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Bullslaughter Bay
Mountain/Rock

Bullslaughter Bay

 
Bullslaughter Bay

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Castlemartin - Range East, Wales, Europe

Lat/Lon: 51.60982°N / 4.97539°W

Object Title: Bullslaughter Bay

County: Pembrokeshire

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 131 ft / 40 m

 

Page By: Nanuls

Created/Edited: Jun 8, 2009 / Jan 9, 2012

Object ID: 519704

Hits: 3598 

Page Score: 85.36%  - 20 Votes 

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Overview


This intriguingly named bay is located towards the centre of Range East and takes the form of one of the few sandy beaches in the Castlemartin Range. Its crags offer a break from the otherwise serious cliffs that surround it, with most of the climbing hovering around the low to mid grades. Although the crags are short, the routes are pleasant, secluded and take place amongst some of the best scenery this stretch of coast has to offer. It should be noted however, that many of the climbs have long, grassy and unprotected run outs, which in places can be quite dangerous. Extra care should therefore be taken whenever topping out, and in some cases, retreat may be a sensible option.
 
Bullslaughter Bay
Bullslaughter Bay (Photo by Nanuls)

Rock Climbing

The climbing at Bullslaugter Bay begins on a prominent and obvious square flying buttress with a straight crack (which gives The Zip - Hard Very Severe 5a) in the centre of its seaward face. All climbs begin at sea level and are all in some way affected by the tide, the degree of which can depend of the time of year and weather. Access can be gained by scrambling down a grassy gully and easy rocks on the west side of the bay, walking down a larger gully on the east side, or by abseil.

Crags and climbs are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers Club Guide to Pembroke Supplement, so for full descriptions, please refer to those books. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Hard Severe (HS) or above.

Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. With the exception of one Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembrokeshire, so don’t even think about it here. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE!

Bullslaughter Bay (Photo by Nanuls)

Route Symbols:
NO STARS A so-so route, neither good nor bad. Not unpleasant unless otherwise stated.
1 STAR A good route which is definitely worth a climb.
2 STARS A very good route, one of the best on the crag and well worthy of attention.
3 STARS An excellent route, one of the best in the area, and probably in Britain too.
NO RESTRICTIONS No Restrictions

Used to indicate that there are currently no restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route.
RESTRICTIONS Restrictions

Used to indicate that there are restrictions, either seasonal, temporary or permanent, affecting a route. See the Red Tape and Access Section for more details.

The following routes run from the flying buttress to a large cave in the centre of the bay:

No. Name Length Pitches Adjectival
Grade
Technical
Grade
Quality Restrictions
1. Rydw I'n Byw yn Stockport 18m 1 HVS 4c NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
2. Surf Victim 37m 1 E3 5b NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
3. Culmination 23m 1 E2 5b NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
4. The Zip 18m 1 HVS 5a NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
5. Thriller 20m 1 HVS 5a NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
6. Zawn off Shotgun 20m 1 HVS 5a NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
7. E Six, Six B 23m 1 VS 4c 2 STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
8. Cheeseboard 24m 1 HVS 4c NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
9. Zap 21m 1 VS 4b NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
10. Whacko Jacko 24m 1 HVS 4c 1 STAR RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
11. Beat it 21m 1 VS 4c NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
12. Griller 24m 1 HVS 4c NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
13. Beat Up 21m 1 HS 4b NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE


The following routes start on the right hand side of the large cave on a slab with a shallow corner up its centre. Topping out is dangerous!

No. Name Length Pitches Adjectival
Grade
Technical
Grade
Quality Restrictions
14. Secondary Route 24m 1 S 4a NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
15. Ordinary Route 24m 1 VD NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE


 
Bullslaughter Bay
The flying buttress in the western side of the bay (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Bullslaughter Bay
Abseiling over the edge of the cave (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Bullslaughter Bay
The 'mouse-trap' style slab (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Bullslaughter Bay
The pinnacle in the centre of the bay (Photo by Nanuls)

On the east side of the little bay containing the slab is a 'Mousetrap-type' wall with a steep slab on its left. The following routes start on a rib just below the slab:

No. Name Length Pitches Adjectival
Grade
Technical
Grade
Quality Restrictions
16. Patent Pending 30m 1 S 4a NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
17. Copyright 30m 1 VS 4c 1 STAR RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
18. Squeeze It 27m 1 VS 4c NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
19. Little Mousetrap 37m 1 HVS 5b NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
20. Brave Face 30m 1 E3 5b NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE


In the centre on the bay is a lone pinnacle, this route ascends its south face:

No. Name Length Pitches Adjectival
Grade
Technical
Grade
Quality Restrictions
21. The Canine Tooth 15m 1 D NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE


Mewsford Point (Photo by Nanuls)


The following routes are on the east face of a long, grass-topped promontory on the east side of the bay. Approach via a through cave on the promontory at mid to low tide. A long tunnel runs under the promontory out towards the sea; the routes begin on the seaward mouth of the tunnel.

