Saddle Head : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

The steep limestone cliffs of the Castlemartin Range are notorious for their serious nature, hard climbs and committing starts. Just looking at some of the routes here is enough to make your hands sweat and your legs shake in nervous apprehension. However, if you look for it, the climbing here isn't all crimpy holds and overhangs, because dotted along the coast are a number of crags with far friendlier personalities. Saddle Head is one such crag, and in fact, is probably the friendliest crag in the area, for it can boast more easy to mid grade climbs than any of its neighbours. This combined with the option to down climb rather than abseil to its base, makes it an ideal introduction to the area, and a superb initiation for the less experienced. If you are into your harder climbs though, fret not, as the grades reach a very respectable E5 6b.

Sea Mist – Hard Severe 4a
(Photo by Nanuls)

Pink ‘Un – Very Severe 5a
(Photo by Nanuls)

Rock Climbing

The climbing at Saddle Head can be split between five areas: Saddle Head North/Cyclops Eye Area, Saddle Head Main Cliff, Upper Tier, Saddle Head Tip and The Devil's Barn, which can be further subdivided into West and East Walls. With the exception of the Upper Tier, all areas are in some way affected by the tide, the degree of which can depend of the time of year and weather. Saddle Head North and The Devil's Barn both require abseils to reach. Metal stakes are in place at the top of the cliff to facilitate this.

There is a radar station surrounded by a wire enclosure situated at the top of the cliffs. It cannot be stressed too strongly that climbers should avoid damaging the wire fencing and at all costs refrain from using any part of the installation, including fence posts, as belay anchors. Past incidents have resulted in climbers being asked to leave, and in the interest of future access rights, such incidents must be avoided in the future.

Crags and climbs are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers Club Guide to Pembroke and the Pembroke Supplement, so for full descriptions, please refer to those books. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Hard Severe (HS) or above.

Looking west from Saddle Head towards Stack Rocks and the Green Bridge of Wales (Photo by Nanuls)

Sea Mist - Hard Severe 4a (Photo by Nigel Lewis)

Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembrokeshire, so don’t even think about it here. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE!
Route Symbols:

	A so-so route, neither good nor bad. Not unpleasant unless otherwise stated.
	A good route which is definitely worth a climb.
	A very good route, one of the best on the crag and well worthy of attention.
	An excellent route, one of the best in the area, and probably in Britain too.

	No Restrictions Used to indicate that there are currently no restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route.
	Restrictions Used to indicate that there are restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. See the Red Tape and Access Section for more details.

Saddle Head North/Cyclops Eye Area

This area lies between the Hollow Caves area and Saddle Head. The eponymous Cyclops Eye is a prominent cave high in the cliff, located some 140 metres north of the radar installation. Immediately north of the Eye is a pillar, and north again a sea level cave with a fluted slab on its right. An abseil is required to reach the base of the crag.

No.	Name	Length	Pitches	Adjectival Grade	Technical Grade
1.	Hades	52m	2	VS	4c, 4b
2.	The Empty Quarter	27m	1	HS	4b
3.	Slip and Slide	27m	3	VS	4c, 4b
4.	Unbelievable Stories	34m	2	HVS	4c, 4a
5.	Telling Stories to the Sea	21m	1	E2	5c
6.	Kipper	21m	1	E1
7.	Hotter Than July	30m	2	E2	5b, 4b
8.	Sharp Practice	18m	1	E1	5b
9.	Between the Pub and the Deep Green Sea	18m	1	E1	5b
10.	Sunform	23m	1	E4	5c
11.	New Route Fever	23m	1	E3	5c
12.	Bridge of Size	18m	1	HVS	5a
13.	Size Isn't Everything	23m	1	E3	6a
14.	Persuasion	18m	1	E1	5b
15.	A Stretch of the Imagination	27m	1	E1	5b
16.	A Grand Day Out	21m	1	HVS	4c
17.	Yoiks	18m	1	HVS	5a
18.	Whoops	18m	1	HVS	5a
19.	Whoopee	18m	1	E1	5a
20.	Whoopee-variation	18m	1	HVS	5a
21.	Low Velocity	15m	1	E5	6b
22.	So Low	21m	1	VS	4b
23.	High Velocity	27m	1	E3	6a
24.	Trajectory	21m	1	HVS	5a
25.	Honeycomb	27m	2	HVS	5a, 5a
26.	Brochette	21m	1	HVS	5a
27.	Sea Serpent	24m	1	E4	5c
28.	Spring Low	18m	1	HVS	5a
29.	Sweet Chariot	18m	1	HVS	5a
30.	Dunk	24m	1	VS	4b
31.	Blazing Saddles	24m	1	HVS	5b
32.	Stirrup Pump	27m	1	HVS	5a
33.	Red Toupee	24m	1	E2	5c
34.	Time Slip	24m	1	E3	5c
35.	New Labour	43m	1	S
36.	Leaning to the Left	43m	1	HVS	5a
37.	Spin Doctor	43m	2	E1	5a, 4b
38.	Orima	38m	2	E2	5b, 4b
39.	Barbed Wire Blues	43m	2	E1/2	5b, 4b/c

