamont (see Mountain Rescue section below) in advance.

As for the admission fee to the National Park, the situation is not clear. Some people report they were asked to pay entrance fee, some (like us, even though we tried to) not. Perhaps this is also dependent on where you enter and how friendly you are. Anyway, the admission fee should not be expensive. The main NP visitor center is by the road at Nucşoara - you may ask there (if you find it open).

Huts and Pensions

Huts (cabana in Romanian) are somewhat asymmetrically located: most of them being concentrated in the in the northwest (Cârnic, Pietrele, Genţiana) and southeast (Buta) region. These are described in more detail below. In the southwest and northeast former huts (Rotunda and Baleia, respectively) were shut down about a decade ago, however they are reported to be reopened in recent years. In addition, there are three touristic complexes with higher level of services available (Complex alpin Râuşor, Complex turistic Cheile Butii and Complex turistic Dorulet), plus a number of scattered pensions as well.

Mountain Chalets and Huts

Cabana Cârnic Cascadă (1005 m)

This rural pension/hut in the Nucşoara Valley (northern entrance to Retezat National Park, BS) is run by a kind couple who live there with their two children. The house can accomodate 32 persons (with the separate bungalow this can be increased up to 50) for 25 RON /person/night. Tap water, food and electricity are available. There is also camping and safe parking possibility (this is the farthest point that you are allowed to drive up, coming from the North). Parking was 49 RON for a week in a nice shady place. In high season (summer, but especially August) it is advised to book in advance.

Contact info:

+40/(0)722/748709 (Ioan Lasconi - husband - speaks Italian, Russian and some English)
+40/(0)744/131592 (Doima Lasconi - wife - speaks Italian)

Cabana Cârnic Cascadă

Cabana Pietrele (1480 m)

Located in the Stânişoara Valley (BS from Nucşoara, BC from Complex Alpin Râusor). The main hut, which once was able to accommodate up to 150 people, has burned to the fundaments in 2007 February. Other scattered bungalows are still available (they're better to be booked in advance) and there is possibility to camp as well. The designated camping area gets easily overcrowded, however.

Contact info:

Website of the old main hut: in Romanian, but has nice photos in the gallery section
Website of the whole hut complex: in Romanian, with online reservation possibility (list of the bungalows and prices)

+40/(0)722/715595 (Constantin Rădoi)

FORMER Cabana Pietrele
photo: Wilhelm Scherz

Cabana Genţiana (1670 m)

In the Pietrele Valley, between Bucura Lake and Cabana Pietrele (BS from both, but if you're coming from Nucşoara, you can make a shortcut - omitting Cabana Pietrele - by BT). More peaceful than the hut complex of Pietrele. This shelter is owned by the tourist club Montan Club Floarea Reginei. It provides accomodation for 40 people, and is open year-around. A special tea can be bought, the food you must take and cook yourself using your own stove. There are beds in the heated basement for 18 people, the rest of the places is on the unheated upper level. The price of accommodation is 20 RON or 15 RON per person per night (basement or upper level, respectively). Pre-scheduling with the maintainers is required.

Contact info:

Website: just a data sheet in Romanian on carpati.org Romanian mountain site

+40/(0)721/052920 (Csaba Bartók)
+40/(0)721/398509 (Lajos Deák)

(try to restrict calls between 12-14h and 19-21h GMT+2)

Cabana Genţiana

Cabana Buta (1580 m)

In the upper part of Buta valley (BS / RC either from Bucura Lake, via Poiana Pelegii, or Complex turistic Cheile Butii). Rebuilt in 2000, after the old hut burned down. It is reported to have accommodation possibility for 24 people in 4 rooms, and also a buffet. Open from March/April till late fall.

Contact info:

Website: just a data sheet in Romanian at carpati.org Romanian mountain site

+40/(0)254/511223 (Albert Piekny)
+40/(0)724/994703 (alternative nr.)
+40/(0)726/897763 (alternative nr.)

Cabana Buta
from external source

Cabana Rotunda (1160 m)

Mountain chalet in the valley of Lăpuşnicu Mare. Accessible by car from Haţeg (the road is asphalted until Gura Apei dam, from there it takes ~6 km on timber road to the hut, where parking is possible). The chalet was designated for (and used exclusively by) dictator Ceausescu’s family until the 1989 revolution. It can accommodate 20 persons with high comfort.

