Valle Spluga

Sondrio (I) - Grigioni (CH), Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Valle Spluga

Sondrio (I) - Grigioni (CH), Italy/Switzerland, Europe

32756 Hits
88.19% Score
26 Votes

Rhaetian Alps
- Additional Parents
- Lepontine Alps
Valle Spluga

Page Type:	Area/Range
Lat/Lon:	46.48610°N / 9.34940°E
Activities:	Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling, Skiing
Season:	Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Elevation:	10758 ft / 3279 m
	Sign the Climber's Log!

Overview

This is not a mountain, it' s the valley that divides Lepontine alps from Retiche alps, so, as for actual geographic division of Alps, the border between Western and Eastern Alps.

Its correct name is Val San Giacomo but all call it "Vallespluga".

You can amuse in all seasons : all mountains here are normally quite easy to be climbed (normally F or PD) but belong to a wonderful environment and can teach something about mountaneering.

I think it is one of the best areas for making first mountain experiences.

In this page there are the links to the mountains that require some skill and attention to be climbed, for most of the other ones (that do not have own page) the only requirement is a good training and fit. Exceptions are indicated where necessary

The Italian valley is oriented N-S and has 2 main chains :

Pizzo Tambò - Pizzo Quadro on the West side

Pizzo Suretta - Pizzo Stella on the East side

the Swiss valley (valley of Rhein) is oriented W-E

Western side - Lepontine Alps ridge

Tambò subgroup

The main range of the valley, between the Val Curciusa to the West, the Rhein valley to the North, the Passo Spluga (2113m) to the East and Passo del Baldiscio (2301m) to the South.
Starting from N we can point out these summits and passes :

Guggernüll (2886m)

Pizzo Tambò ( 3279m)

Pizzo Zoccone (3029m)
passo Zoccone (2922m)

Cime di Val Loga (3004m)

Pizzo Ferrè (3103m)

Pizzi dei Piani (3151m)
after this twin summit the ridge goes down to the Passo Baldiscio (2301m)

Quadro subgroup

This is the longest range of this area, starting from Psso del Baldiscio ((N) and ending with the Passo di Lendine (2326m) to the South
Starting from N we can point out these summits:

Monte Baldiscio (2851m)

Cima di Barna (2862m)

Monte Bardan (2812m)

Pizzo della Sancia (2718m)

Dosso Mottascio (2858m)

Pizzo Quadro (3013m)

Pizzo Sevino (3026m)

Pizzo Forato (2957m)

Pizzo del Torto (2723m)

from the East ridge of Pizzo Quadro a long ridge (Servizio) with the Pizzo Truzzo (2723m) and the Corna della Camoscera.

Eastern side - Rhaetian Alps ridge

Suretta subgroup

Short but important range between the Passo Spluga (E) the Rhein valley (M) the Val di Niemet (W) and the basin of Montespluga (S)
Main points of this range are :

Mittaghorn (2562m)

Schwarzorner (2890M)

Pizzo Suretta ( 3027m)

Piz Por (3026m) - requires some skill

Piz Muttala (2960m)
passo Suretta (2580m)

Pizzo Spadolazzo (2720m)

the range ends with the Passo d'Emet (2320m)

Emet subgroup

starting from Passo d'Emet to the East this group gets its higher summit

Pizzo d'Emet (3211m)
wherefrom 2 long ridges toward East and South divide the Val Niemet (N) from Val di Lei (SE) and Val Scalcoggia (Madesimo valley) (S)
On the East ridge :

Guglie d'Altare (3178 m) - requires some skill

Pizzo della Palù (3172 m)
On the South ridge :

Pizzo di Sterla (2948 m)

Monte Mater (3023 m)

Pizzo Groppera (2996m) (fantastic ski area)
the South ridge ends with the Passo d'Angeloga (2350m)

Stella subgroup

This is (can be considered) the smallest subgroup of the area delimited by 3 valleys :
Val Rabbiosa and Val d'Avero (West side) and Val di Lei (East and SE side)
From the Passo di Angeloga a short ridge with only one real summit

Pizzo Peloso (2789m) ends with the

Pizzo Stella (3163m)
and goes on toward South till the

Pizzo Sommavalle

Getting There & Accomodations

starting from Milan (Italy) by car :
- route 36 to Colico, then Chiavenna, Campodolcino, Madesimo or Montespluga
- autoroute Milano-Como-Lugano-Bellinzona-S.Bernardino (tunnel)-Splügen

starting from Chur (CH)
- autoroute of S.Bernardino till Splügen then, on the left to Spluga pass

