5th Class Colorado Peaks

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Colorado, United States, North America
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5th Class Colorado Peaks
Created On: Feb 13, 2006
Last Edited On: Jan 29, 2014

Introduction

This page lists peaks in Colorado which are known to require 5th class climbing to reach the summit. A YDS rating is given for the easiest route to each summit. Also included is a list of peaks which, based on topo maps or photos, appear that they could require 5th class climbing.

The lists include ranked and unranked peaks that might be of interest (for Colorado, ranked peaks typically refer to peaks with 300 feet of "interpolated prominence"). Deciding which unranked peaks to include is very subjective. There are certainly many boulders/small peaks throughout the state that require 5th class climbing to top out on; in general, those are beyond the spirit of this list and this includes summit "boulders" sitting atop a wide summit plateaus. Those peaks listed in gray are unranked.

Another thing to note about this list is that the YDS credentials used to determine a 5th class peak is based on the Colorado version of the YDS rating system. In all the inter-mountain west states, a route with a certain YDS rating is a much easier climb than a route with the same YDS rating in Washington or California. Many climbers in Colorado like to call this the "West Coast Bias" however it should be noted the system was created in Joshua Tree, California therefore I am a believer that the so called west coast bias is the correct system. Ratings in Colorado and nearby states are easier making many more peaks suitable for this list that wouldn't be considered 5th class in the Sierras or the Cascades.

To give a quick example, many climbers who call the Cascades their stomping grounds would consider the standard route on Jagged Mountain 3rd class. Fred Beckey is one person who immediately comes to mind. It would also be important to note that I refrained from omitting peaks on this list and "sandbagging" the listed ratings....with some reluctance. You can thank Brian Kalet for providing many of the peaks on this list.

Comments, suggestions, and additional information about these and other peaks are welcome.

