Fiescherhorn is a name for a group of three mountains in the Bernese Oberland: Gross Fiescherhorn (4049m), Hinter Fiescherhorn (4025 m) and Ochs (3900 m). The mountain is well hidden behind other 4000m mountains and the only town where it can be seen is Grindelwald. However, Grindelwald is usually not the starting point, except if you want to climb its impressive and very difficult north face (Fiescherwand) which was opened by the legendary ice climber Welzenbach.
Fiescherhorn is a name derived by the small town of named Fiesch (from latin: vicus = town). Even this place in the Valais canton is not the place where the climb usually starts. There are three popular routes, one starting from the Obermönchsjoch hut (see Mönch), one at the Konkordia hut (see Jungfrau), and the third from the Finsteraarhorn hut (see Finsteraarhorn). All those huts can be reached from the Jungfraujoch rail station (3454 m). The Obermönchsjoch hut is near the rail station. These routes lead over glaciers with many crevasses. Glacier equipment is a must.
If you do not like walking in the snow (as I do), I recommend to use your skis. This is usually safer than walking, because the weight of your body is distributed on a large area of skis and the snow bridges are less prone to break. If you start with skis at the Obermönchsjoch hut, ski down the Ewigschneefeld and join the route from the Konkordia hut.
All three routes are not difficult, but experience in glaciers is a prerequisite.
Link for books and maps:
Literature and Maps
Map Nr. 5004 Berner Oberland 1:50'000
Map Nr. 264 Ski Jungfrau 1:50'000
Map Nr. 1249 Finsteraarhorn 1:25'000
See the Swisstopo Map
with many interesting features. Upload is in a seperate window.
Getting To The Top
From the Mönchsjoch hut
(3650 m, 125 persons). Walk down the Ewigschneefeld (glacier), traverse below the Walcherhorn, reach the ridge below the Gross Fiescherhorn at 3613 m. Follow the ridge to the top (snow, ice, cornice and rocks). 5 hours.
From the Konkordia hut (2850m)
climb the Ewigschneefeld to the point where you are below the saddle between Gross and Hinter Fiescherhorn. Then climb the saddle (Fieschersattel 3923 m), follow the easy ridge to the top. (See my photos). A bergschrund might pose a problem in late summer to reach the saddle. 6 hours.
Leave the Finsteraarhorn hut (3048m)
and follow the Fiescherglacier to the top. Many crevasses. Ideal with skis. 5 hours. The Hinter Fiescherhorn can be reached by ski right to the top, leave the skis at Fieschersattel, if you head for the Gross Fiescherhorn.
When To Climb
Spring with skis, summer by foot. Fall is more difficult due to crevasses
For books, maps, webcams, trains, buses, weather, avalanches, rescue
see my list Swiss Links
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