Saddle Head Main Cliff

The Main Cliff lies directly below the radar station and rises over 50 metres above a huge flat platform, which is exposed for a short time at low tide, and not at all during neap and heavy tides. The crag can be accessed by scrambling down towards the tip of the point until easy rock leads down to the long terrace that gives access to the Upper Tier climbs. The flat platform is reached either by abseil or by down climbing to its right-hand end.

Abseiling is the quickest way to the start of the routes (Photo by Nanuls)

Saddle Head glowing in the winter sun (Photo by Nanuls)

No.	Name	Length	Pitches	Adjectival Grade	Technical Grade
40.	Rimoa	38m	2	E4	5c/6a, 4b
41.	Illusion	46m	1	HVS	5a
42.	1988 Aktivator	52m	2	E1	5b, 4c
43.	Birdman of Alkatraz	55m	2	VS	4a, 4c
44.	Political Animal	24m	1	HVS	4c/4a
45.	The Love Commandos	24m	1	HS	4b
46.	Snap	24m	1	E1	5b
47.	Evening Light	24m	1	E4/E5	6a
48.	Underklingon	24m	1	E5	6a/b
49.	Houlet's Chimney	61m	3	HVS	4c, 4a, 4c
50.	Rantum Scoot	55m	3	E2	5b, 3d, 5a
51.	Mustapha Bindum	30m	1	VS	4c
52.	Eaves Dripper	46m	2	HVS	4c, 4c
53.	Blue Sky on the Right	55m	2	VS	4c, 4c
54.	Blue Sky	55m	2	VS	4b, 4b
55.	Blue Lagoon	21m	1	E1	5b
56.	Red Alert	40m	2	HVS	4b, 5a
57.	Landvetter	55m	2	VS	4b, 4b
58.	Air Waves	46m	2	VS	4b, 4b

Upper Tier

The upper tier is passed en route to the Main Cliff, and can be reached either by abseil or by scrambling down towards the tip of the point. The crag is entirely non-tidal, and is an ideal initiation ground for begginers.

Sea Mist – Hard Severe 4a (Photo by Nigel Lewis)

Small Beginnings - Difficult (Photo by Nanuls)

No.	Name	Length	Pitches	Adjectival Grade	Technical Grade
59.	Haze	30m	1	VS	4b
60.	Sea Mist	27m	1	HS	4a
61.	Breaking Wind	27m	1	E1	5b
62.	Sunset Boulevard	27m	1	HVS	5a
63.	Pink 'Un	27m	1	VS	5a
64.	Broade	27m	1	HS	4b
65.	Infra Red	27m	1	S
66.	Wetstone	27m	1	HS	4b
67.	Urchin	27m	1	S	4a
68.	Buff	27m	1	VD
69.	Flake-Quake	27m	1	S
70.	Fel Gwyr	27m	1	D
71.	Forgotten Corner	27m	1	VD
72.	Small Beginnings	27m	1	D
73.	Nameless Wall	27m	1	HS	4b
74.	No Hands	27m	1	VS	4b
75.	Smilin Jugs	27m	1	E2/3	5c
76.	Get on Lord	27m	1	E2	5b
77.	Final Groove	21m	1	D

Saddle Head Tip

Saddle Head's Tip is reached by descending a slanting ramp and chimney on the west side of the headland to high tide level.

No.	Name	Length	Pitches	Adjectival Grade	Technical Grade	Quality	Restrictions
78.	Assassination Run	21m	1	E1	5a
79.	First Time	46m	2	HVS	5a, 4c

The Devil's Barn

Sitting between Saddle Head in the west and Bosherton Head in the east is the lardge double zawn known as the Devil's Barn. With the exception of the period around high tide, the bed is dry, and can be reached by abseiling from a cemented post at the back of the landward zawn. There is a restriction because of nesting birds here between 1st March and 31st July, the geographical extent of which is marked by a couple of small red bollards.

