this is both a Mountain and a Route page
as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.
Overview
| | One of the finest rock route in the whole Grigne group | | the most amusing among the not extreme routes |
|
Approach
![Torre-Lancia-Campaniletto the...]()
Starting from Piano dei Resinelli follow the road till Rifugio Porta.
Along the path "Direttissima" (mark 8) till you see this view :
Now go on to the next saddle than follow a small descending path on the left and, passing under the Campaniletto, reach the channel between Torre and Lancia. (1 hour from Rif. Porta)
Here the climbing starts
|
South edge - (Spigolo del Fungo) - Route Description
| | Climb the channel (4°) till the "forcella" (small saddle) - ~ 20m
cross it and go down along the channel (2°) till the starting point of the "spigolo" (edge)
First 2 pitches are the most difficult
Directly along a short wall to get the dihedral .(5°)
Along the dihedral .(5°/A1/6° or 7°)
Straight along a short wall (5°/A1 or 7°, 2 nails) and on till the yellow ending section (4°/3°) - comfortable ledge
Straight along the fantastic and extremely exposed edge till the summit (4°+) | | Coming down :
a 15m rappel in the empty to N (starting is very delicate) let you get the thin ridge between the Fungo and the Lancia.
Here there are 2 different possibilities :
along the "normal route" that means climbing down on not difficult (2°) rocks till the channel between Lancia and Torre,
climb on (easy) to the little saddle and with one rappel get the path,
or, better but NOT easy !!
Follow the ridge (cresta Accademici) till the summit of the Lancia (4°/4°+)
From its summit 3 rappels till the saddle between Campaniletto and Torre and to the path.
|
|
Essential Gear
Rope - 4 carabiniers - no fear of empty !!
Difficulty table
| UIAA | French | USA |
| 1° | F | 2 |
| 2° | PD | 3 - 4 |
| 3°inf - 3° - 3° sup | AD | 5 - 5.2 |
| 4° inf - 4° - 4° sup | D | 5.3 - 5.5 |
| 5° inf - 5° - 5° sup | TD | 5.6 - 5.8 |
| 6° inf - 6° - 6° sup | ED | 5.9 - 5.11 |
| 7° | EX | 5.11a - 5.11b |
7819 Hits
75.81% Score
6 Votes
Page Type:
Lat/Lon:
Route Type:
