Forgotten mountain belonging to the Italian-Swiss border ridge between the glacier Otemma and the Valpelline (Aosta Valley) with elongated and round shape. It is enclosed between the “Col d'Otemma” 3209m on north and the “Col de l'Aouille Tseuque” 3259m on south.
It has 3 summits that overhang many spacious terraces.The top of the NE summit where the snowy N ridge joins the border ridge is the highest top.
From south valley (Valpelline) can't be distinguished unless you get the highest slopes of the chain that closes Valpelline at south.
From its summit you can admire one of the finest panoramas of Alpi Pennine staring at the Mont Velan, the Grand Combin and the Dent d'Herens and the big glaciers of Otemma.
Along the route from Martigny
where a route follows the Val de Bagnes
(1840 m) near a big dike.
By a white narrow route (some danger, not always open) you can reach the cabane de Chanrion
2460 m near the end of Otemma glacier.
Otherwise from Arolla (Val d'Herens) take the direction to the Cabane de Vignettes and then across the glacier d'Otemma to the foot of the mountain.
From Italy (south):
Along the route Aosta-Gran San Bernardo till Valpelline village, then along the new Valpelline route till the hamlet of "Grand Chamen" (1710m). A paved road takes in the valley of Grand Chamen. The entrance is usually forbidden. But it's possible to try to get up to the valley with a 4X4.
Glacier d'Otemma from the summit of Aouille Tseuque
From the NE flank and the north ridge (normal route):
A.Tschumi and two unknown partners - 25/07/1886 Most logic route from Italy and Switzerland (PD) (BSA with ski)
From the south side and the SE ridge:
J.Henry/J.B.Gontier - 17/08/1906 Rarely climbed
From the NE flank and SW ridge:
A.Baltzer/C.Schroeder/S.Bessard - 31/07/1867
From the WNW flank:
M.Kurz/C.Favre - 16/10/1922 This is the normal route from the Cabane de Chanrion
From the north ridge:
E.Frohlich/F.Keller - 22/07/1923 Interesting rock climb route
From the ESE wall:
Gino & Silvia Buscaini - 11/07/1970 Fine route with passages of III/IV 350m
Italian normal route
Aouille Tseuque. My foot steps are visible along the normal route
Wild route! Very long (1844m drop) and very rarely repeated in the summer, it has no signs or cairns. The phone signal disappears a few hundred meters above the parking lot, not to ever appear along the way. Most of the climb takes place on slides and insatabile terrain.
From the hamlet of "Chamen" 1710m, follow the farm road that goes along the "Comba di Grand Chamen" It may be possible to come up with a 4X4 gaining 500m to the huts of "La Grotta" 2211m.
Follow the path leading up to the "Bivouac della Sassa."
After the rocky crag on the south side dell'Aouille Tseuque, leave the trail and headed up the steep valley that leads to Colle Otemma 3209m. To leave the path, taking as a reference the ruins of an old dilapidated cabin.
Climb on steep rocky slopes somewhat unstable with no signage. It's hard to wrong the direction, however the valley is enclosed by massive walls.
Exploiting the several slopes of snow, get to the snowy plateau that terminates against a rock wall at first sight ivalicabile at the base of the Col Otemma.
The access channel to the pass is visible only once below it. It starts on the right side (as viewed) of the rock wall; and is recognizable by the highest cone of avalanche.
Climb the channel with steps of I and II. The rock is very dirty and perpetually bathed by streams of water coming from above. At the exit of the channel, a unstable rock slope leads to Colle Otemma 3209m marked by a wood stick.
From the pass, down a few meters on the glacier dell'Aiguillette, flat and without crevasses. Overcome the east spur of the Aouille Tseuque, and then point to the snowy ramp that descends from the summit. The 150m long slope with a gradient of 40° (45° on the left edge) should be approached with caution, especially late in the season, when the dry ice surfaces in some places.
Along the climb, keep to the right margin which is shorter and where the slope is slightly lower. The slope leads to a sort of humpback with increasing slope that leads to the summit.
Along the back follow the same route. Be careful in the channel under the hill. There are no anchorages for rappeling except a lanyard rotten more or less in the middle. In the hottest hours of the afternoon, the channel is wet from a perennial shower from the hill (be careful!).
Bivouac de la Sengla
It's possible to divide the climb in two days, staying overnight at the characteristic "bivouac de la Sengla" 3199m, located 30 min. from the Col d' Otemma.
12 places. Placed on the eagle nest called "l'Aiguillette" above the glacer Otemma. 2 hours from Cabane de Vignettes (F). 3 hours from Cabane du Chanrion (F). 3 hours from Chamen across del Col d'Otemma (PD).
Bivouac de la Sengla
Bivouac de la Sengla
Informations and linksMaps:
1:25000 no. 1347 Matterhorn and 1346 Chanrion
1:50000 no. 283 Arolla
1.50000 Kompass no.87 Breuil Cervinia Zermatt
"Guida dei monti d'Italia" Gino Buscaini ALPI PENNINE vol 2