No. Name Length Pitches Adjectival
Grade
Technical
Grade
Quality Restrictions
22. The Extortionist 46m 1 HVS 5a NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
23. Pavement 40m 1 E1 5a NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
24. Jaywalk 30m 1 E2 5b NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE
25. Colonol Portman and His Amazing Briefs 15m 1 VS 4c NO STARS RESTRICTIONS – ARMY FIRING RANGE

Weather Conditions and Tides

Weather Forecast


This section displays the weather forecast for Bosherston, which is located just to the east of Bullslaughter Bay. This gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Bosherston and Bullslaughter Bay sit at around sea level.



Tide Times


Tide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest port to Bullslaughter Bay:

Stackpole Quay Stackpole Quay (SR 992 957)

When to Climb and Essential Gear

The most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; a good compliment of friends or other camming devices will certainly help. A singe 50 metre rope should serve well on most easy routes, however, twin or double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, an abseil rope is essential if you plan to climb the crags less accessible areas.
 
Bullslaughter Bay
The flying buttress (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Mewsford Point
Mewsford Point (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Bullslaughter Bay
Bullslaughter Bay (Photo by Nanuls)

Getting There

When approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, take the A477 Trunk Road towards Pembroke Dock (SM 969 036). Before reaching Pembroke Dock, turn left onto the A4075 (SN 019 027) to Pembroke (SM 989 012). In Pembroke, drive straight over the first small roundabout you reach and drive along the A4139 a few hundred metres and turn left and take the B4319 south towards Castlemartin ( SR 915 983). Around 500m after the Merrion Camp (SR 939 968), take a left hand turn at a crossroads (SR 931 970) and drive down an unclassified road to the Stack Rocks Car Park (SR 925 946).

Park at the Stack Rocks Car Park and walk west along the coastal path, past Elegug Stacks, The Cauldron, and Flimstone Bay to your final destination, Bullslaughter Bay (SR 940 942).

Red Tape and Access

 
Castlemartin Range Warning Sign
A warning sign (Photo by Nanuls)

Bullslaughter Bay is located in the Range East portion of the Castlemartin Range. This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367.

It should be noted that Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually. Please check the notice boards in Stack Rocks or St Govan’s car parks for more information. The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority also produce an excellent annual information leaflet illustrating the restricted areas on a clear map - download it from this LINK.

It is also available from the BMC, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority and Mrs Weston’s Café in Bosherston.

Camping and Accommodation

There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website.

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code
Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 36 South Pembrokeshire/De Sir Benfro

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 158 Tenby & Pembroke / Dinbych-y-pysgod & Penfro

Road Maps

OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide by Alf Alderson, John Cleare and Ian Mercer.

A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
Climbers Guides to Wales: Pembroke Volume 3 Range East - Stack Rocks to Hollow Caves Bay Climbers Guides to Wales: Pembroke Volume 3 Range East - Stack Rocks to Hollow Caves Bay by Gary Gibson

A beautiful, colourful and superbly presented ‘next-generation’ guidebook to this particular part of Range East.
Climbers Guides to Wales: Pembroke Climbers Club Guides to Wales: Pembroke by John Harwood, Dave Viggers et al.

An extremely comprehensive two volume guidebook to the area which describes most of the routes on the crag.
Climbers Club Pembroke Supplement Climbers Club Pembroke Supplement by Dave Viggers

A little book containing updates to the Climbers Club Guide and costs around a fiver.
Rock Fax Guide: Pembroke Rock Fax Guide: Pembroke by Alan James and Mike Robertson

Not quite as comprehensive as the Climbers Club guides, but lavishly illustrated with tons of large photo diagrams and topos.

External Links

 
Bullslaughter Bay
On the Ordinary Route - V. Diff
 
Bullslaughter Bay
The "mouse-trap" type type slab (Photo by Nanuls)

Government Bodies and Other Organisations

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority
Council for National Parks
Association of National Park Authorities
Pembrokeshire County Council
Carmarthenshire County Council
Ceredigion County Council
Countryside Council for Wales
Forestry Commission Wales
Environment Agency
CADW
Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales
Dyfed Archaeological Trust
The National Trust
Maritime and Coastguard Agency

Outdoor Organisations and Companies

British Mountaineering Council
Pembrokeshire Climbing Club
Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group
South Wales Mountaineering Club
The Climbers Club
UKClimbing

Weather

Weather from the Met Office
BBC Weather
Weather Channel UK

Tide Tables

BBC Tide Tables
UK Hydrographic Office

Tourist Information

Visit Wales
Visit Pembrokeshire
South West Wales Tourism Partnership
Local Information from Pembrokeshire Pages
Local Information from Pembrokeshire Online

Travel Information

Welsh Public Transport Information
Uk Train Timetable

Accommodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey
Cicerone Guidebooks
Climbers Club Guidebooks
Rockfax Guidebooks
Mid Wales Climbing
Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop

Wildlife and Conservation

Joint Nature Conservation Committee
Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre
South West Wales Wildlife Trust
Sea Trust
Pembrokeshire Bird Group

Welsh Language

Welsh Language Board
Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group
Cymuned Welsh language pressure group
Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association)
Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon

Images