Punta Tersiva is an elegant pyramid-shaped mountain placed among three valleys: Clavalité (towards Fènis), Urtier and Grauson (towards Cogne). From its summit it is possible to admire one of the most attractive 360° views of the entire alpine circle, including all the mountains of the Aosta Valley, from the Gran Paradiso Massif to the Monte Rosa Group.
They say that, from its summit, some climbers were able to catch sight of the whole plane of the Po River (Eastwards) and even the Ligurian Sea (Southwards).
In the foreground, it's of particular interest the view of the Emilius Group, as well as towards Valeille, Bardoney and Acque Rosse valleys.

Pano view from the summit of Tersiva; an unlabelled version can be seen here

Pano from Tersiva

01)   Monviso 3841m
02)   Punta Nera 3064m
03)   Torre di Lavina 3308m
04)   Lago del Miserino 2672m
05)   Punta Gialin 3270m
06)   Punta di Eaux Rousse 2952m
07)   Punta della Tsesère 3117m
08)   Cima di Bardoney 2710m
09)   Colle dell’Arolla 2912m
10)   l’Arolla 3246m
11)   Monveso di Forzo 3322m
12)   Punta di Forzo 3296m
13)   Roccia Azzurra 3308m
14)   Punta delle Sengie 3408m
15)   Punta Ondezana 3492m
16)   Ghiacciaio delle Sengie
17)   Ghiacciaio di Valeille
18)   Punta di Loye 2676m
19)   Lago di Loye 2354m
20)   Punta Fenilia 3054m
21)   Punta di Valmiana 3244m
22)   Punta Tsissetta 3419m
23)   Punte Patrì 3581m
24)   Torre di S. Orso 3618m
25)   Torre di S. Andrea 3651m
26)   Torre del Gran S. Pietro 3692m
27)   Roccia Viva 3650m
28)   Testa del Gran Crou 3437m
29)   Testa di Valnontey 3562m
30)   Testa della Tribolazione 3642m
31)   Punta di Ceresole 3777m
32)   Cresta Gastaldi 3894m
33)   il Roc 4026m
34)   Gran Paradiso 4061m
35)   Ghiacciaio della Tribolazione
36)   Ghiacciaio di Tsasset
37)   Ghiacciaio di Gran Val
38)   Piccolo Paradiso 3926m
39)   Becca di Montandayné 3838m
40)   Punta Budden 3683m
41)   Herbetet 3778m
42)   Gran Serz 3552m
43)   Grand Vallon 3215m
44)   Ghiacciaio del Lauson
45)   Ghiacciaio del Tuf
46)   Punta dell’Inferno 3393m
47)   Punta del Tuf 3393m
48)   Grande Rousse 3607m
49)   Col Lauson 3295m
50)   Punta Rossa della Grivola 3630m
51)   Punta Nera della Grivola 3683m
52)   Punta Bianca della Grivola 3793m
53)   la Grivola 3969m
54)   la Grivoletta 3513m
55)   Ghiacciaio del Trajo
56)   Grand Nomenon 3488m
57)   Mont Favret 3187m
58)   Testa del Rutor 3489m
59)   Chateau Blanc 3408m
60)   Punta Pousset 3046m
61)   Punta del Vallonet 3135m
62)   Penne Blanche 3254m
62b)  Punta Coupè 3214m
62c)  Testa di Money 3130m
63)  Mont Creya 3015m
64)  Doravidi 3432m
65)  Flambeau 3315m
66)  Ghiacciaio del Morion
67)  Ghiacciaio di Chateau Blanc
68)   Colle di Planaval 3016m
69)   Punta Chenal 3207m
70)   Becca Nera 3263m
70b) Becca Bianca 3261m
71)   Monte Paramont 3301m
72)   Punta de la Crosatie 2933m
73)   Ghiacciaio del Breuil
74)   Punta Miranda 3066m
75)   Punta Léchaud 3128m
76)   Punta Tsaplana 2659m
77)   Punta Arpisson 3030m
78)   Punta Coppi 3231m
79)   Punta Fleurie 3258m
80)   Mont Grauson 3240m
81)   Punta Garin 3448m
82)   Punta Rossa dell’Emilius 3401m
83)   Punta di Laures 3367m
84)   Monte Emilius 3559m
85)   Lago Lussert medio 2800m
86)   Lago Lussert superiore 2905m
87)   Punta di Leppe 3305m
88)   Punta Laval 3091m
89)   Punta Gianni Vert 3148 m
90)   Cresta del Tessonet 3313m

