Welcome to SP!  -
Porth-Clais
Mountain/Rock

Porth-Clais

 
Porth-Clais

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Wales, Europe

Lat/Lon: 51.86761°N / 5.27924°W

Object Title: Porth-Clais

County: Pembrokeshire

Activities: Trad Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 66 ft / 20 m

 

Page By: Nanuls

Created/Edited: May 15, 2010 / Apr 15, 2011

Object ID: 621558

Hits: 3231 

Page Score: 86.37%  - 22 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

Porth-Clais is one of northern Pembroke’s most famous crags and is a firm favourite for many who visit the area. Just a short walk south from the eponymous little harbour that has served the city of St. David’s since the Middle Ages, the crags occupy an attractive little headland and consist of two beautiful clean slabs separated by a more broken and somewhat less appealing zawn. The two slabs are of course Porth-Clais’ principle attraction and both hold routes that are well known for their classic status.

The most westward of these slabs is the Dreamboat Annie Wall, which is home to a number of excellent routes in the Very Difficult to Very Severe range. The wall’s main attraction is of course Dreamboat Annie itself, a route established in 1978 by Al Evans and originally given the grade of E1 5a. Since then it has been re-graded as HVS 5a, a move that attracted its fair share of controversy and is far form being universally accepted. East of the broad zawn is the strikingly coloured Red Wall, home to three good routes ranging from Severe to Very Severe and one poor one graded Difficult. The wall’s original route, also known as Red Wall, which was first recorded by Colin Mortlock back in 1967, is still considered to be the best; it is graded S 4a and will swallow as much gear as you can throw at it. Limited bouldering is also available, with sea level traverses de rigueur; no need for expensive crash mats here… just a big tide and a towel. Those who exhaust what Porth-Clais has to offer, or who just want a bit of variety, will find further interest just few minutes walk away at Porth-y-Ffynnon, which offers two excellent slabs with routes from Difficult to E1.

Rock Climbing

The climbing at Porth-Clais can be split between two walls, namely the Dreamboat Annie Wall and the Red Wall. There are also a handful of routes in between the two. Both crags offer a classic and eponymous route each, the former giving Dreamboat Annie (HVS 5a) and the latter Red Wall (S 4a). All routes are in some way affected by the tide, the degree to which is very much dependant on the time of year and weather.

Red Wall - S 4a (Photo by Nanuls)

Climbs are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers’ Club Guide to Pembroke, the Pembroke Supplement and the new Rockfax Pembroke guide, so for full descriptions, please refer to these books. In addition to these sources, Rockfax’s website has descriptions for the routes included in their book, which can be viewed on their online route Database.

Routes are graded using the British Adjectival Grading System. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Severe (S) or above. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE! With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited anywhere in Pembrokeshire, so don’t even think about it here.

Route Symbols:
NO STARS A so-so route, neither good nor bad. Not unpleasant unless otherwise stated.
1 STAR A good route which is definitely worth a climb.
2 STARS A very good route, one of the best on the crag and well worthy of attention.
3 STARS An excellent route, one of the best in the area, and probably in Britain too.
NO RESTRICTIONS No Restrictions

Used to indicate that there are currently no restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route.
RESTRICTIONS Restrictions

Used to indicate that there are restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. See the Red Tape and Access Section for more details.

Dreamboat Annie Wall


The Dreamboat Annie Wall is a great little place to climb no matter what grade you feel most comfortable at. Access can be made by traversing in from the left, or more easily, by abseiling in from the top. There’s no shortage of good anchors and most visitors choose the latter option. It’s worth noting that the crag is tidal, and that to avoid getting wet prospective climbers should wait until the channel separating the crag and the platform at its base is clear. The photograph below was taken at high tide.

The zawn to the east can be accessed either by abseiling in from the top of the Red Wall or by traversing in from the Dreamboat Annie Wall. From personal experience, I would recommend the abseil. According to popular consensus Ship of Fools (HS 4b), Zawn Climb (HS 4b) and The Cracker (S) are considered to be horrible and dangerous and are better off avoided.

Dreamboat Annie Wall (Photo by Nanuls)

No. Name Length Pitches Adjectival
Grade
Technical
Grade
Quality Restrictions
1. Against the Grain 12m 1 VD NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
2. Harbour Crack 12m 1 VD 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
3. Glaze Crack 14m 1 HS 4b 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
4. Porth-Clais Crack 14m 1 HS 4b 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
5. Diagonal Crack 21m 1 S 4a 2 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
6. Vegetable Rights 15m 1 VS 4c 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
7. Frieze 15m 1 VS 4c 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
8. All Lines Engaged 15m 1 HS 4b 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
9. Sea Rider 17m 1 VS 4c 2 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
10. Dreamboat Annie 18m 1 HVS 5a 2 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
11. Inset 18m 1 S 4a 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
12. Ship of Fools 20m 1 HS 4b NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
13. Zawn Climb 23m 1 HS 4b NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
14. The Arête 22m 1 HS 4b NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
15. Porth-Clais Corner 14m 1 D NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
16. The Cracker 12m 1 S NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS


Red Wall


Ticking off a route on the Red Wall is a must do for all first time visitors to Porth Clais. The starts of the routes are essentially non-tidal and climbers are likely to remain dry in all but the liveliest of seas. With the exception of Red Adair, which is best reached via abseil, the routes are accessed by scrambling down to the right of the wall and then stepping across an obvious chimney to the base of the wall. The step across can be protected by throwing a sling around a large flake, but this will definitely fall off once you start your ascent proper. There’s a subtly placed stake at the top of the slab which can be used as an anchor; it’s easy to miss, so a rece is advised before committing to the route.