Contact info:

Website: English version available (attention, the online reservation doesn't work)

+40/(0)213/267991 (better try this if you want to reserve)

Office(at)rotunda.ro (don't expect answer...)

Cabana Rotunda
from external source

Complex turistic Cheile Butii (900 m)

Located by the Buta Gorge, in the southeast. Accessible by car from Petroşani on asphalted road. Reported to have motel with 130 beds, grid-connection, warm water, reastaurant and sports field. Concerning all the comfort, this place should rather be regarded as a mountain pension.

Contact info:

Website: accessible again after a dowtime, though only in Romanian

Cheile Butii complex
from external source

Mountain pensions

Cârnic area (~1000 m)

There are a few places in the vicinity of Cabana Cârnic Cascadă that offer alternative accommodation:

Codrin pension (website in Romanian - click on "Oferta noastra" to see some photos and the prices)

Tabara Crestina (Christian camp) (website has English and German versions with contact details and price information)

Complex alpin Râuşor (~1200 m)

Sarmis pension
photo: Dan Albu

A group of cottage houses on the west side of Culmea Lolaia /Lolája-gerinc/, accessible by car from Suseni /Szuszény/ (road got asphalt cover all the way up in 2006). Reported to have motel with 120 beds, grid-connection, warm water and reastaurant as well. There are signed trails towards Retezat peak and Pietrele hut, but the main attraction of this place is skiing. The ski-run (established about a decade ago) is 1200 m long, with 330 m elevation difference, its maximal slope is 38°.

Dora pension (website has English version as well, with contact details)

Sarmis pension (website has English version with contact details, but works only with IE)

Râu Mare (Big River) valley area

Complex turistic Doruleţ (website has English version as well, with online reservation form)

Dumbraviţa pension (flash website in Romanian - prices are in "Corp 1" and "Corp 2", phone numbers are provided)

Anita pension (website has English and German versions, with contact details)

Iris pension (website has English version, with contact details and online reservation form)

Camping

Camping is only allowed in designated areas. In the touristically most interesting central area (in a broader sense) these are:

Bucura Lake (2041 m)

The most centrally located, and thus most popular camping place on the southern shore of the lake.Many trails meet here: BS from Cabana Pietrele, RD from Zănoaga Lake, YD from Lăpuşnicu Mare, RC / BS combo from Cabana Buta and Poiana Pelegii, and YC from Vf. Peleaga (from Stâna din Râu direction). Its popularity is not without a reason: most of the "priority sights" are within the reach of a dayhike.

This is a windy place! Several stone fences are built on the site for wind protection - it is advisable to place your tent into one of them. On the east side of the lake you can find the Bucura refuge (2050 m). This is the station of the Romanian Mountain Rescue (Salvamont). If you get into trouble (for example, wind breaks your tent into pieces) this place serves as emergency shelter: they will put you up for one night, but then you'll have to leave.

Bucura Lake campsite

Drinking water can be found close by the refuge, where water is channeled in pipes from a spring. It is also possible to buy fresh milk (lapte in Romanian) and cheese (we used the French fromage word and it worked) from the sheperds in the evening hours. You'll most probably find them by a big rock near the western shore of the lake at this time of the day. Milk was 3 RON per liter, cheese was 12 RON per kg in August 2007. Both were very good! :) The only uncomfortable feature of this campsite is its "hard-to-bear" toilet, which forces lots of people to look for other suitable places in the area...

Cabana Pietrele (1480 m)

This campsite is located along the most popular access trail (BS coming from Nucşoara), at probably what was the most popular hut - at least in the north region - (see huts below), so it can easily get overcrowded with tents almost touching each other, forcing those who arrive late to set up theirs outside the designated area, in the woods (as it happened with us). Anyhow, if you can't start early enough to get up to Bucura Lake in time, this is the only place you can camp legally.

The site is below the treeline, so wind is not as much of a problem as it is in higher elevations. Food shall be handled keeping in mind the bears, however (not that if they would especially like crowded - and thus noisy - places, but just for safety). Water (potable) is available from an outlet by the bridge that crosses Stânişoarei creek (NOT from the creek itself). Just continue on the marked trail from the campsite towards the remains of the former main hut to get to the bridge (you'll pass a couple of wooden houses on the way).

