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32893 Hits
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88.19% Score
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26 Votes
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Introduction
This page lists peaks in Colorado which are known to require 5th class climbing to reach the summit. A YDS rating is given for the easiest route to each summit. Also included is a list of peaks which, based on topo maps or photos, appear that they could require 5th class climbing.
The lists include ranked and unranked peaks that might be of interest (for Colorado, ranked peaks typically refer to peaks with 300 feet of "interpolated prominence"). Deciding which unranked peaks to include is very subjective. There are certainly many boulders/small peaks throughout the state that require 5th class climbing to top out on; in general, those are beyond the spirit of this list and this includes summit "boulders" sitting atop a wide summit plateaus. Those peaks listed in gray are unranked.
Another thing to note about this list is that the YDS credentials used to determine a 5th class peak is based on the Colorado version of the YDS rating system. In all the inter-mountain west states, a route with a certain YDS rating is a much easier climb than a route with the same YDS rating in Washington or California. Many climbers in Colorado like to call this the "West Coast Bias" however it should be noted the system was created in Joshua Tree, California therefore I am a believer that the so called west coast bias is the correct system. Ratings in Colorado and nearby states are easier making many more peaks suitable for this list that wouldn't be considered 5th class in the Sierras or the Cascades.
To give a quick example, many climbers who call the Cascades their stomping grounds would consider the standard route on Jagged Mountain 3rd class. Fred Beckey is one person who immediately comes to mind. It would also be important to note that I refrained from omitting peaks on this list and "sandbagging" the listed ratings....with some reluctance. You can thank Brian Kalet for providing many of the peaks on this list.
Comments, suggestions, and additional information about these and other peaks are welcome.
5th Class Peaks
| Photo | Name | Elevation | Rating | Quadrangle |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 | "Sunlight Spire" | 13,995 | 5.10d | Storm King Peak |
 | Jagged Mountain | 13,824 | 5.0-5.2 | Storm King Peak |
 | Teakettle Mountain | 13,819 | 5.3 | Mount Sneffels |
 | Dallas Peak | 13,809 | 5.3 | Telluride |
 | Peak Fifteen | 13,700 | 5.0-5.2 | Snowdon Peak |
 | Coxcomb Peak | 13,656 | 5.3 | Wetterhorn Peak |
 | "Noname Needle" - LOJ | 13,620 | 5.6 | Storm King Peak |
 | "Coffeepot" | 13,568 | 5.0-5.2 | Telluride |
 | Needle Ridge - LOJ | 13,500 | >5.2 | Storm King Peak |
 | Peak Sixteen - LOJ | 13,500 | 5.2 | Snowdon Peak |
 | Gray Needle - LOJ | 13,430 | >5.2 | Storm King Peak |
 | The Index - LOJ | 13,420 | 5.9 | Snowdon Peak |
 | Twin Thumbs (North) - LOJ | 13,420 | 5.0-5.2 | Storm King Peak |
 | South Lookout Peak | 13,380 | 5.0 | Ophir |
 | Little Finger - LOJ | 13,220 | 5.7 | Snowdon Peak |
 | "Dicker's Peck" - LOJ | 13,140 | 5.5 | Monarch Lake |
 | Lizard Head | 13,113 | 5.8+ | Mount Wilson |
 | Saint Sophia Ridge - LOJ | 13,060 | 5.7 | Telluride |
 | Chimneys of Treasure Mountain - LOJ | 12,820 | >5.6 | Snowmass Mtn |
 | Point 12740 - LOJ | 12,740 | 5.0 | Rito Alto Peak |
 | "Peak T" - LOJ | 12,660 | 5.5 | Vail East |
 | The Sharkstooth | 12,630 | 5.4 | Mc Henrys Peak |
 | Hayden Spire - LOJ | 12,500 | 5.0-5.2 | Mc Henrys Peak |
 | Twin Peaks - LOJ | 12,461 | 5.8-5.9 | Halfmoon Pass |
 | "McReynolds Peak" | 12,450 | 5.9 | Pikes Peak |
 | Turret Ridge - LOJ | 12,260 | 5.8-5.9 | Courthouse Mountain |
 | The Castles (West) - LOJ | 12,180 | >5.8 | West Elk Peak |
 | Devils Thumb | 12,100 | 5.4 | East Portal |
 | Achonee Tower - LOJ | 12,060 | 5.0 | Monarch Lake |
 | The Castles (East) - LOJ | 12,020 | >5.8 | West Elk Peak |
 | "Petit Grepon" | 12,000 | 5.6 | Mc Henrys Peak |
 | Wheeler Monument - LOJ | 11,976 | >5.9 | Halfmoon Pass |
