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Julian Alps

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Julian Alps

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Julian Alps, Italy/Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.38000°N / 13.85000°E

Object Title: Julian Alps

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Bouldering, Ice Climbing, Aid Climbing, Via Ferrata, Canyoneering, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 9397 ft / 2864 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Dec 26, 2003 / Mar 22, 2013

Object ID: 152184

Hits: 93604 

Page Score: 99.67%  - 126 Votes 

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Julian Alps from the north, from Jerebikovec (Mežaklja). The long valley on the left is Krma. Mountains left above it form a long crest above Pokljuka plateau (it's on the other side of the crest): Debela peč, Lipanski vrh, Mali Draški vrh, Veliki Draški vrh and Tosc. The triple summit in the middle is actually the whole central part of Triglav group. Left is Rjavina, in the middle (but quite back) is the throne-like Triglav, on the right is Cmir. The right part of the picture Razor/Prisojnik group and Martuljek group mountains form. They are named here.

Intro

 
Triglav from the south
Triglav across Bohinj valley

Slovenian characters.

When reading Slovenian words on maps or in books, you will find special characters for ch, sh, and zh. They are written with c, s and z with a caron - little v above them - like this: č, š, ž.

What's new on this page?

Feb 9, 2013 - SP V3 design updates.

> Jan 9, 2010 - A chapter of fore-hills updated.

> Jun 26, 2009 - A major page upgrade: Descriptions broadened, best pictures embedded, links checked and updated.

> Feb 3, 2008 - The fore-hills chapter inserted.

> Dec 10, 2006 - Links to the new page inserted: Vrsaki

> Dec 10, 2006 - Interactive map updated.

"I have only one or two days!"

 
Iof de Miezegnot summit view
Inversion
 
Martuljek group from Srednji vrh
Martuljek group

Those who want to spend holidays climbing in Julian Alps will hopefully read this page further on and find useful hints here. But it happens that people have a chance to come close to a mountain area only for a day or two. How to use them best?

You're fit to hike & climb a whole long day.

Drive in Vrata valley and do the ascent on Triglav.

You'd rather do a shorter ascent and combine it with sightseeing.

Get a car. Drive in Vrata valley to see Triglav. Drive out and along the northern side of Julian Alps to Kranjska Gora, then on Vršič pass. Ascend from there the summit of Prisojnik (round tour). Drive down in Trenta valley and sleep there. The second day continue through Trenta, then over Predel pass. If really keen, you can drive on Mangart saddle and even ascend Mangart (round tour). Continue in Italy and north around the Julian Alps back to Slovenia.

You can get further ideas about Julian Alps highlights seeing the album: Famous Julian Alps Views.

Overview

 
Jalovec from Sleme
Jalovec
 
Inseparable
Velebit - Mangart and Jalovec
 
Jalovska Skrbina and Jalovec
Gangolf Haub - Jalovec


On the south-east European Alps (see also Alps - Eastern part GROUP page) could not finish more beautifully as they do with the group of Julian Alps. They are named after the ancient Roman province. West of them lie Carnic Alps and north, beyond Sava valley Karavanke/Karawanken. On the east and south are forehills, where Alps are connected with the long Dinarides chain. And on the southwest the plane of rive Po lies.

Julian Alps are mostly characterised by high, rugged peaks, deeply carved valleys and giant limestone walls above them. They are the collosus of Triglav, the wilderness of Martuljek or Viš and Montaž group, they are other high mountains, each a kingdom of its own. Julian Alps are also the broad high karst plateaus of Kanin or a lower, never-smiling landscape of Komna and the Valley of Triglav Lakes. And Julian Alps is also Soča river, with its emerald blue color, unparalelled on the whole world. Human language and the photography technique has still not evolved enough to describe them. You need to come and experience them!

The story of Julian Alps

 
Mangart from the north
Mangart
 
Montaz summit from Dogna/Dunja
Montaž
 
Komna winter magic
Velebit - Komna
Doesn't matter from which side you approach Julian Alps, the group is inviting you with its dominance. From the fore-hills of Slovenia, down to the Adriatic coast, they appear as a high, white limestone group with the all surpassing king Triglav in the middle of it. You understand why among our ancestors Triglav was considered to be the seat of gods. If you're coming from the rest of Alps, from the west or from the north, the mountains of Julian Alps distinguish from other mountains with their wilderness and high walls, towering above a much lower surroundings. Let's see what a mountain fan can find there!

Approaching Julian Alps from the SE, from Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, you notice how the landscape becomes more and more various. The famous Bled lake, the one with the island and the church on it and the castle on a high rock above the shore, is known worldwide. And deeply among the mountains there's naturally even better preserved, silent Bohinj lake, a world of its own kind. The main valley of Sava leads you along the northern border of Julian Alps. You can enter the heart of Triglav group through one of long valleys: Krma, Kot, Vrata. The latter brings you just below one of the broadest and highest walls in Eastern Alps - the famous Triglav North Wall. Almost 1800 meters higher is the king's head and more than 5000 meters broad is the wall.

But you even don't need to enter deep valleys if you want to admire the most famous views on Julian Alps peaks and walls. Being aware of their beauty, the summits of Martuljek group are posing just above the main valley of Sava river. That is one of the most aesthetic mountain compositions in the whole arc of Alps.

