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Mynydd Dinas
Mountain/Rock

Mynydd Dinas

 
Mynydd Dinas

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Wales, Europe

Lat/Lon: 51.99511°N / 4.90085°W

Object Title: Mynydd Dinas

County: Pembrokeshire

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Bouldering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 1001 ft / 305 m

 

Page By: Nanuls

Created/Edited: Apr 1, 2009 / Apr 15, 2011

Object ID: 503081

Hits: 3595 

Page Score: 87.31%  - 24 Votes 

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Overview


Mynydd Dinas (Fort or City Mountain) is something of a geological oddity, even in an area where the underlying strata is as diverse as it is in Pembrokeshire. While most of the area’s climbing takes place on igneous intrusions, carboniferous limestone and old red sandstone, the rocky outcrops of Mynydd Dinas have a distinctly gritty texture and are more akin to those of England’s Peak District than anything in Wales. The grain of the rock is said to be comparable to that of Ashover grit (Black Rocks and the southeast Peak), which is probably smoother than some of the Peak’s more popular areas such as Stanage and Ramshaw, and probably with less friction, but the approximation is close enough. Such is the class of the rock, that the problems it yields are second to none in the area, and exceed even those of Treffgarne in quality.

The tors straddle the hill’s crest and on a clear day are silhouetted against the skyline of northern Pembrokeshire. The rocks range in size from a couple of isolated boulders to whole crags, which house arêtes, corners, slabs and pinnacles. The activity is split between four outcrops: Carn Enoch, which is the first tor reached when approaching from the parking area; Garn Fawr, which is the largest and most prominent piece of rock on the hill; Carnsefyll which is located just to the north; and the Elephant’s Arse Boulders, a couple of isolated rocks located just to the south.

Owing to the openness of the area, bouldering is probably best avoided when the weather is really foul, however, if it’s just windy then the multi-faceted nature of the outcrops means that you should be able to find at least one sheltered little corner to climb on. On a clear day, there are fewer places better, with panoramic views stretching across much of Pembrokeshire, Ceredigion and Cardigan Bay.
 
Carn Enoch
Bouldering on Carn Enoch
 
Garn Fawr
Garn Fawr’s Upper Tier
 
Garn Fawr
Looking north over Cardigan Bay

Problems and Routes

Attempts have been made to grade the bouldering problems using the Hueco V System, however, many grades are still given using the British Technical Grading System which is usually used for rating the crux of trad climbs. The system is great for easy problems (less than 5a), however, above that they start to become too vague and in the higher grades they are hopeless, with 6c covering everything from V6 to V10. A grading comparison table is available of Rockfax’s website. To maintain a level of consistency, wherever possible, both V and Technical Grades have been listed.

Trad climbs are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembrokeshire, so don’t even think about it here. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE!

Carn Enoch


Carn Enoch (Enoch’s Rock) is the large jumble of boulders that can be seen from the parking area, and has several green paths that lead directly to it. Most problems, and also those of the highest quality, are found on its east face, but there are many more dotted around the pile. Facing east, two cracks divide the slabs; the left hand one is undercut, splits the face from top to bottom, and is gives a real classic problem: Freddie’s Nightmare, one of those gems that'll take the skin off your shins. The prow immediately left, and the slabs to the right, are depressingly desperate. Problems are generally described from left to right, but there are some oddities, so it’s best to check the crag diagrams for confirmation. For legibilities sake the problem descriptions have been split between Carn Enoch's East Face and the rest, which are listed under the heading Odds and Sods.

