Overview
| Overview |
Rock ClimbingThe climbing at Blockhouse Buttress is affected by the tide, the degree of which can depend on the time of year and weather. The start of the routes can be reached by abseiling onto the large landward slanting slab at the base of the crag.Climbs are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers Club Guide to Pembroke and the Pembroke Supplement, so for full descriptions, please refer to those books. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Hard Severe (HS) or above. Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembrokeshire, so don’t even think about it here. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE! Route Symbols:
Weather Conditions and TidesWeather ForecastThis section displays the weather forecast for Bosherston, which is located just to the east of Blockhouse Buttress. This gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Bosherston and the Blockhouse Buttress area sit at around sea level. Tide TimesTide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest port to Blockhouse Buttress:
When to Climb and Essential GearThe most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; a good compliment of friends or other camming devices will certainly help. A singe 50 metre rope should serve well on most easy routes, however, twin or double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, you might want to bring along an abseil rope to speed up access to the base of the crag.Getting ThereWhen approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, take the A477 Trunk Road towards Pembroke Dock (SM 969 036). Before reaching Pembroke Dock, turn left onto the A4075 (SN 019 027) to Pembroke (SM 989 012). In Pembroke, drive straight over the first small roundabout you reach and drive along the A4139 a few hundred metres and turn left and take the B4319 south towards Castlemartin (SR 915 983). Around 2.5km after Saint Petrox (SR 971 975), take a left hand turn (SR 965 964) signposting Bosherston (SR 965 9470). Drive through Bosherston (or stop for a cup of tea at Mrs Weston's Olde Worlde Café) to the Saint Govan's Car Park (SR 966 930).  From the car park, walk south to a small guard house and turn right (west), cross the stile at the guard house, and walk along a gravel road passing Stennis Ford and Huntsman's Leap and the Devil’s Barn. Follow the track and cross a fence at a cattle grid. Soon the buildings and masts near The Castle will come into view (SR 955 933), keep these to your left and carry on towards a second fence. Blockhouse Buttress is the cliff where this fence meets coastline above a large landward slanting slab (SR 951 936). Red Tape and AccessBlockhouse Buttress is located in the Range East portion of the Castlemartin Range. This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. It should be noted that Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually. Please check the notice boards in Stack Rocks or St Govan’s car parks for more information. The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority also produce an excellent annual information leaflet illustrating the restricted areas on a clear map - download it from this LINK. It is also available from the BMC, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority and Mrs Weston’s Café in Bosherston. Camping and AccommodationThere’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:Youth Hostel Association in Wales Independent Hostel Guide Campsites in Pembrokeshire For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website. Maps
Guidebooks
External LinksGovernment Bodies and Other Organisations Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority Council for National Parks Association of National Park Authorities Pembrokeshire County Council Carmarthenshire County Council Ceredigion County Council Countryside Council for Wales Forestry Commission Wales Environment Agency CADW Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales Dyfed Archaeological Trust The National Trust Maritime and Coastguard Agency Outdoor Organisations and Companies British Mountaineering Council Pembrokeshire Climbing Club Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group South Wales Mountaineering Club The Climbers Club UKClimbing Weather Weather from the Met Office BBC Weather Weather Channel UK Tide Tables BBC Tide Tables UK Hydrographic Office Tourist Information Visit Wales Visit Pembrokeshire South West Wales Tourism Partnership Local Information from Pembrokeshire Pages Local Information from Pembrokeshire Online Travel Information Welsh Public Transport Information Uk Train Timetable Accommodation Youth Hostel Association in Wales Independent Hostel Guide Campsites in Pembrokeshire Maps and Guidebooks Ordnance Survey Cicerone Guidebooks Climbers Club Guidebooks Rockfax Guidebooks Mid Wales Climbing Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop Wildlife and Conservation Joint Nature Conservation Committee Royal Society for the Protection of Birds Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre South West Wales Wildlife Trust Sea Trust Pembrokeshire Bird Group Welsh Language Welsh Language Board Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group Cymuned Welsh language pressure group Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association) Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon Images |
