Overview
Ortles-Cevedale group is situated in a famous italian natural park (called "STELVIO"), between Lombardia and Alto Adige region, north side of Italy. It was been theatre of spectacular battles during the first World War between Austrian and Italian soldiers (many weapons of that period are again on the glacier!). All the group is situated in Italy but is very near from Switzerland and Austria. The main villages of the region are Bormio, Santa Caterina Valfurva, Solda, Pejo, Rabbi. *To realize this page I have to say thank you to Mathias for his precious contribute!
Valleys of the group - NORTH SIDE (Alto Adige-Sud Tirol)Solda Valley
- From Bolzano/Bozen (Alto Adige/Sud Tirol) to Merano and then by local route follow the signals to Stelvio mountain. Before to arrive to Trafoi, turn left to Solda (Sulden)
- From Bormio through Stelvio pass, after the village of Trafoi turn left (1 hour and half)
- from Austria by car through highways via either Innsbruck or Bregenz to Landeck and then following Staatsstraße S 13 to the italian border at the Reschenpass / Passo di Resia . There the Vinschgau / Val Venosta valley starts that represents the northern border of Ortles-Cevedale group.
The village of Solda/Sulden is situated on the upper part of Val di Solda, surrounded by the highest peaks of Monte Ortles (Ortler) 3905 meters, Gran Zebrù (Koenigspitze) 3851 meters, Monte Zebrù 3735 meters and Cima di Solda 3387 meters.
From Solda/Sulden you have a lot of trekking/climbing possibilities:
- to Ortles, by chiarlift to K2 refuge, and from here to
Ref. Coston (reaching also from Trafoi), Ref. Payer (whre starts the Orrtles Normal Route).
- to Angelo Grande/Angelus Spitze and Cima Vertana direction, to reach the: ref. Serristori/Düsseldorfer Hütte (2721m), from where you have a beautiful overview over Ortles, Gran Zebrù and Zebrù.
- by cableway to ref. Milano (2581m), from where you can crossing to south to refuge Refuge Casati (glacier route) or to east to Refuge Nino Corsi/Zufallhutte 2264 meters (trekking route).
Martello valley
The Martello valley is reaching from Silandro village, situated on the route between Merano and Stelvio Pass. It is a paradise for ski alpinism in winter and spring and for trekkers and climbers in summer period. The valley is dominated by Monte Cevedale; anyway, many mountains are situated in this area:
- In the sub-group between valleys of Sulden/Solda and Martell/Martello:
Cima Vertana - Vertainspitze (3544 m)
Grande Angelo - Hoher Angelus (3521 m)
Cima di Lasa - Laaser Spitze (3304 m)
- In the sub-goup between the valleys of Martell/Martello and Ulten/Ultimo:
L'orecchia di Lepre - Hasenoehrl (3257 m)
Gioveretto - Zufrittspitze (3438 m)
Cima Sternai - Hintere Eggenspitze (3443 m)
Punta Beltovo / Schöntaufspitze (3325 m)
Valleys of the group - SOUTH SIDE (Lombardia)You can reach this area of the Ortles-Cevedale group from Milan 1) by car (local route "Vallassina" number 36 to Lecco and then to Colico (north side Como lake) and then to Morbegno, Sondrio, Tirano and finally Bormio (three hours) or 2) by train (from Milan Central station destination Tirano and then by bus to Bormio (4 hours) or directly by bus.
In the summer period you can arrive from north or east side of the group using routes through wonderful mountain pass like Stelvio (from merano/Meran). Situated, at 2700 meters of altitude (the highest mountain pass reaching by car), it requires 44 bends to go up and 15 to go down - open only from june to the end of october. Or mountain pass like Bernina - Forcola (open only from june to the end of october) pass to Livigno and then through Foscagno (2200 meters) to Bormio (3 hours).
You can reach Bormio also from Santa Maria (Munstertal - CH) by car following the signals to Giogo di Santa Maria (Pab Umbrail) on the border between Switzerland and Italy and then to Bormio (1 hour and half, it's open only from june to the end of october).
Look here the more info
Cedèc valley
From Santa Caterina Valfurva to Reguge "Ghiacciao ai Forni" by car (rules for private traffic in the month of August, bus service).
In this valley is situated the Refuge Pizzini Frattola 2700 metres, from where starts the normal route to Gran Zebrù (Koenigspitze) 3851 meters. If you continue on the same path that arrive to this refuge, you arrive to Refuge Casati, from where starts the Monte Cevedale 3769 meters Normal route.
Forni valley
From Santa Caterina Valfurva to Reguge "Ghiacciao ai Forni" by car (rules for private traffic in the month of August, bus service).
