La Fourclaz or Pointe des Ouillons

It is the second peak, after the Pointe Léchaud (3.127m) the most elevated of this small but wide mountainous subgroup, on the long crest of border between Italy and France that from the Footstep of the Small St. Bernard (2.185m) goes up to the of the Seigne Pass (2.694m), where it begins the great Chain of the Mount Blanc. You are more precisely situated to South of the same one, where the direction crest S-SE fold in N-NE, what important topographical knot discreetly. In effects from the Fourclaz (this is the name of a series of small points, the most greater of which it is said Pointe des Ouillons (3.112m) while the Italian side always results turned to the Valley of the Breuil (secondary but belonging to the Valley of La Thuile), the French sector is separated in two: to N the Mountains of the Seigne in the Valley of the Glaciers, to S the big "Vallone" of Versoyen. Its rock is ancient and shattered and surely not suited for the climb; her slopes therefore they result dangerous and exposed to the falling of stones. Only the long run in crest from the With the Breuil (2.882m) to the small depression among the same one and the Little Léchaud (2.973m) you can be considered profitable, if nothing else for the splendid ones, uncommon and unusual seen on the Mount Blanc. The simplest or normal route remains, if nothing else for the brevity of the slope, the Oriental Slope that dirties the underlying Breuil Glacier with a scarp of broken and steep rocks. For the aforesaid motives it is poorly known top and still less frequented; it deserves the combining of slope they govern the neighbor Léchaud Point, by departure from of Vallone Tormotta (described of the approach of you see), both from that more to East also called of Breuil Valley, or from the of Chavannes Valley, site anymore to North, by crossing in sense North/South. The ascent develops him in wild and uncontaminated, as well as rich environment of waters however. They are present four glaciers (five also considering him the of Glacier Chavannes, situated however in the homonym valley to the slopes of the Point Léchaud therefore beyond the of Hill Low Western Bassa Serra), numerous glacial little loches of every form and dimension and launchings fresh torrents; even the fauna is discreetly abundant and, among the various observations, it doesn't result rare to come upon him in the regal flight of the eagle or the vulture also called gypaetus.

E' la seconda vetta, dopo la Pointe Léchaud (3.127 m) la più elevata di questo piccolo ma esteso sottogruppo montuoso, sulla lunga cresta di confine tra Italia e Francia che dal Passo del Piccolo San Bernardo (2.185 m) risale fino al Colle della Seigne (2.694 m), ove inizia la grande Catena del Monte Bianco. Più precisamente è posta a S della stessa, dove la cresta da direzione S-SE piega in N-NE, quale nodo topografico discretamente importante. In effetti dalla Fourclaz (questo è il nome di una serie di piccole punte, la maggiore delle quali è detta Pointe des Ouillons (3.112 m) mentre il lato italiano risulta sempre rivolto al Vallone del Breuil (secondario ma appartenente alla Valle di La Thuile), il settore francese rimane diviso in due: a N la Montagne de la Seigne nella Valle dei Ghiacciai, a S il grosso Vallone di Versoyen. La sua roccia è antica e frantumata e sicuramente poco adatta all'arrampicata; i suoi versanti risultano di conseguenza pericolosi ed esposti alla caduta di pietre. Solo il lungo percorso in cresta dal Col du Breuil (2.882 m) alla piccola depressione tra la stessa ed il Petit Léchaud (2.973 m) può essere considerata remunerativo, se non altro per le splendide ed inusuali viste sul Monte Bianco. La via più semplice o normale rimane, se non altro per la brevità della salita, il Versante Orientale che con una scarpata di rocce rotte e ripide insozza il sottostante Glacier du Breuil. Per i suddetti motivi è cima scarsamente conosciuta ed ancor meno frequentata; merita l'abbinamento di salita con la vicina Punta Léchaud, sia partendo dal Vallone della Tormotta (vedi l'avvicinamento descritto), sia da quello attiguo detto più propriamente del Breuil oppure dal Vallone di Chavannes, sito più a N, con traversata in senso N/S. La salita si svolge comunque in ambiente selvaggio ed incontaminato, nonché ricco di acque con quattro ghiacciai (cinque considerando anche il Ghiacciaio di Chavannes, situato però nell'omonimo vallone alle pendici della Punta Léchaud dunque al di là del Colle di Bassa Serra Occidentale), laghi e diversi torrenti; anche la fauna é discretamente abbondante e, tra le varie osservazioni, non risulta raro imbattersi nel volo regale dell'aquila o del gipeto.

