Welcome to SP!  -
Torrioni Magnaghi
Route

Torrioni Magnaghi

 
Torrioni Magnaghi

Page Type: Route

Location: Lecco, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.91920°N / 9.39589°E

Object Title: Torrioni Magnaghi

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: 4°+ (5.6)

Number of Pitches: 11

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Apr 20, 2005 / Jun 8, 2008

Object ID: 164698

Hits: 6982 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

this is both a Mountain and a Route page

as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.

Overview

The Torrioni Magnaghi (3 summits) are the biggest rocky massif in the Grignetta (Grigna Meridionale) range.
a view of the west wall, from...
the West side
Grignetta, Sigaro and...
the South side
Torrioni Magnaghi from East -...
the East side

Their easiest route (2°) is the normal to Magnaghi Meridionale (east wall), so that they must be considered "only for rock climbers".
On the West wall to Magnaghi Meridionale and on the South and East walls to Torrione Magnaghi Centrale there are many very difficult routes:
I think that very skilled climbers don't need further info ... difficult climbing routes are logical, easy to define and find and well marked so, here I post the most classic, amusing and various climb they can offer.

Climbing Sigaro and crossing the 3 summits of Torrioni Magnaghi is also the best climbing sequence to get the summit of Grigna Meridionale.
Can be done all year long !!!
In winter and spring the environment is very amazing

Approach

Starting point is Piano dei Resinelli.
Entering in Piano dei Resinelli, just before arriving to the the big car parking, follow, on the right, the road till Rifugio Sem.
Here you can leave your car and start walking toward Canalone Porta (mark 2).
Follow the channel (1°) till you arrive to the point where a path comes from left (traverso cresta Cermenati - mark 3).
Here the path turns to the right toward a saddle, go on till about 20 m before the saddle to a small flat area

Classic concatenation

The hardest part of the climb (Sigaro normal route) can be avoided but I think it is the best way to start the climb

After each summit the climb can be stopped, easy routes to come down.

Sigaro via normale - variante Boga
very amusing, delicate climb, wonderful rock, exposed.

Start to climb the chimney that leads to the "forcella del Sigaro" (the saddle between Sigaro and Magnaghi S)
Go on spreading legs till you catch a peg to get the Sigaro wall (1 pass of 4°)
Slightly to the right, along small cracks till a ledge (belay) 4°
Slightly to the left, turn the edge, and on fantastic rock with very exposed climb get the second ledge (variant Boga, finer than normal route) 4°
Climb a small overhang (4°+) and along a wide open dihedral and a short wall you get the summit (3°)

Coming down requires rappels along the same route


Torrione Magnaghi Meridionale - Albertini route
very amusing, delicate climb, wonderful rock, low exposure.
From the saddle of the path go to a small saddle, cross it and descend for about 10 metres.
Straigh on for 10-12 m to get the dihedral.

Along the dihedral / channel till the terminal ridge (4 short pitches) 4° and 3°
Along the ridge to the summit


Torrione Magnaghi Centrale - cross from Torrione Magnaghi Meridionale
very short and more impressive than difficult

From Magnaghi Meridionale summit down (North) to the small saddle (forcella Dorn) (easy)
A wide open movement of legs allows to get the opposite wall.
Straight few meters than cross to the right till a good belay - 7m (4°)
Along the ledge scramble till the summit

Coming down is along the N ridge and with easy climb (2°) till the saddle between Torrione Magnaghi Centrale.and Settentrionale (forcella Glasg)

Torrione Magnaghi Settentrionale - Lecco route
amusing and amusing, fantastic rock, some exposure

There are many ways to climb this wall, the best one is to start climbing directly from the saddle to the first belay (3°+)
Cross 5 m to the right (peg) and straight on along a very fine wall - 15m (4°+)
A small overhang (3°+) and then, toward the left (3°) till the summit ridge
Scramble to the summit

Coming down : to the N in 2 minutes to the "bocchetta dei venti" where you can find the path of cresta Sinigaglia (East ridge)

Here, in half an hour, scrambling on easy rocks (1°+), to the summit of Grignetta wherefrom you can descend to Piano dei Resinelli along the S ridge (easy but tiring path) Cermenati

Alternative concatenation

 
Torrione Magnaghi Centrale
 
A good variant, more difficult and longer to this concatenation is, of course if you're already a little trained :

  • Sigaro - Rizieri route (TD)

  • Magnaghi S (meridionale) - Albertini (D)
  • descend along the normal route on trhe East wall (PD)

  • Magnaghi C (centrale) - Gandini crack (TD) - the key passage is strong !

  • Magnaghi N (settentrionale) - Lecco route (D)


  • Essential Gear

    Rope - 6 carabiniers

    Difficulty table

    UIAAFrenchUSA
    F2
    PD3 - 4
    3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
    4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
    5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
    6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
    EX5.11a - 5.11b

    Images