For those familiar with British mountains, Tryfan is instantly recognisable. Its distinctive rocky, blade-like shape dominates the view from Nant Francon, from every direction it shows off nothing but steep crags and striking ridges. Although it is the smallest of the Welsh 3000ers it has some of the best mountaineering, scrambling and rock climbing anywhere in Britain, from every viewpoint it is clear that Tryfan is the perfect mountain.

It is said that it is impossible to climb this mountain without using ones hands, I don't know whether or not this is true, and who would want to try it? because its the quality of its climbing and scrambling that makes this mountain so special. Its rock faces are teeming with routes, from the relatively straightforward scrambles on the North Ridge to the plethora of climbs ranging from D into the Es on the buttresses and gullies of its East Face, it truly has something for everyone.

Most people ascend via the iconic North Ridge, a grade 1 scramble that takes the climber directly to Tryfans summit. Although the route is not hard, it can be modified to include harder passages, and when combined with an ascent of Bristly Ridge on Glyder Fachs northern slope, becomes part one of the finest routs in the whole of Wales. The route can get very busy and for those who prefer their mountains quieter, climbing early in the morning, or late on a summers evening is advisable to avoid the crowds.

Tryfan from the Carneddau (photo by tphubbard)

Adam and Eve

Sitting atop Tryfans spectacular summit are two angular monoliths, Adam and Eve. In 1798, while searching for botanical specimens, The Rev. Peter Williams alarmed his companion Rev William Bingley by leaping across from Adam to Eve, and began the long tradition of daring individuals jumping between the two. The leap confers the upon the jumper the "freedom of Tryfan", and is made that little bit more risky (and exciting) by the presence of a cliff, several hundred feet in height, dropping away below them.

Routes

Photo by jonburdon

Photo by Nanuls

Photo by mtnbiker converted

Photo by vancouver islander

Photo by Phillip Stasiw

Photo by BigLee

Photo by Nigel Braggins

Photo by Jans Man

This section summarises some of the most popular routes on Tryfan, for a more detailed description of the various routes available I recommend the following guidebooks:

Ridges of Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Scrambles in Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Climbers Club guidebook to Wales: Ogwen and the Carneddau
Rock Climbing in Snowdonia
The Long Routes: Mountaineering Rock Climbs in Snowdonia and the Lake District
Welsh Winter Climbs (Cicerone Guide) by Malcolm Campbell and Andy Newton

Scrambling

North Ridge (Grade 1)

The most popular scramble in the Glyders, it rises without deviation to Tryfans summit. The route is nicely varied with leisurely walking punctuated by steep sections generously furnished with holds, and of the various lines the best is as close to the crest of the ridge as possible.

South Ridge (Grade 1)

This is an easier, sunnier and shorter version of the North Ridge, subsequently it is also slightly less fun. However it does provide an excellent and varied link between Tryfan and Glyder Fach and is a suitable introduction to easy scrambling.

Tryfan Bach Approach (Grade 3)

This is an exciting approach to Tryfans East Face, consisting of exposed and sustained scrambling on the large, deep, polished holds of a slabby face followed by some varied scrambling up a blunt ridge.

Bastow Buttress Variant (Grade 2/3)

This route is a the most northerly of Tryfans east face scrambles, which starts on the Heather Terrace and takes the climber to the base of the best climbing on the North Ridge. The buttress consists of a series of discontinuous rock ribs separated by heather runnels.

Nor' Nor' Buttress Variant (Grade 3)

A similar route to the Bastow Buttress route, it utilises a gully the former tries to avoid. It mostly takes a series of discontinuous cracked ridges and care is needed at the start of the route as suspect blocks abound.

Nor' Nor' Gully (Grade 2/3)

This route is described by the guidebooks as "Unpleasant gully scrambling in a direct line from terrace to summit ridge", possibly because the gully contains large volumes of scree.

Nor' Nor' Groove (Grade 1/2)

This route consists of some quality scrambling up rock grooves while following a gully within a gully, avoiding the nasty obstacles found in the true Nor' Nor' Gully (above).

North Buttress Variant (grade 2)

The lower two thirds of the scramble consists of a series of discontinuous rock ribs, while the upper third goes around the flanks of the Terrace Wall crag. The route rises from right to left across the large broken face of the buttress, using runnels, ledges and rock grooves to avoid the difficulties usually associated with rock climbs in this area.

