| Ortler / Ortles Group Area/Range |
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| Ortler / Ortles Group   | 
| Page Type: Area/Range Location: Südtirol / Alto Adige - Trentino - Lombardia, Italy, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.37800°N / 10.56710°E Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling, Skiing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Elevation: 12812 ft / 3905 m | Page By: Gangolf Haub, mulidivarese Created/Edited: Mar 25, 2002 / Nov 20, 2011 Object ID: 150913 Hits: 26043  Loading... Page Score: 89.88% - 44 Votes  Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
0 - Recently AdoptedUpdates will take several weeks as I'm busy with the subgroup pages and will post the final Orter / Ortles Group page at the end.1 - Overview
Ortles-Cevedale group is situated in a famous italian natural park (called "STELVIO"), between Lombardia and Alto Adige region, north side of Italy. It was been theatre of spectacular battles during the first World War between Austrian and Italian soldiers (many weapons of that period are again on the glacier!). All the group is situated in Italy but is very near from Switzerland and Austria. The main villages of the region are Bormio, Santa Caterina Valfurva, Solda, Pejo, Rabbi. *To realize this page I have to say thank you to Mathias for his precious contribute!
2 - The Ortler / Ortles Group on SP
- Fallatschkamm / Cresta Vallazza (this page)
Fallatschkamm / Cresta Vallazza (separate page)
- Umbrail Group (this page)
Umbrail Group (separate page)
- Kristallkamm / Cresta di Cristallo (this page)
Kristallkamm / Cresta di Cristallo (separate page)
- Ortlerhauptkamm / Cresta Principale di Ortles
- Laas - Marteller Kamm / Gruppo Vertana-Angelo-Lasa (this page)
Laas – Laas - Marteller Kamm / Gruppo Vertana-Angelo-Lasa (separate page)
- Cresta Confinale
- Marteller Hauptkamm / Cresta Principale di Martello (this page)
Marteller Hauptkamm / Cresta Principale di Martello (separate page)
- Cevedale – Vioz – San Matteo (Forni) Group (this page)
Cevedale – Vioz – San Matteo (Forni) Group (separate page)
- Creste di Peio e Rabbi
- Ultentalkamm / Cresta Val Ultima (this page)
Ultentalkamm / Cresta Val Ultima (separate page)
3 - Fallatschkamm / Cresta Vallazza Google Terrain map of Fallatschkamm / Cresta Vallazza. |
Falatschkamm is the northernmost subgroup of the Ortler / Ortles Group in the eastern Alps. It is also one of the smallest and lowest subgroups where only two of the two dozen summits exceed 3000m. The subgroup consists of two ridges - a main ridge, which gave rise to the name, and a side ridge with a mere two summits to the west. Both ridges run south to north with the highest mountains in the south. To the north the subgroup ends high above the confluence of Münstertal / Val Müstair into Vinschgau / Val Venosta
. To the south it ends in Stilfser Joch / Passo dello Stelvio, which separates Trafoier Tal / Val di Trafoi from Valle di Braulio. The western boundary of the group is Val Muraunza, which heads up from Münster / Müstair to Umbrailpass / Giogo di Santa Maria.
For More information see the Fallatschkamm / Cresta Vallazza Page4 - Umbrail Group Google Terrain map of the Umbrail Group |
The Umbrail Group is located on the Swiss - Italian border. It is bounded by Val Muraunza in the east, Val Müstair in the north, Val Gallo and Valle di Fraéle in the south-west as well as Valle del Braulio in the south-east. The group consists of three subranges, two ridges and a loose assortment of lesser mountains. The Main Ridge at the same time is the border between Switzerland and Italy and consists of the highest mountains of the group. Half a dozen mountains surmount 3000m with Piz Murtaröl / Cima la Casina being the highest one at 3180m. To the north, separated from the main ridge by Val Mora, there is a second smaller and lower ridge. Its highest mountain is Piz Dora at 2968m. The third group, a loose assortment of four summits is located in the very west of the group and topped by Cima del Seraglio (2684m).
