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il Fungo
Route

il Fungo

 
il Fungo

Page Type: Route

Location: Lecco, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.92030°N / 9.38833°E

Object Title: il Fungo

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS)

Difficulty: 5°/A1 or 7°

Number of Pitches: 5

Route Quality: 
 - 6 Votes
 

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Apr 17, 2005 / Apr 26, 2009

Object ID: 164658

Hits: 4517 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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this is both a Mountain and a Route page

as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.

Overview

 
il Fungo
 
 
the Guglie di Val Tesa from...
 
One of the finest rock route in the whole Grigne group
 
Guglie di Val Tesa
 
the most amusing among the not extreme routes

Approach

Torre-Lancia-Campaniletto the...
 
Starting from Piano dei Resinelli follow the road till Rifugio Porta.
Along the path "Direttissima" (mark 8) till you see this view :

Now go on to the next saddle than follow a small descending path on the left and, passing under the Campaniletto, reach the channel between Torre and Lancia. (1 hour from Rif. Porta)

Here the climbing starts



South edge - (Spigolo del Fungo) - Route Description

 
Fungo - S edge - schematic...
 
 
on the S edge of the Fungo
 
Climb the channel (4°) till the "forcella" (small saddle) - ~ 20m
cross it and go down along the channel (2°) till the starting point of the "spigolo" (edge)

First 2 pitches are the most difficult
  • Directly along a short wall to get the dihedral .(5°)
  • Along the dihedral .(5°/A1/6° or 7°)
  • Straight along a short wall (5°/A1 or 7°, 2 nails) and on till the yellow ending section (4°/3°) - comfortable ledge
  • Straight along the fantastic and extremely exposed edge till the summit (4°+)
  •  
    crossing from the Fungo to...
     
    Coming down :

  • a 15m rappel in the empty to N (starting is very delicate) let you get the thin ridge between the Fungo and the Lancia.
    Here there are 2 different possibilities :
  • along the "normal route" that means climbing down on not difficult (2°) rocks till the channel between Lancia and Torre,
    climb on (easy) to the little saddle and with one rappel get the path,

    or, better but NOT easy !!
  • Follow the ridge (cresta Accademici) till the summit of the Lancia (4°/4°+)
    From its summit 3 rappels till the saddle between Campaniletto and Torre and to the path.
  • ITALIC TEXT HERE

    Essential Gear

    Rope - 4 carabiniers - no fear of empty !!

    Difficulty table

    UIAAFrenchUSA
    F2
    PD3 - 4
    3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
    4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
    5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
    6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
    EX5.11a - 5.11b

    Images

    the higher part of Fungo, on...il Fungothe small group containing,...Fungo - Close UpTorre-Lancia-Campaniletto the...crossing from the Fungo to...Fungo - S edge - schematic...
    the Fungo from "Direttissima"...on the S edge of the Fungothe Guglie di Val Tesa from...