Dom – correct name Dom de Mischabel – is a massive and impressive mountain at the mid-length point of the Mischabel Chain, between its twin Taschhorn (mts. 4491) to South and the pyramid of the Lenzspitze (mts. 4294) to North.
It is the highest point of the Strahlhorn-Mischabel Group and the third peak of the Alps after Monte Bianco and Monte Rosa - even if Dom it is lower than Dufour, Nordend, Zumstein and Punta Gnifetti (Signalkuppe).The Dom is the highest mountain completely in Swiss territory (because Dufour is the highest summit completely in Switzerland.Dufourspitze is not located on the Monte Rosa ridge, which forms the frontier between Italy in Switzerland, but one hour away to the west but several Swiss summits of the frontier Monte Rosa exceed the Dom in height by as much as 260 feet).

SUMMITS and SUB-SUMMITS
The name “Mischabel” comes from a ancient German dialect term for “pitchfork for the manure” and it was the former name of the Dom, even if during years the name entitled all the Chain.
What makes folks call this summit the “pitchfork” is the presence of many peaks close to each-other, in fact Dom has one main peak and two secondary peaks:
the highest one (with a cross) lies in the middle, it is 4545.42 meters height with a trapezium shape (if viewed from North or South).
the Western one is so-called “Gabel” and it represents the Dom’s antisummit: it is 4480 mts. high.
the Eastern one is the summit of a Grand Gendarme with a 4468 mts. elevation.
RIDGES and SADDLES
The Dom’s shape is quite complex and it presents five ridges:
The least important and briefest one is the summit ridge between the Dom summit and the Gabel (Dom’s antisummit) and it is 230 m length.
The two main ridges are the NNE and the S, almost lined-up these ridges links Dom to the Lenzspitze – (toward N), and to the Taschhorn up to the Alphubel and the Allainhorn (toward S), creating a great wall in the E side of the Mischabel · Stahlhorn Group, covered by the large Feegletscher; on the NNE just under the Lenzspitze southern side there is the Lenzjoch, while on the S ridge there’s the Domjoch (the pass between Dom and Taschhorn): both of these passes are narrow and difficult to get over.
The other two, W and NW run almost parallel from the summit ridge, creating three areas on the W side of the Dom; on the NW ridge there is the Festijoch a large saddle opened on the Festigletscher (at S) and the Hohberggletscher (at N).
SIDES
The system of ridges all around the Dom’s summit creates four main sides for this mountain:
The most important one is the E wall, impressive, steep and icy (it is covered by the Feegletscher= Fee Glacier), continues from the Allalinhorn to the Lenzspitze, above the village of Saas Fee
the SW side is also icy, covered by the Kingletscher.
the N side is completely icy, covered by the Hohberggletscher, and here the Normal route runs.
the W side is icy, held between the W and NW ridges, and covered by the Festigletscher.
THE NAME
Its name could be come from a dialect term for “dome” or “cathedral” but someone says that the name Dom comes from the name Domherr (German term near “priest”) Berchtold, the first man to measure the heights of the Mischabel.

Note: desainme (Mark) having maintained this page and that of the Lenzspitze for five years, does not pretend to having been to these mounains but has attempted to maintain the page by incorporating the messages of those who have. If any Sper having "experienced" the Mischabel wishes to assume responsiblity for this plaease let me know.

Getting There

FROM MATTERTAL
The Mattertal Valley is easy to reach from any places of Switzerland and Italy too.
~ From Geneva drive along the A1 up to Losanne, then take the A9 up to Visp. Easy speedways. In Visp is suggested to leave the own car and take the cable-train up to Zermatt, or as arrived to Visp drive in the Valley up to Tasch (the last car allowed point) then take the train. 236 kms, 3 h.
~ From Bern take the A12 up to Montreaux, on the Geneva Lake, then the A9 up to Visp. Easy speedways. In Visp is suggested to leave the own car and take the cable-train up to Zermatt, or as arrived to Visp drive in the Valley up to Tasch (the last car allowed point) then take the train. 231 kms, 3 h.
~ However, if you’re moving from Italy, as arrived to Aosta (see Monte Rosa Group or Monte Bianco di Courmayeur pages) drive to north by the E27 – S27 road up to Martigny, where take the A9 up to Visp. In Visp is suggested to leave the own car and take the cable-train up to Zermatt, or as arrived to Visp drive in the Valley up to Tasch (the last car allowed point) then take the train. 180 kms, 2 h 50 m

Refuges of the Group could be reached with lift-ways from Randa (on the road to Zermatt) and Zermatt, like: Gasenried, Randa Alpin, Taschalp.