East Face

Problem 1 V1 (5b) NO STARS
The nose of the wall on the left can be gained by stepping in from the left, or via the arête on the right at the same grade.
Problem 2 VB (4b) NO STARS
The ramp to the right is easy but awkward.
Problem 3 PROJECT NO STARS
The prow, taken direct.
Problem 4 AKA Freddie’s Nighmare V2 (5c) 3 STARS
Without a doubt the best problem on the outcrop. The central crack requires unavoidable jamming.
Problem 5 AKA Pete’s Slab V2 (5c) NO STARS
To the right is a shin-scraper to start, and some horrible slab-type footwork leading to a side-pull and the top.
Problem 6 VB (2a) NO STARS
The crack to the right is a good introduction to off-widths - totally desperate.
Problem 7 V0 (5a) 1 STAR
The hanging crack to the right gives a short but enjoyable layback.
Problem 8 V0 (5a) NO STARS
A hand traverse of the sharp edge leftwards to the platform above the layback of Problem 7.
Problems on the East Face. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.


Odds and Sods

Odds and Sods Problems 1 to 4. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.
Odds and Sods Problems 5 and 6. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.


Carn Enoch
Problem 1 V1 (5c) NO STARS
Begin by standing on the arête, and from the obvious side-pull go for the top just to the right.
Problem 2 V2 (6a) 1 STAR
Starting from the same place, go left and up the prow on a series of big sidepulls.
Problem 3 V0 (5a) NO STARS
Standing jump for the top of the boulder and mantel. Fun!
Problem 4 V2 (5c) NO STARS
A low-level traverse from the slab rightwards under the prow to finish up Problem 3.
Problem 5 V0+ (5b) 1 STAR
A low sidewall beginning with a sitting start from the break, then through the side-pull for the top.
Problem 6 V4 (6a/b) 1 STAR
Starting in the same place, dyno for the top directly.
Problem 7 V2 (5c+) 1 STAR
Straight for the closed-in flying arête, with no assistance from the boulders on either side. A sitting start has still not been completed.
Problem 8 VB (4b) NO STARS
Traverse the small crack to the left.


Odds and Sods Problems 7 and 8. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.
Looking north from Carn Enoch over Newport Bay


Garn Fawr


Garn Gawr (Big Rock) is the largest of Mynydd Dinas’ outcrops, and subsequently has the highest concentration of problems, plus the only trad routes on the hill. Much of the bouldering is around the main cliff, but there are a few gems to be found lower down. All the trad routes are on the main crag, none of which exceed 10 metres in length, and some of which are of a surprisingly high quality. There is a wall and solid fence that runs across its south side, don’t damage it!

Bouldering

Problems are generally described from left to right, but there are some oddities, so it’s best to check the crag diagrams for confirmation.

Garn Fawr


Problem 1 AKA Andie's Slab V0- (4c) NO STARS
Climb straight up the boulders smooth face.
Problem 2 V1 (5b) NO STARS
The roof around the corner.
Problem 3 V2 (5b) NO STARS
Traverse of the lip of the boulder.
Problem 4 V0 (5a) NO STARS
Climb the small wall.
Problem 5 6b NO STARS
Take Remembrance (see below) direct.
Problem 6 5b NO STARS
The cave on left.
Problem 7 6c NO STARS
The cave which is slightly rightwards.
Problem 8 6c NO STARS
Climb the bulge left of offwidth.
Problem 9 4b NO STARS
The aforementioned offwidth crack.
Problem 10 5c NO STARS
Climb the overhanging slab.
Problem 11 VB (4c) NO STARS
Climb the centre of the wall on large holds dyno to the left arête.
Problem 12 V0- NO STARS
As for Problem 11 but sidepull to the left arête.
Problem 13 V0 NO STARS
The green crack right of the arête.
Problem 14 AKA Gargoyle Arête V5 NO STARS
The south facing wall around to the right of Speed Trap (see below).
Problem 15 6a 1 STAR
Start at the slab with an overhanging left side. Starting under the overlap on the right, with the feet in the back, hand traverse left to two sloping holds. Swing, and dyno footless for the break. Rock over.
Problem 16 V0- (4c) NO STARS
Slab to crack.
Problem 17 V0- (4c) NO STARS
The layback crack.
Problem 18 6b NO STARS
The Cave on the left.
Andie’s Slab Boulder

Garn Fawr Upper Tier


Garn Fawr Lower Tier


Trad Climbing

On Garn Fawr’s northern face are a number routes of medium to hard difficulty. Although onlyeight routes have been recorded at the site, there is great potential for more, and a number of projects have already been identified. Routes are described from left to right, or for those with a purely geographical mind, from east to west.