First Ascents

• First on the summit: Unknown.
• In winter: Unknown.
• GREAT TRAVERSE from Chavannes Pass (2.603m) to Chavannes Pass: Léchaud Mount (2.805m) - Quota 2.956m, 3.000m, 3.061m - Léchaud Point (3.127m) - Petit Léchaud (2.973m) La Fourclaz or Ouillons Point (NW 3.112m, Central 3.090m, SE 3.061m) - Breuil Pass (2.882m) - Quota 3.008m - Miravidi Mount (3.068m) - Veys Pass (2.984m) - Glaciers Point (3.023m) - Western Bassa Serra Pass (2.900m) - Glacier of Chavannes Lakes (2.713m, 2.631m) - Chavannes Pass: Osvaldo Cardellina and Giuseppe Lamazzi (integral), Marco Cossard, Raffaella Pellizzari and Sandro Plat (leaving out La Fourclaz three Summits), (Sep 28th, 1980), in day from Chavannes Valley.

Getting There

BY CAR:

• From the Morgex exit of Motorway A5 (921m), continue for about 3 km on SS.26 towards Pré Saint Didier (1.017m). SS.26 becomes the main street of the small city and then continues toward Colle del Piccolo San Bernardo (2.188m). After several hairpins, and past the Villages of Elevaz (1.302m) and la Balme (1.309m) reach the famous ski resort of La Thuile (1.441m). Turn left on the bridge that crosses "Dora di La Thuile", a go on along the same road continue to rise along the SS.26, which leads to the Piccolo San Bernardo Pass to Lake Verney (2.088m) just below the pass.

IN AUTO:

• Dall'uscita dell'Autostrada A5 nel comune di Morgex (921 m) proseguire per circa 3 km lungo la SS.26 verso il Paese di Pré Saint Didier (1.017 m), addentrarsi nella via centrale del paese e proseguire sempre lungo la SS.26 che porta al Colle del Piccolo San Bernardo (2.188 m). Dopo numerosi tornanti e superate le Frazioni di Elevaz (1.302 m) e la Balme (1.309 m) si giunge alla famosa località sciistica di La Thuile (1.441 m). Svoltare a destra sul ponte che attraversa la "Dora di La Thuile", continuare a salire lungo la SS.26 che conduce al Colle de Piccolo San Bernardo fino al Lago di Verney (2.088 m) sito appena sotto il colle.

BY PLANE:

• Aeroporto "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta).

Approach

From parking (2.098m), near the Verney Lake (2.088m), by Northwest direction and groundroad to descend briefly to of same effluent (Lake Torrent) in quota 2.079m; in fork of same (continued in Northeast toward nearby Lechepré Pasture, (2.017m) with other three paths, to choose the first in left and, by before SW direction, after North to reach the Higher Verney Lake (2.280m). Turning in right (East) and passing between the same and a tiny lake to arrive at a cross with principal path, in the junction of two small torrents. Continue in North-northeast to Torvéraz Alp (variant), also, always by the same and NW direction, to small basin, with little lake, sited below S Slopes of small, but smart, Red Point (2.659m); to go up higher "colletto" (= small and round pass), straight away in West of same (2.551m). To like this "penetrate" into Tormotta(z) Vallon (= great alpine valley), forwarded the Breuil, true and own; leaving in left (West) two of Red Point mini lakes to reach the effluent in quota 2490m~, to be transformed the same, immediately afterwards, the tributary of more important following Tormotta two Lakes (2.486m the major), below of typical "great bread" Punta Tormotta (2.686m). To wade across, non always easily (above all in evening return for considerable of waters a rise) getting in gravely tableland, amongst various lakes; by North direction and scarce traces to join with Arguerey Torrent, encircled by numerous and with the same name small lakes, in quota 2.436m (E; 2h'30).

