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Vis and Montaz Group
Area/Range

Vis and Montaz Group

 
Vis and Montaz Group

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Julian Alps, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.43443°N / 13.43662°E

Object Title: Vis and Montaz Group

Elevation: 9036 ft / 2754 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Nov 17, 2004 / Sep 5, 2009

Object ID: 153357

Hits: 13120 

Page Score: 91.45%  - 35 Votes 

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What's New On This Page?

January 1st, 2007 - Links to the new page inserted: Cima delle Cenge / Visoka polica
> December 17th, 2006 - Links to the new page inserted: Cima Alta di Riobianco / Visoka Bela spica
> April 24th, 2006 - Some more pictures linked.
> October 5th, 2005 - Links to a new page inserted: Iof di Sompdogna / Krniska Glavica / Koepfach.
> September 27th, 2005 - Links to a new page inserted: Monte Nabois Grande / Veliki Nabojs.
> September 20th, 2005 - Links to a new page inserted: Monte Piper / Pipar. Some pictures linked.
> February 4th, 2005 - Links to a new page inserted: Monte Cimone / Strma pec.
> November 17th, 2004 - Initial set up of the page.

The Purpose of This Page

On this page I would like to give an overview information of Vis & Montaz subgroup (Julian Alps), in order not to be repeated on all distinct summit pages. The map below links you to distinct summit pages on SummitPost! Regarding pictures and routes, this page is the place only for overall information.

Overview


Vis and Montaz group from north, from Ojstrnik in Carnic Alps.

Names on this page are written in more than one language - Italian, Slovenian, in some cases also German. Probably also this is not the most adequate, because in this are also Furlani live. And in recent times their language is more and more spoken and written.

Montaz from north-westVis & Montaz group is named here after two giants of Julian Alps and the most prominent mountains of this group: Iof Fuart / Vis / Wishberg, 2666m, and Iof di Montasio / Montaz, 2754m. This is one of the most beautiful groups of Julian Alps. On a relative small territory a group of wonderful summits stands, having almost all the superlatives, which are in the rest of Julian Alps found on separate places. Mountains are rising very high above valleys and vertical lines are predominant. Many of them are almost artistically shaped. There are remote regions, where hardly any mountaineer's foot steps, some lower summits in the western part probably wait for human visits for many years. So these mountains also have, what we in Slovenia call a 'Trenta feeling' - you find yourself on a steep, grassy and rocky slope or airy ridge, you can't proceed safely any more, it's not for belaying, it's not for living, nor for dying. This was the arena for the mountaineering legends from 100 years ago, like the wild Osvaldo Pesamosca and others. Even now life there is hardly any different than in those times. The incredible beauty stays the same, the poverty of rare people, perseverating in valleys - the same, legends - the same. What is perhaps missing in these mountains and other Julian Alps have, is the broad, dreamy landscape of Komna and Triglav lakes, and, as the famous Julius Kugy said - Triglav. In last years of his life he was living here, in Valbruna / Ovcja ves, and when asked, which part of Julian Alps he preferred his famous answer was, that, yes, the western part could be greater - if in the eastern part there were no Triglav. Nothing can compare with Triglav.

Geographically the group is bound with Fella valley on west and north, Raccolana valley on south and Rio del Lago on east. It Consists of two major mountain chains, the stronger south chain and the weaker north one.

Starting from east we have first on the north two stand-alone mountains: Monte Re with its mines above Rabelj and Cima del Cacciatore, a perfect panoramic summit.