In Kranjska Gora a road, made in World War I, goes towards the south, over Vršič pass. That's one of the most beautiful car trips in the area, but also a motor bike trip and a usual bike trip. The scenery is changing again and again. The western walls of Škrlatica group are especially nice in evenings, and the colossus of Prisojnik is watching down on you with its one eye - the famous rock window in its NW wall. Over Vršič you enter another world - a remote, but also wild Trenta valley with its rich mountaineering history from the pioneering times and its slight southern air flare. We shall return there, let's continue now along the northern border of Julian Alps.

High mountains and deep valleys appear one after another. The famous Planica valley, the one where world records in ski-flying have been achieved for several last decades, ends with the sharp crystal-shaped mountain - Jalovec. Then the norhern walls of Mangart massif come, with a valley, guarding two beautiful lakes. On the other side of Tarvisio the same picture - the wild, rugged group of Viš and Montaž, where some of the highest mountains of Julian Alps are located. Only then the view on giants is obscured from the main valley, because a front range of less attractive peaks is rising above it.

At Pontebba we are on the very NW corner of Julian Alps. A deep canyon is cut towards the south, dividing Julian Alps from the neighbouring Carnic Alps. Driving by a highway there, you will miss most of the attractive views, but to reach the popular mountaineering sites, you must anyway enter the deep valleys, which are cut into the Julian Alps massif from the west. The first such valley is Dogna. It brings you below the W wall of Montaž - another one of the most astonishing views in the region. Raccolana valley brings you on Sella Nevea, a saddle, dividing Viš group and Kanin group. Other valleys more to the south are cut in the fore-Alps already.

The fore-Alps are interesting for their long, tenths of kilometers stretching ridges. Hiking them in early summer, when they are blossoming in all colours is most rewarding, but those tours also take you more than just one day.

Let's return in the heart of Julian Alps again. We shall go from the south, along the emerald blue river of Soča. Its colour is unique in Europe and the higher you get, the more beautiful is its valley. It is winding through the fore-hills of Julian Alps, on the right you see the high Krn group and on the left soon the massif of Kanin. Kanin is another unique group. Nowhere else the high mountain karst is so developed as on Kanin. There are the deepest caves and the high plateaus of those mountains look on some places like a barren Moon surface. All water disappears deep underground.

The upper part of Soča valley is called Trenta. Some 150 years ago the poor people there were unsurpassable climbers (starting with wild-hunting, of course). The famous pioneer Julius Kugy found among them his best guides, who took him as the first climber on many Julian Alps summits. And not only Julian Alps. It was only a matter of logistic and costs why Kugy did not engage Trenta guides more often also for endeavous in other Alps areas. When he was in the Central Alps, not prioritised at the best local guides, he used to write in his memory book: "We would succeed if I had with me my brave guides from Trenta...". Nowadays Trenta is still remote, offering true adventures to those who attempt some of its wildest areas.

We are almost around the group. I'd like to mention just one more area - the dreamy, beautiful Valley of Triglav Lakes and the nearby Komna plateau. The "land which can not smile", Kugy described it. High mountain lakes among the last larches, rugged karst around and silence, as soon as you go off the main Triglav hiking route. Equally, if not more beautiful in winter and spring, when it turns into a sea of snow-covered hills.

Subgroups

Mangart & JalovecMartuljekTriglavBohinjKrnPrisojnik & RazorVis & MontazJulian Pre-AlpsKanin/Canin
Julian Alps interactive map: Point on red numbers to see subgroup names, click on them to get SummitPost pages!
Some altitude points in Julian Alps
Altitudes


Roughly Julian Alps are divided into the western and the eastern part. The line between the two broad groups goes by the river Soča, over the Predel Pass and up to Tarvisio. But for practical purposes it is useful to divide Julian Alps to more than just two groups. One possibility is to form the following nine groups, all of them have their SummitPost pages (numbers refer to areas on the picture):

Here referred groups of Julian Alps are: (1) Triglav group, (2) Bohinj group, (3) Krn group, (4) Kanin group, (5) Viš and Montaž group, (6) Mangart and Jalovec group, (7) Razor and Prisojnik group, (8) Martuljek group and (9) Julian forealps. The links to distinct summit pages are below.

1. Triglav group

See more information on the Triglav Subgroup page!


Triglav subgroup from the NE, from Karavanke range.

On the north-west the border is: Vrata valley, Luknja Pass, Zadnjica valley. Towards the south, beyond Mišelj valley and Hribarice plateau the Bohinj group lies. Triglav is the highest summit in Julian Alps, a mighty colossus and sacred mountain of Slovenian people as well. Several beautiful peaks stand around it and to the group also a somewhat remote chain of mountains above Pokljuka plateau belongs.