For More information see the Umbrail Group Page5 - Kristallkamm / Cresta di Cristallo Google Terrain map of Kristallkamm / Cresta del Cristallo |
Kristallkamm / Cresta del Cristallo consists of a moderately long ridge running from east to west, with three northern and one southern side ridges. Thanks to its easy accessibility, especially from the north, where Stilfser Joch / Passo dello Stelvio with its ski lifts, huts and bivouacs offers an abundance of accommodation opportunities the subgroup is one of the more popular mountaineering destination in the Ortler / Ortles Alps. Geographically, Kristallkamm / Cresta del Cristallo is wedged between Valle del Braulio in the north and Valfurva in the south. Both valleys combine in the basin of Bormio, where Kristallkamm suddenly rises from the valley floor to almost 3000m. The eastern boundary of the subgroup is Ortlerpass / Passo di Ortles which separates it from Ortler / Ortles itself, and thus from Ortlerhauptkamm / Cresta Principale dell'Ortles. Geologically, Kristallkamm / Cresta del Cristallo is made up from main dolomite, thus indicating its relation to the Sesvena and Umbrail Groups to the north rather than the eastern subgroups of the Ortler / Ortles Range.
For More information see the Kristallkamm / Cresta di Cristallo Page6 - Ortlerhauptkamm / Cresta Principale di Ortles 7 - Laas - Marteller Kamm / Gruppo Vertana-Angelo-Lasa Google Terrain map of Laas - Marteller Kamm / Gruppo Vertana-Angelo-Lasa. Zoom in to see the mountain names |
Laas - Marteller Kamm / Gruppo Vertana-Angelo-Lasa is formed like a triangle (see the Google Map in the summits section) which is located right across Suldental / Val di Solda from the Ortler Main Ridge. Its boundaries are Suldental / Val di Solda in the west and Martelltal / Valle di Martello in the east, which both join at Eisseepass / Passo di Lago Gelato in the southern tip of the triangle. The northern boundary is Vinschgau / Val Venosta. From there, from the village of Laas / Lasa, a steep Valley cuts into the group: Laaser Tal / Valle di Lasa. It separates the northern part of the group in two - the eastern ridgeline of Marteller Westkamm / Cresta di Martello Occidentale and the half dozen ridgelines of Suldenkamm / Cresta di Solda in the west. Both groups join forces in the central mountain of the group, Schildspitze / Punta di Scudo, from which the main ridge runs towards Eisseepass / Passo di Lago Gelato.
Most of the mountains of the group are either hiking summits or easy mountaineering destinations. In winter almost all of them are climbed as ski tours. In any case you will have to scale huge elevation differences as even the unimportant summits reach between 2700 and 2900m while the starting points in the valley can be as low as 850m (Laas / Lasa). The ends of both Suldental / Val di Solda and Martelltal / Valle di Martello are already above 1800m while the upper end of Laaser Tal / Val di Lasa reaches more than 2000m. Consequently you will find all the mountain huts of the group in these places. Most popular hiking summits are Vorderes Schöneck and Hinteres Schöneck as well as Hintere Schöntaufspitze, which can be reached from the Sulden ski area. Cable-cars facilitate the ascents.
For More information see the Laas - Marteller Kamm / Gruppo Vertana-Angelo-Lasa Page8 - Cresta Confinale 9 - Marteller Hauptkamm / Cresta Principale di Martello Google Terrain map of Marteller Hauptkamm/ Cresta Principale di Martello. Zoom in to see the mountain names |
The largest subgroup of the large Ortler / Ortles Group is located at its north-western end. It is a single ridge, which stretches from the central part of the range, i.e. from the vicinity of Monte Cevedale, all the way to the north-west, where it ends right above the city of Meran / Merano. It is wedged between Ultental / Val d'Ultimo in the south, lower Vinschgau / Val Venosta in the north and Martelltal / Val di Martello in the west. From this latter valley, or rather the village at the mouth of it the subgroup derives its name: Marteller Hauptkamm. Literally translated, this would be Cresta Principale di Martello in Italian or Martell Main Ridge in English.