5th Class Peaks

PhotoNameElevationRatingQuadrangle
Resting on the top of the Spire
"Sunlight Spire"13,9955.10dStorm King Peak
Jagged Mountain
Jagged Mountain13,8245.0-5.2Storm King Peak
Teakettle
Teakettle Mountain13,8195.3Mount Sneffels
Dallas Peak as seen from the...
Dallas Peak13,8095.3Telluride
Peak Fifteen and Turret Peak
Peak Fifteen13,7005.0-5.2Snowdon Peak
Coxcomb Peak from Wetterhorn...
Coxcomb Peak13,6565.3Wetterhorn Peak
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"Noname Needle" - LOJ13,6205.6Storm King Peak
Coffee Pot
"Coffeepot"13,5685.0-5.2Telluride
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Needle Ridge - LOJ13,500>5.2Storm King Peak
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Peak Sixteen - LOJ13,5005.2Snowdon Peak
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Gray Needle - LOJ13,430>5.2Storm King Peak
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The Index - LOJ13,4205.9Snowdon Peak
Twin Thumbs
Twin Thumbs (North) - LOJ13,4205.0-5.2Storm King Peak
The north face of South...
South Lookout Peak13,3805.0Ophir
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Little Finger - LOJ13,2205.7Snowdon Peak
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"Dicker's Peck" - LOJ13,1405.5Monarch Lake
7 Mar 2004 - Lizard Head from...
Lizard Head13,1135.8+Mount Wilson
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Saint Sophia Ridge - LOJ13,0605.7Telluride
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Chimneys of Treasure Mountain - LOJ12,820>5.6Snowmass Mtn
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Point 12740 - LOJ12,7405.0Rito Alto Peak
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"Peak T" - LOJ12,6605.5Vail East
Alpenglow on The Sharkstooth
The Sharkstooth12,6305.4Mc Henrys Peak
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Hayden Spire - LOJ12,5005.0-5.2Mc Henrys Peak
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Twin Peaks - LOJ12,4615.8-5.9Halfmoon Pass
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"McReynolds Peak"12,4505.9Pikes Peak
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Turret Ridge - LOJ12,2605.8-5.9Courthouse Mountain
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The Castles (West) - LOJ12,180>5.8West Elk Peak
Devil's Thumb from Devil's...
Devils Thumb12,1005.4East Portal
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Achonee Tower - LOJ12,0605.0Monarch Lake
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The Castles (East) - LOJ12,020>5.8West Elk Peak
Sunrise on Petit Grepon
"Petit Grepon"12,0005.6Mc Henrys Peak
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Wheeler Monument - LOJ11,976>5.9Halfmoon Pass
Chimney Rock
Chimney Rock11,7815.6Courthouse Mountain
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Squaretop Mountain - LOJ11,7755.7Blackhead Peak
The unexplored Point 11,379...
Point 1146011,4605.0-5.2Mc Curdy Mountain
The prominent McCurdy Tower....
Point 1118011,1805.3Mc Curdy Mountain
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Point 10926 - LOJ10,9265.4Windy Peak
Rabbit Ears Peak from the...
Rabbit Ears Peak10,654>5.2Rabbit Ears Peak
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Chimney Rock - LOJ10,146>5.4Whiteley Peak
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Point 10093 - LOJ10,0935.2Glentivar
The west face of Vigil Peak...
Mount Vigil10,0735.3Mount Big Chief
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Castle Mountain - LOJ10,0665.2Witcher Mountain
The Castle from the...
The Castle9,6915.4Windy Peak
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Sheeprock8,8775.5Cheesman Lake
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Dog Head - LOJ8,8205.2Wrights Reservoir 
The Twin Owls
Twin Owls8,7895.0Estes Park
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"The Pear" - LOJ8,7805.0Estes Park
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Fin City - LOJ8,7805.0Estes Park
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The Finger - LOJ8,7405.8Panorama Peak
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South Sheeprock - LOJ8,7405.6Cheesman Lake
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Window Rock - LOJ8,5405.0Estes Park
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The Thumb - LOJ8,5005.4Longs Peak
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Noel's Knob - LOJ8,4605.0Glen Haven
No PhotoThe Needle - LOJ8,4205.4Longs Peak
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Point 8,340 - LOJ8,3405.6Red Feather Lakes
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"Big Rock Candy Mountain"8,2855.7Cheesman Lake
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"Bishop Rock" - LOJ8,2605.5Pine
South Noddle Head
South Noddle Head8,2605.2Douglas
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Crosier Dome - LOJ8,2605.2Glen Haven
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North Noddle Head8,2245.8Douglas
Tick Dome from the SE
"Tick Dome"8,2205.7Cheesman Lake
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Point 8,220 - LOJ8,2205.6Red Feather Lakes
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Raleigh Peak - LOJ8,1835.4Platte Canyon
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"Coral Rock" - LOJ8,1005.11Rustic
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"The Bishop" - LOJ8,1005.8Pine
Typical busy Saturday at...
"South Green Mountain"8,0735.0-5.2Eldorado Springs
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Chair Rocks - LOJ8,0205.10aPlatte Canyon
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Cheesman Mountain - LOJ7,9465.9Cheesman Lake
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"Yertle Mountain" - LOJ7,9245.3Jefferson
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Needle Rock - LOJ7,8745.7Crawford
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Curecanti Needle - LOJ7,8565.7Curecanti Needle
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"Horse's Head" - LOJ7,7805.4Drake
No ImageHome Rock - LOJ7,7325.6Cherokee Park
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Fish Creek Rock - LOJ7,7285.3Cherokee Park
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"Willy B" - LOJ7,4605.7Eldorado Springs
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Haystack Rock - LOJ7,4385.5Cherokee Park
Sunset on the First
First Flatiron7,3005.2Eldorado Springs
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Point 7071 - LOJ7,071>5.9Canyon of Lodore South
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Point 6799 - LOJ6,799>5.8Canyon of Lodore South
Kissing Camels Close-Up
Gate Rock6,7405.0Cascade
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Ship Rock - LOJ6,6605.4Morrison
South Gateway Rock
South Gateway Rock6,6605.1Cascade
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Creation Rock - LOJ6,5805.4Morrison
Montezuma's Tower
Montezuma's Tower6,5405.7Cascade
Outlaw Peak
"Outlaw Peak"6,4895.4Canyon of Lodore South
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Squaw - LOJ6,410>5.8Towaoc
No ImagePoint 6300 - LOJ6,300>5.8Canyon of Lodore South
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Chimney Rock - LOJ6,110>5.6Tanner Mesa
Steamboat Rock by Moonlight
Steamboat Rock - LOJ6,074>5.6Canyon of Lodore South
Independence Monument, as...
Independence Monument5,7395.8+Colorado National Monument

Other Possibilities

NameElevationRatingQuadrangle
"West Eolus"13,740 Mountain View Crest
"Pierre Lakes Fin"13,080 Capitol Peak
Point 1121211,212 Courthouse Mountain
Elephant Head Rock9,963 Elephant Head Rock
Mount Buckhorn8,380 Manitou Springs
Noddle Heads8,260 Deckers
Finger Rock8,220 Yampa
Big Island7,915 Grizzly Ridge
Chimney Rock7,903 Chimney Rock
Point 78607,860 Snyder Flats
East Toe7,765 Mariano Wash East
Island Peaks7,631 Grizzly Ridge
West Toe7,325 Mariano Wash East
Mountain Sheep Point7,105 Secret Canyon
Point 67196,719 Gateway
Point 67166,716 Gateway
Point 63506,350 Gateway
Cleopatras Couch5,780 Tanks Peak
Point 57005,700 Sieber Canyon

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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RyanS

RyanS - Apr 23, 2006 3:42 am - Voted 10/10

found another potential

Mountain Sheep Point, a ranked peak in the Dolores Canyon.

