Mynydd Dinas : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Table of Contents

Overview

Problems and Routes

Carn Enoch

Garn Fawr

Carnsefyll

Elephant’s Arse Boulders

Weather Conditions

When to Climb and Essential Gear

Getting There

Red Tape

Camping and Accommodation

Maps

Guidebooks

External Links

Images

Mynydd Dinas (Fort or City Mountain) is something of a geological oddity, even in an area where the underlying strata is as diverse as it is in Pembrokeshire. While most of the area’s climbing takes place on igneous intrusions, carboniferous limestone and old red sandstone, the rocky outcrops of Mynydd Dinas have a distinctly gritty texture and are more akin to those of England’s Peak District than anything in Wales. The grain of the rock is said to be comparable to that of Ashover grit (Black Rocks and the southeast Peak), which is probably smoother than some of the Peak’s more popular areas such as Stanage and Ramshaw, and probably with less friction, but the approximation is close enough. Such is the class of the rock, that the problems it yields are second to none in the area, and exceed even those of Treffgarne in quality.

The tors straddle the hill’s crest and on a clear day are silhouetted against the skyline of northern Pembrokeshire. The rocks range in size from a couple of isolated boulders to whole crags, which house arêtes, corners, slabs and pinnacles. The activity is split between four outcrops: Carn Enoch, which is the first tor reached when approaching from the parking area; Garn Fawr, which is the largest and most prominent piece of rock on the hill; Carnsefyll which is located just to the north; and the Elephant’s Arse Boulders, a couple of isolated rocks located just to the south.

Owing to the openness of the area, bouldering is probably best avoided when the weather is really foul, however, if it’s just windy then the multi-faceted nature of the outcrops means that you should be able to find at least one sheltered little corner to climb on. On a clear day, there are fewer places better, with panoramic views stretching across much of Pembrokeshire, Ceredigion and Cardigan Bay.

Bouldering on Carn Enoch

Garn Fawr’s Upper Tier

Looking north over Cardigan Bay

Problems and Routes

Attempts have been made to grade the bouldering problems using the Hueco V System, however, many grades are still given using the British Technical Grading System which is usually used for rating the crux of trad climbs. The system is great for easy problems (less than 5a), however, above that they start to become too vague and in the higher grades they are hopeless, with 6c covering everything from V6 to V10. A grading comparison table is available of Rockfax’s website. To maintain a level of consistency, wherever possible, both V and Technical Grades have been listed.

Trad climbs are rated using the British Adjectival Grading System. With the exception of Tenby South Beach Quarry, bolting is strictly prohibited everywhere in Pembrokeshire, so don’t even think about it here. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE!

Carn Enoch

Carn Enoch (Enoch’s Rock) is the large jumble of boulders that can be seen from the parking area, and has several green paths that lead directly to it. Most problems, and also those of the highest quality, are found on its east face, but there are many more dotted around the pile. Facing east, two cracks divide the slabs; the left hand one is undercut, splits the face from top to bottom, and is gives a real classic problem: Freddie’s Nightmare, one of those gems that'll take the skin off your shins. The prow immediately left, and the slabs to the right, are depressingly desperate. Problems are generally described from left to right, but there are some oddities, so it’s best to check the crag diagrams for confirmation. For legibilities sake the problem descriptions have been split between Carn Enoch's East Face and the rest, which are listed under the heading Odds and Sods.

East Face

Problem 1	V1 (5b)
The nose of the wall on the left can be gained by stepping in from the left, or via the arête on the right at the same grade.
Problem 2	VB (4b)
The ramp to the right is easy but awkward.
Problem 3	PROJECT
The prow, taken direct.
Problem 4 AKA Freddie’s Nighmare	V2 (5c)
Without a doubt the best problem on the outcrop. The central crack requires unavoidable jamming.
Problem 5 AKA Pete’s Slab	V2 (5c)
To the right is a shin-scraper to start, and some horrible slab-type footwork leading to a side-pull and the top.
Problem 6	VB (2a)
The crack to the right is a good introduction to off-widths - totally desperate.
Problem 7	V0 (5a)
The hanging crack to the right gives a short but enjoyable layback.
Problem 8	V0 (5a)
A hand traverse of the sharp edge leftwards to the platform above the layback of Problem 7.

