-
9074 Hits
-
74.92% Score
-
5 Votes
Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
45.91915°N / 9.39589°E |
Route Type:
|
Trad Climbing |
|
Time Required:
|
Most of a day |
|
Difficulty:
|
5° UIAA |
|
Rock Difficulty:
|
5.8 (YDS) |
|
Number of Pitches:
|
4 |
|
this is both a Mountain and a Route page
as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.Overview
The strangest pinnacle of the group : it look just like a big (80 m high) cigarFrom the sorrounding paths it looks very impressive
No easy routes (the "normal route is 4°+ (5.6)
I've joined here 2 routes because they are normally climbed in sequence, buf if you're in a hurry, your choice should be the Rizieri !
These routes can be climbed all year long, better in spring when air is fresh and sun not too hot
 |  |  |
Approach
Starting point is Piano dei Resinelli.Entering in Piano dei Resinelli, just before arriving to the the big car parking, follow, on the right, the road till Rifugio Sem.
Here you can leave your car and start walking toward Canalone Porta (mark 2).
Follow the channel (1°) till you arrive to the point where a path comes from left (traverso cresta Cermenati - mark 3).
Here the path turns to the right toward a saddle, but you must scramble directly in the channel for about 30m to get the starting points of the routes.
 |
Routes Descriptions : Rizieri
 |  | via RIZIERI very amusing, continuous and delicate climb, wonderful rock, extreme exposure. Starting point is about 20 m under the chimney between a big tower (Torrione Magnaghi Meridionale) and the Sigaro. Climb on a big detached stone than cross to get the wall. Straight on for some meters than slightly to left along a superficial small channel till the first belay point. (4°) Slightly toward right to get a crack leading under a small roof, exit to the right and, slightly toward left till the second belay point. (5°) Now cross to the right (20m - 4° and 5°) to get the third belay. Straght to the summit (15m - 4° and 3°) |
Coming down (better having 2 ropes)
rappel 1 - from the summit to S - 15 + 7 m
rappel 2 - 20m till a ledge
rappel 3 - 20m to the base
Routes Descriptions : Cassin
 |  | via CASSIN more difficult but not as amusing as the previous one, continuous and a little stronger climb, wonderful rock, extreme exposure. Starting point is the chimney between Torrione Magnaghi Meridionale and the Sigaro. Along the chimney to the saddle (25m - 4°) Straight on than, on the right, follow the edge till the second belay of the Rizieri route (A1 - many pegs) To the left under a overhang (to be climbed - 5°), along a short wall and a small roof (5°+) than to the left to get a small channel that leads to the summit. |
Coming down (better having 2 ropes)
rappel 1 - from the summit to S - 15 + 7 m
rappel 2 - 20m till a ledge
rappel 3 - 20m to the base
Essential Gear
Rope (better using 2 ropes of 40m)6 carabiniers for Rizieri - 10 for Cassin
2 stepladders or etriers can avoid hard arm striving
Difficulty table
| UIAA | French | USA |
| 1° | F | 2 |
| 2° | PD | 3 - 4 |
| 3°inf - 3° - 3° sup | AD | 5 - 5.2 |
| 4° inf - 4° - 4° sup | D | 5.3 - 5.5 |
| 5° inf - 5° - 5° sup | TD | 5.6 - 5.8 |
| 6° inf - 6° - 6° sup | ED | 5.9 - 5.11 |
| 7° | EX | 5.11a - 5.11b |