Punta Garin (also Picco Garin,
3451m) is a beautiful pyramidal summit which ranks third in both height and importance in the small Emilius Group, after Monte Emilius
(3559m) and Punta Tersiva
(3513m). It is without doubt the boldest peak of the whole massif. Its ascent is easier than appearances would suggest, but none of its sides allows a simple walk-up. From its summit one can enjoy wonderful views of the Gran Paradiso Massif and many other mountains of Valle d'Aosta.
First Ascents
- W-S-W? Arête: First ascent, Abati B. Chamonin and P. Chanoux, (1856).
- W-S-W Arête: C. Baker, C.Hiatt, F. W. Oliver and Alexander Burgener, (Sep 01th, 1894).
- W-S-W Arête: First ascent winter, Ansel and Pierluigi Falcoz, (Dec 26th, 1936).
- W Wall route of right: Ansel Falcoz, (Aug 1936).
- W Wall route of left: Osvaldo and Dario Sergio Cardellina, (Sep 22th, 1966) in descent.
- W Wall route of left: Osvaldo Cardellina and Giuseppe Lamazzi, (Sep 02th, 1984) in ascent.
- N Arête: Cesare Pavese with two soldiers, (Aug 09th, 1875).
- N-N-E Edge: Osvaldo Cardellina, Gianni Junod, Giorgio Boglione and Giovanni De Paoli, (Jul 18th, 1968) in descent.
- S-E Wall route of right Aimè Gorret G. P. Carrel with for boys, (Aug 23th, 1866).
- S-E Wall route of left: Osvaldo Cardellina, (Aug 24th, 1988).
- S Wall: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato, (Aug 27th, 1978).
- S-S-W Buttress Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato, (Sep 17th, 1978).
- S Arête: W. C. Compton, A. V. Valentine Richard and Alexander, Siegfried Burgener, (Aug 08th, 1897) in descent.
Getting There
BY CAR:
A) Pila
- From the Aosta Est exit of the motorway take SS 26 toward the city. Carefully follow the signs that point to the popular ski resort of Pila. Past the town of Pont Suaz, Strada Regionale n° 18 starts to climb; after a few hairpins it reaches the city of Charvensod (746m), 3 km from Aosta. Another 10 km will take you to the village of Peroulaz (1382m); a final 5 or 6 km and a few more hairpins will eventually bring you to Pila (1807).
B) Gimillan, Valle di Cogne- From Torino, Milano, etc: motorway A5. Exit at Aosta Ovest. Drive to the nearby Aymavilles. Follow in the directions for Valle di Cogne.
- From Switzerland: through the Grand St. Bernard Tunnel or the namesake pass). Drive to Aosta, then follow signs for Courmayeur along SS.26. Just past Sarre, turn left, in the direction of Valle di Cogne.
- From France: through Mont Blanc Tunnel or Petit St. Bernard Pass). It isn't necessary to take motorway A5, you can drive along SS.26 in the direction of Aosta. Before reaching the village of Sarre, follow the sign and turn right towards Valle di Cogne. After Aymavilles, Regional Road n° 47 crosses the villages of Vieyes (1142m), Epinel (1452m) and Cretaz (1499m) and then arrives at Cogne (1534m) after a total of about 25 Km.
Follow the road signs for Gimillan and Lillaz to a round-about, recently built in proximity of the St. Anthony chapel, then go left along the scenic route leading to the village of Gimillan (1787m), 3 km from Cogne. Usually no parking problems.
BY PLANE:
Route
Park in the large square of Pila and reach the chairlift station. Trail n° 19 starts from here and reaches lago di Chamolé
(2311m) in about 1 h and 20 min.
Continue along the north shore of the lake and climb the steep trail leading to Colle di Chamolé
(2621m), which impends over the Arbole hanging valley. From the col descend to the namesake hut rising in the proximity of a beautiful lake at
(2496m). Climb the hanging valley eastward following a stream until distinctive spires block the road. Here was once the large glacier of Monte Emilius, but today only small snowfields remain.
Leave on the left the trail that goes up the Emilius ridge and scramble on boulders and talus toward Colle Garin
(2815m), easily accessible (3h45 min from Pila). Near the col, at the base of the final steep slope on the Arpisson side is the small but very handy fixed bivouac Franco
Nebbia (2851 m), which sleeps 6.
From Colle Garin, do not descend to the bivouac; instead, cross the slope under the Arbole spires and aim for Lago Garin
(2853m).
Variant: Lago Garin may also be reached from Valle di Cogne, climbing in its entirety the hanging valley of Arpisson from Epinel
(1452m) or, preferably, attaining the Arpisson cottages after a long traverse from Gimillan
(1787m). From the cottages, ascend the splendid valley, whose upper part is known as Pian Bessey. Behind you is the spectacular view of the Grivola. Before reaching the steep final slope, go past Bivouac Nebbia and continue right (east) until Lago Garin.
From this point the majestic Punta Garin towers about 600 meters above you. Scramble up talus and broken rocks to the shoulder of the southwest ridge
(3207m). Follow the ridge as it becomes more difficult, especially if you stay on the crest (there is a short beautiful dihedral in correspondence to a cliff clearly visible from below, but it can be skirted on the left). The last stretch is airy and very enjoyable; it alone justifies the whole route. (3h 30min - 4h from lake Garin).
Descend along the crest of the northwest ridge. After a few ups and downs you will get to passo di Valaisan
(3196m) in about 1h 30min. From the pass, on fine scree (careful!) descend toward Arbole until you reach the primitive trail. Watch out for the frequent rockfall from the ramparts above you.
Elevation gain: about 1700m both from Pila and Gimillan , less than
1200m if you use the chairlift Pila-Chamolè.
Ascent time: 7-8 h.
Equipment
Mountaineering equipment. A rope is recommended.
Campings
Remember that free camping is forbidden (except for emergency reasons, over 2500m, from darkness until dawn).
Mountain Condition
- You can get weather forecasts at the official site of the Regione Valle d'Aosta:
Valle d'Aosta Meteo
Webcam
- WEBCAM on Aosta Valley:
Webcam
Books and Maps
BOOKS:
- "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
- "80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d’Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
- "Guida del Monte Emilius" di Osvaldo Cardellina Editore in collaborazione con il Club Alpino Italiano Sezione di Aosta, Dicembre 1978 (in Italian).
- "Rifugi e bivacchi in Valle d'Aosta" di Cosimo Zappelli aggiornata da Pietro Giglio. Musumeci Editore, Luglio 2002.
- "Guida dei Monti d'Italia – Emilius-Rosa dei Banchi-Parco del Mont Avic" di Giulio Berutto e Lino Fornelli - Club Alpino Italiano/Touring Club Italiano, Marzo 2005 (in Italian).
- "Ascensioni 1964-1969" Diario Alpinistico di Ilario Antonio Garzotto (unpublished).
Monte Emilius GROUP