91) Punta del Tessonet 3264m
92) Mont Vallonet 3098m
93) Colle di S. Marcel 2916m
94) Colle di Laures 3036m
95) Colle di Leppe 3103m
96) Grande Roise 3357m
97) Petite Roise 3279m
98) Becca di Salè 3137m
99) La Grande Crete 2908m
100) Punta Chermontane 2680m
101) Aiguille des Glaciers 3816m
102) Aiguille du Trélatete 3930m
103) Ghiacciaio de la Lex Blanche
104) Ghiacciaio del Brouillard
105) Ghiacciaio della Brenva
106) Mont Blanc 4810m
107) Mont Maudit 4465m
108) Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 4108m
109) Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m
110) Aiguille du Midi 3842
111) Dente del Gigante 4013m
112) Colle del Gigante 3359m
113) Dome de Rochefort 4015m
114) Grandes Jorasses 4208m
115) Pointes des Hirondelles 3525m
116) Petites Jorasses 3658m
117) Aiguille de Leschaux 3759m
118) Aiguille de Talèfre 3730m
119) Monte Greuvetta 3684m
120) Aiguilles Verte 4121m
121) Aiguille de Triolet 3870m
122) Mont Dolent 3823m
123) Ghiacciaio del Toula
124) Ghiacciaio di Frébouzie
125) Ghiacciaio di Pré de Bar
126) Glacier du Mont Dolent
127) Glacier de l’A Neuve
128) Tour Noir 3836m
129) Aiguille du Chardonnet 3824m
130) Grand Darrey 3514m
131) Mont Fallere 3061m
132) Monte Saron 2681m
133) Mont Velan 3734m
134) Cresta del Morion
135) Becca di Viou 2856m
136) Mont Mary 2815m
137) Tsaat a l’Etsena 2971m
138) Grande Tete de By 3588m
139) Tete Blanche 3418m
140) Grand Combin de Valsorey 4164m
141) Grand Combin de Grafeneire 4314m
142) Grand Combin de Tsessette 4141m
143) Tour de Boussine 3826m
144) Tournellon Blanc 3707m
145) Bec de l’Alia 3437m
146) Fenetre de Duran 2803m
147) Mont Pleureur 3704m
148) La Ruinette 3875m
149) Mont Blanc de Cheillon 3870m
150) Pigne d’Arolla 3796m
151) Mont Gelé 3518m
152) Bec Epicoun 3529m
153) Becca Blanchen 3680m
154) la Sengla 3714m
155) l’Eveque 3716m
156) Mont Braulè 3591m
157) Dents des Bouquetins 3838m
158) Tête de Valpelline 3802m
159) Dent Blanche 4357m
160) Dent d’Hérens 4171m
161) Grandes Murailles 3903m
162) Testa del Leone 3715m
163) Theodulhorn 3469m
164) Cervino (Matterhorn) 4478m
165) Gobba di Rollin 3902m
166) Breithorn 4165m
167) Roccia Nera 4075m
168) Polluce 4092m
169) Castore 4228m
170) Lyskamm occidentale(W.) 4460m
171) Lyskamm orientale (E.) 4527m
172) Punta Dufour (Monte Rosa) 4634m
173) Punta Zumstein 4561m
174) Punta Gnifetti 4559m
175) Piramide Vincent 4215m
176) Punta Giordani 4046m
177) Ghiacciaio di Ventina
178) Ghiacciaio di Verra
179) Ghiacciaio di Felik
180) Ghiacciaio del Lys occidentale (W.)
181) Ghiacciaio del Lys orientale (E.)
182) Punta Tersiva 3513m