Little and North Gullies (Grade 1)

This route is an excellent introduction to gully scrambling, which climbs Tryfans Central Buttress, the largest of the mountains three on the East Face and is topped by Adam and Eve. The route uses utilises the deep runnel of Little Gully to break through the lower barriers of heather and steep buttresses, gaining the upper section of North Gully with few complications.

South Gully (Grade 2 or 3)

This route consists of interesting scrambling over short steps within a broad, largely scree filled gully that takes the climber straight to Tryfans summit.

South Buttress (Grade 3)

This often-exposed route follows an intermittent rib line along the left flank of the South Buttress. The route is nicely varied, and sharing many of the characteristics of East face rock climbs, it takes the climber over spiky ribs, heather runnels and spacious ledges.

Milestone Buttress Approach (Grade 3)

The Millstone Buttress is the most prominent and accessible of the crags on Tryfans west flank. Its blocky face beautifully shaped by cracks, chimneys and slabs is nicely free from vegetation and make an exhilarating approach to the North Ridge. This route is the easiest of those on the crag and rises in a diagonal line across an open, slabby buttress.

Milestone Gully (Grade 1/2)

This short approach gully provides 50m of superb scrambling of sustained but note excessive difficulty, and takes the climber onto the beginning of the Milestone Continuation route (below). It's worth noting that this route is nearly always wet.

Milestone Continuation (Grade 3)

An excellent continuation of the Milestone Buttress and Gully routs, which takes the climber onto the lower section of the North Ridge. The route consists of protectable scrambling up a series of cracks and ribs.

Wrinkled Tower (Grade 3)

Beyond the busy Milestone Buttress the West Face promises a great scrambling adventure, and it can be found in this route. This audacious solution to the Faulty Tower lies at the upper limit of the scrambling grades, though this and other obstacles can be adequately protected with rope and a few slings.

West Face Route (Grade 2 or 3)

This route is less technical than the Wrinkled Tower, and follows an interrupted line of slabs, ribs and towers up Tryfans West Face.

Climbing

Climbing on the North Ridge (Photo by Nanuls)

Second pitch of the Millstone Buttress (Photo by Waldo)

First pitch on the Grooved Arete (Photo by Dan Bailey)

First pitch of Nor Nor Groove (Photo by fdoctor)

Milestone Buttress (SH 663 602)

The Milestone Buttress is located just south of the North ridge, directly above the 10th milestone from Bangor on the A5 (from which the crag derives its name). The routs are described from right to left:

Pulpit Route and Ivey Chimney (Diff 290ft/87m)

This route follows a rib to the left of Little Gully (which provides a good decent), via a series of slabs and then a prominent chimney. The start is located at the foot of the rib beside the descent gully.

Direct Route (V Diff 250ft/75m)

This popular route follows the side of the Central Ridge, a large blunt rib that forms the left-hand boundary of the slabs. The start is found on a terrace at the foot of a diagonal crack, which runs up the slab to the right of the Central Ridge. Due to its popularity parts of this route have become very polished.

Superdirect (HVS 280ft/84m)

A very enjoyable route that takes the crest of the Central Ridge, followed by an exhilarating end on the Central Block. The start is at the foot of the ridge below a thin slanting crack.

The Wrinkled Retainer (E5 100ft/30m)

Described as a line of purity, beauty, and no little difficulty. No aid is required for the first 25ft/8m, however it becomes very challenging soon after. The start is at the foot of the Central Block next to the stump of an old oak tree that was felled to provide access for this route.

Wall Climb/Soap Gut/Chimney Route (HS 210ft/64m)

A fine hybrid providing fun and interesting climbing from the base to the top of the crag. The start is located 30ft/9m right of the drystone wall at the foot of the crag.

The East Face (SH 665 594)

This is the major climbing area on Tryfan and is centre around three buttresses, whose tops denote the three summits of the mountain. The routs are described from right to left:

Grooved Arête (HV Diff 810ft/244m)

This route, and deservedly so, has the reputation of being one of the finest of its standard anywhere in Wales, and an early start is recommended to avoid queuing at the start. The route can be located at the on the Heather Terrace on the right hand side of the North Buttress at the foot of a groove in a little rib with 'GA' scratched onto the rock.

