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Torre Costanza
Route

Torre Costanza

 
Torre Costanza

Page Type: Route

Location: Lecco, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.92071°N / 9.38456°E

Object Title: Torre Costanza

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5° A1 UIAA

Number of Pitches: 6

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: May 5, 2005 / Jun 8, 2008

Object ID: 164938

Hits: 5074 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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this is both a Mountain and a Route page

as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.

Overview

One of the finest towers (and routes) of the group.
It requires a not short approach (almost 2½ hours from the car parking) and can be considered as a good test for fit and training

Many routes (some never climbed twice)
Rock is not everywhere good so I can suggest to choose between 2 routes :
the via del Littorio and the Cassin on the south wall (much more difficult and a little longer - 160m)



Approach

There are many ways to get the starting point of the routes of this tower, but if you're not experienced in Grignetta paths and tracks,
the less difficult (to find) approach is coming down from Rif. Rosalba so :

Starting from Piano dei Resinelli follow the road till Rifugio Porta.
Follow the path "Direttissima" (mark 8) till the Rifugio Rosalba (1730m) - 2h

Once here you must go down along the "sentiero delle foppe" (mark 9) and in 10 minutes you arrive to the bottom of the S wall of Torrione Cinquantenario.
Now you must cross, along steep grass slopes under the Torre Cecilia till a small saddle (little rocky spur on the right).
Cross toward a channel between Torre Cecilia and Torre Costanza and follow it till the saddle. (1 hour)

Starting from the saddle you can climb the normal route (4°) that follows a series of chimneys along the N wall,
give a look to this route that should be used to come down.

Route Description : via del Littorio

But if you want to climb a fine route you must descend almost 50 m from the saddle till a plaque that marks the starting point of the
via del Littorio - 130m - 5° (5.7)
This is the finest, and the less difficult among the many routes of this tower
 
Torre Costanza - via del...
 
From the plaque follow a rocky spur (with some grass) to a small belay point (3° and 4°)

Follow the spur for 20 more m till a ledge under some overhangs (3°)
Climb along a big chimney that leads to a small saddle - 20m - (4°)

Along a cracked dihedral till an uncomfortable belay point. - 15m (A1 - 1 pass 5° or 7°)

A short cross to the left , up some metres and slightly toward right till the belay point - 20m (5°sup and 4°)

Straight to the summit - 30m, (3°)
 
The Torre Costanza East wall,...
 
Descend is along the "normal route" using 2 long rappels

After the first rappel you must cross some metres to find the starting point on the second one.

Essential Gear

2 ropes of 40m
10 carabiniers
2 stepladders or etriers can be useful


Difficulty table

UIAAFrenchUSA
F2
PD3 - 4
3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
EX5.11a - 5.11b

Images

Torre CostanzaTorre Costanza and view on Swiss AlpsTorre CostanzaThe Torre Costanza East wall,...Torre Costanza from Sentiero CeciliaTorre Costanza - SE sideTorre Costanza
Cecilia & Costanza & co The Rosalba-Giulia ridge...Torre Costanza - via del...