FROM SAASTAL
Also the Saas Valley is easy to reach, like Mattertal Valley you’ve to move up to Visp then Stalden where the Saas Valley divides itself Mattertal Valley.
~ From Geneva drive along the A1 up to Losanne, then take the A9 up to Visp. Easy speedways. In Visp move up to Stalden, then enter the Saastal and arrive to Saas Fee, where many lift-ways stations lie. 226 kms, 2 h 50 m.
~ From Bern take the A12 up to Montreaux, on the Geneva Lake, then the A9 up to Visp. Easy speedways. In Visp move up to Stalden, then enter the Saastal and arrive to Saas Fee, where many lift-ways stations lie. 222 kms, 2 h 50 m.
~ Again, if you’re moving from Italy, as arrived to Aosta (see Monte Rosa Group or Monte Bianco di Courmayeur pages) drive to north by the E27 – S27 road up to Martigny, where take the A9 up to Visp. In Visp move up to Stalden, then enter the Saastal and arrive to Saas Fee, where many lift-ways stations lie. 162 kms, 2 h 30 m.

Main refuges of the Mischabel Group could be reached with lift-ways from Saas Fee, like: Langflue, Felskinn, Metrò Alpin to the Mittelallalinstation for the approaches to the main summits of the Group.

~ For the snow / avalanches conditions go to the website:
SWISS SERVICE FOR AVALANCHE CONDITIONS

Routes

Dom is usually reached by the non-difficult N side, by steep icy slants, but very frequented is also the Taschhorn-Dom traverse (in this way), difficult but very gainful, with a descent along the normal.
Easy is also the Lenzspitze-Dom traverse (in both the ways), but it is less frequented than the other one because is not very gainful, but anyway interesting.
Both of these two traverses belonged to the famous Mischabel Chain Great Traverse, the remarkable route from Taschhorn (moving from the Mischabeljoch Biwak) to the Bordierhutte.
The glacial E face and the exposed NE ridge are nor very frequented because they present a series of important objective-hazards.
However the best period for the Dom’s ascensions is the Summer time, from June to September, but with settled conditions.
Important: all the approaches are however long and binding.
The first ascension of the Dom belongs to J. L. Davies, J. Zumtaugwald, J. Kronig and H. Brantschen – September 11, 1858 by the NW Ridge (Festigrat).

? N SIDE (Normal)
~ Start point
Domhutte, m. 2940
~ Type
steep completely icy routes, usually marked.
~ Difficult and inclination
PD, passages of II+ (preferable double for the descent)

? NW RIDGE (Festigrat) – Also linked to the Lenzspitze Traverse (Festigrat)
~ Start point
Domhutte, m. 2940 or Lenzspitze, m. 4249
~ End point
Dom, m. 4545
~ Type
mostly rocky ascension, on Gneiss often friable, exposed and windy, possible ice passages.
~ Difficult and inclination
- from Domhutte, mostly AD, with passages of III+
- from the Lenzspitze, mostly PD +, two particular passages of III up to the Lenzjoch then AD, with passages of III+
~ Mischabel Chain Great Traverse
Mischabeljoch Biwak – (AD+) – Taschhorn – (D / D+) – Dom – (AD / PD+) – Lenzspitze – (AD+ / D-) – Nadelhorn – (AD+) – Stecknadelhorn – (PD+) – Hohberghorn – (D / D+) – Durrenhorn – (AD+) – Bordierhutte,
or
Mischabeljoch Biwak – (AD+) – Taschhorn – (D / D+) – Dom – (AD / PD+) – Lenzspitze – (AD+ / D-) – Nadelhorn – (AD+) – Durrenhorn – (AD+) – Bordierhutte.

