Brenta Group

Overview

Brenta Group

The Brenta Group (known in Italy as Dolomiti di Brenta) is located in Northern Italy, entirely in the Trento province. It's a complex mountain range made up of high dolomite and limestone peaks. Although they are formed of dolomite and in all similar to the Dolomites, due to its geographical position (to the West of the Valle dell'Adige) the Brenta Group is considered to belong to the Alpi Retiche Meridionali (Central Alps). Its boundaries are 4 valleys: on the Northern side the Val di Sole, on the Eastern side the Val di Non and the Paganella plateau, on the Southern side the Giudicarie, and on the Western side the Val Rendena. There are several peaks overcoming the threshold of 3000 meters of altitude, among which the highest one is Cima Tosa 3173 m.

It is followed by Cima Brenta 3151 m, Crozzon di Brenta 3118 m, Cima Vallesinella 3114 m, Cima d' Ambiez 3102 m, Cima Mandron 3033 m, Torre Kiene XV 3030 m, Torre Kiene XIII 3026 m, Cima Garbari 3018 m, Cima Bassa d'Ambiez 3017 m, Torre di Brenta 3008 m and Spallone dei Massodi 3004 m. Many others summits overcome the 2500 meters.

This group is a true paradise for climbers. You can spend here many summer weeks climbing one fine route after another: difficulties up to extreme, walls dropping up to 900 m. And, of course, the best place (I think) in the whole Alps for hikers that like "empty" spaces ... Very exposed "ferrate" are waiting for the enjoyment of all those who are not giddy.

Just remember one thing: these are not typical dolomite mountains and you can find here snow and ice that can give you some problems while descending from the higher summits. The Brenta group is rich of small glaciers named "vedrette", although in recent years snow and ice as in many other Alpine groups are rapidly decreasing. 

The whole Group can be divided into several subgroups. Each subgroup is listed below together with its main summits. A coarser classification distinguishes the central range from the peripheral ranges. The peaks of the former are predominantly made of dolomite rock, while the remaining summits are mostly limestone.

The two rocks are close relatives: the main difference is that limestone is rich in calcite instead of dolomite. The two minerals differ in turn because calcium has been partially replaced by magnesium in the latter. In spite of their similar make-ups, limestone and dolomite rock are quite different from a climber's perspective. Limestone is easily eroded by rain into smooth slanting slabs. Dolomite rock, which is not nearly as soluble in water, is horizontally stratified and tends to break into spires characterized by vertical walls.

Dolomite rock is often conveniently "color-coded:" Yellow-orange rock is typically overhanging. Black rock is usually wet, while rock that has been washed by rain, but is usually dry tends to be gray.

Claude Mauguier notes that the name Brenta is derived from the local dialect term brent (brenta in Italian): a big wooden bucket used to carry water. Its shape reminds also the equivalent insular Celtic cwm; thus the local toponym bren da l'ors means bear cwm. The names Cadini and Catinaccio have similar origins. (Black bears, once common in the group, have become extinct.)

Sabbion chain

This is a minor subgroup that offers limited climbing possibilities, some for hiking, good for tourists with the possibility to arrive to the summit of Dos del Sabbion without making any effort ...

Dos del Sabbion - 2101 m
Monte Tov - 2050 m

Vallon subgroup

A wild subgroup, seldom frequented due to its limited climbing possibilities; some fine hikes here.

- Pala dei Mughi - 2321 m
- Cima XII Apostoli - 2699 m
- Croz delle Selvate - 2898 m
- Cima del Vallon - 2968 m
- Campanile dei Boci - 2093 m

Fracingli subgroup

Almost forgotten, very wild, some climbing routes on its east side (Val Brenta)

- Cima di Nardis - 2616 m
- Dosson dei Fracingli - 2409 m
- Cima della Vedretta - 2670 m
- Cima della Farfalla - 2660 m
- Campanili di Fracingli - 2589 m
- Crozzon di Val d'Agola - 2673 m

Ambiez chain

The first important chain both for climbers and hikers.
Here some very difficult routes and a very spectacular and exposed "ferrata"

- Cima d'Ambiez - 3102 m
- Denti d'Ambiez - 2840 m
- Cima Bassa d'Ambiez - 3017 m
- Cima d'Agola - 2959 m
- Cima Susat - 2890 m
- Cime di Pratofiorito - 2900 m
- Le Tose - 2863 m

Ghez subgroup

Very wild group, rock here is quite different from the one you find in the central areas

- Dos di Dalun - 2680 m
- Torrione Dallago - 2568 m
- Cima di Ghez - 2713 m

Tosa massif

The highest and most massive subgroup, only one easy route here (but requiring some alpinistic skill) and a lot of serious ones.