Garn Fawr – Upper Tier
Trad routes on Garn Fawr. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.
1. Memoriam 8m S 4b 1 STAR
The route follows the crack on the left of the left wall of the buttress into the large niche, and then through the overhanging layback crack above.
2. Tombstone 9m VS 4b NO STARS
Starting halfway along the wall, traverse the obvious handrail rightwards to meet Rememberance halfway up the arête. Continue to the top. A nasty landing, without any real gear.
3. Remembrance 9m S 4b 2 STARS
A fine and worthwhile route. Climb the easy-angled front face of the buttress, starting from the left side of the arête.
4. Dougie the Wondercat 9m E1 5b 1 STAR
Start on the buttress to the right. Follow the line of holds left of the left arête, from a hard but eliminate right hand start to a long, insecure reach for a flake.
5. N/A 9m PROJECT NO STARS
Cracks not yet cleaned.
6. Kamikaze Lichen 9m VS 4b 1 STAR
Down and to the right, the crag sports a large face, with three cracks running up it, and a large raven’s nest in the centre. The left arête of the face is reasonably easy, though lichenous. Another bad route to fall off.
7. N/A 9m PROJECT NO STARS
The right-hand arête.
8. Bunker Mentality 9m E1 5c 2 STARS
Another quality route. Start on the slab left of centre with some thin moves, and continue direct. The crux is at the bottom, but as usual there is a nasty drop off the landing.
9. Stopgap 8m VS 4b NO STARS
A poor route up the short wall and arête left of Speed Trap.
10. Speed Trap 8m E3 5a NO STARS
This takes the right side of the sidewall, past a hollow perched flake.

Trad routes on Garn Fawr. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

Garn Fawr's Upper Tier from the south. The face is more broken and offers fewer oppertunities for routes

Carnsefyll


Carnsefyll (Standing Stone) is a compact protuberance of rock on the north eastern side of the hill which can be seen clearly from both Carn Enoch and Garn Fawr. It can be approached from either of these points, or by parking slightly lower down the road near Cryg Las and traversing in from the east. The problems are similar to those on its bigger neighbours, but there are fewer of them.

Problem 1 VB (2a) NO STARS
The slabby face overlooking the sea is a breeze.
Problem 2 V0- NO STARS
Around to the east a crack just left of the obvious roof can be taken direct.
Problem 3 V2 (6a) NO STARS
Climb the triangular roof over a spike.

Carnsefyll from the north

Elephant’s Arse Boulders


These intriguingly named boulders are located a just to the south of Carn Enoch, and should come into view after a short walk from any direction, although if visibility is poor, they may be difficult to locate precisely. The boulders are easy to recognise: one has the appearance of a large tooth, while to its west is a spherical boulder resting on a flat slab; both are only about 3 metres in height. The North East Arête of the tooth has a good problem at V0+ (5c); while the spherical boulder has some excellent hanging start problems on slopers, and the top is the eponymous Elephant’s Arse problem, which at V2 (6a) is particularly good if the one poor hold is ignored.
 
Elephant s Arse Boulders
Elephant’s Arse Boulders from the west
 
Elephant s Arse Boulders
Elephant’s Arse Boulders and Mynydd Preseli beyond
 
Elephant s Arse Boulders
Elephant’s Arse Boulders from the east

Weather Conditions

This section displays the weather forecast for Fishguard, which is located just to the west and is one of the nearest towns to Mynydd Dinas. Remember that Fishguard is around sea level whereas Mynydd Dinas reaches 305m. This means that when looking at temperature the adiabatic lapse rate must be taken into account, which in Wales is a drop in temperature of between 0.5 and 1°C per 100m in altitude. Exposure and wind speed can also significantly lower temperatures.