 
A self-made interactive map...
Triglav group map

Important peaks:
2864m Triglav. Ferratta. Huge north wall with many routes. Excellent panorama.
2568m Kanjavec. Easy path. North wall. Excellent skiing from the summit. Nice panorama.
2538m . A ridge mountain near Kredarica.
2532m Rjavina. Ferratta. North and east wall - in the latter Veliki Pršivec and Teme wall.
2464m Miseljski konec. Nice summit above Hribarice plateau. A fine scramble ridge tour from/to Miselj vrh.
2461m Begunjski vrh. Summit close to Triglav. Easy scramble. Dangerous skiing from the top. Nice view on Triglav.
2406m, 2299m Visoka and Spodnja Vrbanova špica. A sharp peak and a saw-like ridge above Kot valley. Nice ferrata.
2393m Cmir. Nice hike over a panoramic ridge. Fine panorama.
2350m Mišelj vrh. Easy scramble, not marked. Nice summit in the middle of Triglav's world.
2275m Tosc. Steep grassy normal ascent, not marked. North wall. Skiing from the summit. Nice panorama.
2243m Veliki Draški vrh. Easy scramble, not marked. North wall. Excellent skiing from the summit. Nice panorama.
2225m Vernar. A nice panorama mountain, closing Krma valley. Normal ascent is easy climb of UIAA I.
2194m Vršac. Only a shoulder of Kanjavec, but great wall for long hard climbs.
2132m Mali Draški vrh. The sharpest peak above Pokljuka plateau. Scramble to the top, hard skiing descent.
2084m Zadnjiški Ozebnik. Great panorama over the Trenta world on all higher mountains around you.
2050m Viševnik. Short and fast ascent by a steep marked path. Skiing from the summit. Excellent panorama.
2015m Debela peč. Easy marked path. North wall. Skiing from the summit. Excellent panorama.

Mountain huts of Slovenian Mountaineering Association:

(1) Blejska koča na Lipanci, 1630m, (050) 633769, (050) 611903,
(2) Kovinarska koča v Krmi, 870m, (050) 631989,
(3) Vodnikov dom na Velem polju, 1817m, (050) 615621,
(4) Zasavska koča na Prehodavcih, 2071m, (050) 614781,
(5) Tržaška Koča na Doliču, 2151m, (050) 614780,
(6) Dom Planika, 2401m, (04)5744069, (050) 614773,
(7) Triglavski dom na Kredarici, 2515m, (04) 2023181,
(8) Staničev dom, 2332m, (050) 614772,
(9) Aljažev dom v Vratih, 1015m, (04) 5891030, (031) 384011, (031) 384013,
(10) Dom v Vojah, 690m, (04) 57 23 213, (051) 308 959,
(11) Planinska koča na Uskovnici, 1154m, (031) 341 814.

2. Bohinj group

See more information on the Bohinj Subgroup page!


Mountains above Bohinj lake.

The world around unspoiled Bohinj lake is archaic. In this valley, from all sides surrounded by high mountains in past the civilized world ended. Above the lake there are broad areas: high carst plateau named Komna, The high Valley of Triglav Lakes and dark woods north of Bohinj lake, with places where men's foot probably still didn't step. The whole area is surrounded by The South Bohinj Range and by several ranges of high mountains on north and west.

 
A self-made map of Bohinj...
Bohinj group map

Important peaks:
2448m Vršaki. Hundreds of Triglav visitors are passing them, rarely who scrambles up.
2398m Veliko špičje. High peak in the ridge between The Valley of Triglav Lakes and Trenta. Ferratta. Nice panorama.
2390m Debeli vrh. Mighty fat summit in the middle of nowhere of Bohinj's world. Hard ski route from the fore-summit.
2327m Vogli (Zadnji Vogel). A deserted, round ridge in the middle of Bohinj mountain world.
2320m Zelnarica. A sharp cone above the lake. Marked hike-up and very nice ski tour.
2309m Skednjovec. A sharp peak with two nice ridges to scramble up.
2190m Kopica. A 'nugget' on the crest above the Valley of Triglav Lakes. Marked path.
2091m Tičarica. Home-summit of the hut at Triglav Lakes. West wall. Skiing from the summit. Nice panorama.
2087m Ogradi. A grassy ridge in the middle of Bohinj meadows. Nice panorama.
2019m Kuk. Highest summit in the South Bohinj Range. Nice panorama.
2084m Zadnjiški Ozebnik. A very panoramic mountain already in the middle of Trenta world. Easilly reachable.
2075m Stogi. Typical Bohinj mountains - three peaks to hike and scramble up.
2008m, 1977m, Mahavšček and Bogatin. Two peaks from the fairy tale, part of the South Bohinj Range. Nice for ski tours.
2003m Lanževica. Nice ski tour mountain above the broad Komna plateau.
1966m Rodica. Ideal mountain for ski tours. Nice view.
1922m Vogel. A ridge mountain in the southern chain. Also a nice ski tour.
1892m Velika Ticarica (Trenta). Another very panoramic mountain above Trenta. Path hard to find, but very worthwile.
1844m Črna prst. First higher summit south of Bohinj. Abundance of flora. Nice panorama.
1761m Pršivec. Fine panorama from a mountain just above the lake.
1678m Ratitovec. Almost a fore-hill, far to the east.

Mountain huts of Slovenian Mountaineering Association:

(1) Dom Zorka Jelinčiča na Črni Prsti, 1835m, (05) 38 08 260, (050) 332 071,
(2) Dom na Voglu, 1535m, (04) 5721134,
(3) Koča na Razor planini, 1315m, (05) 3882252, (050) 632720,
(4) Planinski dom pri Krnskih jezerih, 1385m, (05) 3023030,
(5) Koča pri Savici, 653m, (050) 622695,
(6) Dom na Komni, 1520m, (04) 5721475, (050) 611221,
(7) Koča pod Bogatinom, 1513m, (04) 5723213, (050) 621943,
(8) Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih, 1685m, (01)5721475, (050) 615235,
(9) Koča na Planini pri Jezeru, 1453m, (041)901 999, (050) 632738,
(10) Kosijev dom na Vogarju, 1054m, (01)2912297, (050) 613367,
(11) Dom v Vojah, 690m, (04) 57 23 213, (051) 308 959,
(12) Planinska koča na Uskovnici, 1154m, (031) 341 814,
(13) Vodnikov dom na Velem polju, 1817m, (050) 615621,
(14) Zasavska koča na Prehodavcih, 2071m, (050) 614781.