 

Moving the cursor one can see the overall scene

Routes

A) - E Slope: from the Little ponds of Arguerey, to quota meters of 2.436 to continue toward N-NW in the middle of the sundry Streams of the Lochs Glacier of Arguerey, coming from the Northern Glacier of Arguerey and from the Glacier of the Breuil; to laboriously climb, without trace for deposits and moraines in not excessive inclination, reaching the little ponds to quota 2.528m, or Higher Lacks Glacier of Arguerey; from these, after having doubled to West the quota 2.505m the through the various ramifications of the Stream of the Breuil to get in himself in the real homonym valley, leaving on the right (Of it) the various quotas of the Crest S-if of the West Point of the Low Greenhouse as well as the homonym Western Pass. Always for moraines or snowfields to gradually go himself with direction NW on the Glacier of the Breuil, that is reached to quota 2.860/70m~, near a little lake with two cornets and situated among the Petit Léchaud (2.973m) to NW and the Pointe des Ouillons (3.112m) to SW. To cross the glacier toward Or in almost level route (attention presence of some crevasses) and, with a gradient of about fifty meters, to easily go himself against the Oriental Wall of the Fourclaz. To go up again an earthy gully and of splinters rocks broken and enough steep mixed through to dark slope dangerous than not difficult (attention to shift stones on who comes behind!); to go out near the Pointe des Ouillons (3.112m), the most elevated of the long Crest of the Fourclaz, and through a brief crossing on you space out reddish to reach her (EE/A; F+; 2h'00; altogether 4h'30/5h'00). DESCENT: for the same street returning also by traverse to the Pass of the Breuil (2.882m), for the itinerary B, or, and surely better, completing the crossing toward North, with descent to the Saddle 2.950m around, immediately precedent the Little Léchaud (2.973m).

 

 

B) - SE Crest through the Breuil Pass: from the entry of the real Vallone of the Breuil to quota 2.600m~ to continue verse NW, there where the torrent divides him in two branches in quota 2.675m around; abandoning on the right the route of the precedent itinerary, to decidedly address instead him to West entering a debris-morainic little valley. To go up again him among grassy backs and slant formed by splinters having to the left or South the Northern Glacier of Arguerey and to the right or North the Glacier of the Breuil; to reach the conjunction among the two to quota 2.825m~ and from this point shortly time the Breuil Pass (2.882m; 1h'00 from the alternative 2.436m, near the Little Loches of Arguerey), sets to horse among the Miravidi Mountain (3.068m) and her before the three constituent points The Fourclaz (3.061m). To begin too much not the slope through her steep SE Crest of this last reaching the Antesummit of it South (3.020m~), easily and shortly time. From this point the run becomes more airplane and with reddish rocks and routs (I°/II° - on the thread of crest) and overcoming in succession four small carvings or little saddles to reach the Point if or Southern (3.061m). To continue in crest going down along the edge of the same one, or revolving to the right at times and sometimes to the left some asperities, reaching a more marked saddle (3.040/45m~), later which the crest raises again him; to reach the Central Point (3.090m), with the same characteristics of run and peers difficulty. To cross the four turrets summital and to again begin to go down; to climb over a rocky terrace, pronounced more (also III°, if crossed on the thread), a last small point reaching the saddle, less pronounced of the preceding one, following (3.070/75m~). With more linear run to reach the most elevated Peak of The Fourclaz and known as Ouillons Point (3.112m; 1h'00/1h'15 and also more, according to the select route or of the possible "trickeries" or avoidances in crest; in total 5h'30/6h'00). DESCENT: for the same street returning to the Pass of the Breuil 2.882m, for the itinerary A, or, and surely better, completing the crossing toward North, with descent to the Saddle 2.950m~, precedent the Little Léchaud (2.973m).