The best route is on the NNW side, along the Tessonet ridge; the other sides have to be avoided because of the poor quality of the rock. The North side is very spectacular; one can catch a glimpse of it going along the main road n° 26, between the localities of Champagne and Fénis. Under the North face one can see the small Glacier de la Pointe Tersiva, that late in the summer takes on a greyish colour, because of the frequent fall of detritus from the wall; even if small, nevertheless it becomes spectacular with the first snowfalls, appearing as a tormented glacier crossed by many crevasses.
At the foot of the pleasant N-W face there is the Tessonet glacier; the South side is not of any remarkable interest, since it is made up of wrecks and broken big rocks.

First Ascents

Firs Ascent W Arête: P. B. Chamonin (Curate of Cogne) with a student, (Aug 23th, 1842).
First ascent winter: G. Corona and others, (Feb 17th, 1875).
S-E Arête: G. P. Carrel, J. A. Garth Marshall, P. Giacosa and E. Jantet, (Jul 1872).
N-NW Arête: D. W. Freshfield and F. Dévouassoud, (Aug 1877).
S-SW Arête: F. Santi and G. Cavagnot, (Aug 1895).
S-W Wall: L. and R. Marchetti and L. Jantet, (Sep 01th, 1898).
E Arête: E. Bravo, B. Garelli, C. Giachino, O. Nay, G.Pollano A. Maquignaz and others, (Jun 24th, 1901).
N-NE Wall: Gigi Panei and Lucien Salval, (Sep 05th, 1937).
Wall S: I. Minet, E. Gontier, N. Gontier and D. Glarey, (Jul 27th, 1952).
N-W Wall: Osvaldo Cardellina, (Sep 10th, 1988).

Getting there

BY CAR:

From Torino, Milano, etc: Motorway A5. Exit in Aosta Ovest. Drive to the near Aymavilles. Follow in the direction of Valle di Cogne.

From Switzerland: through the Grand St. Bernard Tunnel or the homonym Pass). Drive to Aosta, then follow Courmayeur direction on SS.26. Just after Sarre, turn to the left, in the direction of Valle di Cogne.

From France: through Mont Blanc Tunnel or Petit St. Bernard Pass). It isn't necessary to enter in Motorway A5, you can drive through SS.26 Aosta direction. Before arriving at the Village of Sarre, follow the sign and turn right towards Valle di Cogne.
After Aymavilles, the regional road n°47 crosses the Villages of Vieyes, Epinel and Cretaz and after about 25 Km. arrives at Cogne (1534m).

Follow the road signs for Gimillan and Lillaz; arrived at a round-about, recently built in proximity of the St. Anthony Chapel, go left along the scenic route leading to the Village of Gimillan (1787m), 3 Km. after Cogne. Usually no parking problem.

Going right at the roundabout, after 3 Km. the road arrives at the Village of Lillaz (1615m), famous for his wonderful waterfalls. From Lillaz starts an unpaved and uneven road, appropriately closed to the cars (except 2-3 days in August, on the occasion of San Besso and Madonna delle Nevi festivities). It follows all the long Urtier Valley as far as the recently built Sogno di Berdzè Hut (2526m), at the foot of the Finestra di Champorcher (2828m), pass connecting the Urtier and Champorcher Valleys.

BY PLANE:

Aeroporto Internazionale "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe: www.airvallee.com

Routes

ROUTE TO PUNTA TERSIVA FROM GIMILLAN

Difference in height: about 1800 m.
Ascent time: 7-8 hours
Descent: along the ascent route
Equipment: duvet, rope, crampons and ice-axe

Go right starting from the car park of Gimillan: after few meters the indications for Lussert Lakes, St. Marcel Pass, etc. are found.
The pathway is indicated by the yellow circle 9A and by yellow strips marked on stones along the route. The path begins going immediately uphill, then the slope decreases as we go beyond a little chapel dedicated to the Virgin (1836m).
Soon the path resumes to go up and splits in two, before it begins to penetrate into the Grauson Valley: it's possible to continue following the right one that goes down as far as the Ecloseur Bridge (1904m), but in such a case we must go up again; it's better to follow the left one that, in practice without losing height, arrives at the bridge under the Alpeggio Pila (2025m), cross it and, following the stepped pathway, overcome the rocky bastion with a fine waterfall aside.