South Bohinj range in its middle part (above Razor planina).

3. Krn group

See more information on the Krn Subgroup page!


Krn group from the East, from Bohinjska vratca (saddle).

The group high above Soča valley, known by great panorama views and tragedies from the World War I.

 
A self-made map of Krn Group....
Krn group map

Important peaks:
2245m Krn. Easy marked path. West wall. Skiing from the summit. Great panorama.
2176m Vrh nad peski. A high cone peak east of Krn and Batognica. Nice ski tour.
2164m Batognica. A plateau-like mountain near Krn, its summit was blown away during the World War I.
2041m Veliki Lemež. Summit above the Krn lake. Steep grass, scramble, not marked.
2013m Škofič. Rarely visited mountain in the SE part. Easy scramble.
1913m Rdeči rob. Remote, panoramic edge of the plateau above Tolminka river valley.
1870m Lipnik. A remote, small group of rugged peaks in the northern part.
1773m Krasji vrh. The highest elevation in the side ridge of Polovnik. Easilly reachable, but remote.

Mountain huts of Slovenian Mountaineering Association:

(1) Gomiščkovo zavetišče na Krnu, 2182m, (05) 3023030, (050) 611363,
(2) Planinski dom pri Krnskih jezerih, 1385m, (05) 3023030,
(3) Dom dr. Klementa Juga v Lepeni, 700m, (05) 3023030, (050) 622719.

4. Kanin group

See more information on the Kanin Subgroup page!


The Kanin group seen from north, from the pass Sella Nevea.

High group of mountains where karst phaenomena are most expressed. These limestone mountains are like Swiss cheese - a heaven for speleologists. Some deepest caves in Europe were discovered in this group. Several of them have vertical drops of more than 1000 meters. being the first barrier on the SW, this group has the highest quantities of rain and snow in Julian Alps. In the past, winters with 7 meters of snow on Kanin were not rare.

 
An interactive map of Kanin...
Kanin group map

Important peaks:
2587m Visoki Kanin / Monte Canin. Ferratta. Great panorama.
2499m Prestreljenik / Monte Forato. Steep marked path. Hard ski tour. Great panorama.
2406m Lopa. Hardly accessible (degree UIAA II)mountain in the main ridge, NE of Prevala. Nice panorama.
2332m Velika Črnelska špica / Cima Confine. A rarely visited ridge mountain. Easy scramble on top.
2324m Žrd / Monte Sart. Remote summit NW of Kanin. Marked path. Nice panorama.
2208m Rombon. Summit high above Soča valley. Marked path. Hard ski tour. Battles in World War I. Nice panorama.
2146m Bela pec/Bila pec. Rising out of the northern plateau. Often visited due to nevea cable car.
2125m Jerebica / Cima del Lago. Lonesome summit high above Koritnica valley. Long, medium hard marked path. North-east wall. Nice panorama.
1721m Skutnik / Monte Guarda. A grassy, easilly reachable mountain south of Kanin.

Mountain huts and bivouacs

(1) Koča na Stolu, 1668m,
(2) Bivouac C.A.I. Manzano,
(3) Dom Petra Skalarja na Kaninu, 2260m, (041) 527-926,
(4) Rif. C. Gilberti, 1850m,
(5) Rif. Divisione Julia - Nevea, 1142m,
(6) Bivouac Marussich, 2050m,
(7) Dom na Predelu, 1154m.

5. Vis and Montaz group

See more information on the Viš and Montaž Subgroup page!


Viš and Montaž group from the north, from Ojstrnik in Carnic Alps.

Magnificient high mountain scenery with wild peaks, high vertical walls and deep valleys.

 
Vis & Montaz Group
Vis & Montaz group map

Important peaks:
2754m Montaž / Iof di Montasio. "Matterhorn of Dogna". Ferrata. North and west wall. Great panorama.
2666m Viš / Iof Fuart. The highest summit in the crown of wild peaks. Ferrata. Great panorama.
2380m Monte Cimone / Strma peč. Medium hard marked path from the SE and a high, hard ferrata from the N. North wall. Nice panorama.
2558m Modeon del Buinz / Špik nad Špranjo. High ridge mountain, climbable by a nice ferrata.
2531m Špik nad Nosom / Foronon del Buinz. High ridge mountain, climbable by a nice ferrata.
2507m Cima di Riofreddo / Divja Koza. A high stronghold in Viš group. Great wall for hard climbs. Reachable by a ferrata and a top scramble.
2502m Cime Castrein / Koštrunove špice. A high ridge mountain near Viš, famous from the World War I.
2463m Innominata. A hardly reachable tower in the narrow Viš group.
2420m Špik Hude Police / Cima di Terrarossa. The easies reachable high mountain in the long range SE of Montaž.
2379m Monte Cimone / Strma peč. A high, remote summit in the W part. Medium hard secured hike-up goes on top.
2313m Monte Nabois Grande / Veliki Nabojs. Standing just in front of Viš north wall. Marked and protected path.
2257m Cima Alta di Riobianco / Visoka Bela Špica. Only for climbers. Nice routes, especially the N ridge.
2240m Monte Zabus / Zabuš. A rarely visited, but not hard ridge mountain, W of Montaž.
2087m Poldnašnja špica / Iof di Miezegnot. Easy marked path. Nice panorama.
2071m Cima del Cacciatore / Kamniti Lovec. Medium hard marked path. Ski tour from below the summit. Great panorama.
2069m Monte Piper / Pipar. A crumbly ridge mountain with a great view on Montaž. Secured paths.
2049m Vetta Bella / Lepa glava. Reachable by a not hard scramble, nice views on Viš mountains.
2046m Due Pizzi / Dve špici / Zweispitz. A two-headed mountain in the northern chain. Great view on Montaž and spectalural ascent routes.
2007m Cima delle Cenge/Visoka polica. Rarely visited (scramble) mountain above Valle di Riobianco. Nice SW wall for climbing.
1984m Pan di Zucchero. An elegant tower between the valleys of Riobianco and Riofredo. Easy climb up.
1950m Monte Schenone / Lipnik. A great panoramic point on the far NW. Quite easy hike-up.
1889m Krniška glavica / Iof di Sompdogna. Short ascent, fine view on Montaž north face.