 | Chimney Rock | 11,781 | 5.6 | Courthouse Mountain |
 | Squaretop Mountain - LOJ | 11,775 | 5.7 | Blackhead Peak |
 | Point 11460 | 11,460 | 5.0-5.2 | Mc Curdy Mountain |
 | Point 11180 | 11,180 | 5.3 | Mc Curdy Mountain |
 | Point 10926 - LOJ | 10,926 | 5.4 | Windy Peak |
 | Rabbit Ears Peak | 10,654 | >5.2 | Rabbit Ears Peak |
 | Chimney Rock - LOJ | 10,146 | >5.4 | Whiteley Peak |
 | Point 10093 - LOJ | 10,093 | 5.2 | Glentivar |
 | Mount Vigil | 10,073 | 5.3 | Mount Big Chief |
 | Castle Mountain - LOJ | 10,066 | 5.2 | Witcher Mountain |
 | The Castle | 9,691 | 5.4 | Windy Peak |
 | Sheeprock | 8,877 | 5.5 | Cheesman Lake |
 | Dog Head - LOJ | 8,820 | 5.2 | Wrights Reservoir |
 | Twin Owls | 8,789 | 5.0 | Estes Park |
 | "The Pear" - LOJ | 8,780 | 5.0 | Estes Park |
 | Fin City - LOJ | 8,780 | 5.0 | Estes Park |
 | The Finger - LOJ | 8,740 | 5.8 | Panorama Peak |
 | South Sheeprock - LOJ | 8,740 | 5.6 | Cheesman Lake |
 | Window Rock - LOJ | 8,540 | 5.0 | Estes Park |
 | The Thumb - LOJ | 8,500 | 5.4 | Longs Peak |
 | Noel's Knob - LOJ | 8,460 | 5.0 | Glen Haven |
| No Photo | The Needle - LOJ | 8,420 | 5.4 | Longs Peak |
 | Point 8,340 - LOJ | 8,340 | 5.6 | Red Feather Lakes |
 | "Big Rock Candy Mountain" | 8,285 | 5.7 | Cheesman Lake |
 | "Bishop Rock" - LOJ | 8,260 | 5.5 | Pine |
 | South Noddle Head | 8,260 | 5.2 | Douglas |
 | Crosier Dome - LOJ | 8,260 | 5.2 | Glen Haven |
 | North Noddle Head | 8,224 | 5.8 | Douglas |
 | "Tick Dome" | 8,220 | 5.7 | Cheesman Lake |
 | Point 8,220 - LOJ | 8,220 | 5.6 | Red Feather Lakes |
 | Raleigh Peak - LOJ | 8,183 | 5.4 | Platte Canyon |
 | "Coral Rock" - LOJ | 8,100 | 5.11 | Rustic |
 | "The Bishop" - LOJ | 8,100 | 5.8 | Pine |
 | "South Green Mountain" | 8,073 | 5.0-5.2 | Eldorado Springs |
 | Chair Rocks - LOJ | 8,020 | 5.10a | Platte Canyon |
 | Cheesman Mountain - LOJ | 7,946 | 5.9 | Cheesman Lake |
 | "Yertle Mountain" - LOJ | 7,924 | 5.3 | Jefferson |
 | Needle Rock - LOJ | 7,874 | 5.7 | Crawford |
 | Curecanti Needle - LOJ | 7,856 | 5.7 | Curecanti Needle |
 | "Horse's Head" - LOJ | 7,780 | 5.4 | Drake |
| No Image | Home Rock - LOJ | 7,732 | 5.6 | Cherokee Park |
 | Fish Creek Rock - LOJ | 7,728 | 5.3 | Cherokee Park |
 | "Willy B" - LOJ | 7,460 | 5.7 | Eldorado Springs |
 | Haystack Rock - LOJ | 7,438 | 5.5 | Cherokee Park |
 | First Flatiron | 7,300 | 5.2 | Eldorado Springs |
 | Point 7071 - LOJ | 7,071 | >5.9 | Canyon of Lodore South |
 | Point 6799 - LOJ | 6,799 | >5.8 | Canyon of Lodore South |
 | Gate Rock | 6,740 | 5.0 | Cascade |
 | Ship Rock - LOJ | 6,660 | 5.4 | Morrison |
 | South Gateway Rock | 6,660 | 5.1 | Cascade |
 | Creation Rock - LOJ | 6,580 | 5.4 | Morrison |
 | Montezuma's Tower | 6,540 | 5.7 | Cascade |
 | "Outlaw Peak" | 6,489 | 5.4 | Canyon of Lodore South |
 | Squaw - LOJ | 6,410 | >5.8 | Towaoc |
| No Image | Point 6300 - LOJ | 6,300 | >5.8 | Canyon of Lodore South |
 | Chimney Rock - LOJ | 6,110 | >5.6 | Tanner Mesa |
 | Steamboat Rock - LOJ | 6,074 | >5.6 | Canyon of Lodore South |
 | Independence Monument | 5,739 | 5.8+ | Colorado National Monument |
Other Possibilities
| Name | Elevation | Rating | Quadrangle |
|---|---|---|---|
| "West Eolus" | 13,740 | Mountain View Crest | |
| "Pierre Lakes Fin" | 13,080 | Capitol Peak | |
| Point 11212 | 11,212 | Courthouse Mountain | |
| Elephant Head Rock | 9,963 | Elephant Head Rock | |
| Mount Buckhorn | 8,380 | Manitou Springs | |
| Noddle Heads | 8,260 | Deckers | |
| Finger Rock | 8,220 | Yampa | |
| Big Island | 7,915 | Grizzly Ridge | |
| Chimney Rock | 7,903 | Chimney Rock | |
| Point 7860 | 7,860 | Snyder Flats | |
| East Toe | 7,765 | Mariano Wash East | |
| Island Peaks | 7,631 | Grizzly Ridge | |
| West Toe | 7,325 | Mariano Wash East | |
| Mountain Sheep Point | 7,105 | Secret Canyon | |
| Point 6719 | 6,719 | Gateway | |
| Point 6716 | 6,716 | Gateway | |
| Point 6350 | 6,350 | Gateway | |
| Cleopatras Couch | 5,780 | Tanks Peak | |
| Point 5700 | 5,700 | Sieber Canyon |
35 Mountains & Rocks
RyanS - Apr 23, 2006 3:42 am - Voted 10/10
found another potentialMountain Sheep Point, a ranked peak in the Dolores Canyon.