Problems on the East Face. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

Odds and Sods

Odds and Sods Problems 1 to 4. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

Odds and Sods Problems 5 and 6. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

Problem 1	V1 (5c)
Begin by standing on the arête, and from the obvious side-pull go for the top just to the right.
Problem 2	V2 (6a)
Starting from the same place, go left and up the prow on a series of big sidepulls.
Problem 3	V0 (5a)
Standing jump for the top of the boulder and mantel. Fun!
Problem 4	V2 (5c)
A low-level traverse from the slab rightwards under the prow to finish up Problem 3.
Problem 5	V0+ (5b)
A low sidewall beginning with a sitting start from the break, then through the side-pull for the top.
Problem 6	V4 (6a/b)
Starting in the same place, dyno for the top directly.
Problem 7	V2 (5c+)
Straight for the closed-in flying arête, with no assistance from the boulders on either side. A sitting start has still not been completed.
Problem 8	VB (4b)
Traverse the small crack to the left.

Odds and Sods Problems 7 and 8. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

Looking north from Carn Enoch over Newport Bay

Garn Fawr

Garn Gawr (Big Rock) is the largest of Mynydd Dinas’ outcrops, and subsequently has the highest concentration of problems, plus the only trad routes on the hill. Much of the bouldering is around the main cliff, but there are a few gems to be found lower down. All the trad routes are on the main crag, none of which exceed 10 metres in length, and some of which are of a surprisingly high quality. There is a wall and solid fence that runs across its south side, don’t damage it!

Bouldering

Problems are generally described from left to right, but there are some oddities, so it’s best to check the crag diagrams for confirmation.

Garn Fawr

Problem 1 AKA Andie's Slab	V0- (4c)
Climb straight up the boulders smooth face.
Problem 2	V1 (5b)
The roof around the corner.
Problem 3	V2 (5b)
Traverse of the lip of the boulder.
Problem 4	V0 (5a)
Climb the small wall.
Problem 5	6b
Take Remembrance (see below) direct.
Problem 6	5b
The cave on left.
Problem 7	6c
The cave which is slightly rightwards.
Problem 8	6c
Climb the bulge left of offwidth.
Problem 9	4b
The aforementioned offwidth crack.
Problem 10	5c
Climb the overhanging slab.
Problem 11	VB (4c)
Climb the centre of the wall on large holds dyno to the left arête.
Problem 12	V0-
As for Problem 11 but sidepull to the left arête.
Problem 13	V0
The green crack right of the arête.
Problem 14 AKA Gargoyle Arête	V5
The south facing wall around to the right of Speed Trap (see below).
Problem 15	6a
Start at the slab with an overhanging left side. Starting under the overlap on the right, with the feet in the back, hand traverse left to two sloping holds. Swing, and dyno footless for the break. Rock over.
Problem 16	V0- (4c)
Slab to crack.
Problem 17	V0- (4c)
The layback crack.
Problem 18	6b
The Cave on the left.

Andie’s Slab Boulder

Garn Fawr Upper Tier

Garn Fawr Lower Tier

Trad Climbing

On Garn Fawr’s northern face are a number routes of medium to hard difficulty. Although onlyeight routes have been recorded at the site, there is great potential for more, and a number of projects have already been identified. Routes are described from left to right, or for those with a purely geographical mind, from east to west.

Trad routes on Garn Fawr. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

1. Memoriam	8m	S 4b
The route follows the crack on the left of the left wall of the buttress into the large niche, and then through the overhanging layback crack above.
2. Tombstone	9m	VS 4b
Starting halfway along the wall, traverse the obvious handrail rightwards to meet Rememberance halfway up the arête. Continue to the top. A nasty landing, without any real gear.
3. Remembrance	9m	S 4b
A fine and worthwhile route. Climb the easy-angled front face of the buttress, starting from the left side of the arête.
4. Dougie the Wondercat	9m	E1 5b
Start on the buttress to the right. Follow the line of holds left of the left arête, from a hard but eliminate right hand start to a long, insecure reach for a flake.
5. N/A	9m	PROJECT
Cracks not yet cleaned.
6. Kamikaze Lichen	9m	VS 4b
Down and to the right, the crag sports a large face, with three cracks running up it, and a large raven’s nest in the centre. The left arête of the face is reasonably easy, though lichenous. Another bad route to fall off.
7. N/A	9m	PROJECT
The right-hand arête.
8. Bunker Mentality	9m	E1 5c
Another quality route. Start on the slab left of centre with some thin moves, and continue direct. The crux is at the bottom, but as usual there is a nasty drop off the landing.
9. Stopgap	8m	VS 4b
A poor route up the short wall and arête left of Speed Trap.
10. Speed Trap	8m	E3 5a
This takes the right side of the sidewall, past a hollow perched flake.