Mountain huts and bivouacs

(1) Rif. Guido Brunner, 1380m,
(2) Bivacco Gorizia, 1950m,
(3) Rif. G. Corsi, 1845m, 0428.2013, 040.390025, 0428-68113,
(4) Rif. Divisione Julia - Nevea, 1142m,
(5) Rif. Pellarini, 1500m, 0428-60135,
(6) Biv. D. Mazzeni, 1825m,
(7) Rif. Brazza, 1670m, 0432-797079,
(8) Rif. Attilio Grego, 1395m, 0428-60111,
(9) Biv. C. Stuparich, 1650m,
(10) Biv. Suringar, 2450m,
(11) Biv. Muschi, 1955m,
(12) Biv. M. Cimone, 2040m,
(13) Biv. Bernardis, 1830m.

6. Mangart and Jalovec group

See more information on the Mangart & Jalovec Subgroup page!


Mangart/Jalovec group from north, from Karavanke.

The broadest group with high variety. While on the northern part giants with high walls stand, in the southern part there is a world of a different wildernes. Summits above the Trenta valley (upper part of Soča river) are also high above valleys. But they don't offer hard technical climbs. Still this does not mean they are easily ascendable. They are wild, steep, often grassy, with no paths. Special skills are needed to survive there. End of 19th and start of 20th century Trenta's wild hunters were unsurpassed climbers. Many of them were mountain guides of the great explorer of Julian Alps Julius Kugy.

 
An interactive map of...
Mangart & Jalovec group map

Important peaks:
2678m Mangart. Ferrata. High north wall. Nice panorama.
2643m Jalovec. Beautiful. crystal-shape peak. Ferrata. North wall. Nice panorama.
2448m Pelc nad Klonicami. Long approach, hard to ascend. A typical 'Trenta' summit.
2379m Travnik. Scramble, not marked. Great north wall with hard routes (Aschenbrenner).
2376m Kotova špica. Nice sharp peak above Kotovo sedlo (saddle). Can be ascended only by (easy) climbing.
2347m Briceljk. Highest point of Loška stena (wall). Very lonesome. Route hard to find. NW wall. Nice panorama.
2344m Bavški Grintovec. High above Trenta. Ferrata. Great panorama.
2340m Vevnica. Hard accessible mountain with a nice shell shape. Hard ferrata. Nice big walls for harder climbing.
2332m Mojstrovka (Mala). Marked path. Nice ski tour from the summit. North wall. Panorama.
2305m Šite. Famous N wall for hard climbs. No path to the summit.
2274m Visoka Rateška Ponca. Ferrata. Great panorama.
2265m Strmi Strug. Mountain in the middle of the long Ponce chain. Hard to ascend, nice traverse.
2063m Pizzo di Mezzodi / Kopa. Northern outpost in Mangart group. Marked path. Nice panorama.
1911m Slemenova špica. Easy hike. Great panorama.
1653m Svinjak. A sharp landmark in the panorama of Bovec. Steep, but not dangerous access and fine panorama.

Mountain huts and bivouacs

(1) Mihov dom, 1085m,
(2) Koča na Gozdu, 1226m, (050) 626641,
(3) Erjavčeva koča, 1525m, (041) 603-190, (050) 610-031,
(4) Tičarjev dom, 1620m, (050) 634571,
(5) Poštarski dom na Vršiču, 1688m, (01) 500 64 33, (041) 610029,
(6) Dom v Planici, 934m,
(7) Dom v Tamrju, 1108m, (04) 5876055,
(8) Koča pri izviru Soče, 886m, (04) 5866070,
(9) Koča Zlatorog, 622m,
(10) Zavetišče pod Špičkom, 2064m, 04/ 5866070, (041) 543 039,
(11) Mladinski tabor, 710m,
(12) Dom na Predelu, 1154m,
(13) Koča na Mangartskem sedlu, 1906m, (050) 630863,
(14) Biv. Nogara, 1850m,
(15) Rif. Luigi Zacchi, 1380m, 0428.61195,
(16) Kolja jama, 1500m.


In the western part of Mangart group.

7. Razor & Prisojnik group, 8. Martuljek Group

See more information on the Martuljek Subgroup page and Razor and Prisojnik Subgroup page!


Left on the picture, beyond Vrata valley is Triglav, while on the right side is Škrlatica (the high summit) and Martuljek group.

