Overview
| Overview |
Rock ClimbingThe climbing at Craig Caerfai can be split into a number of distinct areas, the best of which is the Main Slab, home to Amorican and Caerfai Crack. All routes are in some way affected by the tide, the degree to which is very much dependant on the time of year and weather.Climbs are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers’ Club Guide to Pembroke, the Pembroke Supplement and the new Rockfax Pembroke guide, so for full descriptions, please refer to these books. In addition to these sources, Rockfax’s website has descriptions for the routes included in their book, which can be viewed on their online route Database. Routes are graded using the British Adjectival Grading System. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Severe (S) or above. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE! With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited anywhere in Pembrokeshire, so don’t even think about it here. Route Symbols:
Left WallTo the left of the Main Wall is a small area where some short routes have been recorded. Access the base of the crag by descending an easy line to a large wave cut platform to the left of some corners.
Main SlabTo put it simply, Main Slab is heaven for mid-grade climbers. Armorican (VS 4c) is of course the jewel in the crown, but other routes are good value too. Check out Caerfai Crack (VS 4b) for some fun and remarkably straightforward climbing. There are a number of metal stakes in place along the top of the cliff; these can be used as anchors for both abseiling and belaying. The quickest descent is definitely by abseil, but check if anyone’s below before throwing your rope over – you don’t want to be knocking any climbers off in the process. If you lack an abseil rope, access can be gained by down-climbing White Corner (Diff), again, make sure no one’s on route before you do so, because passing people on your way down is dangerous and rude.  
 A deep water solo has been recorded up the overhanging prow in the cave left of the Main Wall. Access it by swimming.
Undercut Red WallTo the right of the Main Wall is an undercut red wall bounded on its right by a a jutting nose of rock. You'll find it at the junction between Caerfai Bay and the square-cut subsidiarity bay.
Right of Farmer's Groove is another slab with twin corners on its right and another slab right of these.
The following routes can be found on the cliff directly opposite the Main Wall. Approach at low tide by climbing across boulders.
 BoulderingIf you lack a rope or a partner, there can be few prettier places to boulder than Caerfai Bay, which providing the tide is low, can be accessed from the beach. When it’s not low it would do you to find somewhere else to climb as the problems will be underwater. Unfortunately, the quality of the rock isn’t always the best, varying from a firm sandstone that is more like Peak grit to something else altogether more soft and variable, probably still sandstone. Because of this care is needed, not against breaking the holds but against ruining the more delicate rock formations – this is a very special place, don’t spoil it. The most interesting rock can be found by following the cliffs rightwards from the bottom of the path to a very pretty little cave. The bouldering here is of variable quality, the better rock being rather limited; on its own, a worthy bouldering destination this does not make. However, on the overhanging back face of the obvious buttress at the bottom of the path, there is some good bouldering, including a desperate low-level traverse. Heading in the opposite direction, a lot of rock is friable, and whilst there are a few problems on good rock, including a roof, it would be sad to damage the more friable surfaces. Weather Conditions and TidesWeather ForecastThis section displays the weather forecast for Solva, which is located to the east of St. David’s Head. It isn't the closest settlement to the crag, that honour goes to the city of St. David's, unfortunately the tool for St. David's doesn't seem to work. Either way, this still gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Solva and Craig Caerfai sit at around sea level. Tide TimesTide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest monitoring station to Craig Caerfai:
When to Climb and Essential GearThe most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; lots of small nuts will do you well for most routes. A singe 50 metre rope should serve well on most routes, however, double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, you might want to bring along an abseil rope as this is the best method of reaching the base of the crag.Getting ThereAlthough there are a variety of ways to get to Craig Caerfai, which is located just the south of St. David’s, most will probably be coming from the west. If so, when approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, continue along the A40 towards Haverfordwest (SM 962 158). Here you will need to leave the A40, take a short detour through the town, and take the smaller A487 which will signpost St. David’s (SM 753 253).As you enter the city there will be a left hand turn with a signpost directing you to a car park, park and ride and visitors centre (SM 757 252). Take this turn and follow the road to its terminus, here you will find a small parking area overlooking Caerfai Bay (SM 759 243). You will be able to see Craig Caerfai from this vantage point, it’s the crag at the end of the promontory on the eastern side of the bay. From the parking area, take the coastal path eastwards and follow it around the top of Caerfai Bay and out towards the promontory. Here the path gets very close to the top of the Main Slab, which is marked by a number of metal stakes used as anchors (SM 761 240). Abseil from these stakes or down climb White Corner (Diff). Red Tape and AccessNo red tape here!Although unlikely it's worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place. Countryside Access Map  Camping and AccommodationConveniently, there are two great campsites at Caerfai Bay, either of which would make the perfect place to stay if climbing in the area:Caerfai Organic Farm Caerfai Bay Caravan and Tent Park For the wider area, there’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. The city of St. David’s and its hinterland is particularly well provided for. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites: Youth Hostel Association in Wales Independent Hostel Guide Campsites in Pembrokeshire For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website. Maps
Guidebooks
External LinksGovernment Bodies and Other Organisations Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority Council for National Parks Association of National Park Authorities Pembrokeshire County Council Carmarthenshire County Council Ceredigion County Council Countryside Council for Wales Forestry Commission Wales Environment Agency CADW Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales Dyfed Archaeological Trust The National Trust Maritime and Coastguard Agency Outdoor Organisations and Companies British Mountaineering Council Pembrokeshire Climbing Club Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group South Wales Mountaineering Club The Climbers Club UKClimbing Weather Weather from the Met Office BBC Weather Weather Channel UK Tide Tables BBC Tide Tables UK Hydrographic Office Tourist Information Visit Wales Visit Pembrokeshire South West Wales Tourism Partnership Local Information from Pembrokeshire Pages Local Information from Pembrokeshire Online Travel Information Welsh Public Transport Information Uk Train Timetable Accommodation Youth Hostel Association in Wales Independent Hostel Guide Campsites in Pembrokeshire Caerfai Organic Farm Caerfai Bay Caravan and Tent Park Maps and Guidebooks Ordnance Survey Cicerone Guidebooks Climbers Club Guidebooks Rockfax Guidebooks Mid Wales Climbing Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop Wildlife and Conservation Joint Nature Conservation Committee Royal Society for the Protection of Birds Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre South West Wales Wildlife Trust Sea Trust Pembrokeshire Bird Group Welsh Language Welsh Language Board Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group Cymuned Welsh language pressure group Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association) Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon Images |