Trad routes on Garn Fawr. For a clean version of the photo click HERE.

Garn Fawr's Upper Tier from the south. The face is more broken and offers fewer oppertunities for routes

Carnsefyll

Carnsefyll (Standing Stone) is a compact protuberance of rock on the north eastern side of the hill which can be seen clearly from both Carn Enoch and Garn Fawr. It can be approached from either of these points, or by parking slightly lower down the road near Cryg Las and traversing in from the east. The problems are similar to those on its bigger neighbours, but there are fewer of them.

Problem 1	VB (2a)
The slabby face overlooking the sea is a breeze.
Problem 2	V0-
Around to the east a crack just left of the obvious roof can be taken direct.
Problem 3	V2 (6a)
Climb the triangular roof over a spike.

Carnsefyll from the north

Elephant’s Arse Boulders

These intriguingly named boulders are located a just to the south of Carn Enoch, and should come into view after a short walk from any direction, although if visibility is poor, they may be difficult to locate precisely. The boulders are easy to recognise: one has the appearance of a large tooth, while to its west is a spherical boulder resting on a flat slab; both are only about 3 metres in height. The North East Arête of the tooth has a good problem at V0+ (5c); while the spherical boulder has some excellent hanging start problems on slopers, and the top is the eponymous Elephant’s Arse problem, which at V2 (6a) is particularly good if the one poor hold is ignored.

Elephant’s Arse Boulders from the west

Elephant’s Arse Boulders and Mynydd Preseli beyond

Elephant’s Arse Boulders from the east

Weather Conditions

This section displays the weather forecast for Fishguard, which is located just to the west and is one of the nearest towns to Mynydd Dinas. Remember that Fishguard is around sea level whereas Mynydd Dinas reaches 305m. This means that when looking at temperature the adiabatic lapse rate must be taken into account, which in Wales is a drop in temperature of between 0.5 and 1°C per 100m in altitude. Exposure and wind speed can also significantly lower temperatures.

Weather Forecast | Weather Maps | Weather Radar | Hurricane Center

When to Climb and Essential Gear

Garn Fawr – complete with moss and lichen

Garn Fawr’s Upper Tier

Pembrokeshire's climate is generally pretty good whatever the season, so climbing is possible throughout the year. One advantage of Mynydd Dinas’ inland location is that if the weather’s a bit rough it may be a good alternative to climbing on the area's sea cliffs, where you will inevitably receive a good soaking... or possibly something worse.

Although not essential, a bouldering mat is recommended to soften those landings, and of course, you'll also need a chalk bag and a pair of rock shoes.

For trad routes a pair of 50 metre half ropes and a set of wires, cams and quickdraws, plus a few slings and screwgates should be enough to protect most routes.

Getting There

From Fishguard (SM 957 370) take the A487 east into Dinas Cross (SN 005 384). Fifty metres after the filling station, take the tiny lane on the right, signed Cwm Gwaun & Viewpoint, (SN 011 388) it’s easy to miss so keep an eye out. Follow this twisting lane all the way up onto the moor. After a while you will pass a white painted stone on the left, bearing the title Crug Las (SN 015 373); 200 metres further on, on the right hand side of the road is a large clearing for parking (SN 016 370). From the parking spot, Carn Enoch (SN 012 370) can be seen directly up on the hill (7 minutes walk), and Carnsefyll (SN 011 373) down to the right. Garn Fawr (SN 007 368) can be seen from Carn Enoch, and is about five minutes further on in the same direction. Carnsefyll is directly down the hill from Carn Enoch, at about the same distance. The Elephant’s Arse Boulders (SN 012 367) is a little harder to find; if you are approaching from the car park head to the left of the brow of the hill and they should come into view within a few minutes.

Red Tape

No red tape here!

Although unlikely it's worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

Camping and Accommodation

There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites:

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Independent Hostel Guide
Campsites in Pembrokeshire

For everything else and more see Visit Pembrokeshire’s website.

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code

Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 35 North Pembrokeshire/Gogledd Sir Benfro
OS 1:50k Landranger Series 157 St David’s & Haverfordwest/Tyddewi a Hwlffordd

Road Maps

OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

	Pembrokeshire Coast: The Official National Park Guide by Alf Alderson, John Cleare and Ian Mercer. A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
	Climbers Club Interim Pembroke Bouldering Guide - free download (May 2008) by Nigel and Helen Barry from an original by Martin Jones (1997) A work in progress, but the only guide to Pembrokeshire’s bouldering; and it’s free!