Besides other high, self-standing mountains, Martuljek group is a special pearl. Perhaps the most beautiful part of Julian Alps, standing right above the main Sava valley. The artistic composition of wild, hardly accessible peaks.

 
A self-made map of Martuljek...
Razor, Prisojnik, Škrlatica & Martuljek group map

Important peaks:
2738m Škrlatica. Ferrata. North wall. Great panorama.
2621m Veliki Oltar. Nice routes of easy climb (II. degree). Wild surroundings. Nice panorama.
2602m Velika Ponca. In the middle of the wild Martuljek group. Easy climb and nice view.
2601m Razor. Ferrata. North wall. Great panorama.
2591m Dolkova špica. A nice panoramic mountain 'on the way to' Škrlatica. Marked routes (paths).
2547m Prisojnik. Koloss with two windows. Ferrata. North wall. Nice panorama.
2531m Dovški Križ. Easy climb (I. degree). Wild surroundings. Nice panorama.
2501m Stenar. Medium hard marked path. Skiing from the summit. North wall. Great panorama.
2497m Široka peč. "Accordeon" of Martuljek. Only for climbers. Broad north wall.
2472m Špik. Pearl of Martuljek. medium hard hike-up. North wall. Nice panorama.
2453m Planja. A generous mountain hosting herds of wild goats and one tired rock tower. Very hard climbing routes in its N wall.
2448m Škrnatarica. Hidden mountain above Amfiteater. Steep couloir and easy climb.
2440m Dovški Gamsovec. A side summit near Dolkova špica. Rarely approached.
2419m Pihavec. High grassy and rocky mountain above Zadnjica valley. Nice panorama.
2417m Kukova špica. The easternmost peak of Martuljek group. Steep scramble. Very hard ski tour. Nice panorama.
2410m Križ. A less importand peak where some mountain paths cross. Nice for tour skiing.
2392m Bovški Gamsovec. An unsurpassable viewpoint for Triglav north wall. Nice crossing of the summit.
2284m Frdamane police. High and hard north wall, easy climb from south. Nice view on Špik.
2108m Goličica. Hardly accessible and wild mountain south of Razor. Start of one of the wildest ridges in Julian Alps.
2074m Rušica. Wild peak in the western part of Martuljek group. Only for climbers.

Mountain huts and bivouacs

(1) Aljažev dom, 1015m, (04) 5891030, (031) 384011, (031) 384013,
(2) Bivak IV na Rušju, open,
(3) Bivak II in Velika Dnina, open,
(4) Bivak Za Akom - III, open,
(5) Biv. pod Špikom,
(6) Mihov dom, 1085m,
(7) Koča na Gozdu, 1226m, (050) 626641,
(8) Erjavčeva koča, 1525m, (041) 603-190, (050) 610-031,
(9) Tičarjev dom, 1620m, (050) 634571,
(10) Poštarski dom na Vršiču, 1688m, (01) 500 64 33, (041) 610029,
(11) Koča v Krnici, 1113m, (041) 654339,
(12) Koča Zlatorog, 622m,
(13) Pogačnikov dom, 2050m, (051) 221-319.


Martuljek group from north, from Karavanke/Karawanken.

9. Julian Pre-Alps

See more information on the Julian Prealps page!

Even if called Pre-Alps, some of these summits are still high enough, rugged and hard to be climbed. Towards the SW the whole massif is lowering down to the Po river plane, the hilly landscape is fruitful in lower parts and covered with dense woods on upper parts. The whole area is nice for hiking and biking.

 
Julian Prealps
Julian Pre-Alps group map

Important peaks:

Monte Plauris - Musi range

1958m Monte Plauris / Lopič. From the valley long, marked path. Great panorama.
1906m Monte Lavara / Golz / Javor. A rocky summit in the long ridge, marked, but not just easy ascent from the south.
1818m Monte Cadin. Marked path.
1869m Musi / Muzci. A very sharp and wild mountain range, almost impossible to be crossed. Some discrete points can be reached by marked paths.

Monte Chiampon group

1709m Monte Chiampon / Veliki Karman. Still steep and rugged. Marked path, crossing of the whole ridge. Nice panorama.
1372m Monte Cuarnan / Mali Karman. A panoramic balcony above Gemona.

Kobariški Stol - Gran Monte range

1673m Kobariški Stol / Gran Monte. A long range, south of Kanin. Road almost to the top. Great crossing. Nice ski tour. Nice panorama.

The rest of Julian Pre-Alps group

1005m, Monte Iauar / Javor.
1167m, Monte Joanaz / Ivanac.
1124m, Monte Vogu.
1237m, Meja / Monte Mia.
1641m, Matajur / Mataiur.
1242m, Kuk / Monte Cucco.
812m, Korada.
609m, Sabotin.

Mountain huts and bivouacs

No official huts of mountaineering organizations.

10. The Fore-hills

Crni vrh
Črni vrh in Polhov Gradec hills

See more information on the Julian Alps Forehills page!

On the eastern part, Julian Alps stretch towards the central Slovenia with a hilly landscape. Most of those hills are nice hikes and in winter also ski tour goals. The border with Dinaric Alps is Idrija river valley. The broad area can be divided into 4 groups, but as the northern group around Ratitovec is considered as a prolongation of the South Bohinj Range, let's name only the other 3 areas:

Cerkljansko hribovje (Cerkno Hills. The highest summit is Porezen, 1630 m, on the north. It is an exceptional panoramic pyramid, with steep southern slopes and a bit less steep other slopes. Very popular also for tour skiing.