At this point the path turns right markedly entering, high on the torrent, into a small valley; by an alternation of steep and slight slopes, it reaches a panoramic cross, on the edge of a pleasant plateau ( superb view of the far Grivola!). The path goes through the meadows, slightly descendind: after the Alpi di Grauson Vecchie (2271m), cross the torrent on the Pikaciù Bridge and begin again to go up, reaching the wide upper part of the Grauson Valley. For the first time the Tersiva put it in appearance, while, looking into the distance, the end of the valley appears, close by the Passo d'Invergneux (2905m) and the Serra Madù, WSW ridge of the Tersiva.

Shortly afterwards one meets the signs indicating the ways on the left to Laures Pass (3035m) and St. Marcel Pass (2916m).
On the contrary go straight ahead along the pathway n°4, few meters later you can see on the right the Alpeggio Pralognan (2418m). Continue as far as the ruins of the Alpeggio Ervillières (2519m), then make your way towards the foot of the Tessonet glacier, ascend it as far as the steep rocky pass at the height of 3312m. Go on the wide and rather easy NNW ridge, often snow-covered, leading to the final summit (3513m), where you find a trigonometric signal and a statue of the Virgin.

The route from Gimillan, as well as very long, in practice is lacking in any support point, since the Bivouac Tentori (12 places), got in a wing of the Alpeggio Grauson Nuovo (2540m), burned into flames in the year 2001.

ROUTE TO PUNTA TERSIVA FROM LILLAZ

Difference in height: about 1900 m.
Ascent time: about 8 hours
Descent: along the ascent route
Equipment: duvet, rope, crampons and ice-axe

Starting from Lillaz on the left of the Urtier Torrent, follow the short cut in order to avoid the curves of the winding road and, passing above the waterfalls, enter in slight descent into the Urtier Valley.
You can follow strictly the road, but it's advisable to leave it; in correspondence with the Gollie (1854m), cross the Urtier torrent on a little bridge and follow along the path to Bardoney Valley. Don't enter in it, turn left and after the hut of the rangers of the Gran Paradiso National Park (you are just on the border of the Park), go on straight to Teppe Lunghe. Here you can see the end of the Urtier Valley and, avoiding all the deviation on the right (Acque Rosse Valley, Miserino's Lakes, Arietta's Pass), you can arrive and rest at the Sogno di Berdzé hut (2526m), if you have two days at your disposal. Vice versa go down towards the Alpe Broillot (2396m) and, after the Alpe Pianas (2406m), begin to follow the road in the direction of the Alpe Ponton, then turn left to Alpe Invergneux (2518m). The path goes on (NW direction) ascending along steep grassy slopes covered by detritus. The last part of the path runs on detrital ground as far as the Invergneux Pass (2905m), placed at the extreme limit of the WNW ridge, known also as Serra Madù, of the Punta Tersiva. Climb the ridge as far as it splits (approximately 3200m),: a secondary branch goes towards NW in direction of Tessonet Glacier.
Left the ridge, lower yourself along some tens of meters, reaching the glacier and cross it toward NNW ridge, where one meets the route from Grauson Valley. Ascend as far as the pass (3312m) and then go on the big ridge towards the summit (3513m).

Gear

Mountaineering equipment, including rope, ice axe, and crampons.

When to Climb

CLIMBING: during the summer months, taking into account the condition of the snow.

SKI MOUNTAINEERING: April - June
The route from Gimillan is recommended for ski mountaineering, paying attention in particular to the part of path between the rocky rampart above the Alpe Pila and the cross before the Alpi di Grauson Vecchie: avalanches can fall from both slopes into the narrow valley, in the case of heavy snow-falls and sudden changes of temperature.

Mountain conditions

PAY ATTENTION!