Jof Fuart / Vis group from north-eastJof Fuart / Vis group from north-westSouth-east of these the Iof Fuart / Vis group stands. This is a true forrest of sharp, high peaks, separated by narrow notches and wild ravines, leading into them. A true eldorado for climbers, seeking difficulties of any range. Vis area is also very elaborated for the ordinary mountaineering. There are many mountain huts and bivouacs, and a dense network of marked paths is connecting them and reaching also many summits. Details have to be left for the distinct summit pages, here's only a few more general characteristics. From Cima del Cacciatore towards SW a wild chain of Lastovice stretches - no marked paths to summits. Another long chain is coming to the centre of the group from E - again marked paths go mainly over saddles and not to summits. The third chain is coming from SE - its highest peak Cima Alta di Riobianco is one of the hardest summits in the group to reach. Just east of Iof Fuart / Vis a small subgroup stands, consisting of Cima di Riofredo, Innominata and Madri dei Camosci. A nice ferrata is traversing below theim, but summits can be reached only by climbing. Iof Fuart / Vis, Nabojs and Cime Castrein can be reached by marked routes.
Valle di Riofreddo / Dolina Mrzle Vode
Mountains above Valle di Riofreddo


The long crest of Iof di Montasio / Montaz has a much different character. A long wall goes from SE towards NW and its altitudes don't vary much. Distinct summits are not so important as the whole structure. Except Montaz itself, of course. One of the most beautiful mountains in Julian Alps!

From Montaz's summit the main crest goes first towards SW and then all the time towards west. In its mid part, there's the third 'most important' summit of the whole group: Monte Cimone. And more towards west it seems like a 'complete unknown'. Only one marked path, crossing broad slopes, no famous peaks, but a broad, wild unknown area. Any information of these summits will be highly appreciated!

The northern chain is lower and less impressive. Itself, but it offers great views on the main group. All its main summits can be reached by marked routes. Ascents are not hard, only the crossing of the whole chain could be tricky on some rocky, exposed places.

Subgroups, Summits and Their Characteristics

Jof di Dogna, 1961mMonte Schenone, 1950mMonte Sechieiz o Berda, 1839mDue Pizzi / Dve spici / Zweispitz, 2008m, 2046mM. Piper / Piparji, 2069mIof di Miezegnot / Poldanasnja spica / Mittagskofel, 2087mJovet Blanc, 1940m
Mucul, 2055mMonte Cimone / Strma pec, 2380mMonte Zabus / Zabus, 2244mCurtissons, 2240mJof di Montasio / Spik nad policami / Montaz, 2754mJof di Sompdogna / Krniska Glavica / Koepfach, 1891mCima di Terra Rossa / Spik Hude Police, 2420mModeon del Buinz / Spik nad Spranjo, 2558mPunta Plagnis / Spice v Planji, 2411mCime Castrein / Kostrunove spice / kastreinspitzen, 2502mJof Fuart / Vis / Wischberg, 2666mMonte Nabois Grande / Veliki Nabojs, 2313mMadri dei Camosci / Gamsova Mati / Hohe Gamsmutter, 2518mCima di Riofreddo / Divja Koza / Kaltwasser Gamsmutter, 2507mCima Alta di Riobianco / Visoka Bela spica, 2257mVetta Bella / Lepa Glava, 2049mCima delle Cenge/Visoka polica, 2007mCima Piccola della Scala/Mala Lojtrca, 2099mVette Scabre, 1900mCime Vergini / Zadnje Lastovice, 2000m, 2044m, 2150mCime delle Rondini / Prednje Lastovice, 1845m, 1905m, 1919m, 1954m, 1877mCima del Cacciatore / Kamniti Lovec / Steinerne Jaeger, 2071mMonte Re / Kraljeva spica, 1912m
Vis & Montaz Subgroup interactive map: Hoover over summit marks to see mountain names, click on them to get SummitPost pages!


Iof Fuart / Vis subgroup


Vis group, seen from the East.