The crest stretches some 25km from WSW to ENE with the highest mountains, all 3000ers, at one end from where elevations gradually drop until they reach some 1600m before finally dropping into the Etsch / Adige basin above Meran / Merano. Consequently the different parts of the range are very different and activities also vary a lot. While in the higher parts there are only few hiking trails and most mountains are reserved for alpinists the western parts of the ridge are wonderful hiking grounds with a huge network of trails. In winter, however, all parts of the subgroup attract tour skiers and there is many a mountain which gets ascents in the wintertime.
For More information see the Marteller Hauptkamm / Cresta Principale di Martello Page10 - Cevedale – Vioz – San Matteo (Forni) Group Google Terrain map of the Cevedale - Vioz - San Matteo Group. Zoom in to see the mountain names |
Almost all of the mountains of this subgroup are located on two ridges, which together appear to be S-shaped. Valle del Monte separates the ridges. The northern main ridge runs from Cevedale southward to Monte Vioz, turns west, passing the mighty Ghiacciaio dei Forni (Forni Glacier) to Punta San Matteo, from where it reaches its endpoint, Corno dei Tre Signori, the westernmost mountain of the group. The south ridge first runs south-eastward along the Ercavallo Crest towards Forcellina di Montozzo from where it heads north-westward across Monte Redival towards Peio. The mountains on the south ridge are far less important than the northern ones.11 - Creste di Peio e Rabbi 12 - Ultentalkamm / Cresta Val Ultima Google Terrain map of Ultentalkamm / Cresta Val d'Ultimo. Zoom in to see the mountain names |
Ultental / Val d'Ultimo stretches deep into inside the Ortler / Ortles Group from the east. It starts at Lana near Meran / Maerano and ends in several branches near the central part of the greater Group. The most important of these branches is Kirchbergtal / Val Montechiesa, which ends in Passo di Rabbi. Ultental / Val d'Ultimo is accompanied by two long ridges, which are both considered subgroups of the Ortler / Ortles Group: Marteller Hauptkamm / Cresta Principale di Martello in the north and west and Ultentalkamm / Cresta Val d'Ultimo in the south.
Ultentalkamm / Cresta Val d'Ultimo, much like its northern counterpart, starts in the south-east, close to the centre of the Ortler / Ortles Group. It is separated from Marteller Hauptkamm / Cresta Principale di Martello by Schwarzer Joch / Giogo Nero, an only slightly pronounced saddle at 2822m. Right to the south of the saddle you can find the highest mountain of the group, Gleckspitze / Collechio (2957m). Unlike the northern subgroup, however, it is composed of several ridges, all separated by the important passes of the group. The northern boundary, quite obviously, is Ultental / Val d'Ultimo, the southern boundaries are Valle di Rabbi and Val di Sole while the eastern boundary is composed by Val Pescara and Marauntal / Val Marano. These latter valleys separate the Ortler / Ortles Group from the Nonsberg Group and it is here that the Peradriatic Fault separates the North-African from the Eurasian tectonic plate.
For More information see the Ultentalkamm / Cresta Val d'Ultimo Page13 - Valleys of the group - NORTH SIDE (Alto Adige-Sud Tirol)Solda Valley
- From Bolzano/Bozen (Alto Adige/Sud Tirol) to Merano and then by local route follow the signals to Stelvio mountain. Before to arrive to Trafoi, turn left to Solda (Sulden)
- From Bormio through Stelvio pass, after the village of Trafoi turn left (1 hour and half)
- from Austria by car through highways via either Innsbruck or Bregenz to Landeck and then following Staatsstraße S 13 to the italian border at the Reschenpass / Passo di Resia . There the Vinschgau / Val Venosta valley starts that represents the northern border of Ortles-Cevedale group.
The village of Solda/Sulden is situated on the upper part of Val di Solda, surrounded by the highest peaks of Monte Ortles (Ortler) 3905 meters, Gran Zebrù (Koenigspitze) 3851 meters, Monte Zebrù 3735 meters and Cima di Solda 3387 meters.
