Overview
| Overview |
Rock ClimbingThe climbing at Crystal Slabs can be split between five areas: Levitation Wall, The Crystal Block, Crystal Slabs, Mosaic Wall and Thunder Wall. With the exception of Levitation Wall and the Crystal Slabs themselves, all areas are in some way affected by the tide, the degree of which can depend of the time of year and weather. All of the crags can be reached by scrambling down rocks to a grassy ramp on the eastern side of the large rock arch. Descend the ramp eastwards to the base of the slabs, which also gives access to the area’s other crags.  Crags and climbs are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers Club Guide to Pembroke and the Pembroke Supplement, so for full descriptions, please refer to those books. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Hard Severe (HS) or above. Routes are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembrokeshire, so don’t even think about it here. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE! Route Symbols:
Levitation WallThis is the steep wall around 50 metres west of the main slab, and is the first crag reached on the approach. At its right end is a big corner leading to an overhanging cracked wall, Overhead Cam and Crankshaft start up this corner.
The Crystal BlockThe Crystal Block is located just below Levitation Wall and takes the form of a square cut promontory with a narrow zawn on its east. Routes Crystal Block Arête to Isn't Gold are on the seaward face, while Crystal Facet and Crystal Facet Arête are on the slabby face on the east side of the zawn.
Crystal SlabsThe Crystal Slabs is the obvious white central slab, characterised by right leaning cracks. The main slab is flanked on each side by subsidiary slabs. It's heaven for those who like VS 4c's.
Mosaic WallTo the right of the Crystal Slabs is a vertical face seamed with cracks which gives superb climbing on deceptionally good rock.
 Thunder WallThis is the great impending bastion to the right of the Mosaic Wall. Like the Mosaic Wall, it looks loose, but is in fact very stable. It can be approached by traversing round from the Crystal Slabs but requires a low tide.
Weather Conditions and TidesWeather ForecastThis section displays the weather forecast for Bosherston, which is located just to the east of Crystal Slabs. This gives a pretty good indication of what the weather will be like on the crag, as both Bosherston and the Crystal Slabs area sit at around sea level. Tide TimesTide times can have a significant impact on where and when one climbs. It is therefore extremely important to check the timetables before embarking on trip to the area. UK tides information for all standard and secondary ports is provided by the UK Hydrographic Office (UKHO), and displayed on the BBC's website. The link below provides a link to the nearest port to Crystal Slabs:
When to Climb and Essential Gear The most reliable conditions are in the summer, but the low altitude of the crag may make it a viable option in winter. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. Easier routes will only require a moderate rack, while harder routes will require a something more comprehensive; a good compliment of friends or other camming devices will certainly help. A singe 50 metre rope should serve well on most easy routes, however, twin or double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. In addition to your usual gear, you might want to bring along an abseil rope to speed up access to the base of the crag. Getting ThereWhen approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, take the A477 Trunk Road towards Pembroke Dock (SM 969 036). Before reaching Pembroke Dock, turn left onto the A4075 (SN 019 027) to Pembroke (SM 989 012). In Pembroke, drive straight over the first small roundabout you reach and drive along the A4139 a few hundred metres and turn left and take the B4319 south towards Castlemartin ( SR 915 983). Around 500m after the Merrion Camp (SR 939 968), take a left hand turn at a crossroads (SR 931 970) and drive down an unclassified road to the Stack Rocks Car Park (SR 925 946).Park at the Stack Rocks Car Park and walk west along the coastal path, past Elegug Stacks, The Cauldron, and Flimstone Bay. Crystal Slabs (SR 935 943) are located on the headland, which on the Ordnance Survey map is called Moody Nose, just beyond Flimstone Bay, and the descent can be made by scrambling down its western end. The headland is easily identifiable by a large rock arch which sits on a landward slanting slab; the descent is to the east of this arch. If you find yourself reaching Bullslaughter Bay (SR 940 942), you have gone too far. Red Tape and AccessCrystal Slabs are located in the Range East portion of the Castlemartin Range. This area is an Army firing range, although they do not use exploding ammunition. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on alternate Mon/Wed and Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. It should be noted that Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually. Please check the notice boards in Stack Rocks or St Govan’s car parks for more information. The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority also produce an excellent annual information leaflet illustrating the restricted areas on a clear map - download it from this LINK. It is also available from the BMC, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority and Mrs Weston’s Café in Bosherston. Camping and AccommodationThere’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:Youth Hostel Association in Wales Independent Hostel Guide Campsites in Pembrokeshire For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website. Maps
Guidebooks
External LinksGovernment Bodies and Other Organisations Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority Council for National Parks Association of National Park Authorities Pembrokeshire County Council Carmarthenshire County Council Ceredigion County Council Countryside Council for Wales Forestry Commission Wales Environment Agency CADW Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales Dyfed Archaeological Trust The National Trust Maritime and Coastguard Agency Outdoor Organisations and Companies British Mountaineering Council Pembrokeshire Climbing Club Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group South Wales Mountaineering Club The Climbers Club UKClimbing Weather Weather from the Met Office BBC Weather Weather Channel UK Tide Tables BBC Tide Tables UK Hydrographic Office Tourist Information Visit Wales Visit Pembrokeshire South West Wales Tourism Partnership Local Information from Pembrokeshire Pages Local Information from Pembrokeshire Online Travel Information Welsh Public Transport Information Uk Train Timetable Accommodation Youth Hostel Association in Wales Independent Hostel Guide Campsites in Pembrokeshire Maps and Guidebooks Ordnance Survey Cicerone Guidebooks Climbers Club Guidebooks Rockfax Guidebooks Mid Wales Climbing Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop Wildlife and Conservation Joint Nature Conservation Committee Royal Society for the Protection of Birds Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre South West Wales Wildlife Trust Sea Trust Pembrokeshire Bird Group Welsh Language Welsh Language Board Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group Cymuned Welsh language pressure group Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association) Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon Images
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