The Äbeni Flue is a less known neighbour of the famous Jungfrau. Together with the Gletscherhorn (3983m) to the NE and the Mittaghorn (3892m) to the SW, its N Face forms part of the great Lauterbrunnen Wall, which is nearly 1000m high and offers great ice routes.
On previous maps of the area and in older guidebooks and literature, the Äbeni Flue is also refered to as Ebnefluh or Ebenefluh.
The Äbeni Flue offers interesting climbing for all types of climbers. The impressive, broad, steep and icy N Face is an interesting ice climb for experienced mountaineers. The gentle slopes of the SW Flank are ideally for starting alpinists or ski tourers, which can reach the start of the climb easily and without much effort from the Jungfraujoch.
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SW Flank - F (2 to 3 hours)
SSE Ridge - AD (5 hours)
N Ridge - D (7 to 8 hours)
N Face - D+/TD (5 to 8 hours)
NW Ridge Roti Flue - TD (8 hours)
All routes are described well in Bernese Oberland Selected Climbs by Les Swindin. More information about the route through the N Face can be found in Berner Oberland Die 100 schönsten Touren by H Grossen (1989).
The normal route of the Äbeni Flue is most frequently climbed from the Hollandiahütte (SAC - 3240m - 100 places - Phone: 0041 (0)27 939 11 35), but is also accessible from the Konkordiahütte (SAC - 2850m - 165 places - Phone: 0041 (0)33 855 13 94) or the Jungfraubahn. The Hollandiahütte is located about 60m above the Lötschenlücke and can be reached from Fafleralop in the Lötschental in 6 to 8 hours. The Konkardiahütte is most easily reached from the Jungfraubahn via the Jungfraufirn or in 5 to 6 hours from Fiesch.
The N Face is approached from the Rottalhütte (SAC - 2755m - 45 places - Phone: 0041 (0)33 855 24 45), which can be reached in 5 to 6 hours from Stechelberg.
Berner Oberland can easily be reached by train via Bern and Interlaken. The trains run all to way to Lauterbrunnen (for approach to the Äbeni Flue continu to Stechelberg) or Grindelwald. From both towns the Jungfraubahn runs through the Eiger to the Jungfraujoch.
International Airports are located in Zurich and Basel.
At Fafleralp in the Lötschental is a campground with basic sanitary facilities.
Around Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen there are several camp site. These are just 2 options.
Camping Eigernordwand 0041 (0)33 853 12 42
Camping Jungfrau 0041 (0)33 856 20 10
When To Climb
Good conditions are usually found on the Äbeni Flue N Face from June to September, although the face can be climbed year round if you are crazy enough (not recommended). The SW Flank is attended mostly by tourskiers from December to June.
No red tape is required to climb the Äbeni Flue. To all visitors, make sure it keeps that way. Off course it's recommended to be a member of an alpine club to be assuranced for rescue in case of an emergency.