Schreckhorn

Overview

Schreckhorn is in the Eastern Bernese Oberland, between Grimsel and the Fiescher and Eismeer Glaciers. It forms with Lauteraarhorn an impressive double-summit. Schreckhorn is the culmination point of a 10 Km ridge that extends from the NW to the SE over Mettenberg (3.104 m), Ankenbälli (3.164 m), Gwächtenhorn (3.164 m), Klein Schreckhorn (3.494 m), Nässihorn (3.741 m), Schreckhorn itself, Lauteraarhorn (4.042 m), Kleines Lauteraarhorn (3.737 m) and Lauteraar Rothörner (3.473 m). It's the most rugged and hardest 4.000 meter mountain in the Bernese Alps.

This mountain is hard to approach, regardless from which side. In this point we can compare Schreckhorn with mountains like Aiguille Verte or Dent Blanche. What makes Schreckhorn a wanted target for mountaineers are its challeging and beautiful rocky ridges, like NW and SW ridges. And what about the magnificent rocky S face? To complete the picture you can test youself on the W or NE faces. And very important, when you try one of the routes on Schreckhorn, you can rest assured that you won't run into a crowd. Even the normal route, the SW ridge, is too hard to attract the masses. But for those who don't mind the suffering of getting to the foot of the mountain and a hard but exciting climb, will certainly be more than rewarded.

First climbed by Leslie Stephen with the guides Christian, Peter Michel and Ulrich Kaufmann in 1861. SW ridge was first climbed by J.H. Wicks, E.H.F. Bradby and C. Wilson on July, 26th 1907.

Getting There

ROAD

National motorways lead from Basel, Geneva or Zurich via Berne to Spiez. From here Grindelwald can be reached in about 45 minutes on very good roads.

Distances to Grindelwald from:

Bern 72 km
Luzern 85 km
Basel 175 km
Zürich 193 km
Milano 358 km
Strasbourg 513 km
Frankfurt 408 km
München 495 km

TRAIN

There are daily direct ICE-, Eurocity-, Intercity-, CISALPINO- and TGV-trains from various European cities to Interlaken. From here, there are direct rail connections to Grindelwald. The total travelling time Interlaken - Grindelwald is 35 minutes.

PLANE

The international airports of Zurich, Basel and Geneva offer direct rail connections to Interlaken - Grindelwald. The Berne airport is connected to the railway system by airport taxi.

Pfingsteggbahn

It's the cableway Grindelwald to Pfingstegg (which means 'Whitsun corner').

Buy yourself a one-way ticket at Talstation (1.028 m) and enjoy the ten minute ride to Pfingstegg (1.391 m). See LINKS for details about prices and timetables.

Huts

Three huts are at your diposal to attempt Schreckhorn. For the routes on the W and S side and the traverse Schreckhorn-Lauteraarhorn, there is the Schreckhornhütte (2.530 m). For the routes on the NE side you'll have to attain either the Glecksteinhütte (2.317 m) or the Lauteraarhütte (2.392 m).

Schreckhornhütte (2.530 m)
The path up to the Schreckhornhütte departs from Grindelwald (1.034 m) and leads us up alogside the E borders of the Unterer Grindelwaldgletscher and the Unterer and Obers Eismeer. It's a very long approach, about 6 hours, but to my knowledge one of the most splendid approaches in the entire Alps. 4 h 30 min from Pfingstegg cable station.

SAC, 90 places (57 in winter), built in 1979 / 80, opens from July to late August, phone: 033 - 855 10 25.

Glecksteinhütte (2.317 m)
The path to the Glecksteinhütte starts at Hotel Wetterhorn (3 h 30 min) or Grindelwald (4 h 30 min), it's also of a rare beauty with magnificent views on the NE side of the Schreckhorn chain. From Hotel Wetterhorn shorten by Haltestelle Glecksteinweg (2 h 30 min) but be careful in Winter / Spring with the avalanches. If you spend the night in this hut (that serves a great breakfast) and you have a bit of luck, you might spot a colony of steinbocks.

SAC, 120 places (32 in winter), first built in 1880, opens from early June to late September, Postauto from Grindelwald station to Hotel Wetterhorn, phone: 033 - 853 11 40.

Lauteraarhütte (2.392 m)
SAC, 50 places, placed at Handegg / Grimsel Hospiz, first built in 1882, opens from July to late August, phone: 033 - 973 11 10

Gasthaus Stieregg
Phone: 036 - 565318

When to Climb

From late June to early October. Be prepared for snow on the trail early in the season, and variable conditions at all times. Thunderstorms are common in July. Late August often sees clear skies and stable weather.

Maps

Grindelwald, Landeskarte der Schweiz 1:25.000.

264 Jungfrau, Landeskarte der Schweiz 1:50.000.

Berg: Schreckhorn

External Links

• Topin
  Weather and a webcam from Grindelwald-First focusing Schreckhorn area (right of the photo). In German.
• Pfingstegg
  Prices / timetible of the cable car, status of the infrastructure, geology notes, some hikes and a sketch are the most interesting links. In German and English.
• Pictures of the Bernese Oberland
  Site with pictures of the area around the Schreckhorn (Stieregg, Glecksteinhütte, Wetterhorn, Mönchsjochhütte, Jungfraujoch, Grindelwald)
• Homepage of berghaus/restaurant Stieregg
  Half-way the route towards the Schreckhornhütte
• Schreckhorn at www.4000er.de
  Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-6 of 6

Diego Sahagún - Aug 27, 2004 12:29 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

dmiki, add it if you want. I'd like to have it in the "Getting There" section, if you don't mind.

Gracias

alpenkalb - Jan 30, 2002 10:49 am - Voted 5/10

Untitled Comment

I assume the keeper will write the normal route based on his personal experience. If you do not mind I add the south ridge.

dmiki - Aug 27, 2004 7:56 am - Voted 8/10

Untitled Comment

Maybe add a map of the Jungfrau region?

Diego Sahagún - Aug 27, 2004 12:29 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

dmiki, add it if you want. I'd like to have it in the "Getting There" section, if you don't mind.

Gracias

Garfield - Dec 12, 2005 6:56 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Photo

iamptarmigan - Jan 24, 2006 2:27 pm - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

In June 2005 the trail leading to the Schreckhorn-hutte from Grindelwald was closed, after it had collapsed in rock fall. Swiss engineers were last reported to be building a new route to the hutte, and anyone visiting the area would be advised to check if the trail is now open.

Viewing: 1-6 of 6