W face: Several routes across the ice west face: ice, 55 degrees inclination and some rock climbing III near the top of the west face, D/D+. Notation by [X] Bird

? S RIDGE (Taschhorn - Dom Traverse , Domgrat)
~ Start point
Taschhorn, m. 4491
~ Type
very exposed, windy, friable Gneiss rocks, snowy-frames
~ Difficult and inclination
D (but also D+) with passages of III, III+ up to IV+ (due to rocks conditions)
~ Mischabel Chain Great Traverse
Mischabeljoch Biwak – (AD+) – Taschhorn – (D / D+) – Dom – (AD / PD+) – Lenzspitze – (AD+ / D-) – Nadelhorn – (AD+) – Stecknadelhorn – (PD+) – Hohberghorn – (D / D+) – Durrenhorn – (AD+) – Bordierhutte,
or
Mischabeljoch Biwak – (AD+) – Taschhorn – (D / D+) – Dom – (AD / PD+) – Lenzspitze – (AD+ / D-) – Nadelhorn – (AD+) – Durrenhorn – (AD+) – Bordierhutte.

? NE RIDGE (Gran Gendarme de Dom)
~ Start point
Domhutte, m. 2940
~ Type
very exposed, windy, friable rocks, cracks, mobile-blocks
~ Difficult and inclination
D+, with passages of IV and IV+

? E FACE
~ Start point
Domhutte, m. 2940
~ Type
difficult ice (also rocky) route, ribs, spurs, stone falls, icy falls, couloir, very crevassed slants.
~ Difficult and inclination
D+
E face: routes on the east face usually do not start from the domhutte but from the cablecar station at Langflue Notation by [X] Bird

Dom map route from Domhutte via Festijoch

http://www.bielefeldt.de/mischabele.htm
Mischabel by Hartmut Bielefeldt

Huts

BIVOUACS
in order: name, height, location, municipal district, owner. Open all year long.
1. MISCHABELJOCH BIWAK, m. 3860, Mischabeljoch, CAS Geneva, 30 beds – reach it by the W face of the Mischabel Chain, just South of the Taschhorn, mix and ice with PD+ difficult (use trad. equipment)

REFUGES
in order: name, height, location, municipal district, owner, refuge phone, beds (winter room those signalled with a +). Open in summer.
1. MISCHABELHUTTE, m. 3329, NE spur of the Lenzspitze, AAC Zurich, Tel.: (+41) 028.571317, 60 beds – reach it from Saas Fee (Saastal) with an easy path in 3.30 / 4 hours, well signalled, difficult: T / E
2. DOMHUTTE, m. 2940, Festigletscher, Sec. UTO of CAS, Tel.: (+41) 028.672634, 52+5 beds – reach it from Randa (Mattertal) with a steep path in 4 / 4.30 hours, difficult: E
3. LANGFLUE, m. 2870, Langflue, CAS Saas, Tel. : 028.48132, 80 beds. – reach it easily from Saas Fee with comfortable cable-cars
4. HOTEL FLUH, m. 2618, Findelgletscher, private, Tel.: 028.77551, 60 beds - reach it easily from Saas Fee with comfortable cable-cars
5. TASCHHUTTE, m. 2701, Rotgrat, UTO of CAS, Tel.: 028.673913, 60 beds

This page is been developed following the:
CONTRIBUTORS
Zermatt city-hall
Saas Grund city-hall
TCI Touring Club Italiano – Italian Alps Costumers Service
BOOKS AND MAPS
CAR MAPS
Atlante automobilistico Italia settentrionale, 1:200000 – Touring Club Italiano, 1979
Route Planner Europe software, 1:96 – Sony Italia and TCI, 2000
TERRITORY MAPS – ROUTE MAPS
Matterhorn – Monte Rosa – Mischabel, C. 3 No. 5006, 1:50.000
CNS Zermatt and Mattertal, No. 1348, 1:25.000
CNS Saastal and Mischabel, No. 284 S, 1:50.000
BOOKS
Alpes Valaisannes. Du Strahlhorn au Simplon, vol. 4
Guida al Monte Rosa: Club Alpino Italiano, vol.1-2
Guida al Gruppo dei Mischabel: Club Alpino Italiano, vol.U
Manuale di alpinismo CAAI – Le Alpi Pennine, il Gruppo del Monte Rosa, i Mischabel