- Crozzon di Brenta - 3135 m
- Cima Tosa - 3173 m
- Punta dell'Ideale - 2950 m
- Cima Ceda - 2766 m
- Cima Margherita - 2845 m
- Cima Brenta Bassa - 2809 m

Daino subgroup

A small, peripheral subgroup, the only frequented summit (due to easy and very short access from Rifugio Pedrotti) is Croz del Rifugio

- Monte Daino - 2695 m
- Cima delle Fontane Fredde - 2202 m
- Croz della Selvata - 1998 m
- Croz del Rifugio - 2615 m

Central subgroup - Sfulmini chain

The most important subgroup, a fantastic series of pinnacles bordered by two important and massive summits.
Here the finest "ferrata" of the group (and, maybe, of the whole Alps), the Bocchette Centrali, not difficult but aerial, in fantastic scenery and with some unforgettable views.

- Brenta Alta - 2960 m
- Campanil Basso - 2883 m
- Campanile Alto - 2937 m
- Sfulmini - 2910 m
- Torre di Brenta - 3014 m
- Torri Prati, Bianchi, Nardelli - 2680 m
- Cima degli Armi - 2951 m
- Cima Molveno 2917 m

Central subgroup - Cima Brenta massif

A big massif with very wide (and high) walls on S and E sides.
In the mid of this wall there is a big ledge where 2 Vie ferrate pass through.

- Spallone dei Massodi - 2999 m
- Cima Baratieri - 2944 m
- Cima Iolanda - 2815 m
- Cima Brenta - 3150 m
- Punta Massari - 2846 m
- Cima Mandron - 3040 m
- Punte di Campiglio - 2969 m

Grostè massif

An important subgroup for hiking, only few summits host fine climbing routes.

- Cima Sella - 2917 m
- Castelletto superiore - 2700 m
- Castelletto di mezzo - 2571 m
- Castelletto inferiore - 2601 m
- Torrione di Vallesinella - 2462 m
- Cima Falkner - 2999 m
- Cima del Grostè - 2901 m
- Cima delle Val Perse - 2811 m
- Cima Roma - 2837 m
- Cima della Vallazza - 2810 m
- Corna Rossa - 2350 m

Gaiarda - Altissimo

A strange but unique structure ... easy to climb almost everywhere but .. with one of the most impressive and difficult walls of the group

- Cima della Gaiarda - 2640 m
- Croz dell'Altissimo - 2339 m

Campa

A peripheral subgroup, just for hiking

- Monte Fibbion - 2671 m
- Cima di S.Maria - 2678 m
- Cima di Val Scura - 2670 m
- Cimon della Campa - 2598 m
- Torre di Flavona - 2335 m
- Croz del Re - 2505 m

Northern chain

As the previous one

the Northern chain page
Pietra Grande - 2937 m
Cima Vagliana - 2861 m

Corno di Flavona - 2918 m
Cima delle Palete - 2405 m
Sasso Alto - 2897 m
Cima Sassara - 2894 m
Cimon della Pozza - 2824 m
Pulpito Secondo (Frate) - 2678 m
Cima del Tov - 2608 m
Cima Maria Luisa - 2421 m
Sasso Rosso - 2645 m

Hikers paradise

A friend of mine sent me these wonderful pics about the possibilities of high hiking along the Brenta ledges that cross the whole group.
(I've been running on them many times while approaching the climbs but I never took pics)
I don't know where they come from (who shot them) ... but they're so fine that I can't help posting,
For better descriptions see the Routes (on the left side of the page)

and some more ...

Maps

if you need good maps you must look for :
1:50,000 - Tabacco, no. 10 (Dolomiti di Brenta, Adamello, Presanella)
1:50,000 - Kompass, no. 73 (Gruppo di Brenta)
1:25,000 - Kompass, no. 688 (Gruppo di Brenta)
1:50,000 - TCI - Gruppo di Brenta
Can be found in Madonna di Campiglio shops and in some Refuges

There are also the 1:25,000 maps of IGM but some of them are very old.

