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Piramide Casati
Route

Piramide Casati

 
Piramide Casati

Page Type: Route

Location: Lecco, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.95320°N / 9.38720°E

Object Title: Piramide Casati

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: UIAA 4°-5°

Number of Pitches: 12

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Dec 4, 2007 / Jun 8, 2008

Object ID: 362548

Hits: 3436 

Page Score: 77.48%  - 8 Votes 

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this is both a Mountain and a Route page

as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.

Overview

The Piramide Casati is, after the Magnaghi group, the biggest rock structure among the Grigna Meridionale (Grignetta) pillars.
Made of a mix of dolomite and limestone rocks it has a wide NW wall where 4 fine routes can be a good alternative to the usual, frequented routes of the group.

Most know it for its famous Vallepiana edge that is compared, as difficulty and engagement (even if shorter) to the Cassin route on the Medale wall.

It has an easy (I°) normal route usually used for descending but sometimes climbed by the ones walking along the Cecilia path from Colle Valsecchi to Colle Garibaldi toward the Rifugio Rosalba : the summit can be reached in few minutes with an easy (with some exposure) scramble.

My personal advice is to climb both the most amusing routes in the same day, starting with the SSW edge and, after coming down, ending with the NNW crack (better when warmed by the afternoon sun)

Getting There

From Pian dei Resinelli along the Direttissima path (going straight left at the Canalone di Val Tesa) along the path to Colle Garibaldi in 1,5-2 hours to the base of the SSW edge and a little further, scrambling on easy rocks, to the NW wall.

From Rifugio Rosalba, along the Cecilia path to Colle Garibaldi wherefrom you can see the NW wall and where the Direttissima path goes down.
Time required 1/2 h.

Vallepiana edge

 
Piramide Casati routes
 

The starting point, easy to find, is a thin crack.
The route is well defined and easy to be found, always following the edge, with some very short crosses.
No big differences of difficulties climbing along the large number of variants to the easier route.
Some pegs can give you the track to follow.
The photo, and its caption, give more info

One advice, better avoid the Camino Porro (3rd pitch) on the left and climb straight on, a little more difficult but better especially if chimney is wet.

The lenght of the route is about 200m and the difference in elevation about 150m - 6 pitches

Gasparotto crack

 
Piramide Casati routes
 

This route is much less known and climbed than the previous one but, being a little harder and much more sustained and on fantastic rock is, as for my thoughts, better.

The route follows entirely the big crack, in its middle part the wall on the right, on fantastic grey rock is a little more difficult but much more amusing.
The better ending pitch is on the left, along a gray slab (4 pegs)
The photo, and its caption, give more info

The lenght of the route is about 160m and the difference in elevation about 130m - 6 short pitches

Essential Gear

a normal (40m) rope, some (6-8) carabiniers

we used to climb it wearing mountain boots (not rock shoes) and had no problems due to the sharpness of the toeholds.

Difficulry table

UIAAFrenchUSA
F2
PD3 - 4
3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
EX5.11a - 5.11b

Images

the Casati rangePiramide Casaticlimbers on the Spigolo...Piramide CasatiPiramide CasatiPiramide CasatiPiramide Casati routes
Vallepiana edgeCasati groupPiramide Casati routesPiramide Casati e Torrione...Piramide Casati & neighbours