Left Entrance Wall, 5.10a-5.11b

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
California, United States, North America
Activities:
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Season:
Spring, Fall, Winter
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Left Entrance Wall, 5.10a-5.11b
Created On: Mar 27, 2018
Last Edited On: Mar 27, 2018


Overview/Approach

Reeeeally (sic) Good, 5.10c**
Reeeeally (sic) Good, 5.10c**

Johnson Canyon is often overlooked at Indian Cove.  There are not many routes up this short canyon and normally you are either hanging closer to the campground or heading up the much more significant Rattlesnake Canyon.  However, if you are chasing down all the 5.9 recommended routes in Miramontes guide, Spanish Bayonet, 5.9**, will draw you up to perpendicular walls that form Ancient Kingdom.  When combined with routes on the Left Entrance Wall (Reeeeally (sic) Good, 5.10c**!), which you pass on the way in to Ancient Kingdom, you can get a full half day of climbing milked out of Johnson Canyon. 

Reeeeally Good is a fully bolted climb that eventually pulls an arete roof.  This is a great 5.10+ techy climb, although fully bolted, utilizes several closed corners, stemming and intricate face.  A diverse pitch.  The Rand, 5.10a*, is not worthy of the Miramontes' guide recommendation.  Its rock and climbing were relatively poor.  Both of these routes have fixed raps atop them, but The Rand's consists of faded nylon that needs replacing as of 2018.

Park at the Short Wall parking area which allows day parking.  Hike southeast towards an unremarkable canyon (photo) which is located west of Rattlesnake Canyon.  Head up the drainage looking for an obvious wall on the left with a multitude of roofs.   Reeeeally Good is the bolted darkish arete on the left and The Rand starts with a right leaning crack on a face to the right and then run out through a single bolt to a fixed rap you can see from below.  Gold Strike is a fully bolted face route found in the middle.

Routes Listed Left to Right when Facing this West Facing Wall

Reeeeally Good- 65’-5.10c**/ Probably not worth the two stars, but a worthy sport climb in the park.  The start is chossy, stemming up a flaky corner.  Mount a fin.  Then into the good varnished rock.  The first crux is finding the sequence to succumb the overhanging corner.  It is all there but techy for the grade.  The second crux is making the final move up the steep slab to the lower angled slab.  There was a leaver biner on this last bolt so someone thought it was too much to overcome.   I remember thinking this move was tougher than the crux below, both solid if not sandbagged at the grade.  Six clips and the route is taller than the guide has it but the bolts do protect the cruxes well.  Fixed rap at the top.   Dow

The Rand- 65’-5.10a*/ This route definitely does not deserve the star (recommendation) in Miramontes guide.  Not anything like most recommended routes at the grade.  Nothing of interest in the climbing and rock is chossy.  Start left of the left to right angled crack.  Maneuver along the crack which takes good horizontals eventually standing on it and starting up the run out chossy slab which is the crux to the lone bolt, then eases up some for run out to a fixed rap that needs work (2018).   Dow