From Solda/Sulden you have a lot of trekking/climbing possibilities:
- to Ortles, by chiarlift to K2 refuge, and from here to
Ref. Coston (reaching also from Trafoi), Ref. Payer (whre starts the Orrtles Normal Route).
- to Angelo Grande/Angelus Spitze and Cima Vertana direction, to reach the: ref. Serristori/Düsseldorfer Hütte (2721m), from where you have a beautiful overview over Ortles, Gran Zebrù and Zebrù.
- by cableway to ref. Milano (2581m), from where you can crossing to south to refuge Refuge Casati (glacier route) or to east to Refuge Nino Corsi/Zufallhutte 2264 meters (trekking route).
Martello valley
The Martello valley is reaching from Silandro village, situated on the route between Merano and Stelvio Pass. It is a paradise for ski alpinism in winter and spring and for trekkers and climbers in summer period. The valley is dominated by Monte Cevedale; anyway, many mountains are situated in this area:
- In the sub-group between valleys of Sulden/Solda and Martell/Martello:
Cima Vertana - Vertainspitze (3544 m)
Grande Angelo - Hoher Angelus (3521 m)
Cima di Lasa - Laaser Spitze (3304 m)
- In the sub-goup between the valleys of Martell/Martello and Ulten/Ultimo:
L'orecchia di Lepre - Hasenoehrl (3257 m)
Gioveretto - Zufrittspitze (3438 m)
Cima Sternai - Hintere Eggenspitze (3443 m)
Punta Beltovo / Schöntaufspitze (3325 m)
14 - Valleys of the group - SOUTH SIDE (Lombardia)You can reach this area of the Ortles-Cevedale group from Milan 1) by car (local route "Vallassina" number 36 to Lecco and then to Colico (north side Como lake) and then to Morbegno, Sondrio, Tirano and finally Bormio (three hours) or 2) by train (from Milan Central station destination Tirano and then by bus to Bormio (4 hours) or directly by bus.
In the summer period you can arrive from north or east side of the group using routes through wonderful mountain pass like Stelvio (from merano/Meran). Situated, at 2700 meters of altitude (the highest mountain pass reaching by car), it requires 44 bends to go up and 15 to go down - open only from june to the end of october. Or mountain pass like Bernina - Forcola (open only from june to the end of october) pass to Livigno and then through Foscagno (2200 meters) to Bormio (3 hours).
You can reach Bormio also from Santa Maria (Munstertal - CH) by car following the signals to Giogo di Santa Maria (Pab Umbrail) on the border between Switzerland and Italy and then to Bormio (1 hour and half, it's open only from june to the end of october).
Look here the more info
Cedèc valley
From Santa Caterina Valfurva to Reguge "Ghiacciao ai Forni" by car (rules for private traffic in the month of August, bus service).
In this valley is situated the Refuge Pizzini Frattola 2700 metres, from where starts the normal route to Gran Zebrù (Koenigspitze) 3851 meters. If you continue on the same path that arrive to this refuge, you arrive to Refuge Casati, from where starts the Monte Cevedale 3769 meters Normal route.
Forni valley
From Santa Caterina Valfurva to Reguge "Ghiacciao ai Forni" by car (rules for private traffic in the month of August, bus service).
The only refuge situated in this valley is Branca-Martinelli, base for the Palon de la Mare 3703 meters and
Punta San Matteo 3678 meters Normal routes. On the route to San Matteo is situated also a bivouac, called Meneghello.
Zebrù valley
From Bormio on the route to Santa Caterina Valfurva follow the signals to Niblogo, where it is situated a parking area.
In the upper part of the valley is situated the Refugio Quinto Alpini and Guido Bertarelli 2877 meters (here another link), from where starts the normal route to Monte Zebrù 3735 meters.