On the western side of the area is Šentviška planota (plateau) and on the south are a few more hills, popular due to their nice panorama, for example Bevkov vrh, 1051 m.

Škofjeloško hribovje (Škofja Loka Hills. This is a very nice, hilly area between the two rivers: Selška Sora and Poljanska Sora. There are a lot of nice hiking trails, connecting panoramic points and cute villages. The king of those hills is Blegoš, again a big forrested and grassy dome with an excellent panorama.

Polhograjsko hribovje (Polhov Gradec Hills. On the very east, there is a broad area of lower hills, stretching just to Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. A few mountains exceed a little the altitude of 1000 meters, all of them being nice panoramic points. The highest is Tošč, 1021 m.

Idrijsko hribovje (Idrija Hills). Finally a part of hills around Idrija also belongs to Julian Alps Forehills.

Getting There

By plane. The nearest airport (6o km away) is near Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia.

By bus. From Ljubljana towards Kranjska gora, from Gorizia towards Bovec, from Udine towards Tarvisio.

By train. Ljubljana - Jesenice, Jesenice - Bohinj - Tolmin - Gorizia, Udine - Tarvisio.

By car.
From Ljubljana: Highway towards Jesenice, then ordinary road to Kranjska Gora.
From Austria: Through Karavanke tunnel or over Koren pass (Wurzen Pass) into Sava valley, highway to Tarvisio.
From Udine: Highway to Tarvisio.
From Trieste/Gorizia: By Soča valley to Bovec.

Mountain passes over Julian Alps:

 
Vrsic Pass, 1611m is the main...
Vršič pass

Vršič, 1611m. The road connects Soča valley (Bovec) with Sava valley (Kranjska Gora). Opened from end of May (depends very much of snow) till firs snow fall (usually in December).

Predel, 1156m. The road connects Soča valley (Bovec) with Tarvisio. During winter the road is closed only when snow can not be cleared.

Nevejski preval / Sella Nevea, 1195m. Connecting Jezerska dolina/Valle Rio da Lago and Trbiž/Tarvisio town with Reklanica/Raccolana valley.

Učja/Uccea, 700m. Connecting Soča/Isonzo valley and Po plane on the west, or towards NW Rezija/Resia valley.

Cable car Kanin: Summer 2004: Up - from 7:00 to 15:00 (each full hour). Down - from 8:00 to 16:00 (each full hour).
Cable car Vogel (Bohinj): Spring 2006: Up - from 8:00 to 18:00 (each half hour). Down - from 8:00 to 18:00 (each half hour).

Towns, Valleys, Maps

 
Soca river - Otona pool
Soča
 
Kozjak waterfall
Kozjak waterfall

The picture below shows main town and valleys of Julian Alps.

Valleys
Some valleys of Julian Alps are special pearls. As they don't belong to one particular group or mountain, I'll devote them a few words here.

Vrata valley is certainly among the most attractive ones. With a beautiful river Triglavska Bistrica, Peričnik waterfall, nice woods and meadows, and, of course, high walls all around with a monster - Triglav north wall.

Soča river is (not only by my opinion) one of the most beautiful river of Alps. It has a special turquois colour, from its souce down to Gorica city. The river itself, its gorges, ponds, meadows and views on high surrounding mountain can be admired by short hikes along it. Also some side gorges and waterfalls are very worth a visit. From Kal-Koritnica down to Kobarid and further on the river is a highly desired goal for rafting, cayaking and canoeing. But - this is a mountaineering site...

Nadiža river valley - see more on the Kanin Subgroup page!

Vintgar gorge is a finishing part of Radovna river. Being also beautiful in the upper part, the gorge has been for decades arranged for tourist visits.

Maps:
Kranjska Gora. Community of Kranjska Gora - Tourist map. 1:30000
Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.
Julijske Alpe - Zahodni del (Western part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.
Julijske Alpe - Triglav. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:20000.
Julijske Alpe - Bohinj. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:20000.
Krnsko pogorje in Kobarid (Krn group). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:25000.
Trenta. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:25000.

Red Tape

The majority of the eastern part of Julian Alps is within Triglav national park, established already in 1924. See more information on its formal web page: http://www.tnp.si/national_park/.

The second protected area is the Julian Prealps Nature Parc, established in 1996. Its headquarters are in Prati do Resia. For more details see the its official web page at: http://www.parcoprealpigiulie.org/.

When To Climb

In summer best months are from start of July till end of October.

For tour skiing the best months are from February till May. First snow usually falls in November, in certain areas skiing is possible till end of May.

Best areas for tour skiing:
Komna, The Valley of Triglav Lakes, Mountains north of Bohinj, Velo polje with Kanjavec, south and east slopes of Triglav massif, Stenar and Križ, almost whole Krn group, almost whole Kanin group, areas above Vršič pass.

Best high walls for climbing:
Triglav, Draški vrh above Krma, Vršac above Zadnjica valley, Martuljek (Široka peč, Špik), Prisojnik, Travnik and Šite (walls above Planica), Jalovec, Mangart (eastern part), Viš (eastern part), walls above Riofredo (south of Viš), Montaž, Monte Cimone, Loška stena, Jerebica etc.

Mountains above Trenta are a paradise for hard orientation adventures, routes without descriptions, hard ridges far away from civilization. Trenta style is a synonim in Slovenia for hard scramble and climbing in unknown terrain.

