Welcome to SP!  -
Cresta Segantini
Route

Cresta Segantini

 
Cresta Segantini

Page Type: Route

Location: Lecco, Italy, Europe

Object Title: Cresta Segantini

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: AD

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Corvus

Created/Edited: Oct 20, 2013 / Oct 21, 2013

Object ID: 872748

Hits: 606 

Page Score: 77.48%  - 8 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

Segantini ridge is one of the super-classic of the Grignetta, without any doubts is the most beautiful and interesting route to reach the summit.
The difficulties are never incurred, but the route is quite long, 500 meters. The route is signed with red marks and recently it was re-equipped to fix. Even in the winter season it's possible to climb the route but in this case the difficulties are much more high, especially in the section of the "Lingua".


undefined
Segantini Ridge
undefined
The route



Getting There

Milano - Lecco and through the tunnel of Monte Barro follow the signs to the hospital Manzoni and Valsassina. At the exit of the tunnel, near the village of Ballabio, turn to the second street on the right (signposted "Piani dei Resinelli") and continue along the many hairpin turns to the parking lot of the "Piani dei Resinelli". Follow the sign to Rifugio Porta, near which you park.

Approach

From Rifugio Porta there are different possibilities to reach Colle Valsecchi 1.898 m, the starting point of the route.
By following the path "La Direttisima" in less than 2 hours you are on the Colle Valsecchi. The path could be considered as a ferrata. In some points exposure is high: 2 metal ladders (necessary) and some fixed ropes (useful especially in winter with snow or ice) allow a safe climb.

On the Direttissima
Direttissima
Guglie
Guglie



Route Description

Follow the chimney to a small fork (ring) and then split to the left on the tower and overcome a steep rock (probabibly the difficult passage of the entire route III+), continuing later on the easier rocks to the top of the tower itself. From the top continue to the right (south) down along the ridge to the notch at the base of the Tower Dorn (Torrione Dorn), or by making a descent of 15 meters to climb the right wall to the summit, q. 1.981 m, (35m , II, III).
Staying on the ridge, go down along a slit of about 3 meters (III), crossing the next channel and up the Swiss Tower (Torrione Svizzero), on the right, but avoiding the top (60 m, II). Move to the right (south) following the Tower of the Window (Torrione della Finestra), past a lovely statue of the Madonna and then reach the next saddle . Cross to the left (north) to the base of a vertical chimney, which can be overcome with beautiful climbing (20m , III), going out on a wide ledge in the middle of the north side, just above the "Canalone della Lingua".
By paying attention, go down to find a groove on the right (face to valley) with a red mark and an old nail ring, used to descend to the bottom of the channel.
Cross the channel and overcome the rocks on the left  and later on the right (red arrow) to reach again the ridge. Continue for 50 m on the ridge (the summit is visible) and climb down to "Forcella della Ghiacciaia" (abseil 15 m). From here there two possibilities to reach the summit, the easiest is to go on the right and meet the Cermenati ridge to the summit (10 minutes) or the hardest climbing the wall (black arrow with word "summit") considered the difficult part of the route (30 m, III+, IV-). It starts with a crack to stay on left till a very exposed anchor (spit). Climb a cheminey to a confortable terrace (15 m) from which in a few minutes you reach the last chains before the summit.   

Abseiling
Abseiling
On the final part
On the final part


On the final part
Going down to Forcella della Ghiacciaia
The summit
Grignetta 2.184 m













































Descent

There are many possibilities to go down from the summit of Grignetta. Following the main:
Cermenati ridge (normal route, the easiest)
Sinagaglia ridge
Canalone Porta

On the Sinigaglia ridge it is also possible to take the path which crosses the Canalone Porta at the base of Magnaghi and Sigaro and meet the path on Cermenati ridge.


Times needed

Approach: about 2 hours (Direttissima)
Route: about 3 hours 30 minutes (depending on the conditions, level of the climber and usage of the rope, rappelling etc.).
Descent: about 1 hour 30 minutes (depending on the path)
Difference in elevation is about 1.200 m (600 m the development of the route)

Essential Gear

Helmet, 30 m rope, some carabiniers


Images