Overview
Mount Baker is a spectacular volcano in the North Cascades that offers excellent mountaineering to beginners and experts, alike. Baker tantalizes the residents of Seattle on clear days and stuns ferry passengers in the San Juan Islands. Located only 35 miles inland from sea level at Bellingham the volcano has dramatic relief.
Mount Baker also achieves prominence as the 3rd highest summit in the state of Washington and as the iciest mountain in the Cascade Range. An unbelievable annual snowfall (world record of ~30 meters in 1998) sustains more than 100 square kilometers of glaciers and permanent snow fields. Consequently, crevasses are a major danger, dictating that all parties be proficient at glacier travel and rescue. Avalanche danger is commonly high because the notoriously variable weather can create unstable snow, even on moderate slopes.
Despite these risks, Mount Baker is an excellent first volcano for those learning to climb on snow and ice. When weather and glacial conditions are right, the ascents can be straightforward and relatively non-technical. Ice fills the summit crater, creating a broad, rounded summit that allows beginners to relax and enjoy the views.
The Coleman/Deming route is the most popular. The North Ridge is more difficult. The Easton route is the easiest, but can be unpleasant because it lies in the Mount Baker Recreational Area (where snow-mobile access is legal). The other routes fall within the (motorless) Mount Baker Wilderness.
Getting There
North Side Routes:
This is the most common approach. Get on State Highway 542 heading east from Interstate 5 (I-5). A mile past the Glacier Public Service center turn right onto (poorly marked) Road 39. Note that this turn is easy to miss! After 8 miles the road will turn to gravel and soon after you will be at the trailhead. Until the snow melts in mid-June or so, drive in as far you can and then hike, snowshoe, or ski to the trailhead.
Easton Glacier Routes: (via the Baker Pass Trail)
Get on State Highway 20 heading east from I-5 or west from State Highway 530. Go north on Baker Lake-Grandy Lake Road for 12 miles until the road splits. Here take Service Road 12 for three miles, and turn right onto Forest Service Road 13. Take this road for four miles until its end at Schreibers Meadow trailhead.
Ptarmigan Ridge Approach:
From Bellingham, take State Highway 542 east from I-5 to its end at the trailhead. Take the trail 5 miles to Camp Kiser. This approach is for the Park Glacier route, the Cockscomb, and the Roosevelt Headwall.
Red Tape
Vehicles parked at all trail heads as well as some picnic areas and dispersed campsites within the Mount Baker- Snoqualmie National Forest require a regional pass costing $5/day or $30/year. (Note that although Golden Age and Golden Access Passport holders may purchase the a forest pass at a 50% discount, the Golden Eagle Passport cannot be substituted for the Regional Northwest Forest Pass.)
A forest pass can be obtained from these stores or these ranger stations
When To Climb
Summit attempts are made year round but the summer months (May-August) are much more popular and have better weather.
Camping
NOTE: Party size limited to 12 members when entering the Mt. Baker Wilderness. Backcountry permits are not required for climbs of Mount Baker.
Camping on the mountain is free (once you have the regional pass), but to learn about pay campsites in the park check out
The Mount Baker Ranger District Campsites.
Mountain Conditions
Baker gets loads of snow (average of ~50ft/year) and is white year-round due to its high elevation and geographic location (significantly west of the Cascades, breaking trail for the North Cascades through thick Pacific moisture). Be aware that the weather is often bad. Exposure and low visibility can be the greatest challenges on the mountain.
In planning and timing your trip winter road conditions (active only between October 15 and April 15; click on Mount Baker when you visit this site) or weather and snow conditions. It may also be prudent to assess avalanche conditions.
For a smooth approach check the Trail Reports for Mount Baker Climbing District (scroll down to Railroad Grade, Ptarmigan Ridge, etc.). Additional trail information, as well as helpful guidance regarding crevassed glaciers can often be found in the MT. BAKER CLIMBING NOTES.
Helpful External Links:
Trip report: Summit Ski via Easton Glacier (Aug 1997)
Geological and Historical Notes
Mount Baker exhibited a small amount of volcanic activity in 1975-76, (steam release), and it is expected to erupt again. The three most prominent sub-summits are Sherman Peak and the Black Buttes (Colfax Peak and Lincoln Peak).
The main peak of Mount Baker is called Grant Peak. Colfax (one of the Black Buttes) was Grant's Vice President.
Baker's proximity to the ocean has motivated a long history of races between the mountain and sea level. The contemporary version of this competition, the Ski to Sea, takes place over Memorial Day weekend (last Monday in May).
Summer avalanche avoidance
Some notes to keep in mind during summer ascents when crevasses dominate the climber's mind (from the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center):
"Because avalanches continue to occur at higher elevations during the summer months in areas having either residual snow cover or permanent snow and ice cover, and several people within the Northwest have been killed by these events, here are a few notes about summer avalanches.
Avalanches occurring during the summertime can be generally grouped into three types:- First, wet slides within the existing snowpack are similar to wet spring slides, as progressive weakening occurs within the snowpack through melting and water percolation. Although these slides are most likely to occur during the warmest part of the day, they may occur at anytime of the day during periods when the snowpack does not refreeze substantially at night.
- The second type of summer avalanche occurrence is associated with new snowfall at high elevations. Summer snowfalls are usually followed by substantial warming of the newly fallen snow as air temperatures rise rapidly with intense summer sunshine. When the new snow overlies an old snow, ice or smooth rock surface this may lead to possible wet loose or wet slab avalanches.
- The third type of summer avalanche is an ice or snow and ice avalanche. These are usually triggered by the failure of large ice blocks such as seracs within glacier icefalls. This in turn may involve additional ice and/or snow. Timing of these events are mostly random, usually being associated with both meteorological conditions and glacier motion. However, they are most likely to occur during extended periods of warm weather.
Climbers, hikers and other back-country travelers during the summer are advised to evaluate snow stability and use normal
safety practices for travel in avalanche terrain with snow cover."
External LinksImages
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Cascade Volcanoes
