Golden Horn

Overview

Alpenglow on Golden Horn

Golden Horn is listed under the Washington Top 100 and is located in the Okanogan National Forest in the eastern North Cascades just north of Rainy and Washington Pass. As evident from its name the peak's rock has a striking color as well as beautiful golden larches during the fall. This mountain offers great views of the Pasayten Wilderness, the surrounding Washington Pass area and to the south the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Golden Horn is a relatively easy climb but with a lot of approach miles and a few low 5th class moves at the end. Most do this peak in two days although if your speedy you can do it in one. Tower Mountain is located just south of Golden Horn and can be climbed in the same trip.

Golden Horn Panorama taken October 2, 2010

Getting There

Diablo Lake on the Way

 

Golden Larches on the way

From Seattle: Drive North along I-5 until you get to Arlington at exit 208. From here you take a right onto highway 530, in about 4 miles you take a left onto highway 9 for a few seconds and then take a right back onto highway 530. Then continue heading East for 27 miles until you get to Darrington. In Darrington you'll see a shell gas station where you take a left (north) which continues as highway 530 (to the right is the Mountain Loop Highway). Eventually you'll end up in Rockport where you should take a right onto highway 20. From here you'll pass through Marblemount, Newhalem, and then Diablo. After Diablo there are no more cities, which now head on over to Rainy Pass. At Rainy Pass take a left onto NFD Road 600, from here it goes to the trailhead.

From Winthrop (East Side of the Cascades): Drive East on Highway 20 for about 35 miles, on the way you head over Washington Pass which is an excellent stop for views and photos. At Rainy Pass take a right onto National Forest Development Road 600 which is a short distance to the trailhead.

If you prefer a bushwhacking approach you can start from the pull out at Swamp Creek on Highway 20 (3 miles before you get to Rainy Pass). If you are coming from the east, you can park at the Cutthroat Lake trailhead and follow Cutthroat Lake trail to PCNST.

Route Information

The adventure starts out as a nice trail walk through the woods with clearings which you can see Black Peak, Corteo Peak, and a few others. There is only one main creek crossing on the entire trip near the beginning which is easy (last time I was here there was a log crossing).

The Trail

As you're hiking along, you may encounter many hikers trekking to Canada, after all your on the Pacific Crest Trail. The trail remains nice and smooth all the way to Cutthroat Pass, about a mile before the Pass there is a nice place for camping with a creek for filtering water. At the pass alone you are rewarded with great views of the North Cascades extending from Hinkhouse Peak, Silverstar, Cutthroat Peak, and in the distance you can see Dome Peak.

Just before the Pass

Sunrise near the Pass

Dome Peak in the Distance

The Golden Pathway

Tower Mountain

From Cutthroat Pass be sure to go left (North East) which now traverses Point 7331. Eventually after traversing onto the other side of the mountain you start to lose elevation going down to Granite Pass, since the trail zig zags a lot.

Tower Mountain Panorama looking North

After Granite Pass the trail gently traverses the bottom of Tower Mountain. The trail eventually dips towards Snowy Lakes (North) where there is an unlabeled turn off trail. From here the trail takes you to snowy lakes which I give the nickname "Snowy Lakes Basin". There are some excellent choices for camping here, as well as a nice place to relax and enjoy the good views. But don't stop here, the views get better on Golden Horn (although you loose some of the fall Golden Larches as you go higher).

Mount Hardy with Golden Larches

Lower Snowy Lake Panorama

Upper Snowy Lake Panorama

Snowy Lake with Tower Mountain

Beyond the lakes the trail goes away (although you might get small traces of it for a little while), head in the general direction of Golden Horn staying lower to avoid some upper rock scree and such. The way I climbed Golden Horn was diagonally going across the scree field. Then once you get to the final ridge you may be intimidated by Golden Horn's steep face. I know I sure was, but keep going. Traverse around the edge of Golden Horn until you're on it's Southwest side. Here's were it gets interesting, this part is a class 2-3 scramble which takes the gully on the left, I made the mistake of taking the one on the right and traversed a sketchy part to go around the East Face of Golden Horn. Once you're next to the summit you may notice some rappel rings, if you brought a rope, now is the time to use it. If your feeling comfortable enough you can climb this without a rope, but remember there is also the way down you have to deal with. Although I did touch the summit of Golden Horn, I never actually stood on it due to how unflat it is and the exposure all around. From the summit your rewarded with great views of the North Cascades. Congrats, you earned it!

The Ridge up Golden Horn

The Last Few Feet

Looking West

Views of Silver Star Peak during Sunset on the way Back

Red Tape & Camping

Gear to Bring

Roped up for the Summit

Gear for the Climb

-10 Essentials

-Rope and Harness (optional) Keep in mind this is Fred Beckey's Class 3 which means 10-15 feet of low class 5. I did this part unroped but had to carefully descend the top and hold on to the rappel slings. The rest of my group did not feel comfortable without a rope to summit.

-Ice Ace (if early season)

-Tent (if your staying overnight as well as over night gear)

-Helmet (optional) You do travel into a gully section near the summit which I've seen people bring helmets.

When To Climb

Most folks climb this peak July though October. It can be done in May-June but may be snowy at the top making the summit more difficult. The road is closed at least half the year making it important to check the road conditions before climbing this peak. During summer it's usually open. Late September and early October is prime time to be here considering the golden larches are at their peak.

Aerial View from a Helicopter during April

Golden Horn from Methow Pinnacles

Mountain Conditions

For Weather information check in with the Noaa Forecast.

For Avalanche forecast's check in with the North West Avalanche Center.

Click here for road conditions for Rainy Pass and Washington Pass.

Stormy weather over Tower and Golden Horn

Topographic Maps

Upper Golden Horn Map

Lower Golden Horn Map

Video

External Trip Reports

Images	Trip Report Title	Author	Description
	Golden Horn but green larches, 9.27-28.2008	Opus	Good information and photos
	Golden Horn during September of 2008	Hans	Portrays some Decent Photography
	Golden Horn and Tower Mountain during August of 2007	Roald	A good Report on doing both Golden and Tower Mountain
	golden horn + tower mt 10/11/06-10/13/06	b00	Another Tower and Golden Horn Trip

Also for more trip reports here are some from Washington Trails Association's website.