15 - Valleys of the group - EAST SIDE (Trentino) Pizzo Tresero 3594 meters
bivouac Seveso
South-side of the group (near Gavia pass):
Corno dei Tre Signori (3360 m)
Pejo valley
Branching out from Val di Sole by Ossana, Val di Peio stretches several kilometres into the Ortles Cevedale range, surrounded by well-known peaks like the Monte Vioz 3645 meters From Pejo started the normal route to this nice peak with, at only 20 minutes from the top, the refuge Mantova al Vioz, one of the highest of the group.
Anothe possibility for a great excursion or for a base of nice climbings (to Cevedale, Rosole, Palon de la Mare) is Rifugio Larcher al Cevedale.
Rabbi valley
Rabbi is a side valley of "Val di Sole" (Sun Valley) and is one of the more suggestive valleys of Trentino. It has two nice refuges, Silvio Dorigoni" alpine hut (2437 m.) and Stella Alpina" alpine hut near Corvo Lake (2425 m.).
Ultimo valley
With the ancient villages of S. Pancrazio (736 m), S. Valburga (1.190 m), S. Nicolò (1.256 m), S. Geltrude (1.519 m), and Proves 1.422 m, the Ultimo valley is on of more carcteristic of the area. Schwellalm skiing area, has a beatiful view over Ortles Cevedale peaks.
Informations about all this area:
Ghiacciai - The Ortles - Cevedale
A.P.T. Valli di Sole, Pejo e Rabbi
Viale Marconi, 7
38027 Malè, Italy
Tel +39 (0463) 901280
Fax: +39 (0463) 902911
E-Mail: pejo@valdisole.net
16 - 13 PEAKS TOUR
It's a tour that in few days without go down under 3000 meters lead you through 13 peaks of the region:
From Pizzo Tresero (m.3594) to Punta S.Matteo (m.3678)
- DAY 1 -
From Santa Canterina Valfurva (Valtellina - Italy) you go by car to Gavia pass. From here on the left side of the pass you walk through the normal route to Pizzo Tresero until Bivacco Seveso, and crossing South-West ridge on the snow (keep the left), you lead the Monte Tresero peak (m.3594 - easy passages on the rocks near the peak). Then through small rockes you lead Punta Pedranzini (m.3599): from where, without difficult passages, you arrive on Cima Dosegù (m.3560) From here you can admire the north side of Punta San Matteo! Then be carefull at the short ridge south-east (ledges to north). If the visibility is not good, keep the easy small rockes at south. To lead San Matteo (m.3678) walk on easy snow-ridge NW, (45° - use absolutely the crampons). From the peak you go down and through south side of Monte Giumella (m.3596 - easy to climb - few minutes from the path). Then go down to Colle degli Orsi (m.3304), in wich you find Bivacco Meneghello, that you can look when you are very near to it (ore 2.30-3, PD+).
From Punta Cadini (m.3524) - Monte Vioz (m.3645)
- DAY 2 -
From Bivacco Meneghello, after Col degli Orsi, you go up through West that leads on Punta Cadini (m.3524). Go down from here, you climb the easy rocks through Rocca di Santa Caterina South-ridge. You climb a small wall (few meters - II/IV level) and leaded "la Rocca" you arrive quickly on Cima di Peio (m.3549) from where, always through the ridge, you reach Punta Taviéla (m.3612). When you go down you have to climb the hardest passages on the rocks of the tour. From here to East, you arrive on Monte Vioz (m.3645), at few minutes to Refuge Mantova/Vioz (6-7-hours, AD).
From Monte Vioz (m.3645) to Monte Cevedale (m.3769)
- DAY 3 -
From refuge Refuge Mantova/Vioz you lead in 15 minutes the peak of Monte Vioz (m.3645), from where you go down to north, to pass of Vedretta Rossa (m.3405). From here you go up through the SW ridge of Palón de la Mare (m.3703), easy until the peak.
An other easy path the go down leads to Col de la Mare (m.3442), near Bivacco Colombo. You cross to Cima del M. Ròsole (m.3536) until the pass with the same name of the mountain (m.3502) from where, you arrive on the Monte Cevedale peak (m.3769), highest point of the tour. By Cevedale Normal route (look the description in the Cevedale page) you lead Refuge Casati (ore 4-5, PD).
