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Mountains & Rocks



Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Htes Pyrenees/Huesca, France/Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 42.70310°N / 0.0605°W

Object Title: Taillon

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 10314 ft / 3144 m


Page By: Rafa Bartolome

Created/Edited: Jun 7, 2004 / Aug 5, 2008

Object ID: 152694

Hits: 14345 

Page Score: 87.85%  - 26 Votes 

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Taillon and Marboré

The Taillón is one of the most popular mountains of Ordesa's valley for its easy climb from Sarradets's refuge and for its wonderful view of the Cirque de Gavarnie and the Three Sorores (Soum de Ramond, Cilindro and Monte Perdido). Nevertheless from the spanish side it is a long ascension, if it does not sleep in the refuge, with rewards of high mountain. It does not suit to forget that though it does not offer technical difficulties, there not are three thousand "easy" and a good preparation is needed for 6 hours that it needs of ascension from San Nicolás de Bujaruelo. The Taillón constitutes the most western spur of the range Gavarnie/Ordesa together with the Picos de los Gabietos (3031m and 3034m) and is for its situation separated from the rest of mountains of the Cirque de Gavarnie that it offers spectacular landscapes to enjoy.
Neither it is necessary to forget that the impressive and steep north face, which is the one that is observed from Gavarnie, it offers very interesting routes for the mountaineers in winter, the ridges that it join the Gabietos (P.D.inf., degree II) and also the climb across the glaciers of Taillón or Gabietos with step-crossing of degree II-III.
The normal route, generally from col de Tentes (2208m), in spite of the fact that it is very frequented, it offers the access to the always spectacular Brecha de Rolando (Rolando's Gap) that deserves to be contemplated in every visit to the area.

First climb: Captain Vicente de Heredia (1792). First climb of north face: H.Brulle and C.Passet (1895).

Getting There

Approach to spanish side to Torla: see the page of Monte Perdido. From Torla to San Nicolas de Bujaruelo take a bad road (forest track) in the exit of village to the north. After 8 km we arrive to the end of track.

Approach to french side (Col de Tentes or Port de Bujaruelo): see the page of Cirque de Gavarnie

Red Tape

No permits required. In the months from july to september the road of Pradera de Ordesa from Torla it's closed and the service of bus is each 15 minutes (tel.info: 974-486466). For approach to Bujaruelo it's no problem, the desviation is just before the barrier of entry of Natural Park.


Normal Routes-Start Point Route Slope (m) Difficulty Time to summit
San Nicolás de Bujaruelo (1338m) Brecha de Rolando 1806 SD/F 5h 30 min
Puerto de Bujaruelo (2270m) Brecha de Rolando 874 SD/F 3h 15 min
Refugio de Sarradets (2587m) Brecha de Rolando 557 SD/F 1h 40 min
Refugio de Góriz (2195m) East-SE 949 SD/F 6h
Other Routes-Start Point Route Slope (m) Difficulty Time to summit
Pradera de Ordesa (1350m) Cotatuero 1794 PD- 7h
Puerto de Bujaruelo (2270m) Col de Gabietos-West Ridge 874 F+ 4h
Refugio de Sarradets (2587m) Glacier of Taillon-Ridge NE 557 PD 2h 30 min
Puerto de Bujaruelo (2270m) North Face 874 AD 4h 30 min

You can see the map of the zone of Gavarnie.

When To Climb

Normal route june to september for all the people. Out of the season the winter material is necessary (crampons, ice-axe).


Rules of Ordesa's valley: see main page of Monte Perdido.

-Ref.de Sarradets (2587m, 85 places). Tel:62924063.
-Ref.de Goriz (2190m, 100 places) Tel:974-341201.

-Camping de Fenes (Bujaruelo)

Mountain Conditions

No web-cams.
Meteo France
Journal ABC-El tiempo

External Links

Additions and Corrections

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ezaUntitled Comment


Voted 10/10

captain Heredia climbed Taillon (and a number of other peaks in the Pyrenees) during the so-called Great Geodesical Survey of the Pyrenees, undertaken by french and spanish teams in the late 18th century. Its target was to obtain a final design of the common border.
Posted Aug 31, 2004 10:12 am

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La Brecha de RolandoCrevasseLe Doigt de la Fausse Brèche / Dedo de la Falsa Brecha (or Maillet) and Le TaillonPanorama to the Taillon and GavarnieBrèche de RolandTaillonTaillon
CrevasseClimbing from the Sarradets hut to the Roland BreachTaillon and MarboréSunset at the Refuge des Sarradets, looking to the Pic du MarboréClimb the north face route of...Sunset at the Refuge des Sarradets, looking to the Casque du MarboréSummit edge of Taillon 3144 m
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