The Mont Velan is situated on the border between the Aosta Valley and the Vallese (Switzerland). The mountain, like others summits (Monte Rosa, Gran Paradiso, Monte Bianco), is quite different in it's various routes and sides. The south-east side is a wall that fells down on the shell of By, the nord side has a big glacier, that brings to the round summit; it's a ski mountaneering route and the "normal" to the top; the south west side is ride, but has the small Velan glacier.
The Mont Velan was climbed for the first time in the year 1779, by a religious of the Ospizio del Gran San Bernardo, together with some hunters. The north face was climbed by the best climber ice, that traced here a few routes.
Mont Velan area map (1:50000)
The mountain is located between Italy and Switzerland, and can be climbed from different sides.
Valsorey Pass: from Aosta town, take the road that brings to the Gran San Bernardo Pass, after a while turn right, s.s. 27 direction Valpelline, in Valpelline follow Ollomont-Glassier, and here you can park.
Glacier du Velan: from Aosta town, take the road that brings to the Gran San Bernardo Pass, after Etroubles turn right and drive a small road till Prailles Dessus
Cabane du Velan: along the road Aosta-Martigny, in Switzerland, quite close to the beginning of the Gran San Bernardo tunnel, in Bourg Saint Pierre, right side if you come from Italy, starts the small road that brings to a parking area.
When To ClimbSki mountaneering: in spring
Normal route to the top, from June to September
ITALY: new Rosazza bivouac (at the place of the old Savoy bivouac 2551m), before the Valsorey Pass
SWITZERLAND: Cabane du Velan, (2569m).
MAPS - BOOKSETAS KOMPASS 1:50.000 - Massiccio del Monte Bianco
Books (in italian)
SCI ALPINISMO IN VAL D'AOSTA-Giglio Noussan, edizioni Zanichelli
VALLE D'AOSTA oltre il sentiero-P. e M. Giglio, edizioni CDA