Peaks accessible by dayhikes: Vf. Retezat, Vf. Bucura and Vf. Peleaga, Vf. Păpuşa, Vf. Mare.
Lakes accessible by marked trails: L. Stânişoara, L. Pietrele, L. Bucura, Lakes of Valea Rea, Tăul dintre Brazi, L. Galeş.

Lake Zănoaga (2000 m)

campsite: down by the lake

Located in the west region, just south below the northern main ridge (which forms the border of Gemenele Reserve here). The nearest high peaks are Vf. Judele and Vf. Bucura (with the wild Poarta Bucurei ridge section between them) but Vf. Retezat and Vf. Peleaga can also be reached by dayhikes. Several of the lakes can be seen from the trails around the area.

This place can be accessed from the valley of Lăpuşnicu Mare /Nagy-Lepusnyik/ creek (where you can get to by taxi from Haţeg, then follow YD and take BC / RT) or by foot from Bucura Lake taking the RD (might be considered as an option if the campsite over there is overcrowded and you want some peace - however, this way you're giving up on dayhikes to the eastern region).

Cabana Buta (1580 m)

Located in the south zone, by the Buta creek (next to the recently rebuilt Buta hut). This campsite seems to be the best for discovering Little Retezat and also suitable for dayhikes to the rest of the southern main ridge (i.e. Vf. Custura, but probably Vf. Păpuşa as well on the northern main ridge).

It can be accessed by following the BS / RC combination that connects Complex turistic Cheile Butii with Bucura lake, via Poiana Pelegii. Unfortunately I have no personal experience from this place.

Stâna din Râu (1650 m)

In the east region, near to a sheperd shelter next to Râu Bărbat /Borbátvíz/ creek. Can be accessed from Poiana Baleia (also a designated camping place, by the Baleia hut, assumed to be accessible by car from Hobiţa /Hobica/ village) by following the BT signs that ascend the southern main ridge from the east (for a while it goes along with RT signs but after Şaua Gorova /Gorova-nyereg/ the two signs depart from each other - you can also put up a tent legally at this point). I have only seen this site from the north ridge, it looked to be a peaceful one.

Nearby peaks: Vf. Custura, Vf. Păpuşa, Vf. Mare (Vf. Peleaga could be reached, too). Other sights possible to see from the distance (most of them only get visible once you've got up to either the northern or the southern main ridge): Cascada Ciomfu (waterfall), Custura Lakes, Tău Ţapului, L. Peleaga, Lakes of Valea Rea, L. Adânc, L. Galeş, Porţile Închise ridge.

Poiana Pelegii (1600 m)

Located between Lake Bucura and Cabana Buta (closer to the latter one), by the Peleaga /Felső-Lepusnyik/ creek (not far from Lăpuşnicu Mare waterfall). Accessible from these two on the trail marked with BS / RC, or by taxi from Haţeg. Since it is about halfway to both the central part of the north main ridge (Bucura valley and its peaks and lakes) and Little Retezat to the south, it can be a good starting point if you want to visit both areas from one place. I haven't been to this place yet, though.

Weather

While most pictures here show the sunny face of Retezat, this range is (in)famous of rain and wind. The amount of rainfall varies with elevation: at the foot of the mountains it's around 900 mm/year, but surpasses 1300 mm/year at medium height (1600-1800m). At higher elevations, the yearly amount of precipitation decreases. However, the number of days with precipitations is 175-180 out of 365 above the treeline. The most rainy month is June (with the heaviest rainfalls), the most dry is October. At higher elevations you can expect snowfall even in summer.

Annual average temperature is 6°C at the feet of the mountains and -2°C in the peak area. The coldest month is January, with average temperatures below -10°C in the peak area. On the ridges and peaks, the number of days with frost is around 260 per year, thus it usually takes a while for the winter snow to melt. In winter and late fall, thermal inversion can happen: the higher region gets warmer than the foggy valleys underneath (where temperatures below -30°C have been recorded). Nevertheless, fog is not restricted to the valleys: peaks can be cloud-covered for days. The warmest month is July, with 16/6°C average temperatures in the lower/upper region.