When to Climb and Essential Gear

 
Garn Fawr
Garn Fawr – complete with moss and lichen
 
Garn Fawr
Garn Fawr’s Upper Tier

Pembrokeshire's climate is generally pretty good whatever the season, so climbing is possible throughout the year. One advantage of Mynydd Dinas’ inland location is that if the weather’s a bit rough it may be a good alternative to climbing on the area's sea cliffs, where you will inevitably receive a good soaking... or possibly something worse.

Although not essential, a bouldering mat is recommended to soften those landings, and of course, you'll also need a chalk bag and a pair of rock shoes.

For trad routes a pair of 50 metre half ropes and a set of wires, cams and quickdraws, plus a few slings and screwgates should be enough to protect most routes.

Getting There

From Fishguard (SM 957 370) take the A487 east into Dinas Cross (SN 005 384). Fifty metres after the filling station, take the tiny lane on the right, signed Cwm Gwaun & Viewpoint, (SN 011 388) it’s easy to miss so keep an eye out. Follow this twisting lane all the way up onto the moor. After a while you will pass a white painted stone on the left, bearing the title Crug Las (SN 015 373); 200 metres further on, on the right hand side of the road is a large clearing for parking (SN 016 370). From the parking spot, Carn Enoch (SN 012 370) can be seen directly up on the hill (7 minutes walk), and Carnsefyll (SN 011 373) down to the right. Garn Fawr (SN 007 368) can be seen from Carn Enoch, and is about five minutes further on in the same direction. Carnsefyll is directly down the hill from Carn Enoch, at about the same distance. The Elephant’s Arse Boulders (SN 012 367) is a little harder to find; if you are approaching from the car park head to the left of the brow of the hill and they should come into view within a few minutes.

Red Tape

No red tape here!

Although unlikely it's worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

Camping and Accommodation

There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website.

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code
Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 35 North Pembrokeshire/Gogledd Sir Benfro
OS 1:50k Landranger Series 157 St David’s & Haverfordwest/Tyddewi a Hwlffordd

Road Maps

OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide by Alf Alderson, John Cleare and Ian Mercer.

A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
Climbers Club Interim Pembroke Bouldering Guide Climbers Club Interim Pembroke Bouldering Guide - free download (May 2008) by Nigel and Helen Barry from an original by Martin Jones (1997)

A work in progress, but the only guide to Pembrokeshire’s bouldering; and it’s free!

External Links

 
Carn Enoch
Carn Enoch from Carnsefyll
 
Carnsefyll
Carnsefyll from Carn Enoch
 
Carnsefyll
Carnsefyll's slabby seaward face
Government Bodies and Other Organisations

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority
Council for National Parks
Association of National Park Authorities
Pembrokeshire County Council
Carmarthenshire County Council
Ceredigion County Council
Countryside Council for Wales
Forestry Commission Wales
Environment Agency
CADW
Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales
Dyfed Archaeological Trust
The National Trust
Maritime and Coastguard Agency

Outdoor Organisations and Companies

British Mountaineering Council
Pembrokeshire Climbing Club
Pembrokeshire Outdoor Charter Group
South Wales Mountaineering Club
The Climbers Club
UKClimbing

Weather

Weather from the Met Office
BBC Weather
Weather Channel UK

Tide Tables

BBC Tide Tables
UK Hydrographic Office

Tourist Information

Visit Wales
Visit Pembrokeshire
South West Wales Tourism Partnership
Local Information from Pembrokeshire Pages
Local Information from Pembrokeshire Online

Travel Information

Welsh Public Transport Information
Uk Train Timetable

Accommodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey
Cicerone Guidebooks
Climbers Club Guidebooks
Rockfax Guidebooks
Mid Wales Climbing
Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop

Wildlife and Conservation

Joint Nature Conservation Committee
Royal Society for the Protection of Birds
Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife Centre
South West Wales Wildlife Trust
Sea Trust
Pembrokeshire Bird Group

Welsh Language

Welsh Language Board
Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group
Cymuned Welsh language pressure group
Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association)
Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon

Images