North Buttress by the Terrace Wall Variant (V Diff 645ft/196m)

The route takes the left-hand side of the North Buttress, before weaving its way up the Terrace Wall. The start can be found below a deep groove just right of the North Gully.

Belle Vue Bastion (VS 160ft/48m)

The best route on Terrace Wall with many fine situations, and starts at the right end of the ledge running along the foot of the wall.

First Pinnacle Rib (V Diff 635ft/195m)

A fine and varied route, probably the best on the Central Buttress, which takes the middle of three broad ribs between South Gully and a large grassy bay to the right. The start is around 30ft/9m right of the South Gully where '1 PR' is scratched into the rock.

Munich Climb (VS 275ft/83m)

A steep route, which offers good protection and requires competent rope work and a steady leader. The start is halfway up the South gully on the left wall, opposite and just below the level of the pinnacle of First Pinnacle Rib; beneath a triangular grass ledge with a block sitting in it.

South Buttress by the Gashed Crag (V Diff 525ft/160m)

Described as 'A classic route with a masochistic crux!'. the start is around 20yd/18m left of the South Gully at a groove directly below The Gash (a huge roof some 20ft/61m up the buttress.

Winter Climbs

North Ridge Winter Ascent (Photo by BigLee)

Due to Tryfans steep, slim and elegant shape it lacks the necessary catchment area to provide either the drainage or the spindrift required for quality winter climbing. However, occasionally its East Face does accumulate, in its superficially promising gullies, enough snow and ice for something that resembles a winter climb.

North Ridge (Grade II 600m)

The difficulties of this route increase gradually as the climber gets higher, however nearly all difficulties are avoidable with the right route choice. The upper section can be very icy, and if the crest of the ridge is followed religiously it can be both exposed and awkward.

The West Face

Although the best routs on Tryfan are all found on its East Face, just to the right of the Milestone Buttress there are several short ice routs located within a region of descent gullies that are worthy of mention.

Way off Route (Grade II/III 45m)

The left-hand branch goes into a deep cleft beneath some hanging icicles on the next route but escapes easily.

Direissma (Grade V 10m)

Climb the great hanging icicle, providing it is structurally sound of course.

Down Climb (Grade II 50m)

The right-hand gully is straightforward ice and snow.

The descent from these three routes can prove problematic and is best achieved by an abseil, or by climbing down Down Climb! If neither option appeals then a long traverse can be made towards the North Ridge

Another 100m to the right of this area is an ice smear that runs down some slabs just to the left of a faint gully, and when conditions are right holds the following climb:

Trivial Pursuit (Grade II 45m)

Follows the ice smear and disappears rightwards into the gully. A descent can be made via some heather ledges to the south.

Dead End Slab (Grade III 45m)

Another 100m up the right is a rocky rib with a couple of trees growing on it. Just to the right of it and before the huge gully is a large expanse of iced slab which offers a good pitch. Descent however can be difficult, and it is best to carry on climbing up easy ledges to the right to gain another rock rib which is crossed into the huge gully.

The East Face

No Gully (Grade I 100m)

The first shallow gully along the Heather Terrace is straightforward and undistinguished. A little to the south, the first steep rocks rise above the Terrace as a twin buttress beyond which is a deep gully:

Bastow Gully (Grade I 150m)

The start of this route lies between square-cut walls and the gully is fairly uniform-angled although the boulder-strewn nature of its bed cab cause difficulty when the snow cover is slight. It gains the North Ridge just below the North Tower and makes an excellent natural continuation of the route.

Tryfans North Summit (Photo byBigLee)

Nor' Nor' Gully (Grade II 150m)

This route is some 50m further south than the Bastow Gully just beyond another prominent buttress. the route follows a steep-sided corridor with three short pitches in the lower section.

Green Gully (Grade III/IV 150m)

The route appears relatively easy to begin with, however soon becomes more serious with a series of four short chimneys, followed by an exit over several jammed boulders. The start is around six metres left of the start of the Grooved Arête climb, which is marked with a large ‘GA’, scratched into the rock.

Deffing Out the Ben (Grade IV 150m)

The route follows a logical line up the North Buttress, following a similar route the climb that starts at the same spot. In all respects it is a very enjoyable route, however exceptional conditions are needed for a complete ascent.