Getting There from Europe

approaching the Val Rendena - Madonna di Campiglio (best for the central group) - some info
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coming from Milan: 2 different ways
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the shortest but not easy to find
- follow for autoroute A4-E64
- enter it (pay) till Brescia Est
- Tangenziale Sud di Brescia 2,5km
- Ss45bis 17.7 km
- turn to the left, go on with Spiv for 3.4 km
- turn to the right, go on for 28 m
- turn to the right, go on with Spiv for 1.5 km till VOBARNO
- turn to the right, go on with Sp56 for 14.4 km
- turn to the right, go on with Sp111 for 3.8 km
- turn to the left, go on with Sp58 for 1.3 km
- Ss237 for 41.6 km till TIONE DI TRENTO
- turn to the right, go on with Sp34 for 10.1 km
- Sp236 for 9.2 km
- turn to the right, go on with Ss239 for 11.5 km
... and, if all is OK you are in Madonna di Campiglio - 230 km
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the longest but much easier to find
- follow for autoroute A4-E64
- enter it (pay) till the cross with the A22 (after Verona)
- enter the autoroute 22 toward north (Trento-Bolzano-Brennero)
- follow it till SAN MICHELE ALL'ADIGE ... you are at point 1 of the under approach (from Bolzano)
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coming from Bolzano : 93 km
autoroute A22 del Brennero :
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1 get out the autoroute at SAN MICHELE ALL'ADIGE
2 when you see indication BRENNERO/MODENA turn to the right and get the Ss43/ Strada Statale Della Val Di Non for 8.3 km
3 follow the Sp73 for 20.7 km
4 follow the per Ss42 fot 14.1 km
5 turn to left anfd follow the Ss239 till DIMARO
6 turn to the right and follow the Ss239 for 15.9 km
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coming from Trento : 70 km
autoroute A22 del Brennero per 9 km fino a SAN MICHELE ALL'ADIGE 9.0 km
you are at point 1 of the upper
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coming from Italy NW - France - west Switzerland reach Milan
coming from eastern Switzerland - Austria - Germany reach Bolzano
coming from Italy NE - Slovenia - Croatia reach Trento

Brenta Group pics from outside

Brenta Group pics from inside

Getting There from other Continents (air)

get Milano
- via Malpensa airport there is a railway that brings you almost in the centre of town (P.zza Cadorna) , by underground line 2 (green) reach "Porta Garibaldi": there is a service by bus that brings you directly to Madonna di Campiglio (Autostradale)
- via Linate airport - get the Centre on Milan then by underground line 2 (green) reach "Porta Garibaldi" ...
this service is available in June, July and August

When (and where) to Climb

Best months for climbing are July and September. August is normally very crowded with hikers and normally weather is not so fine ... in the afternoon it often rains.
Some south faces can be climbed even in June and October, but refuges are normally closed.

Where to climb .... easy: the central chain, from Grostè to Ambiez is full of amusing routes of all difficulties, just remember that, starting from the 3° degree UIAA normally here you'll find vertical.

Best refuges for climbers:
Brentei - a lot of routes - from NE wall of Crozzon di Brenta (900m of wonderland) to all Sfulmini chain
Pedrotti - for Brenta Alta east wall (minimum TD) and the solar wall of Cima Margherita
Ambiez - the fine and difficult wall of Cima d'Ambiez and Cime di Pratofiorito ...
Tuckett - some amusing climbs and some mountain routes

Other possibilities to your fantasy when you give a glance
First time I came here (a lot of years ago) I spent a week in Rif. Brentei, without any kind of info ... only knew that there I could climb the Campanile Basso.
While reaching, climbing and descending I could choose what to do in the next days .. wonderful, it was tramp-climbing :)

Books

the best (a true "Bible") book of the Group I think is the :
Guida dei Monti d'Italia - by Gino Buscaini and Ettore Castiglioni
DOLOMITI di BRENTA - (CAI-TCI - Italy - 1977)
can be still found in Madonna di campiglio shops

Dolomiti di Brenta - Luca Visentini - Ed.Athesia, (italian & german versions) - (thanks to livioz for the info)

Refuges

Some "touristic" info

If you are spending a week in val Rendena maybe you would like to play golf (Madonna di Campiglio or Pinzolo) but if you stay in Pinzolo you can easily (by car) enter three areas where you can spend a fine day with the family, on the opposite (west) side of the valley :
- Val di Genova : a wonderful wild valley where, if you are lucky, you can see some bears and, in any case, beautiful sceneries of the Adamello group - you can go by car till Rif. Bedole
- Val d'Amola : a valley that brings you to a big highland on the east of Presanella : wild and full of granite walls
- Val Nambrone : another valley on the east side of Presanella group, wonderful sceneries and easy and amazing hiking

Meteo

Meteotrentino

Red Tape

Brenta group is located inside Adamello - Brenta Natural Park

External Links

• Route in the Brenta Group
  This route runs through the center of the Brenta Group and it includes the best known trails. In Italian.

Panoramas

Panorama from Cima degli Armi to Francingli

Val Brenta

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-2 of 2

Gabriele Roth - Aug 7, 2008 10:20 am - Voted 10/10

news about the paths

due to the glacier melt : Bocchetta di Tuckett (sentiero Orsi) the Molveno side has become very dangerous for loose ground Bocca d'Ambiez (ferrata Brentari) a new ladder is to be posted to gain the starting point Bocca dei Due Denti (Ferrata Castiglioni) - problems on the two sides

frotveit - Jul 19, 2011 6:10 am - Voted 10/10

External link

A page dedicated to brenta: http://www.dolomitibrenta.it/dobre-in/index-in.htm

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