OverviewMany years ago (I was 20yo) one of my university friends asked me to lead him to the summit of one mountain of the valley where he used to spend his summer holidays: the Valsesia.
I thought that the 4000s of that valley were too much for a beginner so my choice fell on the Punta Grober that was (is) a "minor summit" of the valley.
Few weeks ago I met him and, while remembering, he told me he had some (3) pics taken during that climb: he sent me them.
Punta Grober is, I think, the best belvedere on the huge eastern wall of Monte Rosa: from its summit you can see both the Valsesia wall (from Punta Giordani to Punta Gnifetti-Signalkuppe) and the Valle Anzasca wall (from Signalkuppe to Cima di Iazzi) looking at them from a considerable height that allows you not to get a stiff neck.
This mountain is the eastern border of the ridge coming down from Signalkuppe and dividing the two valleys.
It has a complex structure with ridges, wall, subridges ecc. but is normally climbed only along the
normal route starting from Colle delle Locce: getting there is easy but loooong both
starting from Rif. Zamboni-Zappa (Macugnaga-Valle Anzasca) or from Rif. Barba-Ferrero (Alagna Valsesia).
Getting ThereThe two main valleys bringing to this mountain are :
Valle Anzasca - Macugnaga
along the highway of Sempione (Simplon pass) get out for Piedimulera and, along the road reach Macugnaga - then Pecetto (1327m)
a chair lift can shorten the approach to Belvedere (~2000m) where from a good path (but now it's necessary to cross the glacier)
takes you in 1 hour to Rif. Zamboni-Zappa ( Alpe Pedriola - 2065m )
Just a few km before Macugnaga on the left (South) a very wild valley (Val Quarazza) allows to reach with a looong walk, the East side of the mountain.
Valsesia - Alagna
along the highway of Sempione (Simplon pass) get out for Romagnano Sesia, then, along the Valsesia road passing through Varallo get Alagna, a taxi service can bring you to the Acqua Bianca waterfalls where from you must start walking to get the rif. Barba-Ferrero ( Alpe Vigne Superiore - 2240m)
Routes OverviewStarting from Macugnaga (rif. Zamboni)
NW ridge - from Colle delle Locce (3334m) easy
N side - not difficult (like Ciarforon north wall) but can be dangerous for icefall
another ice-snow route called "direttissima" leads to the summit along a strange line (I climbed it in a ugly weather day and I can remember only some not much steep but dangerous slopes.
NE ridge - PD - panoramic route
E side - not fine - easy
Starting from Alagna (rif. Barba Ferrero) some walls and a very fine (not difficult) ridge allow total amusement on fantastic rock with no risks.
I climbed the SE ridge - Cresta di Flua and can remember it as very amusing. (2°)
S wall many different routes and variant, fine rock quality - difficulties from 2° up to 5°
SW ridge difficulty up to 3°sup
W wall difficulty up to 4° - in the middle section rock is not so fine