North Gully (Grade II/III 250m)

Although the route can be quite hard in marginal conditions, in its lower reaches it probably offers the best winter route on Tryfan. The start can be found at the base of this obvious gully and follows a direct route to the summit.

Little Gully (Grade I/II 250m)

The route takes what is probably the easiest way up the main section of the face, and this offspring starts 10 metres to the left of North Gully before joining it above the main difficulties.

South Gully (Grade III 200m)

This route follows the last gully that defines the left edge of Central Buttress. The climbing is quite good when there is reasonable snow, but when conditions are marginal, skirting boulders and chockstone can be difficult.

Getting There

Tryfans West Face (Photo by JoeHarris)

Conveniently, Tryfan is located very close to the A5 meaning that there isn't a long approach to the bottom of the mountain making it probably the most accessible mountain in Snowdonia.

If approaching from the north or west, e.g. from Liverpool or Hollyhead, turn off the A55 and onto the A5 at the large junction (SH 593 694) that sign posts for Bethesda
and follow the road until Llyn Ogwen where parking is available.

If coming from the east, take the A5 through Bettws y Coed (SH798 599) and Capel Curig (SH 719 580) which will take you directly to the base of the mountain.

If driving from the south, take the A470 through Blaenau Ffestiniog (SH 700 458) to Bettws y Coed, and turn off onto the A5 towards Bethesda which will take you the same way as if coming from the east.

There is plenty of parking along the A5 near Tryfan, some of which you have to pay for, some of which you don't. My advice is to never bother with the official car parks and just park along the roadside. There is a wide 'pavement' type verge on the southern side of the road that can easily accommodate the width of a car or minibus, and is completely free and never full (even on bank holidays). It also allows you to park even closer to the base of the mountain and the start of the path.

Red Tape

Tryfan from Glyder Fach

No red tape at all, just park the car and walk. Although unlikely it is worth checking the countryside access map provided by the Countryside Council for Wales (CCW) regarding whether or not any restrictions on movement in the area are in place.

Countryside Access Map

When To Climb

Tryfan can be climbed at anytime of the year via the North or South Ridges, however in poor conditions some routs are best avoided particularly if visibility makes route finding difficult. Of course this all depends on ones ability as a mountaineer/climber, and what might be comfortable for some may seem daunting for others. It is worth noting that some areas of rock, particularly those that have been heavily abraded, can become very greasy when wet.

If your lucky enough to climb the mountain in winter conditions then an ice axe (or ice axes on the harder routes), crampons, a helmet, a rope and a descent winter rack (if going for a more serious route) are all essential.

Camping and Accommodation

There is plenty of camping in close proximity to Tryfan: Gwern Gof Uchaf Campsite, Gwern Gôf Isaf Campsite and bunkhouse and Garth Farm Campsite can all be found nearby just to the east.

There are also a number of YHA hostels in the area, the nearest of which is Idwal Cottage, a short walk from the base of the mountain. The Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre in Capel Curig also has a bunk house, and has its own indoor climbing wall if you still feel energetic after your day on the mountain. Also the nearby towns of Capel Curig, Bettws y Coed and Bethesda all have various hotels, hostels, B&Bs and campsites.

Maps

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Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 115 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

Harvey Map Services 1:25k Snowdonia: Snowdonia The Glyderau and the Carneddau

Harvey Map Services/BMC 1: 40k British Mountain Map: Snowdonia

Road Maps

OS Tour Map 10 North and Mid Wales

Guidebooks

Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) by Merfyn Williams
The Mountains of England and Wales: Volume 1 Wales (Cicerone Guide) by John and Anne Nuttall
Hillwalking in Wales Vol 1 (Cicerone Guide) by Peter Hermon
Hillwalking in Wales Vol 2(Cicerone Guide) by Peter Hermon
Hillwalking in Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Ridges of Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Scrambles in Snowdonia (Cicerone Guide) by Steve Ashton
Climbers Club guide book for Ogwen and the Carneddau
Climbers Club guide book for Llanberis
Rock Climbing in Snowdonia
The Long Routes: Mountaineering Rock Climbs in Snowdonia and the Lake District
Welsh Winter Climbs (Cicerone Guide) by Malcolm Campbell and Andy Newton

Images



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