Page Type: | Area/Range |
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Lat/Lon: | 45.52660°N / 25.21100°E |
Activities: | Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling |
Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
Elevation: | 7346 ft / 2239 m |
The part of the main ridge which extends north from La Om (or rather north from Şaua Grindului (Grind Saddle), which is just south of La Om) is understandably called Creasta Nordică (North Ridge), whereas in the opposite direction stretches Creasta Sudică. The second highest and the most prominent peak on the North Ridge except La Om is Ţimbalul Mic (Little Dulcimer in English) at 2231m, with a prominence of almost 120m. But the most impressive in the Ţimbalele group, which lies halfway along the North Ridge, seems to be Ţimbalul Mare (Great Dulcimer) at 2177m, over 90m of prominence. The highest summit on the South Ridge is Umerilor at 2209m (over 60 m of prominence) facing La Om over Şaua Grindului.
The main ridge trail is intersected by waymarked paths at the following points:
The western face of the Piatra Craiului is an imposing wall whose highest parts are virtually inaccessible to non-technical climbers, except the few routes listed above (whose hardest bits are secured with metal cables) and a couple of unmarked paths reaching UIAA grade II, that is to say more or less YDS 5.2 in terms of technical difficulty. This western flank of the mountains is cut by steep ravines, called padinas in these mountains, which are lined by and elaborately decorated with thousands of limestone walls and spires, among which you can get lost easily. The La Lanţuri route, which is part of the line dividing the North Ridge from the South Ridge, passes by some beautiful limestone arches at a spot called La Zaplaz, which used to be known as Deubel Holes. Talking of karst arches, the largest and most magnificent is Cerdacul Stanciului at the western base of the South Ridge.
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The mountains have been designated a National Park so you are only allowed to camp at the campsites by the huts. If you get caught off the waymarked trail, you are likely to incur a fine of several hundred euros! Here's more about the Park rules A few kilometres north-east of the town of Zărnești the Libearty Sanctuary has been set up. Several dozen bears, mostly Romanian, are enjoying a new life there. |
In wintertime relatively few people go climbing in the Piatra Craiului, on the other hand, among those few people the percentage of SP members seems to be a little higher. :) In June there can still be plenty of snow in the couloirs and ravines. In July and August, the trails can get crowded in places. July can be rainy, depending on the year. Late summer and the first half of autumn seem to offer the best chance of your enjoying whatever snowless fun you have come for. |
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The national Salvamont (mountain rescue) dispatcher's telephone number is: 0salvamont or 0725 826668
You can hire a guide, such as this. |
In summertime, finding accommodation at the foot of the Piatra Craiului is not difficult. There are several huts (in winter they are usually packed with people), often with an adjacent camping ground, around the mountains. The town of Zărneşti offers a range of guesthouses. The mountains are dotted with characteristic shelters (refugiul's), most of which look like halved soccer balls. These refuges are rudimentary, but unlocked and offering shelter if the weather gets foul or if it's getting dark. Two of them are located on the main ridge, both at above 2100m. The first huts and shelters in Piatra Craiului were built toward the end of the 19th century by the Siebenbürgischer Karpatenverein. (Transylvania used to be much more multi-ethnic - more info in this SP article.)
The most convenient base for the North Ridge area is a place called Plaiul Foii, where a hut has stood for over a century and where today there are several facilities in which rooms/beds can be rented, plus a campground where one can pitch the tent (do not count on peace and quiet). For the South Ridge area, Cabana Garofiţa Pietrei Craiului (cabana = hut) can be a nice place to stay. The most convenient hut for Piatra Mică is no doubt Cabana Curmătura at 1470m, the only problem being the quality of service and cleanliness, of which there have been some not very enthusiastic opinions in recent decades, so to some a cozy guesthouse in Zărneşti may be a more appealing option. |
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Maps which can be studied online Paper maps Books and movies
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