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Aouille Tseuque
Mountain/Rock

Aouille Tseuque

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Aouille Tseuque

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Aosta - Valais/Italy/Switzerland/Europe, Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.93010°N / 7.44285°E

Object Title: Aouille Tseuque

Activities: Mountaineering, Skiing

Elevation: 11660 ft / 3554 m

 

Page By: Antonio Giani

Created/Edited: Jul 22, 2014 / Jul 16, 2017

Object ID: 905882

Hits: 1546 

Page Score: 86.85%  - 23 Votes 

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Overview

- Aouille Tseuque - 3.554 m -

 
Aouille Tseuque
Aouille Tseuque



Forgotten mountain belonging to the Italian-Swiss border ridge between the glacier Otemma and the Valpelline (Aosta Valley) with elongated and round shape. It is enclosed between the; "Col d'Otemma" (3.209m) on north and the "Col de l'Aouille Tseuque" (3.259m) on south.

At this summit have been attributed in the past several names as: "Becca Scorna", "Ouille Secca", "La Sciassa" and at the end, "Aouille Tseuque". In the local dialectof the Aosta valley it means "goat without horns". It has 3 summits that overhang many spacious terraces.The top of the NE summit where the snowy N ridge joins the border ridge is the highest top.

The central peak is 130m far from the N and it hosts a trigonometric signal; the southern is 220m away. On the south side there is a small glacier very close to extinction, named "Ghiacciaio di Grand Epicoun".

It's rarely climbed in summer from both sides perhaps due to the long and difficult access, especially from the steep rocky cliffs of the Italian side. However, it is usually climbed in the spring time along the snowy slopes of the swiss side.

From south valley (Valpelline) can't be distinguished unless you get the highest slopes of the chain that closes Valpelline at south.
From its summit you can admire one of the finest panoramas of Alpi Pennine staring at the Mont Velan, the Grand Combin, and the Dent d'Herens, and the big glaciers of Otemma.

First Ascents

  • First ascent (SW Ridge): A. Baltzer, C. Schroeder, S. Bessard, (Jul 31th, 1867).
  • NE flank and the North Ridge (normal route): A. Tschumi and two unknown partners - Most logic route from Italy and Switzerland (PD) (BSA with ski), (Jul 25th, 1886).
  • South Side and the SE Ridge: J. Henry, J. B. Gontier - Rarely climbed, (Aug 17th, 1906).
  • NE Flank and SW Ridge: A. Baltzer, C. Schroeder and S. Bessard, - 31/07/1867, (Jul 31th, 1867).
  • WNW Flank: M. Kurz and C. Favre - This is the normal route from the Cabane de Chanrion, (Oct 16th, 1922).
  • North Ridge: E. Frohlich and F. Keller - Interesting rock climb route, (Jul 22th, 1923).
  • ESE Wall: Gino & Silvia Buscaini - Fine route with passages of III°/IV° 350m, (Jul 07th, 1970).

Aouille Tseuque
Bivouac de la Sengla. From left: Becca de la Sasse and Aouille Tseuque

Getting There

From Switzerland (north):

Along the route from Martigny reach Sembrancher where a route follows the Val de Bagnes till Mauvoisin (1.840m) near a big dike.
By a white narrow route (some danger, not always open) you can reach the Cabane de Chanrion (2.462m) near the end of Otemma glacier.
Otherwise from Arolla (Val d'Herens) take the direction to the Cabane de Vignettes and then across the glacier d'Otemma to the foot of the mountain.

From Italy (south):

Along the route Aosta-Gran San Bernardo till Valpelline village, then along the new Valpelline route till the hamlet of "Grand Chamen" (1.710m). A paved road takes in the valley of Grand Chamen. The entrance is usually forbidden. But it's possible to try to get up to the valley with a 4X4.

Glacier d'Otemma
Glacier d'Otemma from the summit of Aouille Tseuque

Italian normal route

 
Aouille Tseuque
Aouille Tseuque. My foot steps are visible along the normal route


Wild route! Very long (1.844m drop) and very rarely repeated in the summer, it has no signs or cairns. The phone signal disappears a few hundred meters above the parking lot, not to ever appear along the way. Most of the climb takes place on slides and insatabile terrain (PD+ II).