John Prater

John Prater - Oct 6, 2006 5:04 am - Hasn't voted

List Notes

2007-8-13

- moved Needle Rock from list of possibilities to 5th class list - Jeremy Hakes reports that easiest route is 5.2 based on summit register entries

- changed Cheesman Mountain rating to 5.9 per Jeremy Hakes

- added link to Brian Kalet's new "Coffeepot" page

- set rating of Saint Sophia Ridge to 5.7 per Aaron Ihinger and Jamie Princo



2006-10-05

- updated "Outlaw Peak" (name, rating, SP link)

- removed Point 6100 on Cameo quad from list of possibilities - found route no harder than 3rd class, mostly easier

- removed Point 7182 on Jacks Canyon quad from list of possibilities - found route no harder than 3rd class

John Kirk

John Kirk - Apr 6, 2008 6:47 pm - Hasn't voted

Dog Head

Easiest route - 5.2



http://www.listsofjohn.com/PeakStats/Climbers.php?Id=4313

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Nov 9, 2013 11:20 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Dog Head

Added

John Kirk

John Kirk - Apr 7, 2008 12:53 pm - Hasn't voted

Squaw & Papoose

Haven't done these, but they're definitely in the 5th class category.

Squaw



Papoose

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Nov 10, 2013 2:57 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Squaw & Papoose

Added

Jeremy Hakes

Jeremy Hakes - Jul 2, 2008 12:07 pm - Voted 10/10

Wheeler Monument

Definitely 5th class, likely harder than .10+, as the "easiest" line looks like a west facing arete with hard climbing above it.

http://www.listsofjohn.com/PeakStats/Climbers.php?Id=1777

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Nov 10, 2013 2:42 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Wheeler Monument

Added

CShaw

CShaw - Aug 13, 2012 6:47 pm - Hasn't voted

More suggestions...

Twin Thumbs (South): Easy class 3 with one boulder move to touch the top.

"Gore Thumb": Easy class 3 -- I expected more.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Nov 10, 2013 2:56 am - Hasn't voted

Re: More suggestions...

Thanks...I removed them

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Nov 20, 2013 12:21 pm - Hasn't voted

Northeast Crestone

http://listsofjohn.com/PeakStats/Climbers.php?Id=18

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Nov 20, 2013 1:20 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Northeast Crestone

I have heard many people say NE Crestone is 4th class. few people usually rope up for it. Have you done it?

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Nov 20, 2013 4:30 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Northeast Crestone

Yes, I've climbed Northeast Crestone. It can be tough to differentiate between 4th class & 5.0. I believe Lou Dawson's guidebook calls it 4th class, so maybe it should be left off the list. How about Peak Sixteen?

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Nov 20, 2013 4:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Northeast Crestone

Ah Peak Sixteen should be on the list...good catch there.

I have a few friends who have done NE crestone and said it was only 4th class. I'll add Peak Sixteen though

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Nov 20, 2013 5:06 pm - Hasn't voted

Whitney Peak

http://www.summitpost.org/whitney-peak/154688

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Nov 22, 2013 3:12 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Whitney Peak

Hmmm I always thought the rock on top of Whitney was more of a bouldering problem. When I think of 5th class climbing I think of roped pitches. What do you think? I'll put it in if you think it really warrants it but I know a couple guys who just leaped up and onto the top of it.

BTW, what about the towers at Garden of the Gods? I believe there are 5th class towers there. I'll look but if you know of any let me know!

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Nov 22, 2013 12:36 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Whitney Peak

I've climbed many of the peaks on this list sans rope: Jagged, Teakettle, Peak Fifteen, Coffeepot, Peak Sixteen, Rabbit Ears, PT 10093, The Castle, South Sheeprock & Raleigh, so I'm not sure if roped pitches should be a criterion for list inclusion. So, I would add Whitney.

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Nov 22, 2013 12:40 pm - Hasn't voted

Garden of The Gods

Gate Rock

"South Gateway Rock"

"Montezuma's Tower"

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Dec 9, 2013 12:40 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Garden of The Gods

Added all 3...Thanks!

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Dec 9, 2013 12:26 pm - Hasn't voted

More 5th Class Peaks

Silver Plume Mountain

"Achonee Tower"

"Tuckaway Mountain"

Castle Mountain

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