Wind blows almost all the time on ridges and peaks, at the time of storms it can reach 100 km/h. The most windy month is February, the least windy is August.

Online weather information (idea borrowed from Nanuls):

Nucşoara and Hobiţa (north region):

Weather Forecast | Weather Maps | Weather Radar | Hurricane Center

Câmpu lui Neag (southeast region):

Weather Forecast | Weather Maps | Weather Radar | Hurricane Center

Online weather situation for the city of Petroşani and another nearby meteo station, Cuntu is also provided by the Romanian National Meteorological Administration. All Romanian online stations can be accessed here.

Please note that these are data for villages at the feet of the mountains, they're good to get a general feeling of what's around. In the high regions the situation may be quite different.

When to Climb

It is possible to visit Retezat any time of the year, but the best conditions can be anticipated around late summer or the beginning of fall, when temperatures are still warm, yet rain is relatively scarce and winds are not so strong (on average). Be prepared that weekend traffic is usually large compared to other days. Cabana Pietrele and the Bucura Lake campsite may get crowded.

A nice summer day on the northern main ridge

In winter, Salvamont station at Bucura Lake is left unattended, but it is possible to bivouac there. Good judgement is essential if you are heading to the central, high zone in snow, because the place is deserted then. Avalanches are most frequent in late winter and in springtime. Steep slopes, for example the upper parts of Stânişoara, Pietrele, Galeş Bucura and Buta valleys can be dangerous.

Winter panorama from Peleaga (photo: csaki)

Mountain Rescue

Bucura refuge

The Romanian Mountain Rescue service (Salvamont) provides the following phone numbers for Retezat:

Constantin Rădoi (chief of Salvamont Hunedoara): +40/(0)722/715595
Ovidiu Bodean: +40/(0)723/392210

Primaria Hunedoara (Hunedoara town hall): +40/(0)254/716322 (fax.: +40/(0)254/716087)

The national Salvamont dispatcher is: 0-SALVAMONT (0725-826668)

Salvamont personnel is also stationed at the Bucura refuge in the summer period (from 15/June till 15/September). In the winter season they are not present in the refuge!

Maps

Paper maps

Munţii Retezat/Retyezát-hegység/Retezat Mountains (1:50,000) by Dimap, with guiding text on the backside in English, Romanian and Hungarian. Can be ordered online from Dimap here or from Map-info here (online shop > maps > mountain maps).

Munţii Retezat/The Retezat Mountains/Das Retezat Gebirge (1:50,000) by Bel Alpin, with text in English, German and Romanian. Saw it at Cabana Cârnic (in Aug, 2007) for 20 RON and online here for 10 RON.

Both maps are nice and well done. The (few and minor) deviations I've found compared to what I've seen on the terrain, appear on both maps. These are:

I think Judele peak (and probably Judele pass as well) is a little north from where the maps indicate it. Not to worry about too much, since the trail leads you the right way.

There is a path (not indicated on the maps) leading from Judele pass to the summit of Judele peak, following the ridge. Pay attention, some parts are exposed with high walls below.

Porţile Închise is traversed by the trail marked with RS coming from Vf. Papuşa (not indicated fully on the map). I assume the trail continues further towards Vf. Mare (had no time to check it out all the way, because of need to turn back).

At Zănoaga lake, there seemed to be - viewn from the distance - a little wooden house just by the shore (not indicated on the map by Dimap). The map by Bel Alpin indicates refuge there.

Online maps

free GPS-based maps are available from openmaps.eu

further online maps can be found on the Romanian mountain site alpinet.org (see External Links section)

the website of Retezat National Park (see External Links section) also has some maps

Overview maps of the region

Overview map taken from this external source

See also the raster map of the broader region at the Retezat tourism association website.

Miscellaneous

Acknowledgements

In addition to personal experience, I have also used a tourist guide book (Retyezát Hegység by Péter Jancsik, in Hungarian) to provide more complete information (i.e. about some of the huts, year-around weather, depth and size of lakes, Iorgovan's legend).

