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Craig Llong
Mountain/Rock

Craig Llong

 
Craig Llong

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Pembroke, Wales, Europe

Lat/Lon: 51.95707°N / 5.14375°W

Object Title: Craig Llong

County: Pembrokeshire

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 164 ft / 50 m

 

Page By: Nanuls

Created/Edited: Jun 21, 2009 / Dec 19, 2014

Object ID: 523280

Hits: 1845 

Page Score: 84.82%  - 19 Votes 

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Overview

With its rough and wild position, and battered by the relentless waves of the Irish Sea, there are few crags in Wales that can match Craig Llong (Ship's Rock) for raw atmosphere. Reputed to be the finest crag in northern Pembroke, it's home to a series of gravity defying overhanging buttresses of hard igneous rock, which sport one of the highest concentrations of three star routes anywhere in these parts. The routes are generally in the higher grades, however, easier breaks can be found in-between, providing something for the less experienced climber too. To it's south is a second promontory known as Trwyn Llong (Ship's Nose), or Fisherman's Ridge, which offers further routes, mostly in the mid grades. Be aware though, the easier routes are prone to friable and loose rock, adding an element of danger to what should be relatively straightforward climbs. The gem of the area is almost certainly the Asteroid Wall, a massive 50 metre high celestial beast of pillowed rock, which gives the some of the most sustained, committing and technical climbing anywhere in Britain. This quality, coupled with its largely non-tidal nature and sheltered southerly aspect, make it an ideal winter venue, especially for the discerning expert.

Rock Climbing

The climbing in this area can be split into two areas, Craig Llong itself, and Trwyn Llong, a peninsula to the south. For Craig Llong, only the slabs left of the Asteroid are affected by the tide, while Trwyn Llong is entirety affected by it, the degree of which can depend on the time of year and weather.

Routes are listed from right to left, and are graded and rated with the aid of the old Climbers' Club Guide to Pembroke and old Pembroke Supplement. Since then, the Climbers' Club have published a new comprehensive guide for this area, Pembroke Volume 1: Pembroke North, which adds a significant number of new crags and routes to the area, though the changes to this pages' crags are few. Nevertheless it is recommended that you refer to this book for up-to-date information and route descriptions.

Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available: download it here. With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembroke, so don’t even think about it here.

Route Symbols:

NO STARS A so-so route, neither good nor bad. Not unpleasant unless otherwise stated.
1 STAR A good route which is definitely worth a climb.
2 STARS A very good route, one of the best on the crag and well worthy of attention.
3 STARS An excellent route, one of the best in the area, and probably in Britain too.
NO RESTRICTIONS No Restrictions

Used to indicate that there are currently no restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route.

RESTRICTIONS Restrictions

Used to indicate that there are restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. See the Red Tape and Access Section for more details.


The various walls of Craig Llong. For a clean version of the photo click HERE (Photo by Nanuls)

Craig Llong

Descend from the coastal path along the grassy ramp that runs down the southern side of the crag. The first feature encountered is the smooth looking overhanging wall of Walk on By which is terminated on the left by the broken corner of Chimney Route. The next feature is the huge overhanging wall overlooking the almost horizontal flake of Classic Walks. Set below this is the easy angled slab that gives Corkscrew, then to the left again is the amazing Asteroid Wall, an overhanging behemoth of bubbling dolerite which is bounded on the right by The Cambrian, while to its left is the Seaward Cliff.


No. Name Length Pitches Adjectival
Grade
Technical
Grade
Quality Restrictions
1. Walk on By 18m 1 E2 5c NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
2. Wait on the Corner 18m 1 E4 6a/b 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
3. Strangers 18m 1 E6 6b/c 2 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
4. Impetus Now 18m 1 E6 6b 3 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
5. Chimney Route 24m 1 HS 4a NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
6. Classic Walks 40m 1 S 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
7. Extreme Walks 43m 2 E4 6a 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
8. Go Take a Running Jump 21m 1 E6 6b 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
9. Can You Walk Like You Talk? 21m 1 E4 6a 2 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
10. Corkscrew 55m 2 HS 4a NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
11. The Count 43m 2 E1 5a, 4a NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
12. Grand Duke 37m 1 E2 5b 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
13. Souls of the Departed 43m 1 E4 6a 2 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
14. The Cambrian 46m 1 E5 6a 3 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
15. Moonstruck 46m 1 E6 6b 3 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
16. Moonie 40m 1 E6 6b 3 STARS NO RESTRICTIONS

Seaward Cliff

The following routes are located on the tidal seaward slabs to the left of the Asteroid Wall. Routes are of poor quality.


