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il Sigaro
Route

il Sigaro

 
il Sigaro

Page Type: Route

Location: Lecco, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.91915°N / 9.39589°E

Object Title: il Sigaro

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5° UIAA

Number of Pitches: 4

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes
 

 

Page By: Gabriele Roth

Created/Edited: Apr 19, 2005 / Jun 8, 2008

Object ID: 164688

Hits: 5756 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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this is both a Mountain and a Route page

as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.

Overview

The strangest pinnacle of the group : it look just like a big (80 m high) cigar
From the sorrounding paths it looks very impressive
No easy routes (the "normal route is 4°+ (5.6)

I've joined here 2 routes because they are normally climbed in sequence, buf if you're in a hurry, your choice should be the Rizieri !

These routes can be climbed all year long, better in spring when air is fresh and sun not too hot

Approach

Starting point is Piano dei Resinelli.
Entering in Piano dei Resinelli, just before arriving to the the big car parking, follow, on the right, the road till Rifugio Sem.
Here you can leave your car and start walking toward Canalone Porta (mark 2).
Follow the channel (1°) till you arrive to the point where a path comes from left (traverso cresta Cermenati - mark 3).
Here the path turns to the right toward a saddle, but you must scramble directly in the channel for about 30m to get the starting points of the routes.

Routes Descriptions : Rizieri

 
Sigaro Dones - Rizieri and...
 
 
Sigaro - Rizieri route
 
via RIZIERI

very amusing, continuous and delicate climb, wonderful rock, extreme exposure.

Starting point is about 20 m under the chimney between a big tower (Torrione Magnaghi Meridionale) and the Sigaro.
Climb on a big detached stone than cross to get the wall.
Straight on for some meters than slightly to left along a superficial small channel till the first belay point. (4°)
Slightly toward right to get a crack leading under a small roof, exit to the right and, slightly toward left till the second belay point. (5°)
Now cross to the right (20m - 4° and 5°) to get the third belay.
Straght to the summit (15m - 4° and 3°)

Coming down (better having 2 ropes)
rappel 1 - from the summit to S - 15 + 7 m
rappel 2 - 20m till a ledge
rappel 3 - 20m to the base

Routes Descriptions : Cassin

 
a sketch of the routes (see...
 
 
Sigaro - West side
 
via CASSIN

more difficult but not as amusing as the previous one, continuous and a little stronger climb, wonderful rock, extreme exposure.

Starting point is the chimney between Torrione Magnaghi Meridionale and the Sigaro.
Along the chimney to the saddle (25m - 4°)
Straight on than, on the right, follow the edge till the second belay of the Rizieri route (A1 - many pegs)
To the left under a overhang (to be climbed - 5°), along a short wall and a small roof (5°+) than to the left to get a small channel that leads to the summit.

Coming down (better having 2 ropes)
rappel 1 - from the summit to S - 15 + 7 m
rappel 2 - 20m till a ledge
rappel 3 - 20m to the base

Essential Gear

Rope (better using 2 ropes of 40m)
6 carabiniers for Rizieri - 10 for Cassin
2 stepladders or etriers can avoid hard arm striving

Difficulty table

UIAAFrenchUSA
F2
PD3 - 4
3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
EX5.11a - 5.11b

Images