Mischabel Cam

Dom Hut

Mischabel Hut

Tasch Hut

Hotel Langflue

Berghaus Flue

Dom et al. from Britannia Hut

Villages and where to stay

SAAS FEE
Village in the Canton of Valais (Wallis), Switzerland. 1809 inhabitants, 1803 meters height, in the Saas Valley
- Car traffic close
- Postale Code: 3920
- Dialling Code: (+41) 028-
- Tourist office, Tel.: (+41) 028.571457
- Informations:
saastal.ch
weissmies.ch
swiss railways
cable-cars, Tel.: 028.571414
lift-ways “Metrò Alpin”, Tel.: 028.572717
to sleep, Tel.: 289571440

ZERMATT
Village in the Canton of Valais (Wallis), Switzerland. 3548 inhabitants, 1616 meters height, in the Mattertal Valley
- Car traffic close
- Postale Code: 3920
- Dialling Code: (+41) 27-
- Tourist office, Tel.: (+41) 027.672828
- Informations: to the Tourist Office, tel.: 27.9668100,
e-mail
zermatt.ch
swiss railways
train Brig-Visp-Zermatt, Tel.: 027.672828

When to climb

Ascensions possible all the year long, especially along the Normal (N side) or the more binding Festigrat (NW ridge) also linked to a beautiful Lenzspitze-Dom traverse, paying attention, an amazing experience especially in autumn and winter times.
Other routes to Dom are difficult and each one requires good preparation, settled weather conditions for the presence of many objective-hazards such as rock fall or recent snowy layer.
It’s an important suggestion to say that Dom routes shall be started by the very early morning.

Mountain Conditions

~ For the weather conditions go to the website:
GERMAN SERVICE FOR ALPS WEATHER CONDITIONS

Swiss weather meteo
~ For the snow / avalanches conditions go to the website:
SWISS SERVICE FOR AVALANCHE CONDITIONS
http://www.slf.ch/avalanche/avalanche-en.html
Swiss snow conditions

Red Tape

There are no seasonal closures or necessary permits.
Is quite important say that Zermatt is unreachable by cars. Who want to move in the Mattertal up to Zermatt must to leave his or her own car in Visp, or in the Stalden village and continue with train, the best way could be parking in Visp.
The same for Saas Fee, but it is easier than Zermatt to be reached, cars can reach the village but they can’t move in it.

Bibliogaphy, links, photos and maps

This page is been developed following the:
CONTRIBUTORS
Zermatt city-hall
Saas Grund city-hall
TCI Touring Club Italiano – Italian Alps Costumers Service
BOOKS AND MAPS
CAR MAPS
Atlante automobilistico Italia settentrionale, 1:200000 – Touring Club Italiano, 1979
Route Planner Europe software, 1:96 – Sony Italia and TCI, 2000
TERRITORY MAPS – ROUTE MAPS
Matterhorn – Monte Rosa – Mischabel, C. 3 No. 5006, 1:50.000
CNS Zermatt and Mattertal, No. 1348, 1:25.000
CNS Saastal and Mischabel, No. 284 S, 1:50.000
BOOKS
Alpes Valaisannes. Du Strahlhorn au Simplon, vol. 4
Guida al Monte Rosa: Club Alpino Italiano, vol.1-2
Guida al Gruppo dei Mischabel: Club Alpino Italiano, vol.U
Manuale di alpinismo CAAI – Le Alpi Pennine, il Gruppo del Monte Rosa, i Mischabel

Quick glance

Mischabel Elevation Val de Saas huts Val de Matt huts
Nadelhorn 14,196 yes Bordierhutte
Lenzspitze 14,088 Mischabelhutte Saas
Dom 14,911 yes Domhutte
Taschorn 14,733 Taschalp

External Links

Site of Randa
Misc. information.
Dom at www.4000er.de
Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps

Ski Rando ( Ski Mountaineering)

Gabrielle has suggested that there is much opportunity for this starting from the month of May into summer. Much of it appears to be from the Sass Fee side. Note that there are cable cars into the mountains from this side.

Images



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