Monte Re / Kraljeva spica, 1912m. Marked path. Cima del Cacciatore / Kamniti Lovec / Steinerne Jaeger, 2071m. Marked paths. Ski tour. Great panorama.
Cime delle Rondini / Prednje Lastovice, 1845m, 1905m, 1919m, 1954m, 1877m. Rugged, hardly reachable summits south of Cima del Cacciatore / Kamniti Lovec Cime Vergini / Zadnje Lastovice, 2000m, 2044m, 2150m. Hardly reachable, tower mountains north of Cima di Riofreddo / Divja Koza.
Cime delle Cenge / Visoka polica, 2002m. Rarely ascended mountain above Valle di Riofreddo. Marked path till the notch, 1820m, then easy climb (marked), UIAA II/I. Nice climbs in the south wall. Vetta Bella / Lepa Glava, 2049m. Nice panoramic mountain between Balle di Riofreddo and Riobianco valley. Marked routes (but not just easy) from both valleys.
Cima del Vallone / Krniška špica, 2368m. Not marked, easy normal ascent (I.-II.). Wonderful classic climb in the north wall. Cima Alta di Riobianco / Visoka Bela špica, 2257m. One of the hardest reachable summits in the group. Medium hard normal ascent(III-/II). Wonderful classic climb over the North Butress.
Cima di Riofreddo / Divja Koza / Kaltwasser Gamsmutter, 2507m. Not marked, easy climb for normal ascent (-II). Great classic climbs in the north wall, some also in the east wall. Madri dei Camosci / Gamsova Mati / Hohe Gamsmutter, 2518m. Not marked, easy climb for normal ascent (I.)
Monte Nabois Grande / Veliki Nabojs, 2313m. Marked routes from the east and west. Nice, panoramic scramble by the east ridge. Alpinistic skiing possible just from below the summit. Cime Castrein / Kostrunove špice / Kastreinspitzen, 2502m. Ridge mountain, connecting Viš group with Montaž group. Marked route. Rests from the World War I.
Iof Fuart / Viš / Wischberg, 2666m. The highest summit of the subgroup, one of the two landmarks of the whole group. Strong and high fortress. Marked routes, good climbs, ski tours from the notches, alpinistic skiing from the top. The mountain hosts one of the most unusual routes - The Bands of Gods encircles the whole mountain.    

Iof di Montasio / Spik nad policami / Montaz subgroup


  Cregnedul / Krni dol, 2351m. Marked route. Punta Plagnis / Spice v Planji, 2411m. Marked route.
  Cima de la Puartate / Niznji vrhovi, 2436m. Marked route. Modeon del Buinz / Špik nad Špranjo, 2558m. Marked route.
Foronon del Buinz / Špik nad Nosom, 2531m. Marked route. Cime Gambon / Špik nad Tratico, 2405m. Not marked, scramble.
Cima della Terra Rossa / Špik Hude Police, 2420m. Easy, marked route. Modeon del Montasio / Špik nad Plazom, 2573m. Hardly reachable.
Vert Montasio / Vrh Brda, 2661m. Marked route and scramble. Iof di Montasio / Špik nad policami / Montaž, 2754m. The highest and most magnificent mountain in the group. From Dogna valley rising more than 2200m. Marked routes, some hard ferratas. Classic climbs. Hard alpinistic skiing from the top.
Iof di Sompdogna / Krniška Glavica / Koepfach, 1891m. The summit above Sompdogna / Rudni vrh pass. Easilly reachable by a marked path.    


Monte Cimone / Strma pec subgroup


Curtissons, 2240m. Not marked, easy climb (I.) and scramble. Monte Zabus / Zabus, 2244m. Not marked, easy climb (I.) and scramble.
Monte Cimone / Strma peč, 2380m. Nice, rocky summit, the highest in the subgroup. High walls with climbs. One quite easy marked route and one harder and long ferrata.   Iof di Goliz, 2288m.
  Mucul, 2055m.   Cuc di Valisetta, 2090m.
  Iovet Blanc, 1940m.   Iof di Mezdi, 1911m.


Catena di Malborghetto / Naborjetske gore


Iof di Miezegnot / Poldanašnja špica / Mittagskofel, 2087m. Marked route, many rests from the World War I. Nice panorama. Monte Piper / Pipar, 2069m. A three-headed, rugged peak. Marked route from the East (harder) and the West.
Due Pizzi / Dve špici / Zweispitz, 2008m, 2046m. Nice panorama, many rests from the World War I. Marked routes. Monte Sechieiz o Berda, 1839m.
Monte Schenone / Lipnik, 1950m. Marked path. Great view on Montaž. Iof di Dogna / Dunjski vrh, 1961m. Remote, lonesome summit on the western part of the crest. Marked path.