The only refuge situated in this valley is Branca-Martinelli, base for the Palon de la Mare 3703 meters and
Punta San Matteo 3678 meters Normal routes. On the route to San Matteo is situated also a bivouac, called Meneghello.
Zebrù valley
From Bormio on the route to Santa Caterina Valfurva follow the signals to Niblogo, where it is situated a parking area.
In the upper part of the valley is situated the Refugio Quinto Alpini and Guido Bertarelli 2877 meters (here another link), from where starts the normal route to Monte Zebrù 3735 meters.
Valleys of the group - EAST SIDE (Trentino) Pizzo Tresero 3594 meters
bivouac Seveso
South-side of the group (near Gavia pass):
Corno dei Tre Signori (3360 m)
Pejo valley
Branching out from Val di Sole by Ossana, Val di Peio stretches several kilometres into the Ortles Cevedale range, surrounded by well-known peaks like the Monte Vioz 3645 meters From Pejo started the normal route to this nice peak with, at only 20 minutes from the top, the refuge Mantova al Vioz, one of the highest of the group.
Anothe possibility for a great excursion or for a base of nice climbings (to Cevedale, Rosole, Palon de la Mare) is Rifugio Larcher al Cevedale.
Rabbi valley
Rabbi is a side valley of "Val di Sole" (Sun Valley) and is one of the more suggestive valleys of Trentino. It has two nice refuges, Silvio Dorigoni" alpine hut (2437 m.) and Stella Alpina" alpine hut near Corvo Lake (2425 m.).
Ultimo valley
With the ancient villages of S. Pancrazio (736 m), S. Valburga (1.190 m), S. Nicolò (1.256 m), S. Geltrude (1.519 m), and Proves 1.422 m, the Ultimo valley is on of more carcteristic of the area. Schwellalm skiing area, has a beatiful view over Ortles Cevedale peaks.
Informations about all this area:
Ghiacciai - The Ortles - Cevedale
A.P.T. Valli di Sole, Pejo e Rabbi
Viale Marconi, 7
38027 Malè, Italy
Tel +39 (0463) 901280
Fax: +39 (0463) 902911
E-Mail: pejo@valdisole.net
13 PEAKS TOUR
It's a tour that in few days without go down under 3000 meters lead you through 13 peaks of the region:
From Pizzo Tresero (m.3594) to Punta S.Matteo (m.3678)
- DAY 1 -
From Santa Canterina Valfurva (Valtellina - Italy) you go by car to Gavia pass. From here on the left side of the pass you walk through the normal route to Pizzo Tresero until Bivacco Seveso, and crossing South-West ridge on the snow (keep the left), you lead the Monte Tresero peak (m.3594 - easy passages on the rocks near the peak). Then through small rockes you lead Punta Pedranzini (m.3599): from where, without difficult passages, you arrive on Cima Dosegù (m.3560) From here you can admire the north side of Punta San Matteo! Then be carefull at the short ridge south-east (ledges to north). If the visibility is not good, keep the easy small rockes at south. To lead San Matteo (m.3678) walk on easy snow-ridge NW, (45° - use absolutely the crampons). From the peak you go down and through south side of Monte Giumella (m.3596 - easy to climb - few minutes from the path). Then go down to Colle degli Orsi (m.3304), in wich you find Bivacco Meneghello, that you can look when you are very near to it (ore 2.30-3, PD+).
From Punta Cadini (m.3524) - Monte Vioz (m.3645)
- DAY 2 -
From Bivacco Meneghello, after Col degli Orsi, you go up through West that leads on Punta Cadini (m.3524). Go down from here, you climb the easy rocks through Rocca di Santa Caterina South-ridge. You climb a small wall (few meters - II/IV level) and leaded "la Rocca" you arrive quickly on Cima di Peio (m.3549) from where, always through the ridge, you reach Punta Taviéla (m.3612). When you go down you have to climb the hardest passages on the rocks of the tour. From here to East, you arrive on Monte Vioz (m.3645), at few minutes to Refuge Mantova/Vioz (6-7-hours, AD).
From Monte Vioz (m.3645) to Monte Cevedale (m.3769)
- DAY 3 -
From refuge Refuge Mantova/Vioz you lead in 15 minutes the peak of Monte Vioz (m.3645), from where you go down to north, to pass of Vedretta Rossa (m.3405). From here you go up through the SW ridge of Palón de la Mare (m.3703), easy until the peak.
An other easy path the go down leads to Col de la Mare (m.3442), near Bivacco Colombo. You cross to Cima del M. Ròsole (m.3536) until the pass with the same name of the mountain (m.3502) from where, you arrive on the Monte Cevedale peak (m.3769), highest point of the tour. By Cevedale Normal route (look the description in the Cevedale page) you lead Refuge Casati (ore 4-5, PD).
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