this is both a Mountain and a Route page
as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.
Overview
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This very strange looking tower is one of the most frequented summits of the "Grignetta" pillars.
A real test for climbers
On its summit a bell that must be ringed by the ones who climb it the first time,
but be gentle: it gives a very strong sound
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Approach
Starting from Piano dei Resinelli follow the road till Rifugio Porta.
Follow the path "Direttissima" (mark 8) till the Rifugio Rosalba (1730m) - 2h
Once here you must go down along the "sentiero delle foppe" (mark 9) and in 10 minutes you get the starting point of the route
Route Description : Gandini
120m drop, one of the finest route of the group, technical, delicate climb, wonderful rock, 6 short pitches - 3-4 hours - not to be underestimated ...
| | Starting point is on some grey rocks to get a crack.
Along the crack (30m) till the first belay (4°/5°)
On for 12m till a not comfortable belay point (4°-)
Third pitch starts with 2 pegs and , after the key passage (6°) go on the straight till you get 3 pegs (5°/A1) and on to a belay on pegs.
Straght along till a ledge, cross to left to a dihedral to be climbed for some metres than cross to the right till a very small terrace (4°/5°/5°+)
Now you can go on directly to the summit (5°) - 25 m (rock non fantastic here) or cross to the right (3°) to get the ending small wall (4°)
| | Coming down requires a rappel toward the small saddle between Torrione Cinquantenario and Torre Cecilia (the big tower on the East)
Now the best choice is going on to the summit of Torre Cecilia along the SO edge (spigolo Marimonti - another classic route of the group)
Difficulties 3° and 4°: a relaxing climb
Coming down from Torre Cecilia is along the N wall, short and easy (2° and 3°) |
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Essential Gear
6-8 carabiniers
Difficulty table
UIAA | French | USA |
1° | F | 2 |
2° | PD | 3 - 4 |
3°inf - 3° - 3° sup | AD | 5 - 5.2 |
4° inf - 4° - 4° sup | D | 5.3 - 5.5 |
5° inf - 5° - 5° sup | TD | 5.6 - 5.8 |
6° inf - 6° - 6° sup | ED | 5.9 - 5.11 |
7° | EX | 5.11a - 5.11b |