Mont Blanc GROUP
Overview
"Dent du Géant" means "Giant Tooth".
This steep rockpillar can be seen from everywhere in central Mont Blanc region. Dent du Géant is a Grandes Jorasses neighbor.
For climbing this peak, local guides have fixed some ropes in the normal route but it is a nice climb with difficulty AD.
Some are recommending to climb the peak in combination with the Rochefortgrat. On your way back from the Aiguille de Rochefort the temperature will be nicer to climb the beautiful peak. [Route overview: Col Du Géant (3365m) - Dent du géant foot (3830m) - Aiguille de Rochefort (4001m) - Dent Foot (3830m) - Dent Du Géant (4013m)].
The S face route is a TD route (160 hm on the Dent, 2-3h). From Col du Géant to peak foot, you need 2h.
Getting the starting point of normal route or south face is not like going to climb the Peigne !
A steep slope under the "gengiva" can be very dangerous with ice or unsafe snow ! I remember a rescue to a team that fell down here while descending in a sunny hot summer afternoon ! The acces is really dangerous if the snow is soft. The slope is about 50 deg. !! Start early to find more solide snow...!!!
The Normal route will be re-equiped 09/28 and 10/01 2005
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Getting There
starting point : Rifugio Torino (3371 m) CAI (hut:0165844034; warden:0121954145 & hut:0165846484; warden: 0165842247) 80 beds, always open, warden during the season
books : Eberlein Hartmunt: Mont Blanc Gruppe - Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Kletterer". Bergverlag Rother, Ottobrunn, 2000. ISBN: 3-7633-2414-3. 9. edition. 2000. 459 pages, 50 b/w and 23 colour photos & 30 route maps, 2 colour maps. 15 cm Kunststoff.
Rebuffat Gaston: The Mont Blanc Massif: the 100 Finest Routes. Baton Wicks Publications, 1996. ISBN: 1-898573-03-4.
Red Tape
Climbing is free. Local guides have priority to climb with their customers.
When To Climb
summer
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Camping
Campings and hotels in Chamonix and Courmayeur.
First ascents
SW summit (4009m) : July 29 1882 : Jean Joseph Maquignaz, Baptiste
Maquignaz, Daniel Maquignaz, guides, Alessandro Sella, Alfonso Sella, Coradino Sella Gaudenzio Sella.
NE summit (4014m) : August 20 1882 A. Payot, A. Cupelin, W.W. Graham
S face: July 28 1935 : M. Burgasser, R Leitz
Western side
Views taken from col du Géant or Petiti Flambeau
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South-west side
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Southern side
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Northern side
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North-west side
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Ascent views
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Close up
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Sunrise and sunset
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External Links
- http://www.cs.berkeley.edu/~qtluong/mountain/index.html
Simply one of the the best web sites on the Chamonix Region. Tuan has climbed most all of the routes he describes.
- Dent du Géant + Aréte du Rochefort
- Dent du Géant at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps
- Mountain Guide Adventure - Chamonix Mont-Blanc Mountain Guide - France
A Mountain Guide team will help you to realize your mountain and adventure dreams . A Mountain Guide team in Chamonix propose : mountaineering, alpine rock climbing, ice climbing, heliskiing, ski touring, off piste skiing and expeditions all over the world.
Additions and Corrections
[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
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| nivagh | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | I feel that the issue of guides having 'priority' on a hill is one that could do with some clarification. Personally, I would not give priority to somebody on a mountain simply because they were a guide. In fact, guides tend to move more slowly than ropes of independent climbers, because they carry so much gear, and sometimes their clients are unfit and inexperienced. Provided that you show the other mountain users respect, and take care not to do anything that could lead to injury or worse, then I believe that everyone an equal 'priority' on the hills. Perhaps you could expand on your statement a little? | |
| Posted Jun 25, 2002 8:21 am | ||
| alkiskond | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | i really agree with you...! The acces is really dangerous if the snow is soft. The slope is about 50 deg. !! Start early to find more solide snow...!!! | |
| Posted Jun 14, 2005 9:46 pm | ||
| alkiskond | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | The most "beautifull" memories of our trip to the refuge Torino are left on the "cheap" rifugio. The small bottle of water costed 2 Euros ! The overnight include breakfast costed 52 Euros...!!! And the hostes (an italian pair) were very unpolite. Even a couple of hikers that came at 02.00 o clock in the morning in the refuge and sleeped on the floor had to pay a full overnight price...!!! | |
| Posted Jun 27, 2005 4:29 pm | ||
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