This beautiful and imposing pyramid belongs to the Gran Paradiso Group, forming a triptych with Tresenta (3609m) and Ciarforon (3642m). Here we describe a route on the north face.

First Ascents

N-E Ridge: G. Frasca and G. Blanchetti, (Jul 14th, 1881) - (first known ascent).
N-W Arête: G. Yeld with F. and S. Pession, (Aug 10th, 1897).
S-S-W Ridge: Maria Sbrojavacca and A. Bonacossa, (Jul 11th, 1921).
W wall: E. Martino with Remo Chabod, (Aug 31th, 1936).
N wall: E. Barisone, S. Gallo and M. Strumia, (May 02th, 1920).
E Wide Ridge: Ester della Valle di Casanova, Gigetta Matricardi and A. Bonacossa, (Jul 12th, 1923).
S-E Wall: A. Bonacossa and A. Sarfatti, (Jul 19th, 1923).

Getting There

BY CAR:

From France, through the Mont Blanc Tunnel or the Col du Petit Saint Bernard: you can drive on SS.26, following directions for Aosta and, before arriving in Villeneuve, turn right towards Introd. Alternatively, you can take motorway A5 (at Courmayeur or Morgex) and exit at Aosta Ovest.
From all the other directions: get to the Aosta Ovest exit of motorway A5. Then drive on SS.26 Aosta, in the direction of Courmayeur; just after Villeneuve turn left towards Introd.

BY PLANE:

Aeroporto Internazionale "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe: www.airvallee.com

Shortly after Introd, you arrive at a junction: turn left, entering Valsavarenche, and passing through many villages (Degioz, Eaux Rousses, etc.) you can arrive at Pont (1978m) where the road ends.
The ascent to becca di Monciair is usually done in two stages: on the first day you follow the normal route to Gran Paradiso and gain 770m of elevation from Pont (1980m) to Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele (2750m). The second day is spent on the climb to the summit.

Route

From Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II (2730m) traverse the Moncorvé glacier, losing at first some elevation. Skirting Ciarforon, reach the northern Monciair glacier; cross the glacer and aim for the slender triangular north face (2 h).
Climb the moderate lower slopes until the bergschrund, which usually poses no difficulties. Proceed to the upper slopes at about 3200m. The angle varies between 45 and 50 degrees. Keep initially at some distance from the rocky rib on the left, which forms a giant S on the face. Gradually approach the rib so as to attain it when you reach the upper part of the face. From there there are two options. You can continue along the rib (direct route). Alternatively, you can angle right toward the northwest ridge. This second option is faster and easier, but you should pay attention to the final brocken rocks if they are covered by snow. In both cases, you reach the summit of the pyramid at (3544m). (About 3 hours, difficulty from PD to AD, depending on the conditions.)
DESCENT:

Descend to Colle del Ciarforon (3317m) along the northeast face (normal route) along easy rocks and snowfields. Skirt on the west side the thirty meter gendarme. From there descend a rather steep slope that takes you back to the northern Monciair glacier. This slope has some crevasses. Once on the glacier, retrace your steps towards Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II.

Red Tape

There are no fees or permits. Parking in Pont, at the start of the route to Vittorio Emanuele II refuge, is free and there are no limitations for climbing and hiking.
Remember that free camping is forbidden (except for emergency reasons, over 2.500 mt., from darkness until dawn).
The whole region is part of the Parco Naturale del Gran Paradiso and thus you should take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of natural parks.

When To Climb

The best time is obviously July through September . Most ascent routes to the summit include glaciers so you need crampons anyway.

Accomodations

Accomodations can be found in all villages of Valsavarenche. You can use Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele as base for the ascents to both Gran Paradiso, Ciarforon and becca di Monciair. In addition there are several campgrounds in Valsavarenche, one of which just near the trailhead.
Telephone Numbers:
Tourist information "Comunità Montana Gran Paradiso" 0165/95055.
Union of Mountain Guides (Valle d'Aosta)0165/44448.
Rif. Vittorio Emanuele
0165/95920

Camping

Wild camping in the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso is strictly forbidden!

Webcam

WEBCAM on Aosta Valley:
Webcam

Mountain Conditions

You can get meteo information at the official site of the Regione Valle d'Aosta:
Valle d'Aosta Meteo

Books and Maps

BOOKS:

"Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Gran Paradiso Parco Nazionale" E. Andreis, R. Chabod, M. C. Santis, Club Alpino Italiano/Touring Club Italiano, prima Ed. 1939; seconda Ed. 1963; terza Ed.
"80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d’Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.

MAPS:

Kompass "Gran Paradiso Valle d'Aosta Sentieri e Rifugi" Carta Turistica 1:50.000.
Enrico Editore Ivrea-Aosta "Gruppo del Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.
I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Carta dei sentieri e dei rifugi "Valsavarenche-Val di Rhêmes-Valgrisenche" 1:25.000.
I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale-Carta dei sentieri e dei rifugi "Grivola-Gran Paradiso" 1:25.000.

Useful numbers

Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
A.I.NE.VA. (Associazione Interregionale Neve e Valanghe).
Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

Acknowledgements

I want to thank my three SP friends who respectively helped me to prepare the text (Livioz and Gangolf) and mainly to translate it (Brenta).

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