Ascent:

From the hamlet of "Chamen" (1.710m), follow the farm road that goes along the "Comba di Grand Chamen" It may be possible to come up with a 4X4 gaining 500m to the huts of "La Grotta" (2.211m). Follow the path leading up to the "Bivouac della Sassa." After the rocky crag on the south side dell'Aouille Tseuque, leave the trail and headed up the steep valley that leads to Colle Otemma (3.209m). To leave the path, taking as a reference the ruins of an old dilapidated cabin.
Climb on steep rocky slopes somewhat unstable with no signage. It's hard to wrong the direction, however the valley is enclosed by massive walls. Exploiting the several slopes of snow, get to the snowy plateau that terminates against a rock wall at first sight ivalicabile at the base of the Col Otemma. The access channel to the pass is visible only once below it. It starts on the right side (as viewed) of the rock wall; and is recognizable by the highest cone of avalanche. Climb the channel with steps of I and II. The rock is very dirty and perpetually bathed by streams of water coming from above. At the exit of the channel, a unstable rock slope leads to Colle Otemma (3.209m) marked by a wood stick. From the pass, down a few meters on the glacier dell'Aiguillette, flat and without crevasses. Overcome the east spur of the Aouille Tseuque, and then point to the snowy ramp that descends from the summit. The 150m long slope with a gradient of 40° (45° on the left edge) should be approached with caution, especially late in the season, when the dry ice surfaces in some places. Along the climb, keep to the right margin which is shorter and where the slope is slightly lower. The slope leads to a sort of humpback with increasing slope that leads to the summit.

Descent:

Along the back follow the same route. Be careful in the channel under the hill. There are no anchorages for rappeling except a lanyard rotten more or less in the middle. In the hottest hours of the afternoon, the channel is wet from a perennial shower from the hill (be careful!).

Bivouac de la Sengla

It's possible to divide the climb in two days, staying overnight at the characteristic "bivouac de la Sengla" (3.199m), located 30 min. from the Col d'Otemma. 12 places. Placed on the eagle nest called "l'Aiguillette" above the glacer Otemma. 2h'00 from Cabane de Vignettes (F). 3h'00 from Cabane de Chanrion (F). 3h'00 from Chamen across del Col d'Otemma (PD).

Aouille Tseuque
Bivouac de la Sengla
Bivouac de la Sengla
Aouille Tseuque
Bivouac de la Sengla

Cabane de Chanrion

Cabane de Chanrion
Aouille Tseuque
Tête Blanche or Tête Blanche de By
Lac de Chanrion (Suisse)
Cabane Chanrion
Aouille Tseuque

Campings

Remember that free camping is forbidden (except for emergency reasons, over 2.500m, from darkness until dawn).

Mountain Conditions

  • You can get meteo information at the official site of the Regione Valle d'Aosta:
    Valle d'Aosta Meteo

Webcam

  • WEBCAM on Aosta Valley:
    Webcam

Books and Maps

BOOKS:
  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali", di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Alpi Pennine" (Vol. I°) di Gino Buscaini-Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, Luglio 1971 (in Italian).
  • "Diari Alpinistici" di Osvaldo Cardellina e Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni Ascensioni 1964-2017 (unpublished).
  • "Guida della Valpelline" de l'Abbè Joseph-Marie Henry - Societè Editrice Valdotaine 1925 II Edition e Collana Reprint Musumeci (1986).
MAPS:
  • Kompass "Breuil Cervinia Zermatt" Sentieri e Rifugi Carta turistica 1:50.000.
  • L'Escursionista "Valpelline, Saint Barthélemy" (carta n°6) 1:25.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale "La Valpelline, Ollomont, Saint Barthélemy", (carta n° 115) Map1:30.000.
  • Carta Nazionale Svizzera "Foglio Valpelline" 1:50.000.

Important Information

Useful numbers

  • Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
  • Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
  • Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

What's new

    Jul 13th, 2017
  • Inherited the page from Andrea.it.

  • Jul 15th, 2017
    Started to modify the page and the other sections.

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