Mount Sneffels

The wildflower displays on this hike are top notch...bring your camera! The South Ridge 3rd Class route on Sneffels starts from the pass. For the standard Lavender Couloir route, follow the trail down through several switchbacks until you see the obvious wide gully to the north. The Blaine Basin trail starts from this same trailhead and heads further east and up the valley to the east of Sneffels. This approach is used mainly for the technical north face routes however one can climb up to the Sneffels/Kismet saddle up very steep and loose talus (or snow in the right season) and meet with the standard Lavender Couloir route.

Route Options

STANDARD ROUTE: LAVENDER COULOIR (Class 2+)
This route can either be a very enjoyable climb or a miserable experience, depending on what time of year you go. I would HIGHLY recommend this route when the couloir is filled with good firm snow, as it was when I climbed it. The snow steepness is moderate at the worst and never exceeds 45 degrees. The steepest part is in the upper couloir. Scrambling around the V Notch likely increases to class 3 when snow is on the route. If snow is not to your liking, this route is one long talus hopping adventure, which isn't known for bad rockfall danger but it can happen especially on days where many people are doing this route. A helmet may be wanted on busy days. At the top of the couloir scramble left through the V Notch and continue the last hundred feet on some talus to the summit which appears abruptly. The summit area is surprisingly small and the views are among Colorado's best!

Lavender Couloir in blue

At Lavender Col

Down the col

Climbing the V Notch

SOUTHWEST RIDGE (Class 3)
Follow the trail to Blue Lakes Pass from the Yankee Boy TH and head right and climb the sustained class 3 ridge that leads right to the summit. Plan on at least a couple hours on this ridge as it is generally pretty loose and has decent exposure.

Climbing the SW ridge

Spine of the SW ridge

Gilpin Peak in the distance

SW ridge spires

SNAKE COULOIR (AI 2-3, Class 5.5)
A steep snow climb (greater than 45 degrees) and sections of even steeper ice which is then followed by about 100 feet of Class 5 climbing. This route is known for generally solid rock however loose "baby head" and "ball-bearing" rocks litter the route. It's best to descend the standard route to the Sneffels/Kismet saddle and then descend snow/talus/scree back to Blaine Basin and your starting point. This can be done in one long day from the TH, or several hours from a Blaine Basin camp.




SOUTH FACE "BIRTHDAY CHUTES"
This route makes for great snow climbs and ski descents on your choice of one of the great couloirs on the south face of Sneffels. Definitely not recommended in dry conditions due to rockfall potential.

Red Tape

Unlike in the recent past where severe red tape plagued the Yankee Boy Basin, there is no longer any permitting or major restrictions accessing Yankee Boy Basin, largely thanks to the local communities. Simply practice Leave No Trace principles and keep this beautiful pristine for all to enjoy.

When To Climb

During a normal year, the best climbing conditions for avoiding snow is mid-June through mid-September. It is important to keep in mind that this is prime thunderstorm season and everyone should be off summits and ridges by noon!

May through mid-June is the best time for snow climbs in the Lavender Couloir, Snake Couloir or the Birthday Chutes, however snow climbs can be safely done as early as March, depending on the avalanche and snow conditions. Be sure to keep a watch on the avalanche conditions! Snowshoes will likely be needed on any climb before May

Winter and late spring approaches extend required time considerably.

Sneffels can be climbed year-round, however in normal and heavy snowfall years, the road is typically closed at Camp Bird, and the east Dallas road access is closed at the forest boundary gate. Inquire with the Ouray County office about road information before proceeding but expect a considerable increase in distance required for winter climbs.

Camping

Yankee Boy Basin
Camping in Yankee Boy Basin isn't really allowed, plus it doesn't make much sense. There are many mining claims in the area which are all on private property. The owners don't mind people passing through but they generally do not want people camping there.

Dallas Creek
A number of good camping spots are available near the end of the road at the trailhead, and at Blue Lakes. These areas are very popular and fill up quickly during the summer, so get there early if you plan on a backpacking trip. The campsites in Blaine Basin are said to be excellent for beauty and solitude.