The Devil's Barn and Saddle Head (Photo by Nanuls)

West Wall

No.	Name	Length	Pitches	Adjectival Grade	Technical Grade
80.	Out on Bale	24m	1	E2	5b
81.	Making Hay	30m	1	E3	6a
82.	Wedge it in Tight	24m	1	E4	6a
83.	Peccadillo	37m	1	E2	6a

East Wall

No.	Name	Length	Pitches	Adjectival Grade	Technical Grade
84.	Barnstorm	37m	1	E2	5c
85.	Epitome	46m	2	E1	5a, 5b
86.	Ruff-n-Ready	24m	1	VS	4c
87.	Lucifer	26m	1	E1	5b
88.	Holey Smoke	24m	1	HVS	5a

Weather Conditions and Tides

Weather Forecast

This section displays the weather forecast for Bosherston, which is located just to the north of Saddle Head. This gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Bosherston and Saddle Head sit at around sea level.

Weather Forecast | Weather Maps | Weather Radar | Hurricane Center

Tide Times

Tide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest port to Saddle Head:

Stackpole Quay (SR 992 957)

When to Climb and Essential Gear

The most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. If you plan to climb at The Devil's Barn avoid the period between 1st March and 31st of July as climbing is banned on this section of the crag between these dates.

The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; a good compliment of friends or other camming devices will certainly help. A singe 50 metre rope should serve well on most easy routes, however, twin or double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, an abseil rope is essential if you plan to climb the crags less accessible areas.

The Nameless Wall – Hard Severe 4b (Photo by Nanuls)

Sea Mist – Hard Severe 4a (Photo by Nigel Lewis)

Sea Mist – Hard Severe 4a (Photo by Nigel Lewis)

Getting There

When approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, take the A477 Trunk Road towards Pembroke Dock (SM 969 036). Before reaching Pembroke Dock, turn left onto the A4075 (SN 019 027) to Pembroke (SM 989 012). In Pembroke, drive straight over the first small roundabout you reach and drive along the A4139 a few hundred metres and turn left and take the B4319 south towards Castlemartin ( SR 915 983). Around 2.5km after Saint Petrox (SR 971 975), take a left hand turn ( SR 965 964) signposting Bosherston (SR 965 9470). Drive through Bosherston (or stop for a cup of tea at Mrs Weston's Olde Worlde Café) to the Saint Govan's Car Park (SR 966 930).

From the car park, walk south to a small guard house and turn right (west), cross the stile at the guard house, and walk along a gravel road passing Stennis Ford and Huntsman's Leap. Soon the radar station on top of Saddle Head will come into view, head towards it as this marks the top of the crag (SR 958 929).

Red Tape and Access

A warning sign (Photo by Nanuls)

Saddle Head is located in the Range East portion of the Castlemartin Range. This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367.

There is also a restriction because of nesting birds at The Devil's Barn between 1st March and 31st July. It should be noted that Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually. Please check the notice boards in Stack Rocks or St Govan’s car parks for more information. The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority also produce an excellent annual information leaflet illustrating the restricted areas on a clear map - download it from this LINK.

It is also available from the BMC, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority and Mrs Weston’s Café in Bosherston.

Camping and Accommodation

There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website.

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code

Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 36 South Pembrokeshire/De Sir Benfro

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 158 Tenby & Pembroke / Dinbych-y-pysgod & Penfro

Road Maps

OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

	Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide by Alf Alderson, John Cleare and Ian Mercer. A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
	Climbers Guides to Wales: Pembroke Volume 4 Range East - Saddle Head to St Govan’s by Gary Gibson A beautiful, colourful and superbly presented ‘next-generation’ guidebook to this particular part of Range East.
	Climbers Club Guides to Wales: Pembroke by John Harwood, Dave Viggers et al. An extremely comprehensive two volume guidebook to the area which describes most of the routes on the crag.
	Climbers Club Pembroke Supplement by Dave Viggers A little book containing updates to the Climbers Club Guide and costs around a fiver.
	Rock Fax Guide: Pembroke by Alan James and Mike Robertson Not quite as comprehensive as the Climbers Club guides, but lavishly illustrated with tons of large photo diagrams and topos.