Mountaineering Highlights

 
 Vis and Montaz group seen...
Velebit - Vis and Montaz group from the East

If you climb harder routes then come to Pellarini hut. In north walls of Vis subgroup you will find nice climbs. The other destination is Valle di Riobianco, where Brunner hut and Gorizia bivouac support nice climbs in solid rock of the neighbouring mountains. Also Montaz and Monte Cimone can offer some harder climbs.

If you like exposed paths, ferratas and if you're also not afraid of easy climbing (up do degree II) this group is just for you. You can hardly find a greater tour than crossing Montaz. Vis ascent is fine too. A specialty of this group are long ferratas, crossing the whole mountain crests. Sentiero Goitan will lead you safely by the most beautiful ledges of the Vis group. By it you will cross the whole central part of Vis subgroup. Ceria Merlone will lead you over the whole crest of Montaz subgroup - allmost all the time on top of it, from the very SE to the summit of Montaz. Nice (very panoramic) is the route, crossing the whole Northern chain. Also many routes on distinct summits are fine - see them on other SP pages.

If you just want to make a short hike to a panoramic summit, choose Cima del Cacciatore or Iof di Miezegnot.

For tour skiing Vis & Montaz group is not the best suited. The prevailing vertical character of summits, rocky peaks, even too steep southern slopes - all this doesn't allow easy tour skiing. Cima del Cacciatore offers a nice short ski tour, also slopes above the Brazza hut (above Altipiano del Montasio), some ends of northern valleys - and that's more or less all. Yet, for the best skiers there's one specialty. From Spranja basin to the main summit by Modeon del Buins the longest couloir of Julian Alps ascends. It has 700m of altitude, is 40-45 degrees steep, has a hard exit and can be done only when there's no danger of avalanches.

A Glimpse in the History

In the distant past the high pastures of Altipiano di Montasio were far more important for local people and were also a matter of dispute between the people leaving on the south and on the north. The area of alpine pastures was two time bigger as it is today and more than 5000 cattle were kept there. Disputes were known already in the 13th century and lasted in a way till the World War I.

A good example is the raid which happened in 1582. Some 200 men from the surroundings of Tarvisio stole a 600 headed herd of cattle from Atipiano meadows. Later Friulani people revenged and cut down the most beautiful trees in the Rio del Lago valley.

The Legend Of Giuseppe Pesamosca

 
Vis & Montaz group
Vlado Vujisic - From the East

In mountaineering circles the name of Osvaldo Pesamosca is well known. He was one of the legendary native guides of the famous explorer and poet of Julian Alps, Julius Kugy. At the end of 18th and start of 19th century Osvaldo Pesamosca was a true expert, the most complete guide of Furlania of his time.

But less is known of his grandfather, Giuseppe Pesamosca. Winds of Western Julian Alps are still whispering only legends of this incredible man. He was living in the small village of Stretti, situated on a terrace above Raccolana valley. This is a wild place among vertical cliffs, steep meadows and high above the deep throat of Raccolana river bed. In 1859 Giuseppe was called into Austrian army, but refused the service and so became an outlaw against his will. He had to leave his home. Nobody knows how long, but several years (perhaps till 1866 or even longer) he was living like a wild man high on his beloved mountains. Smuggling, hunting, hiding in places which only he knew, high below the peaks of Jof Fuart, Montaz and Canin. He was living like a hermit, sleeping in small niches, on narrow ledges, below the abysses of Spragna and so became a prototype of what later became a proverbial character of the 'dark Pesamosca of Raccolana valley'. People saw him only rarely, coming down in valleys to resupply. Legends of this strange man soon arised, his nickname Lòuf (wolf) was inherited by his descendants who were proudly wearing it and they obviousely inherited also his mountaineering skills. According to Kugy, Giuseppe Pesamosca later went in America, where he also died.

The Pesamosca line was dominating their wild mountains so much, that still today the saying is heard: "Dove il Lòuf è passato si può ancora passare, ma dove il Lòuf non è passato non si passerà mai". This would approximately mean: "Where the Lòuf has made it, it can be made again, but where the Lòuf hasn't made it, it can't (will not) be made!"

