Craig Caerfai

The climbing at Craig Caerfai can be split into a number of distinct areas, the best of which is the Main Slab, home to Amorican and Caerfai Crack. All routes are in some way affected by the tide, the degree to which is very much dependant on the time of year and weather.

Routes are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the old Climbers' Club Guide to Pembroke, the old Pembroke Supplement and the 2009 Rockfax Pembroke guide. Since then, the Climbers' Club have published a new comprehensive guide for this area, Pembroke Volume 1: Pembroke North, which adds a significant number of new crags and routes to the area, though the changes to this pages' crags are few. Neverthless it is recommended that you refer to this or the Rockfax book for up-to-date information and route descriptions. In addition to these sources Rockfax’s website also has descriptions for the routes included in its book, which can be viewed on its online route Database.

Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available: download it here. With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembroke, so don’t even think about it here.

Route Symbols:

A so-so route, neither good nor bad. Not unpleasant unless otherwise stated. A good route which is definitely worth a climb. A very good route, one of the best on the crag and well worthy of attention. An excellent route, one of the best in the area, and probably in Britain too.

No Restrictions Used to indicate that there are currently no restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. Restrictions Used to indicate that there are restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. See the Red Tape and Access Section for more details.

To put it simply, Main Slab is heaven for mid-grade climbers. Armorican (VS 4c) is of course the jewel in the crown, but other routes are good value too. Check out Caerfai Crack (VS 4b) for some fun and remarkably straightforward climbing. There are a number of metal stakes in place along the top of the cliff; these can be used as anchors for both abseiling and belaying. The quickest descent is definitely by abseil, but check if anyone’s below before throwing your rope over – you don’t want to be knocking any climbers off in the process. If you lack an abseil rope, access can be gained by down-climbing White Corner (Diff), again, make sure no one’s on route before you do so, because passing people on your way down is dangerous and rude.

A deep water solo has been recorded up the overhanging prow in the cave left of the Main Wall. Access it by swimming.

To the right of the Main Wall is an undercut red wall bounded on its right by a a jutting nose of rock. You'll find it at the junction between Caerfai Bay and the square-cut subsidiarity bay.

Right of Farmer's Groove is another slab with twin corners on its right and another slab right of these.

The following routes can be found on the cliff directly opposite the Main Wall. Approach at low tide by climbing across boulders.

If you lack a rope or a partner, there can be few prettier places to boulder than Caerfai Bay, which providing the tide is low, can be accessed from the beach. When it’s not low it would do you to find somewhere else to climb as the problems will be underwater. Unfortunately, the quality of the rock isn’t always the best, varying from a firm sandstone that is more like Peak grit to something else altogether more soft and variable, probably still sandstone. Because of this care is needed, not against breaking the holds but against ruining the more delicate rock formations – this is a very special place, don’t spoil it. The most interesting rock can be found by following the cliffs rightwards from the bottom of the path to a very pretty little cave. The bouldering here is of variable quality, the better rock being rather limited; on its own, a worthy bouldering destination this does not make. However, on the overhanging back face of the obvious buttress at the bottom of the path, there is some good bouldering, including a desperate low-level traverse. Heading in the opposite direction, a lot of rock is friable, and whilst there are a few problems on good rock, including a roof, it would be sad to damage the more friable surfaces.

Tide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest monitoring station to Craig Caerfai:

Ramsey Sound (SM 714 244)

The most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; a good compliment of friends or other camming devices will certainly help. A single 50 metre rope should serve well on most easy routes, however, double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, you might want to bring along an abseil rope to speed up access to the base of the crag.

Although there are a variety of ways to get to Craig Caerfai, which is located just the south of St. David’s, most will probably be coming from the west. If so, when approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, continue along the A40 towards Haverfordwest (SM 962 158). Here you will need to leave the A40, take a short detour through the town, and take the smaller A487 which will signpost St. David’s (SM 753 253).

As you enter the city there will be a left hand turn with a signpost directing you to a car park, park and ride and visitors centre (SM 757 252). Take this turn and follow the road to its terminus, here you will find a small parking area overlooking Caerfai Bay (SM 759 243). You will be able to see Craig Caerfai from this vantage point, it’s the crag at the end of the promontory on the eastern side of the bay. From the parking area, take the coastal path eastwards and follow it around the top of Caerfai Bay and out towards the promontory. Here the path gets very close to the top of the Main Slab, which is marked by a number of metal stakes used as anchors (SM 761 240). Abseil from these stakes or down climb White Corner (Diff).

Conveniently, there are two great campsites at Caerfai Bay, either of which would make the perfect place to stay if climbing in the area:

Caerfai Organic Farm
Caerfai Bay Caravan and Tent Park

For the wider area, there’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. The city of St. David’s and its hinterland is particularly well provided for. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website.

No red tape or access issues here!

For climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) runs a Regional Access Database, which holds mountain/crag specific information on matters of conservation and access, including issues such as nesting restrictions, nature designations and preferred parking:

Regional Access Database

If you are in any doubt about any particular access arrangement, or need to report an incident, you should contact your local BMC Access Representative or the BMC Access Officers for Wales: Elfyn Jones.