Plumstone Mountain : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Table of Contents

Overview

Bouldering Problems

Weather Conditions

When to Climb and Essential Gear

Getting There

Red Tape and Access

Camping and Accommodation

Maps

Guidebooks

External Links

Images

Plumstone Mountain is less of a mountain, and more of a broad rounded heather clad hill, capped by a rocky tor of grit-like rock. It’s this summit tor that forms the mountains principle point of interest, and in fact, provides some bouldering problems of surprising quality. The tor takes the form of a relatively square cut mass of rock, which is generally excellent in quality, and yields a mixture of roof problems, arêtes, gritstone laybacks and steep faces. Much of the climbing is overhanging by 10˚ or 20˚, and as a result is fairly powerful. To further add to the spot’s character, all of this activity takes place against the backdrop of a 360˚ sweeping panorama of much of Pembrokeshire's finest landscapes.

Bouldering Problems

Plumstone Mountain is home to only a handful of recognised problems, however, exploration is at an early stage and there is plenty of scope for variation. Despite the diminutive size of the outcrop, there is enough here to keep most boulderers happy for at least a few hours. To get the most out of the area, a visit to the hill could be combined with visits to Poll Carn and Maiden Castle, which have a greater concentration of problems, and are located at Treffgarne just 4km to the east.

Grades are given using the British Technical Grading System which is usually used for rating the crux of trad climbs. The system is great for easy problems (less than 5a), however, above that they start to become too vague and in the higher grades they are hopeless with 6c covering everything from V6 to V10. A grading comparison table is available of Rockfax’s website. Problems are described clockwise, starting on the rock’s eastern face.

Problems on the east face. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

Problems on the south face. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

Problem 1	3c
On the left side of the face are a couple of cracks; the right hand crack is an obvious layback.
Problem 2	3c
The left crack is a slightly awkward off-width.
Problem 3	5b
Climb directly up the flake.
Problem 4	5a
A thuggish problem underclinging the diagonal crack to its conclusion.
Problem 5	5c
Further down, the wall gives a fingery problem with a sloping finish.
Problem 6	5b
The southwest arête is a one of the classic problems on Plumstone Moutnain.
Problem 7	6a
Perhaps the best section with lots of variations, the prominent overhanging rib on the west side is taken from a sitting start, with a variety of dynamic slaps; most of the problems have similar grades.
Problem 8	6a
The obvious roof problem on the boulder marking the northwest corner is surprisingly desperate.
Problem 9	5c
Another overhang, another sitting start. What looks suspiciously easy becomes a desperate open-handed slap and sprawl onto the holdless slab.
Problem 10	5b
The obvious crack, climbed as an eliminate jamming exercise, again from a sitting start, is painful.
Problem 11	5a
In the wall further along, a jump for the prominent jug gives a good dynamic problem.
Problem 11 Sit Down Start	5c
Gaining the jug from a sitting start gives a whole new difficulty.
Problem 12	5a
The small face just around the corner taking a direct line just right of the arête.

Problems on the west face. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

Problems on the north face. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

The view back to the car park. Not very far at all.

Weather Conditions

This section displays the weather forecast for Hayscastle Cross, which is located just to the north and is probably the nearest village to Plumstone Mountain. Both locations are at around the same height, however, Plumstone Mountain is more exposed to the area’s climate, and exposure and wind speed can also significantly lower temperatures.

Weather Forecast | Weather Maps | Weather Radar | Hurricane Center

When to Climb and Essential Gear

Bouldering on Plumstone Mountain's north face

Bouldering the easy layback problem on the East Face

Pembrokeshire's climate is generally pretty good whatever the season, so climbing is possible throughout the year. One advantage of its inland location is that if the weather is a bit rough it may be a good alternative to climbing on the area's sea cliffs, where you will inevitably receive a soaking... or worse.

Although not essential, a bouldering mat is recommended to soften those landings, and of course, you'll also need a chalk bag and a pair of rock shoes.

Getting There

Take the B4330 from Haverfordwest (SM 954 160) by turning west towards St. David’s at the Morrison’s supermarket roundabout, cross the river and turn north at the next roundabout (SM 952 159) which is signposted Croes-goch (SM 828 302). After about 5 miles you will reach the brow of the hill and a left hand turning (SM 923 235) onto a tarmac road (bridleway) leading to a parking area surrounded by large blocks next to a covered reservoir (SM 918 233). Plumstone Mountain’s rocks are located only 100m to the west up a broad path.

Red Tape and Access

No red tape here!

Although unlikely it's worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

Camping and Accommodation

There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website.

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code

Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 35 North Pembrokeshire/Gogledd Sir Benfro
OS 1:50k Landranger Series 157 St David’s & Haverfordwest/Tyddewi a Hwlffordd

Road Maps

OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

	Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide by Alf Alderson, John Cleare and Ian Mercer. A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
	Climbers Club Interim Pembroke Bouldering Guide - free download (May 2008) by Nigel and Helen Barry from an original by Martin Jones (1997) A work in progress, but the only guide to Pembrokeshire’s bouldering; and it’s free!