Overview
| Overview |
Rock ClimbingThe climbing at Porth-Clais can be split between two walls, namely the Dreamboat Annie Wall and the Red Wall. There are also a handful of routes in between the two. Both crags offer a classic and eponymous route each, the former giving Dreamboat Annie (HVS 5a) and the latter Red Wall (S 4a). All routes are in some way affected by the tide, the degree to which is very much dependant on the time of year and weather.  Climbs are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers’ Club Guide to Pembroke, the Pembroke Supplement and the new Rockfax Pembroke guide, so for full descriptions, please refer to these books. In addition to these sources, Rockfax’s website has descriptions for the routes included in their book, which can be viewed on their online route Database. Routes are graded using the British Adjectival Grading System. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Severe (S) or above. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE! With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited anywhere in Pembrokeshire, so don’t even think about it here. Route Symbols:
Dreamboat Annie WallThe Dreamboat Annie Wall is a great little place to climb no matter what grade you feel most comfortable at. Access can be made by traversing in from the left, or more easily, by abseiling in from the top. There’s no shortage of good anchors and most visitors choose the latter option. It’s worth noting that the crag is tidal, and that to avoid getting wet prospective climbers should wait until the channel separating the crag and the platform at its base is clear. The photograph below was taken at high tide. The zawn to the east can be accessed either by abseiling in from the top of the Red Wall or by traversing in from the Dreamboat Annie Wall. From personal experience, I would recommend the abseil. According to popular consensus Ship of Fools (HS 4b), Zawn Climb (HS 4b) and The Cracker (S) are considered to be horrible and dangerous and are better off avoided. 
Red WallTicking off a route on the Red Wall is a must do for all first time visitors to Porth Clais. The starts of the routes are essentially non-tidal and climbers are likely to remain dry in all but the liveliest of seas. With the exception of Red Adair, which is best reached via abseil, the routes are accessed by scrambling down to the right of the wall and then stepping across an obvious chimney to the base of the wall. The step across can be protected by throwing a sling around a large flake, but this will definitely fall off once you start your ascent proper. There’s a subtly placed stake at the top of the slab which can be used as an anchor; it’s easy to miss, so a rece is advised before committing to the route.
Weather Conditions and TidesWeather ForecastThis section displays the weather forecast for Solva, which is located to the east of Porth-Clais. It isn't the closest settlement to the crag, that honour goes to the city of St. David's, unfortunately the tool for St. David's doesn't seem to work. Either way, this still gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Solva and Porth-Clais sit at around sea level. Tide TimesTide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest monitoring station to Porth-Clais:
When to Climb and Essential GearThe most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; lots of small nuts will do you well for most routes. A singe 50 metre rope should serve well on most routes, however, double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, you might want to bring along an abseil rope as this is by far the best method of reaching the base of the Dreamboat Annie Slab.Getting ThereAlthough there are a variety of ways to get to Porth-Clais, which is located just the south of St. David’s, most will probably be coming from the west. If so, when approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, continue along the A40 towards Haverfordwest (SM 962 158). Here you will need to leave the A40, take a short detour through the town, and take the smaller A487 which will signpost St. David’s (SM 753 253).Enter the city and continue to the 'roundabout' with a Celtic cross at its centre (SM 753 253). Take the first exit left, which is signposted to 'Porth-Clais 1.5 miles'. Follow this road all the way to the National Trust car park at the little eponymous harbour (SM 740 242). There is a £2 charge for parking here. From the car park follow the path along the left hand side (western side) of the harbour for 5 minutes until you reach the little headland that is home to Porth-Clais' crags (SM 743 238). Red Tape and AccessNo red tape here!Although unlikely it's worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place. Countryside Access Map Camping and AccommodationConveniently, there's a great campsite at Porth-Clais, which would be an ideal base for those wanting to climb at any of the crags along this stretch of coast:Porth-Clais Farm Campsite For the wider area, there’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. The city of St. David’s and its hinterland is particularly well provided for. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites: Youth Hostel Association in Wales Independent Hostel Guide Campsites in Pembrokeshire For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website. Maps
Guidebooks
External LinksGovernment Bodies and Other Organisations Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority Council for National Parks Association of National Park Authorities Pembrokeshire County Council Carmarthenshire County Council Ceredigion County Council Countryside Council for Wales Forestry Commission Wales Environment Agency CADW Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales Dyfed Archaeological Trust The National Trust Maritime and Coastguard Agency Outdoor Organisations and Companies British Mountaineering Council Pembrokeshire Climbing Club Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group South Wales Mountaineering Club The Climbers Club UKClimbing Weather Weather from the Met Office BBC Weather Weather Channel UK Tide Tables BBC Tide Tables UK Hydrographic Office Tourist Information Visit Wales Visit Pembrokeshire South West Wales Tourism Partnership Local Information from Pembrokeshire Pages Local Information from Pembrokeshire Online Travel Information Welsh Public Transport Information Uk Train Timetable Accommodation Youth Hostel Association in Wales Independent Hostel Guide Campsites in Pembrokeshire Porth-Clais Farm Campsite Maps and Guidebooks Ordnance Survey Cicerone Guidebooks Climbers Club Guidebooks Rockfax Guidebooks Mid Wales Climbing Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop Wildlife and Conservation Joint Nature Conservation Committee Royal Society for the Protection of Birds Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre South West Wales Wildlife Trust Sea Trust Pembrokeshire Bird Group Welsh Language Welsh Language Board Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group Cymuned Welsh language pressure group Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association) Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon Images |
