It was first climbed on August 1, 1947 by Friedrich Fritz and Guenther Buccholtz (Germany), Gustavo Moeller, Douglas Moore, Isaias Paz and Guillermo Sanjinés (Bolivia).
Beautiful from far away and difficult to get close to, Chachacomani's distinctive South Face is very clear from the Altiplano. Traveler and explorer Sir Martin Conway reference to the mountain as "Chisel Peak". The best lines are on the South face but the "Macho Mountain" (the literal Aymara translation) has been climbed from most directions. To the NW of the mountain is a large flat glacier that links the Chachacomani to Kelluani (5,912 m/19.396 ft).
Unfortunately no public transportation is available to the area.
Hire a Jeep from La Paz and travel via Peñas to the Hichukhota valley. Continue up the road to the top of the valley, passing impressively high above Laguna Khara Khota. At the top of the valley, where the old road continues up to the right to Mina Fabulosa, follow the road up to the left, go over the pass Paso Mullu, and get dropped of at the bottom of the valley near the houses (Estancia Lloco Lloconi).
Journey time is about 4 hours and costs US$200 from La Paz.
Cross the river Amawaya Jawira and follow the path up to the pass. On the pass turn to left in direction to the lake Leche Khota. By the shore the of lake are excellent campsites. You can also continue from laguna Leche Khota on moraine between Chachacomani and Grupo Tres Marias (on the left side of moraine) to possible campsites on the slopes of Chachacomani. From Estancia Lloco Lloconi is about 6 hours walking.
It is possible to hire llamas in Estancia Lloco Lloconi, but the local people do not have much experience with tourists.
From this campsite head left to the col (on the left side of glacier/moraine), which is reached in 1 hour. From the col turn right to arrive bellow the South Face.
Logistical changes (by dawico Jun 1, 2020)
The old approach to Chachacomani through Q'ara Qhuta valley, Estancia Lloco Lloconi and Leche Qhuta is no longer used by climber. Usually, Chachacomani is climbed by Northwest face, reached by the Altiplano side (Alto Cruz Pampa village). Several families work with donkeys and provide good service. NO ASSAULT has been reported at least for the last twelve years.
Gringos and nonlocal Bolivians have had innumerable problems (assaults and road blockings) with peasants from the west of this area who had a bad reputation since pre-Inca times.
The climbing season is in the Cordillera Real from May to September, but the best time for climbing the Chachacomani is August to September (depending of snow/ice condition).
South Face normal route (II/AD, 55°, 800m / 2,600 ft)
South Face direct route (II/D-, 65°/55°, 800m / 2,600 ft)
30.09.1998, Branko Ivanek (Slovenia) and Marco Soria (Bolivia)
NOTE: You must find the best place for crossing a big bergschrund (up to 90° few meters)
Southeast ridge route (II/AD, 50°, 800m / 2,600 ft)
Southeast buttres route (III+ (5.7)/D (V), 70°, 800m / 2,600 ft)
01.08.1989, Geoff Bartram, John Culberson, Larry Hall and Matt Koehler (USA)
DESCENT: on the top turn to west and follow the ridge on the right side to the col. From the col on the mixed terrain down to the glacier. You can descent also by the easiest South Face route.
Camping is possible almost on all the way. There is no fess, but beware of the locals.
Some useful links:
CIA World Fact Book
Bolivian News (only spanish)
Bolivia, A climbing Guide of my good friend Yossi Brain, The Mountaneers,1999
Lonely Planet Bolivia,Swaney Deana, 4th ed.
A new map of the Cordillera Real de Los Andes, Liam P. O'Brien (1995)