Time zone

Romania is in the Eastern European time zone (GMT+2)

Currency

The new Romanian leu (RON) was created in 2005 from the old leu (ROL) by chopping off the last 4 zeros (so that 10,000 old lei - plural of leu - is 1 new leu). While nowadays the banknotes in use are the new ones, sometimes it happens that people tell you prices in old lei, but doing it in units of thousands, which can be quite confusing. An example: "80" can easily mean 80,000 old lei, which is actually 8 new lei... What really helps is to convert the amount to a currency that is familiar to you (exchange rates: online converter) and compare it with "Western European" prices for the same thing. The Romanian price should generally be less (or about the same but never higher).

The legend of Iorgovan (translated from Péter Jancsik's aforementioned guidebook by me)

"It happened in those old times, when multiple-headed, fire-breathing dragons were the lords above the rocks, that Iorgovan, a strong young man was in love with a beautiful sheperd girl. One day, the girl didn't come back from the mountains. Iorgovan went to look for her, but his long and desperate search was in vain. Being saddened by the big loss, he decided not to return to his home in Wallachia, but to live in reclusion at the rock which is named after him today.

Iorgovan had been living like that for a while, when one day a beautiful female voice echoed from the distance. He immediately reckognised the voice of his lost love, who was kidnapped by a dragon. Iorgovan knew that he was thought to be dead at home, so he headed down to the other side of the mountains, to Transylvania, where he acquired a huge, 40-centner maul. Next time when the dragon was enjoying the sun on a nearby rock, Iorgovan took a horse to hop over the other rock and battled him, but the dragon was stronger.

Iorgovan survived, but was very upset about the defeat. So, he went down to Transylvania again, and this time he got an even bigger, 99-centner maul. With this he battled the dragon once again, and won after a long fight. The dragon breathed fire in his anger, turning all the trees and bushes in his way into ash. Iorgovan chased him all the way until the border. Here the dragon turned to him and said: "Well, Iorgovan, until now I was the lord of the mountains and all the animals who live there... from now on, you will be, but I'll send deadly flies to take a revenge on you and your herd".

The dragon left towards the mountains of Mehadia, and bled to death in one of its caves. His fire heated up the springs so much that flies still keep on coming and continuously pestering poor cattle in the mountains since then. And the horseshoe imprint of Iorgovan's horse can still be seen on the top of Iorgovan's rock..."

There are a couple of things to learn from this story. 1) Keep an eye on your girlfriend while you are in Retezat - who knows, other dragons might be around. 2) If you fail, be sure to get at least a 99-center maul in Transylvania, otherwise you haven't got any chance. 3) There must be a dragon mummy in one of the caves of Mehadia mountains - whoever finds it first, will be world famous! :)

Dinosaurs of Transylvania

Important dinosaur fossils (perhaps the great-grandfathers of Iorgovan's dragon?...) were found at Sânpetru /Szentpéterfalva/ (just north from Retezat, in the Haţeg basin) in the end of th 19^th century. The fossils (most important ones: Telmatosaurus transsylvanicus, Rhabdodou priscus, Magyarosaurus dacus and Megalosaurus hungaricus) age back to 65-68 million years (late Cretaceous period).

Cetatea Colţ /Kolc-vár, Kendeffy-vár/

The most preserved fortress ruins of the area can be found by Suseni /Szuszény/ village, in a breathtaking setting: on top of a steep rock formation, on the right side of Râuşor creek. First mentioned in 1493 (only a tower stood then), the fortress was still inhabited in 1670. Today's 7-8 m high walls were more than 10 m high in the past. It is not easy to find the way up (old markations are missing due to clearcut forest), but the ruins offer great view to Haţeg basin.

External Links

Retezat National Park official homepage - (note: the site tends to be temporarily inaccessible from time to time)

Retezat on PAN Parks page - short introduction

A good online article about Retezat (translated into English from Romanian)

Driving directions: ViaMichelin, map24

Train search: DB search engine

For Romanian speakers:

Asociaţia de Turism Retezat - new page of the recently founded Retezat touristic association

Retezat page on alpinet.org - with up-to-date news section, maps (SRTM map, topo map) and huts info

Retezat page on carpati.org - similar to the alpinet.org page

For Hungarian speakers:

Retyezát honlap - informational website dedicated to Retezat.

Retyezát oldal on the Hungarian Carpathian Association's website - includes some interesting vintage trip reports from the late 19^th and early 20^th century (from the archives of Turisták Lapja vintage periodical)

For German speakers:

Pages about Retezat, Little Retezat and a map of its caves

Images



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