OverviewThe first ascent of this mountain was during the month of August, year 1842, when the priest Giovanni Gnifetti (this the reason of the italian name "Punta Gnifetti") and seven Guides reached the peak starting from Alagna.
Alpinism history in Monte Rosa group begun in 1778, when seven Italian people from "Gressoney" went up from south side to discover the mythical lost valley: they believe that over the mountains and the ridges existed a paradise, with animals and fruit-threes, ancient home of their ancestors. The higher point to reach by the seven people (at about 4000 meters) was called "stone of the discover.
The first ascents are in 1801 when the preast Giordani conquered the peak calls with his name. In the same period Zumstein (Zumsteinspitze) , Vincent (Vincent Pyramide) and, finally, the priest Gnifetti, conquered other Monte Rosa peaks.
On the top is situated the highest refuge situated in Europe, built with the help and the visiting of the italian Queen Margherita (from her the name of the refuge, "Margherita").
Getting ThereSWISS SIDE:
Monte Rosa Hutte (2795m):
You reach the hut from the station Rotenboden (Gornergrat cable car) over the Gornerglacier in 2 - 2,5 h, 200hm up and down. The way over the glacier is partly marked by poles. From the station Rotenboden, you choose the way with S-direction to the ridge saddle in the E of the Riffelhorn (signs). After a few 100 meters, the way goes up over the Gornerglacier to the E and slightly down to the S-flank of the Gorner-ridge. You reach the Grenzglaicer and traverse it to the S till you reach the E-side of the Grenzglacier. You climb up on the glacier below the hut. You reach via the moraine in short zigzag (100hm).
You can also come from the station Stockhorn. You pass the Stockhorn in 30 min. to the E to the Stockhornpass and traverse the Gornerglacier at the foot of the Nordend (NW). Then you go at the left side down and along the Monte-Rosa-Glacierbreak and the rocks. You reach the edge on about 3120m (pole). You go up slightly on the S-side and traverse the middle tongue of the Monte-Rosa-glacier to the Unteren Plattje and the hut (2-3h)
You can also make the long ascent over the whole Gornerglacier (about 9 km from Furi, 4 h, 940 hm). About 1 km northwestern of the icy glacier-tongue, the road from Furi ends.
You reach the train to the Gornerridge from Zermatt.
You reach Zermatt (1616m) with car or bus from Visp/Brig and by train from Täsch. Zermatt is well-know in the whole world as one center of the Walliser Alps. You are not allowed to drive your car in the village.
Brig is the main city of the upper Wallis and the junction of the trains:
a. Bern-Lötschberg-Simplon-Domodossola b. Furka-Oberalppass (Andermatt/Disentis, Glacierexpress) c. Brig-Visp-Zermatt d. Lake of Geneva-Milano
In Brig, many busses arrive as well: a. Simplon-Gondo b. Saastal c. Blatten d. Mund e. Rosswald
You reach Visp/Brig by car:
a. from the West: From Geneva (airport) on the A1 to Lausanne, on the A9 via Montreux, Martigny and Sion to Sierre. From Sierre the road no. 9 with direction to Brig. But at Visp, you turn already right to the S with directin to the Saaser valley. In Stalden, you turn right and leave the Saaser valley to the left. Here, the Matter valley beginns. Via St. Niklaus, Randa and Täsch, you reach Zermatt.
b. from the North: from Bern on the A6 to Spiez, from here the road to Kandersteg, at Kandersteg, you drive your car on a train and go by train through a tunnel; end of the tunnel: Goppenstein; you continue the road to the S and reach the main road from Sierre. On the crossroad, you turn left (E) and reach Visp. From here, continue as route a.
c. from the East: from Bregenz on the A13 to Chur; turn off at Reichenau and continue the road no. 19 to Brig/Visp via Flims - Sedrun - Andermatt - Gletsch - Fiesch. From Visp, continue as described in a.
d. from the South: either from Como on the A2 via Bellinzona to Airollo, then road no.2 till Hospental and here to the left on the road no. 19 to Brig/Visp or from Arona till the end von the A26 and then the E62 via Domodóssola to Brig.
You come from the Rif. Gnifetti.
2. To the RIF. GNIFETTI (3647 m):
You reach the hut from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna), in 1,5 h via Rif. Città di Mantova (350 hm), 45 min. from Rif. Mantova, 7 h from Alagna (2420hm). In the lower part, it is a marked way (no. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, You traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes). From the hut, you go up over the E-side of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the Gnifettihut.