John Prater - Oct 6, 2006 5:04 am - Hasn't voted
List Notes2007-8-13 - moved Needle Rock from list of possibilities to 5th class list - Jeremy Hakes reports that easiest route is 5.2 based on summit register entries - changed Cheesman Mountain rating to 5.9 per Jeremy Hakes - added link to Brian Kalet's new "Coffeepot" page - set rating of Saint Sophia Ridge to 5.7 per Aaron Ihinger and Jamie Princo 2006-10-05 - updated "Outlaw Peak" (name, rating, SP link) - removed Point 6100 on Cameo quad from list of possibilities - found route no harder than 3rd class, mostly easier - removed Point 7182 on Jacks Canyon quad from list of possibilities - found route no harder than 3rd class
John Kirk - Apr 6, 2008 6:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Dog HeadEasiest route - 5.2 http://www.listsofjohn.com/PeakStats/Climbers.php?Id=4313
Matt Lemke - Nov 9, 2013 11:20 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Dog HeadAdded
John Kirk - Apr 7, 2008 12:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Squaw & PapooseHaven't done these, but they're definitely in the 5th class category. Squaw Papoose
Matt Lemke - Nov 10, 2013 2:57 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Squaw & PapooseAdded
Jeremy Hakes - Jul 2, 2008 12:07 pm - Voted 10/10
Wheeler MonumentDefinitely 5th class, likely harder than .10+, as the "easiest" line looks like a west facing arete with hard climbing above it. http://www.listsofjohn.com/PeakStats/Climbers.php?Id=1777
Matt Lemke - Nov 10, 2013 2:42 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Wheeler MonumentAdded
CShaw - Aug 13, 2012 6:47 pm - Hasn't voted
More suggestions...Twin Thumbs (South): Easy class 3 with one boulder move to touch the top. "Gore Thumb": Easy class 3 -- I expected more.
Matt Lemke - Nov 10, 2013 2:56 am - Hasn't voted
Re: More suggestions...Thanks...I removed them
Brian Kalet - Nov 20, 2013 12:21 pm - Hasn't voted
Northeast Crestonehttp://listsofjohn.com/PeakStats/Climbers.php?Id=18
Matt Lemke - Nov 20, 2013 1:20 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Northeast CrestoneI have heard many people say NE Crestone is 4th class. few people usually rope up for it. Have you done it?
Brian Kalet - Nov 20, 2013 4:30 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Northeast CrestoneYes, I've climbed Northeast Crestone. It can be tough to differentiate between 4th class & 5.0. I believe Lou Dawson's guidebook calls it 4th class, so maybe it should be left off the list. How about Peak Sixteen?
Matt Lemke - Nov 20, 2013 4:45 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Northeast CrestoneAh Peak Sixteen should be on the list...good catch there. I have a few friends who have done NE crestone and said it was only 4th class. I'll add Peak Sixteen though
Brian Kalet - Nov 20, 2013 5:06 pm - Hasn't voted
Whitney Peakhttp://www.summitpost.org/whitney-peak/154688
Matt Lemke - Nov 22, 2013 3:12 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Whitney PeakHmmm I always thought the rock on top of Whitney was more of a bouldering problem. When I think of 5th class climbing I think of roped pitches. What do you think? I'll put it in if you think it really warrants it but I know a couple guys who just leaped up and onto the top of it. BTW, what about the towers at Garden of the Gods? I believe there are 5th class towers there. I'll look but if you know of any let me know!
Brian Kalet - Nov 22, 2013 12:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Whitney PeakI've climbed many of the peaks on this list sans rope: Jagged, Teakettle, Peak Fifteen, Coffeepot, Peak Sixteen, Rabbit Ears, PT 10093, The Castle, South Sheeprock & Raleigh, so I'm not sure if roped pitches should be a criterion for list inclusion. So, I would add Whitney.
Brian Kalet - Nov 22, 2013 12:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Garden of The GodsGate Rock "South Gateway Rock" "Montezuma's Tower"
Matt Lemke - Dec 9, 2013 12:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Garden of The GodsAdded all 3...Thanks!
Brian Kalet - Dec 9, 2013 12:26 pm - Hasn't voted
More 5th Class PeaksSilver Plume Mountain "Achonee Tower" "Tuckaway Mountain" Castle Mountain