Viererspitze is a small peak above Mittenwald with steep slopes to all sides. It is located a bit off of the main ridge of the northern Karwendel chain
. This makes the summit a perfect viewpoint. Additionally to the steepness of the slopes and the slightly overhanding face towards Mittenwald make the view breath-taking. But despite of all the steepness the summit offers enough space for several people to enjoy the views.
The big four
If you have never seen the right photo of Viererspitze -or you never visited Mittenwald- you will wonder about the name. But once you' ve driven to Mittenwald along road B2 from the north the name is simply obvios. Viererspitze is named after a natural rock formation on its north-west face, which looks a bit like a huge four.
From Mittenwald, Viererspitze is present from nearly any spot and looks very hard to climb. But there are some relatively easy routes to the top. They involfe some easy climbing (not more than UIAA I+ close to the summit) with good holds. But be careful since you are in the Karwendel which is made of limestone which is not always as solid as it looks...
Although the top station of the Karwendelbahn
cablecar is quite close to the summit of Viererspitze, the summit is never crowded. This may be due to the fact that there are no securing cables like on the popular Mittenwalder Höhenweg
Despite of many climbing routes there are mainly three ascend routes:
- Via Dammkar
After ascending to Dammkarhut you have to follow a small trail into the Vorderes Dammkar cirque. The scree gets steeper and steeper to the end of the cirque and the trail leads upthe saddle close to Kreuzwand. From there you traverse the northern Karwendelkopf to Viererspitze. The sumit block is easy UIAA I+ climbing. Due to the big cirque, this is a good descent but not the best choice to ascent Viererspitze!
- Vordere Kreuzklamm
Starting at the Karwendelbahn you have to follow the trail up to Mittenwalderhut. At a wayside cross at about 1400m you have to leave the trail to Mittenwalder hut and follow a small trail passing under the cables of the Karwendelbahn. You cross the gully (easiest climbing and trust the big root you will pass which is a great hold!) towards the gully leading up to Viererspitze. The exit of the gully is right at the summit block of Viererspitze. Maybe a helmet isn' t a bad choice for this route...
- From top station of Karwendelbahn
Starting at the top station of Karwendelbahn (either use the cablecar or ascend Mittenwalderhut and Karwendelsteig) a trail traverses the steep slopes towards Viererspitze. I haven' t done this trail but I have to say that some sections look quite intense. This is definitely not the best place to stumble!
|All routes up to Viererspitze start at Mittenwald, which is easily reachable by car and has a train connection to Munich and Innsbruck.|
By carRoad 177 and B2 which connects Innsbruck (Austria) and Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Germany) passes Mittenwald. From Garmisch-Partenkirchen you have a highway connection to Munich and Innsbruck provides conenctions to Italy (Brenner) and Switzerland.
The best place to park your car is at the parking lot of the Karwendelbahn which is located directly at the trailhead. If you drive on road B2 signs to "Karwendelbahn" will lead you there.
By public transportationAbout every hour the train from Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Germany) to Innsburck (Austria) stops at Mittenwald. From Garmisch-Partenkirchen you have access to the trains to Munich, Ehrwald (Austria) and Rheutte (Austria). Innsbruck is the gateway to Italy (Bozen/Bolzano, Verona). For more information visit the homepage of Deutsche Bahn for german and ÖBB for austrian train connections.
Starting at the train station you have to walk a bit to get to the Karwendelbahn. I don' t remember if there are signs but if you have a hiking map of the area you should get there (or simply follow the masses...).
|Both Dammkar and Mittenwalderhut are close to Viererspitze and can be used for an overnight stay. Dammkarhut is very small so a reservation is neccessary (phone number of the homepage: http://www.dammkarhuette.de).|Dammkarhut
There are no permits, fees or seasonal closures. The mountain is part of a nature reservation area so don't pick up plants and leave only footprints.
I do not remember if parking at Karwendelbahn is free or not. I only remember I didn't pay anything... But check out for yourself.
Maps And Books
When To Climb
I have heard that Viererspitze is climbed the hole year. But if the gullies are filled with snow the ascend will be very dangerous since any avalanche will cross your path... Propably the best time to climb Viererspitze is summer and early autumn.