Campodolcino - hotels and a good campingplace - you could need a car to save time

Madesimo - hotels - you could need a car to save time

Stuetta - 1 refuge-hotel - you don't need a car, can move on feet in the high part of the valley

Montespluga - hotels - - you don't need a car, can move on feet in the high part of the valley

Splugen - hotels and a good camping place, you could need a car to save time

... I used to start on foot all my climbings from Alpe Motta ... but some routes were very long ...
7-8 hours for Pizzo Quadro and Pizzi dei Piani,
5 hours for Tambò, Ferrè and Suretta ecc.
... but I was very young and fit :)

When To Climb

all year long !!!!

fine ski-mountaineering in winter
wonderful ski-mountaneering in spring
amusing excursions (easy climbs) in summer
moody ambient in fall

almost all climbs or ski-tours can be done in one day from Milan

Hiking section

Few marked paths, hikers can amuse finding here many fine ways to spend time with the only use of a map.
I can suggest some of them

from Starleggia - 1565 m (road from Campodolcino)

Alpe del Servizio - Passo del Servizio (2585m)

Pizzo della Sancia (Piz. Montagna CNS) (2718m) - fine also as ski-mountaneering

Pian dei Cavalli - lago Bianco (2322m)

from Isola - 1283 m (Spluga road)

val Febbraro - Mot del Lago - Passo Baldiscio (2350m)

Moncucco (2390m)

Val d'Oro - Soste - Stuetta (1865m) along the "sentiero del Cardinello"

from Stuetta - 1865 m (Spluga road)

val Schisarolo - bivacco Cecchini (2750m)

Madesimo - (1538m) along the "muretto degli Andossi"

from Montespluga - 1940 m (Spluga road)

val Loga - bivacco Cecchini (2750m)

laghi Azzurri - Pizzo della Casa (~2500m) - Passo Spluga

passo Suretta (2580m) - Rifugio Bertacchi (2196m) : the finest

lago Nero (2310m)

lago d'Emet - Rifugio Bertacchi (2196m)

from Madesimo 1536 m (road from Campodolcino-Pianazzo)

lago d'Emet - Rifugio Bertacchi (2196m) through val Scalcoggia

Pizzo Spadolazzo (2720m) - also as mountaneering

Alpe Motta - Lago Azzurro (1853m)

from Alpe Motta Bassa 1745 m (road from Madesimo)

Pizzo Groppera (2948m)

lago di Angeloga - Rifugio Chiavenna - lago Nero (2351m)

from Campodolcino 1066 m

lago di Angeloga - Rifugio Chiavenna - lago Nero (2351m) through Val Rabbiosa

Camping

Italy - Campodolcino

Switzerland -Splügen

Ski mountaneering section

Many possibilities on secundary summits but the ones worth to be done are :

Cima di Barna - 2862 m	fine ski mountaneering for beginners starting point : Isola drop : 1609 m Difficulty : MS time : 5-6 h when : January - March orientation : E
Pizzo Ferrè - 3103 m	complete ski mountaneering, with a fine final easy rock climbing : the best in this area starting point : Montespluga drop : 1202 m Difficulty : BSA - rope + iceaxe time : 4-5 h when : April - May orientation : NE
Pizzo Tambò - 3279 m	complete ski mountaneering starting point : Montespluga or Splugen (skilift to Danazhohe) drop : 1378 m Difficulty : BSA - iceaxe time : 4-5 h when : February - May orientation : E
Pizzo Suretta - 3027 m	complete ski mountaneering starting point : Montespluga drop : 1196 m Difficulty : BS - rope + iceaxe time : 4-5 h when : April - May orientation : E
Pizzo Stella - 3163 m	complete ski mountaneering - a little tiring, after the descent you must gain the Passo Groppera to come down to Madesimo starting point : Madesimo - telpher to Pizzo Groppera (2948 m) drop : 772 m Difficulty : BSA - rope + iceaxe time : 4 h when : October-November or April-May orientation : N

bouldering

near Cimaganda (on the road that brings from Chiavenna to Campodolcino) a lot of boulders in perfect gneiss allows to amuse.
Drops up to 15 m

Maps and Books

Carta Nazionale della Svizzera 1:50.000, foglio 267 - S.Bernardino
KOMPASS Carta Turistica 1:50.000, foglio 92 - CHIAVENNA VAL BREGAGLIA

a complete guide to the zone (only in Italian language)
MESOLCINA - SPLUGA
Monti dell'Alto Làrio
Alessandro Gogna, Alessandro Recalcati
Collana Guida ai Monti d'Italia
Club Alpino Italiano - Touring Club Italiano