Red Wall - S 4a
(Photo by Nanuls)

Red Wall Right-Hand - VS 4b
(Photo by Nanuls)
Red Wall (Photo by Nanuls)

No. Name Length Pitches Adjectival
Grade
Technical
Grade
Quality Restrictions
17. Red Adair 15m 1 S 4a 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
18. Red Wall 21m 1 S 4a 2 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
19. Red Wall Right-Hand 18m 1 VS 4c 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
20. Porth-Clais Chimney 15m 1 D NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS

Weather Conditions and Tides

Weather Forecast


This section displays the weather forecast for Solva, which is located to the east of Porth-Clais. It isn't the closest settlement to the crag, that honour goes to the city of St. David's, unfortunately the tool for St. David's doesn't seem to work. Either way, this still gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Solva and Porth-Clais sit at around sea level.



Tide Times


Tide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest monitoring station to Porth-Clais:

04 Ramsey Sound Ramsey Sound (SM 714 244)

When to Climb and Essential Gear

The most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; lots of small nuts will do you well for most routes. A singe 50 metre rope should serve well on most routes, however, double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, you might want to bring along an abseil rope as this is by far the best method of reaching the base of the Dreamboat Annie Slab.

Red Wall Right-Hand
Red Wall Right-Hand - VS 4b
(Photo by Nanuls)
Porth-Clais
Accessing Dreamboat Annie
(Photo by Nanuls)
Porth-Clais
Red Wall - S 4a
(Photo by Nanuls)

Getting There

Although there are a variety of ways to get to Porth-Clais, which is located just the south of St. David’s, most will probably be coming from the west. If so, when approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, continue along the A40 towards Haverfordwest (SM 962 158). Here you will need to leave the A40, take a short detour through the town, and take the smaller A487 which will signpost St. David’s (SM 753 253).

Enter the city and continue to the 'roundabout' with a Celtic cross at its centre (SM 753 253). Take the first exit left, which is signposted to 'Porth-Clais 1.5 miles'. Follow this road all the way to the National Trust car park at the little eponymous harbour (SM 740 242). There is a £2 charge for parking here. From the car park follow the path along the left hand side (western side) of the harbour for 5 minutes until you reach the little headland that is home to Porth-Clais' crags (SM 743 238).

Red Tape and Access

No red tape here!

Although unlikely it's worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

Porth Clais
Directions
(Photo by Nanuls)
Porth Clais
Dreamboat Annie Wall
(Photo by Nanuls)
Porth Clais
Emergency phone
(Photo by Nanuls)

Camping and Accommodation

Conveniently, there's a great campsite at Porth-Clais, which would be an ideal base for those wanting to climb at any of the crags along this stretch of coast:

Porth-Clais Farm Campsite

For the wider area, there’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. The city of St. David’s and its hinterland is particularly well provided for. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website.

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code
Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 35 North Pembrokeshire/Gogledd Sir Benfro

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 157 St David’s & Haverfordwest/Tyddewi a Hwlffordd

Road Maps

OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide by Alf Alderson, John Cleare and Ian Mercer.

A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
Climbers Guides to Wales: Pembroke Climbers' Club Guides to Wales: Pembroke by John Harwood, Dave Viggers et al.

An extremely comprehensive two volume guidebook to the area which describes most of the routes at Porth-Clais.
Climbers Club Pembroke Supplement Climbers' Club Pembroke Supplement by Dave Viggers

A little book containing updates to the Climbers' Club Guide and costs around a fiver.
Rock Fax Guide: Pembroke Rock Fax Guide: Pembroke by Alan James and Mike Robertson

Not quite as comprehensive as the Climbers Club guides, but lavishly illustrated with tons of large photo diagrams and topos.

External Links

 
Red Wall Right-Hand
Red Wall Right-Hand - VS 4b (Photo by Nanuls)

 
Red Wall Right-Hand
Red Wall Right-Hand - VS 4b (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Red Wall Right-Hand
Red Wall Right-Hand - VS 4b (Photo by Nanuls)

Government Bodies and Other Organisations

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority
Council for National Parks
Association of National Park Authorities
Pembrokeshire County Council
Carmarthenshire County Council
Ceredigion County Council
Countryside Council for Wales
Forestry Commission Wales
Environment Agency
CADW
Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales
Dyfed Archaeological Trust
The National Trust
Maritime and Coastguard Agency

Outdoor Organisations and Companies

British Mountaineering Council
Pembrokeshire Climbing Club
Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group
South Wales Mountaineering Club
The Climbers Club
UKClimbing

Weather

Weather from the Met Office
BBC Weather
Weather Channel UK

Tide Tables

BBC Tide Tables
UK Hydrographic Office

Tourist Information

Visit Wales
Visit Pembrokeshire
South West Wales Tourism Partnership
Local Information from Pembrokeshire Pages
Local Information from Pembrokeshire Online

Travel Information

Welsh Public Transport Information
Uk Train Timetable

Accommodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire
Porth-Clais Farm Campsite

Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey
Cicerone Guidebooks
Climbers Club Guidebooks
Rockfax Guidebooks
Mid Wales Climbing
Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop

Wildlife and Conservation

Joint Nature Conservation Committee
Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre
South West Wales Wildlife Trust
Sea Trust
Pembrokeshire Bird Group

Welsh Language

Welsh Language Board
Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group
Cymuned Welsh language pressure group
Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association)
Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon

Images