The Taillón is one of the most popular mountains of Ordesa's valley for its easy climb from Sarradets's refuge and for its wonderful view of the Cirque de Gavarnie and the Three Sorores (Soum de Ramond, Cilindro and Monte Perdido). Nevertheless from the spanish side it is a long ascension, if it does not sleep in the refuge, with rewards of high mountain. It does not suit to forget that though it does not offer technical difficulties, there not are three thousand "easy" and a good preparation is needed for 6 hours that it needs of ascension from San Nicolás de Bujaruelo. The Taillón constitutes the most western spur of the range Gavarnie/Ordesa together with the Picos de los Gabietos (3031m and 3034m) and is for its situation separated from the rest of mountains of the Cirque de Gavarnie that it offers spectacular landscapes to enjoy.
Neither it is necessary to forget that the impressive and steep north face, which is the one that is observed from Gavarnie, it offers very interesting routes for the mountaineers in winter, the ridges that it join the Gabietos (P.D.inf., degree II) and also the climb across the glaciers of Taillón or Gabietos with step-crossing of degree II-III.
The normal route, generally from col de Tentes (2208m), in spite of the fact that it is very frequented, it offers the access to the always spectacular Brecha de Rolando (Rolando's Gap) that deserves to be contemplated in every visit to the area.
First climb: Captain Vicente de Heredia (1792). First climb of north face: H.Brulle and C.Passet (1895).
Getting ThereApproach to spanish side to Torla: see the page of Monte Perdido. From Torla to San Nicolas de Bujaruelo take a bad road (forest track) in the exit of village to the north. After 8 km we arrive to the end of track.
Approach to french side (Col de Tentes or Port de Bujaruelo): see the page of Cirque de Gavarnie
Red TapeNo permits required. In the months from july to september the road of Pradera de Ordesa from Torla it's closed and the service of bus is each 15 minutes (tel.info: 974-486466). For approach to Bujaruelo it's no problem, the desviation is just before the barrier of entry of Natural Park.
|Normal Routes-Start Point||Route||Slope (m)||Difficulty||Time to summit|
|San Nicolás de Bujaruelo (1338m)||Brecha de Rolando||1806||SD/F||5h 30 min|
|Puerto de Bujaruelo (2270m)||Brecha de Rolando||874||SD/F||3h 15 min|
|Refugio de Sarradets (2587m)||Brecha de Rolando||557||SD/F||1h 40 min|
|Refugio de Góriz (2195m)||East-SE||949||SD/F||6h|
|Other Routes-Start Point||Route||Slope (m)||Difficulty||Time to summit|
|Pradera de Ordesa (1350m)||Cotatuero||1794||PD-||7h|
|Puerto de Bujaruelo (2270m)||Col de Gabietos-West Ridge||874||F+||4h|
|Refugio de Sarradets (2587m)||Glacier of Taillon-Ridge NE||557||PD||2h 30 min|
|Puerto de Bujaruelo (2270m)||North Face||874||AD||4h 30 min|
You can see the map of the zone of Gavarnie.
When To ClimbNormal route june to september for all the people. Out of the season the winter material is necessary (crampons, ice-axe).
CampingRules of Ordesa's valley: see main page of Monte Perdido.
-Ref.de Sarradets (2587m, 85 places). Tel:62924063.
-Ref.de Goriz (2190m, 100 places) Tel:974-341201.
-Camping de Fenes (Bujaruelo)
Mountain ConditionsNo web-cams.
Journal ABC-El tiempo
- Park National of Ordesa
Official web of the Park of Ordesa (spanish)
- Taillon-google-video video of pictures of the climb of Taillon including some of the north face.
- Yannick Michelat images of Taillon in winter in the page of Yannick.
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