Getting There

For the broader orientation (highways, railways, airports, ...) see the Eastern Alps GROUP page, and, because this is only a subgroup page, the Julian Alps page.

On the map above you can see, that besides all the roads around the group, you can use a few (yellow ones) going into the group:

From Sella Nevea you can reach the parking place on Altipiano del Montasio, 1502m.
Through Dogna valley you can reach the Sella di Sompdogna pass, 1300m.
From Pietratagliatta in Fella valley you can reach Malga Poccet, 1350m (north of Iof di Dogna).
Through Valbruna valley you can reach the end parking place at 1004m.

All the above roads are toll free. Other roads are closed for public traffic. Some more important for mountaineering are on the map drawn in white. Some are only cart-roads, but could be used for mountain biking.

Monte Santo di Lussari can be reached by a cable-car.

For some tourist information see the Tarvisio tourist page.

Red Tape

There's no red tape in these mountains. Doesn't matter anyway - we should preserve nature in any case.

When To Climb

Months with the most stable weather are usually from July to October. For tour skiing the best months are from March to May.

For weather see Wunderground - Tarvisio.

Huts and Camping

 
Modeon del Montasio
ClaudioNC - Montaž group

(1) Rif. Guido Brunner, 1380m. In Val Riobianco. From the main road in Val Rio del Lago 1h 15min.
(2) Bivacco Gorizia, 1950m. In Val Riobianco. From the main road in Val Rio del Lago 3h.
(3) Rif. G. Corsi, 1845m, 0428.2013, 040.390025, 0428-68113. South of Iof Fuart. From Sella Nevea pass or from the main road in Val Rio del Lago 3h.
(4) Rif. Divisione Julia - Nevea, 1142m. Accessible by car.
(5) Rif. Pellarini, 1500m, 0428-60135. From Saissera 2h.
(6) Biv. D. Mazzeni, 1825m. In Spragna basin. From Saissera 2h.
(7) Rif. Brazza, 1670m, 0432-797079. On Altipiano del Montasio. From the parking place 15 min.
(8) Rif. Attilio Grego, 1395m, 0428-60111. Above Sella di Sompdogna pass. From the parking place 10 min.
(9) Casera Plan dei Spadovai, 1125m. Above Dogna/Dunja road. Tel: 39 0433 70609. Cell: 39 347 9617215.
(10) Biv. C. Stuparich, 1650m. Below Montaz N wall. From Saissera 2h.
(11) Biv. Suringar, 2450m. On the big ledge in Montaz W wall. From Altipiano del Montasio parking place 3h 30min.
(12) Biv. Muschi, 1955m. Above the wild Clapadorie gorge (below Montaz W wall). From the road in Dogna 3h 30min.
(13) Biv. M. Cimone, 2040m. On the summit of Monte Cimone. From Altipiano del Montasio parking place 4h.
(14) Biv. Cividale, 1414m. Below the N wall of Monte Cimone. From the road in Dogna 2h 30min.
(15) Biv. Bernardis, 1830m. Below Due Pizzi. From the road in Dogna 2h.
(16) Ricovero Btg. Alpini Gemona, 1890m. Below (SW of) Iof di Miezegnot. From the parking place on Sella di Sompdogna pass 1h 30min.

Maps

 
Vis & Montaz group
 

The two most recommended maps are:

Tabacco, No. 18. Alpi Carniche Orientali, Canal del Ferro. 1:25000
Tabacco, No. 19. Alpi Giulie Occidentali Tarvisiano. 1:25000.

For a broader overview also: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Julijske Alpe - Zahodni del. 1:50000.

Additions and Corrections

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BorUntitled Comment

Bor

Voted 10/10

Hey Vid!





Should I post the photos of mountains that don`t have photos here and you should link it?





Cheers!
Posted Sep 20, 2005 2:26 am
Vid PogachnikUntitled Comment

Vid Pogachnik

Hasn't voted

If you wish. In general it's better if pictures are posted on mountain pages, not on group pages.
Posted Sep 20, 2005 2:18 pm

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