Peaks of Crabioules:
-Crabioules Occidental (Western, 3106m).
-Crabioules Oriental (Eastern, 3116m).
The two Crabioules's peaks are very little known among the mountaineers who visit this zone of the Pyrenees of Benasque's valley. The problem is the nearness of the Perdiguero (3222m), the highest and principal peak of the range in the one that is. Neither helps the nearness of the Aneto (3404m), the most popular peak of the Pyrenees for being the highest point of the mountain chain. Nevertheless the ridge that joins both Crabioules's peaks is one of the most spectacular of the whole Pyrenees. Normally a few persons will be promoting this mount and some of them even will take material of climbing (rope) because the route can be very difficult to find and it's possible waht we can to climb across complicated chimneys of rock.
The nearness of the lake of the Portillon and the refuge of the same name do that these mountains are more popular in France than in Spain. It is in addition the french face the one that turns out to be more impressive and inaccessible for the great fall that it presents over the valley of Lys (800 meters).
The first climb known of this mountain was realized in 1879 by Henry Russell and Celestine Passet who climb the Crabioules Occidental (western, 3106m). In 1880 Rogers de Monts and Fermin Barrau climb the Crabioules Oriental (eastern, 3116m). We read the description of Russell about this: “It was necessary to think, so, to hundred steps, it seemed to be absolutely inaccessible. After having studied it for a long time, we perceive then two chimneys looked like to those of the glacier of the Neous that go to the Balaitous. They were bad, almost vertical. But they were rugose, a bit tortuous, and full of roughnesses that were forming small steps. Finally, the rock was solid: it was an excellent granite difficult to harm and hard as the metal ... the only fearsome thing was the inclination…The long summit resembles that of the Picos del Infierno, since it is not a top; it is a constant ridge, excessively narrow and orientated from west to east with a length of 400 or 500 meters. It is inconvenient, even dangerous.”
Yes, really it's a mountain for experimented mountaineers but the landscape in the final ridge is wonderfull. The normal access is for the col of Literola, common point of the french route to climb the more popular Perdiguero. The col of Literola join the ridge of Literola that descent from the principal summit of Perdiguero and the Crabioules. Some of the words writing in this summit by H.Russell: “The top is so sharp that it is necessary to be very attentive. And nevertheless, how not to be walked by the view on the thousands of multicolored or white peaks, on the ice sellers without end crushed by dark cracks, on all these frozen lakes that, seen from similar height and from such a central point, give to this noble region of the Pyrenees the aspect and the brilliance of the Alps?. On the other hand, one is so happily in these observatories when it does good weather. It would like to pass there one week. It gets excited and purifies one like in the heaven. The soul becomes so clean as a river you upset gone out of his bed, and that reflects still the sun and the flowers, before getting dirty crushing his shores...”
Origin of the name: probably from the french word "chevre" (goat).
Getting ThereThe same for the other peaks of valley of Benasque like Posets, Aneto or Perdiguero.
Red TapeNo permits required.
The Crabioules is a mountain little visited and is not advisable to go in solitary since it has certain danger and for the rescue it's possible to be late very much in being found by someone.
When To ClimbSummer time: june to september.
Not advisable in winter: the final air ridge with snow is very very dangerous (only for crazy people).
CampingA lot of hotels in the village of Benasque.
-Camping Aneto (2ªcat).
-Camping Ixeia (2ªcat).
-Camping municipal of Senarta (free, a small rate of less than 2$ for person and day).
In the french side:
-Refuge of Portillon
You can consult as well for more Posets and Aneto.
Mountain Conditions-Web page of Barrabés's shop
-I.N.Metereology of Spain
nice image of north face of Crabioules.
- Picture of Col of Literola
great image of col and the wall of Crabioules.
- Survey picture
the magnific view of landscape from the summit.
- Sketch and pictures
and route (in spanish). Sketch with the lines of the routes.
List of the 212 peaks of more than 3000 meters of the Pyrenees.
- Henry Russell
more information about one of the "fathers" of Pyreneism (in french).