Since 2001, camping in Canyon Creek (the road/drainage you drive up to reach Yankee Boy Basin from Ouray) has been in designated sites only. There are 3 camp sites. Listed from lower down the road to the highest, they are Angle Creek, Thistledown, and Atlas. Atlas is near tree-line and only 2 miles or so from the highest Sneffels trailhead. Camping in these sites does cost $10 but isn't worth it in my opinion. These sites do not guarantee anything, don't have water or a table, however there is a fire ring and porta-potty facility.

For more developed camping for those with families or ones that need all the bells and whistles, go to the USFS Ampitheater Campground. It is close enough to provide good access to Mount Sneffels. This campground has hosts, tables, clean bathrooms, firewood and it's located only a few minutes from Ouray where you can satisfy your hunger before embarking on a climb.

Climbing History

Because of its striking appearance, Mt. Sneffels has lured climbers of all abilities since the late 19th century. Sneffels offers many goals and challenging routes varying in difficulty. Many routes have yet to be discovered on this beautiful and complex mountain. Are you one of those route pioneers? If so, Sneffels is the mountain for you.

Miners were likely among the first people to climb Mt. Sneffels and the neighboring peaks. The first recorded ascent was by the Hayden Survey team on September 10, 1874. The mountain was named by the surveyors after the Iceland volcano Snaefell, which figured prominently in the classic Jules Verne tale “Journey to the Center of the Earth.”

The next known ascent was made by contractor/prospector Alexander Taylor and Frederick Chapin, climbing the southeast couloir (now the standard route) in 1890. In the 1930s, the range was extensively climbed by the pioneering San Juan Mountaineers. The Sneffels north face was a primary objective. Different routes were established in 1931, 1932 and 1933. According to Dwight Lavender, some of the best climbing in the state was discovered during the development of these routes, and are every bit as difficult as other notable peaks in Colorado, including Coxcomb, Mt. Wilson, Capitol and Lizard Head.

The San Juan Mountaineers also pioneered climbs of the pinnacles surrounding Sneffels 1932-1934, but Purgatory Point, west of Sneffles, was not scaled officially until May 1958 by Henry L. and Frank McClintock, according to Trail and Timberline. David Lewis and Frank McClintock also scaled the northwest ridge that year.

The first winter ascent was executed in 1934 by Mel Griffiths and Gordon Williams. The approach was from Blaine Basin, then joining the standard route. This event was regarded as the advent of winter mountaineering in the San Juans. A notable accomplishment in later years was the winter 1983 ascent of the north face east couloir with a traverse onto the main face, followed by a direct climb. Kitty Calhoun and Lyle Dean pioneered the route, reporting sixty degree snow slope, mixed and varied rock pitches, and a bivouac about half way up.

Aknowledgements: Guide to the Colorado Mountains by Robert Ormes, 4th revised edition; The Majestic Fourteeners...Colorado's Highest by George Crouter; The San Juan Mountains-A Climbing and Hiking Guide by Robert F. Rosebrough. All excellent and informative reading!

Blue Lakes Basin

Not only are the Blue Lakes a great spot from which to climb the surrounding peaks of the Mount Sneffels Wilderness, but they are also situated in one of the most beautiful mountain paradises in the world! Check out the photos in this section for some real eye candy!

Blue Lakes

Mount Sneffels

Blue Lakes

Wildflowers

Yankee Boy Basin

The staging point for climbs of Mount Sneffels, Gilpin, Kismet, Cirque, Teakettle and Potosi Peaks, Yankee Boy Basin is also known for its old mining relics, spectacular jeep road and stunning wildflowers. Perhaps the greatest haven for Columbines, the Colorado State Flower, Yankee Boy Basin's reputation is well earned.

Mount Sneffels under spring snow

Teakettle Mountain

Gilpin Peak reflection

Gilpin Peak

The Summit View

I remember when I climbed Sneffels that the view from its summit was particularly fantastic with Dallas Peak across the valley and the rugged Sneffels Range surrounding you. One of the few peaks I am considering doing again!





Mount Sneffels Summit View

Mountain Conditions and Additional Information

14ers.com

Uncompahgre National Forest

Ouray Information

Ridgeway Information

Summitpost Ouray Ice Park Page

Gerry Roach's Colorado 14ers book is essentially the bible for climbing the Colorado 14ers.