No. Name Length Pitches Adjectival
Grade
Technical
Grade
Quality Restrictions
17. Trainer Slab 37m 1 S NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
18. Flake Slab 26m 1 VD NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
19. Cold Climb 24m 1 VD NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS

Craig Llong
Craig Llong
(Photo by Nanuls)
Craig Llong
Craig Llong
(Photo by Nanuls)
Trwyn Llong
Trwyn Llong
(Photo by Nanuls)

Trwyn Llong

Descent to the base of Trwyn Llong can be made by scrambling down the crest of the ridge so a stake in the first gap. Abseil from this stake either down the north side to a rock platform or via the south side. At low tide its base can be reached by traversing in eastwards from the foot of the abseil.


No. Name Length Pitches Adjectival
Grade
Technical
Grade
Quality Restrictions
20. Pocket Slab 60m 2 S NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
21. Heather Slab 34m 1 S NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
22. Den's Dyke 34m 1 HS 4a NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
23. Acapulco 30m 2 HVS 5a 1 STAR NO RESTRICTIONS
24. Garibaldi 27m 1 VS 4b NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
45. Roland Rat 27m 1 HS NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
26. Recess Slab 27m 1 S NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
27. Thrift Slab 40m 2 HS 4a NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
28. Not Worth Abseiling For 40m 2 HS NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS
29. Velcro 46m 2 VS NO STARS NO RESTRICTIONS

Weather Conditions and Tides

Weather Forecast

This section displays the weather forecast for Trefin, which is located just to the east of Craig Llong. This gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Trefin and Craig Llong area sit at around sea level.

This weather forecast is generated by the Met Office Weather Widget

Tide Times

Tide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest monitoring station to Craig Llong:

Fishguard Fishguard (SM 955 375)

When to Climb and Essential Gear

The most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; a good compliment of friends or other camming devices will certainly help. A single 50 metre rope should serve well on most easy routes, however, double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, you might want to bring along an abseil rope to speed up access to the base of the crag.


Craig Llong
Craig Llong
(Photo by Nanuls)
Craig Llong
Craig Llong
(Photo by Nanuls)
Craig Llong
Corkscrew (HS 4a)
(Photo by Nanuls)
Craig Llong
Craig Llong
(Photo by Nanuls)

Getting There

When approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, take the A40 Trunk Road towards Haverfordwest (SM 961 159). At Haverfordwest, continue on the A40 north. Just after Scleddau (SM 942 346) turn left and take the A4219, and then left again once you reach the T-junction for with the A487 (SM 933 358). Continue towards St. David's and turn off right at Square and Compass (SM 844 310) for Trefin (SM 839 325). Park at Trefin and take a footpath north to join the coastal path (SM 834 329). Walk east along the coastal path to Trwyn Llong and Craig Llong.

Camping and Accommodation

There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website.


Pwll Llong (Photo by Nanuls)

Red Tape and Access

No red tape or access issues here!

For climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) runs a Regional Access Database, which holds mountain/crag specific information on matters of conservation and access, including issues such as nesting restrictions, nature designations and preferred parking:

Regional Access Database

If you are in any doubt about any particular access arrangement, or need to report an incident, you should contact your local BMC Access Representative or the BMC Access Officers for Wales: Elfyn Jones.

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code
Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 35 North Pembrokeshire/Gogledd Sir Benfro

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 157 St David’s & Haverfordwest/Tyddewi a Hwlffordd

Road Maps

OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide by Alf Alderson, John Cleare and Ian Mercer.

A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
Climbers’ Guides to Wales: Pembroke Volume 1 Pembroke North Climbers' Club Guides to Wales: Pembroke Volume 1: Pembroke North by Steve Quinton

A superb and extremely comprehensive guidebook to the climbing in North Pembroke; includes descriptions of most of the routes at Craig Llong.
Rock Fax Guide: Pembroke Rock Fax Guide: Pembroke by Alan James and Mike Robertson

Not quite as comprehensive as the Climbers’ Club guide, but lavishly illustrated with tons of large photo diagrams and topos.

External Links

 
Craig Llong
Trwyn Llong (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Craig Llong
Craig Llong (Photo by Nanuls)

Government Bodies and Other Organisations

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority

Council for National Parks

Association of National Park Authorities

Natural Resources Wales

CADW

Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales

Dyfed Archaeological Trust

The National Trust

Maritime and Coastguard Agency

Outdoor Organisations and Companies

British Mountaineering Council

Pembrokeshire Climbing Club

Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group

UKClimbing

Weather and Tides

The Met Office

BBC Weather

BBC Tide Tables

UK Hydrographic Office

Tourist Information

Visit Wales

Visit Pembrokeshire

Travel Information

Welsh Public Transport Information

UK Train Timetable

Accommodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales

Independent Hostel Guide

Campsites in Pembrokeshire

Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey

The Climbers’ Club

Cicerone Guidebooks

Rockfax

Mid Wales Climbing

Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop

Wildlife and Conservation

Joint Nature Conservation Committee

Royal Society for the Protection of Birds

Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre

South West Wales Wildlife Trust

Images