You reach Punta Indren on the marked hiking way no. 5 from Alagna via Dosso (1357m). You go to the Alpe Oltu (1847m, cable car station, 1,5 h) and furth in the Valle d'Olen up. You go along the Sasso del Diavolo and reach almost Colle d'Olen, wher you turn right to the Vigevano-hut (3 h). You go further along Passo Salati (2936m) to the ridge-crest and traverse Stolemberg. Over the side of the Indrenglacier, you reach the station (1 1/4 h, totally 6 h).
You reach the Gnifetti hut also from Gressoney in 6-7 h (1800hm). The lower part is a marked way (no. 6). Lift to Alpe Gabiet (1270 hm, 4,5 h). In the upper part: easy glacier walk.
You reach Alagna Valsesia by car on the road no. E62 from Brig via Simplonpass. You turn off at Ornavasso (near the Lago Maggiore) and follow the small route to the S via Omegna. Here turn right and drive along the western side of the Lago d. Orta to Borgosésia. In Borgosésia you take the road to the N an reach Alagna via Varallo and Scopello.
When To ClimbThe best period to climb this peak is July (a small presence of crevasses) but generally from June to the beginning of September. Looking for reaching the peak in other seasons is quite dangerous nad possible only by skies. It's necessary absolutely to use the crampons and the ice-axe during the summer. It's also recommended to climb on the rope (presence of crevasses on the path).
starting from Val Sesia : rif. Barba-Ferrero - canalone Sesia and SW ridge - (Motta-Gugliermina-Schiavi 1898) - D+ - SE wall - (Chiara-Guglielminetti 1906 + variants) - 700 m - D+
starting from Val Sesia : rif. Resegotti (3624m) - E ridge : cresta Signal - (Supersaxo-Topham 1887) - 800 m - D - a wonderful classic climb (could be compared to Cresta del Leone to Matterhorn, but without ropes)
starting from Valle Anzasca (Macugnaga) - rif. Zamboni-Zappa (2065m) - NE wall left spur - (Devies-Lagarde 1931) - 2500 m - ED - one ot the most himalayan routes of the alps - NE wall right spur - (Zurbriggen-Pisoni 1933) - 2500 m - ?? - maybe impossible now after the big ice-rock fall
Mountain ConditionsGENERAL INFOS
Tourist office +39-0163-922988
- Club Alpine Varallo +39-0163-51530
- Monterosaski +39-0163-91363
- Alpin guide Alagna +39-0163-913101
Zermatt (CH) and Alagna Valsesia (I)
Alpenverein and Swiss Meteo Phone from abroad: ++411162
- 1:25000 no. 1348 Zermatt
- 1:50000 no. 5006 Matterhorn-Mischabel
- 1:50000 no. 284 Mischabel
- 1:50000 no. 294 Gressoney
- Hermann Biner, Hochtouren im Wallis. Vom Trient zum Nufenenpass. 2nd ed. 1996. ISBN 3-859022-160-5
- Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998. ISBN 3-7633-7427-2
- Michel Vaucher, Walliser Alpen. Die 100 schönsten Touren. 2nd ed. Munich 1990. ISBN 3-7654-2124-3
- Michael Waeber, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1999. ISBN 3-7633-2416-X
Alpin Guides Alagna Valsesia: number +39-0163-91310.
RefugesMonte Rosa Hutte (2795m): The Monte-Rosa-Hütte is situated northwestern of the Monte Rosa at the west side of the Plattje above the Grenzglacier.
- 170 beds - run from middle March till middle September - winter room with 12 beds always open - phone: ++41(0)27/9672115 - hut often very full! - internet: Monte-Rosa-Hütte or www.vs-wallis.ch
Ref. Mantova (3470 meters): +39-0163-78150
Ref. Gnifetti (3647 m):
The Rif. Gnifetti is situated on a rockspur between the Lysglacier and the Garsteletglacier.
(according to Dumler) - 277 beds - winter room with 15 beds (blankets and kitchenware) - serviced from middle april till middle september - phone: ++39/016378015 - internet: www.vs-wallis.ch
On the Signalkuppe is situated the highest refuge in Europe, the Capanna Regina Margherita in which is possible to sleep but ONLY after a acclamatization in a refuge at about 3000 m.; this one to accustom oneself to altitude! During July and August a lot of alpinists leave to arrive on this peak, the most frequented among the peaks of the region for its easy route.
About the photos of all the Monte Rosa peaks, look the site Monte Rosa 4000
The nearest campings are situated in Riva Valdobba: - camping Alagna (+39-0163-9121) - camping Pastore (+39-0163-91220)