17 - Red TapeThe central part of the Ortler Group with almost all 3000ers is part of Nationalpark Stilfser Joch / Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio, where the usual restrictions in national parks apply. The north-westernmost corner of the group, in the north-west of the Umbrail Subgroup belongs to Schweizerischer Nationalpark / Parco Nazionale Svizzero where even fiercer restrictions are enforced.
Find more information on the websites of the respective parks:
18 - Mountain Huts and RefugesHuts
Bivouacs
| Name | Elevation | Thumbnail |
| Bivacco Battaglione Ortles | 3.130 m |  |
| Bivacco Gianpaolo del Piero | 3.180 m | |
| Hochjochbiwak / Bivacco Citta di Cantu | 3.535 m |  |
| Bivacco Ninotta Locatelli | 3.380 m | |
| Bivacco Lombardi | 3.350 m |  |
| Bivacco Dino Marinelli | 2.075 m | |
| Bivacco Francesco Meneghello | 3.340 m | |
| Bivacco Passo del Zebru | 3.010 m | |
| Bivacco Leone Pellicioli | 3.230 m | |
| Bivacco Pozze | 1.989 m | |
| Bivacco Provolino | 3.051 m | |
| Bivacco Seveso | 3.398 m |  |
| Bivacco Malga Val | 1.925 m | |
19 - Accommodation20 - Weather Conditions
21 - Maps & BooksMaps
Digital Maps
Regular Maps
- Kompass Maps
- Nationalpark Stilfserjoch / Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio
Kompass Map WK072
1:50000
ISBN: 3-85491-391-5
- Unterengadin / Bassa Engadina
Kompass Map WK098
1:50000
ISBN: 978-3-85491-331-3
- Meran / Merano
Kompass Map WK53
1:50000
ISBN: 978-3-85491-059-2
- Val di Sole
Kompass Map WK119
1:50000
ISBN: 978-3-85026-101-2
- Vinschgau / Val Venosta
Kompass Map WK52
1:50000
ISBN: 978-3-85491-058-9
Tabacco Maps
- VAL VENOSTA - VINSCHGAU - SESVENNA
Tabacco Map 044
1:25000
ISBN: 978-8883150609
- ORTLES-CEVEDALE / ORTLERGEBIET
Tabacco Map 008
1:25000
ISBN: 978-8883150081
- ADAMELLO / PRESANELLA
Tabacco Map 052
1:25000
ISBN: 978-8883150876
- VAL MARTELLO-SILANDRO-LACES
Tabacco Map 045
1:25000
ISBN: 978-8883150661
- VAL DI PEIO - VAL DI RABBI - VAL DI SOLE
Tabacco Map 048
1:25000
ISBN: 978-8883150692
- VAL D´ULTIMO / ULTENTAL
Tabacco Map 042
1:25000
ISBN: 978-8883150562
- MERANO E DITORNI / MERAN UND UMGEBUNG
Tabacco Map 011
1:25000
ISBN: 978-8883150111
Books
- Unterengadin
R. and S. Weiss
Rother Verlag
ISBN: 3-7633-4043-2
- Vinschgau
Rother Wanderführer
Rother Verlag
ISBN: 978-3-7633-4204-1
- Rund um Meran
H. Klier
Rother Wanderführer
Rother Verlag
ISBN: 978-3-7633-4290-7
- Meran / Burggrafenamt
Kompass Wanderbuch 951
Kompass Verlag
ISBN: 3-87051-386-1
- Vinschgau / Ortlergruppe
Kompass Wanderbuch 950
Kompass Verlag
ISBN: 3-87051-404-3
- Val di Sole
Kompass Wanderbuch 976
Kompass Verlag
ISBN: 978-3-85491-155-5
- Ortleralpen
P. Holl
Alpenvereinsführer
Rother Verlag
ISBN: 3-7633-1313-3 Images
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