Camping

 
Spectacle in the Kingdom of Triglav
Velebit - Sunset on Kredarica below Triglav

Here are some links to web pages where information is also in English:

A kind of bi-lingual page with panoramic pictures of the area:

For waterfall enthusiasts:

Bled, Kranjska gora, Bohinj, Mojstrana, Bovec, Tolmin, Kobarid, Tarvisio.

Mountain Conditions

For weather see here.

Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit):


A More Remote History of This Page

 
Pericnik waterfall in winter.
Peričnik waterfall in winter

> June, 3rd, 2006 - Links to the new Julian Pre-Alps subgroup inserted.
> June, 3rd, 2006 - Links to the new page inserted: Crna Prst.
> March, 28th, 2006 - Links to two new pages inserted: Rombon, Svinjak.
> March, 25th, 2006 - Links to three new pages inserted: Kobariski Stol, Veliki Lemez, Veliko Spicje.
> November, 5th, 2005 - Links to the new page inserted: Krniska glavica / Iof di Sompdogna.
> September, 27th, 2005 - Links to the new page inserted: Monte Nabois Grande / Veliki Nabojs.
> September, 18th, 2005 - Links to the new page inserted: Monte Piper / Pipar.
> April, 19th, 2005 - The legend of Anton Tozbar - Spik added.
> April, 16th, 2005 - Links to the new page inserted: Velika and Mala Ticarica.
> March, 28th, 2005 - Links to the new pages inserted: Rz and Kopica.
> March, 26th, 2005 - Links to the new page inserted: Zelnarica.
> February 28th, 2005 - Links to new pages inserted: Dovski Gamsovec and Pelc nad Klonicami.
> February 13th, 2005 - Links to the new page inserted: Zadnjiski Ozebnik.
> February 12th, 2005 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Siroka pec.
> February 5th, 2005 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Monte Cimone / Strma pec.
> January 30th, 2005 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Vrbanove spice.
> January 24th, 2005 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Kanin Group.
> January 18th, 2005 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Krn Group.
> January 10th, 2005 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Strmi Strug.
> January 2nd, 2005 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Rodica.
> December 28th, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Kotova spica.
> December 13th, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Prsivec.
> December 5th, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Bohinj Subgroup.
> December 1st, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Pizzo di Mezzodi / Kopa.
> November 27th, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Mali Draski vrh.
> November 23rd, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Tosc.
> November 22nd, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP GROUP page: Razor and Prisojnik Group.
> November 17th, 2004 - Inserted links to three new SP pages: Vis and Montaz Group, Cmir and Miselj vrh.
> November 13th, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Cima del Cacciatore / Kamniti Lovec.
> November 9th, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Vrsac.
> November 7th, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Triglav Group.
> November 6th, 2004 - Inserted links to new SP pages: Site, Kriz and Martuljek Subgroup.
> November 1st, 2004 - Inserted links to new SP pages: Bovski Gamsovec and Travnik.
> October 30th, 2004 - Inserted links to the new SP page: Pihavec.
> October 27th, 2004 - Inserted links to two new SP pages: Planja and Golicica.
> October 26th, 2004 - Page redesign: Subgroups introduced. Link to the Mangart&Jalovec subgroup inserted.
> October 17th, 2004 - Inserted links to the new Vevnica page. A panorana picture of Mangart/Jalovec group added.
> October 13th, 2004 - Inserted links to new Lopa and Dolkova spica pages.
> October 5th, 2004 - Links to the new Velika Ponca page inserted.
> October 3rd, 2004 - Links to the new Frdamane police page inserted.
> September 28th, 2004 - Links to the new Vernar page inserted.
> September 22nd, 2004 - Links to the new Rusica page inserted.
> September 17th, 2004 - Links to the new Slemenova spica page inserted.
> September 14th, 2004 - Links to the new Visoka Rateska Ponca page inserted.
> September 5th, 2004 - Links to the new Debeli vrh page inserted. A panorama of Mangart group added.
> August 12th, 2004 - Links to new Skrnatarica and Veliki Oltar page inserted.
> August 7th, 2004 - Links to new Visevnik and Bavski Grintavec page inserted.
> July 25th, 2004 - Three panoramas inserted: Krn group, Bohinj group and South Bohinj range.
> July 19th, 2004 - Links to new SP pages inserted: Prestreljenik and Jerebica.
> July 13th, 2004 - Some valleys and rivers descriptions and pictures added.
> July 12th, 2004 - Picture of Martuljek Group from north inserted.
> June 13th, 2004 - Links to the new Kukova spica SP page inserted.
> May 26th, 2004 - Last update: Two more mountain passes mentioned. Links to the new Visoki Kanin / Monte Canin SP page inserted.
> May 22th, 2004 - Cable car Kanin schedule.

The view from Gorjane on Julian Alps. Only the main summits are labelled and with Slovenian names only.

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
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janezarkoUntitled Comment

Hasn't voted

Is the southeast ridge route onto Triglav in Slovenija still open? I believe it is called Bambergerjeva pot.
Posted Nov 30, 2004 10:56 pm
Vid PogachnikUntitled Comment

Vid Pogachnik

Hasn't voted

Hm? Bamberg route is not the southeast ridge. It is the NW ridge, the final section coming to the top from SW. From SE the route from Planika hut comes. And both of these routes are opened and well maintained. I mean - now, in winter - it's hard to say that they are opened. They are under snow and the ascent is a hard climb. But in summer they are normal ferratas.
Posted Dec 1, 2004 9:23 am

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