Because of the last torrid summer seasons, Tessonet Glacier must be crossed roped together and very cautiously, since many crevasses have put in an appearance.
It is highly recommended to contact the Società delle Guide di Cogne for further information

Huts

Rifugio Sogno di Berdzé (2526m)

Rifugio Sogno di Berdzé

Bus lines

SAVDA bus lines connect Aosta to Cogne.
In addition, both in summer and in winter, SAVDA shuttle bus connect Cogne with the villages (Gimillan and Lillaz, in our case).

Red tape

No restriction at all: Punta Tersiva is very near but outside the borders of the Gran Paradiso National Park and Monte Avic Natural Park.

Campings

In all the Aosta Valley the camping is allowed only above 2500 meters.

Meteo

Meteo: you can find all the needed informations at the official site of the Valle d'Aosta Region:
Valle d'Aosta Meteo

Webcam

WEBCAM on Aosta Valley:
Webcam

Books and Map

BOOKS:

"Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
"Guida della Valle di Champorcher" e "Guida della Valle di Cogne" di Mario Aldrovandi Ed. Lattes Torino 1930-1932.
"Guida della Regione Autonoma Valle d’Aosta" di Mario Aldrovandi; Ed. S.P.E. di Carlo Fanton Torino 1964, (2a Ed. 1975).
"80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d’Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
"Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso Valli di Champorcher-Clavalitè-Saint Marcel-Laures-Cogne-Valsavarenche-Conca di Pila" di Giulio Berruto 3/volume 2°, IGC, Torino 1981, 2a Ed. 2000. (in Italian).
"Ascensioni in Valle d'Aosta 1921-1933" Diario Alpinistico di Amilcare Crétier Edizione Sezione di Verres del C.A.I. e Biblioteca di Vèrres. Stampa Arti Grafiche Tamari Bologna, Luglio 1993 (in Italian).
"Guida dei Monti d'Italia – Emilius-Rosa dei Banchi-Parco del Mont Avic" di Giulio Berutto e Lino Fornelli - Club Alpino Italiano/Touring Club Italiano, Marzo 2005 (in Italian).
"Diari Alpinistici" di Osvaldo Cardellina e Indice Generale accompagnato da Schedario Relazioni Ascensioni 1964-2009 (inediti).
"Libro di vetta" 1922/1974, archivio di Osvaldo Cardellina, (inedito).

MAPS:

Kompass "Gran Paradiso Valle d'Aosta" Sentieri e Rifugi-Carta Turistica 1:50.000.
I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale "Gran Paradiso-la Grivola" Carta Turistica 1:25.000.
I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale "Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso" Carta 1:50.000.
Hapax Luglio 2000 "Les Sentiers" Comunità Montana Monte Emilius 1:25.000.
L'Escursionista "Valle di Cogne Carta dei Sentieri" (n°10) 1:25.000.
L'Escursionista "Tour de la Vallée de Cogne Grand Paradis" Carta dei sentieri 1:25.000.
Hapax "Les Sentiers de Champorcher", Agosto 2001 1:25.000.
Enrico Editore Ivrea-Aosta "Gruppo del Gran Paradiso" 1:50.000.

Important Information

REGIONE AUTONOMA VALLE D'AOSTA the official site.
FONDAZIONE MONTAGNA SICURA Villa Cameron, località Villard de la Palud 1 Courmayeur (AO) Tel: 39 0165 897602 - Fax: 39 0165 897647.
SOCIETA' GUIDE ALPINE DI COGNE Tel. 347/9473526 – 328/1373728.
A.I.NE.VA. (Associazione Interregionale Neve e Valanghe).
A.IA.T. Cogne Gran Paradis via Bourgeois n° 34 Tel. 0165-74040. Internet site: www.cogne.org E-mail: aiat@cogne.org

Ezio Sport articoli sportivi - via Bourgeois n° 64 Tel. 0165-74204.

Useful numbers

Soccorso Alpino Cogne (SAR) Tel. 3482685406.
Protezione Civile Valdostana località Aeroporto 7/A Saint Christophe (Ao) Tel. 0165-238222.
Bollettino Meteo (weather info) Tel. 0165-44113.
Unità Operativa di Soccorso Sanitario Tel. 118.

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