The Bieszczady Mountains belong to the Northeastern Carpathians - formed of flysch, their highest summits of hard sandstone - and they are usually divided into two mountain groups: the Western and the Eastern Bieszczady. Most of the main ridge of the Western Bieszczady constitutes the border between Slovakia and Poland. Its easternmost bit forms the Poland-Ukraine border, then ends just beyond it at the pass of Uzhok (Użocka Przełęcz/Uzhotskyi pereval) on the territory of Ukraine, where the Eastern Bieszczady begin. In Ukraine, the name "Bieszczady" is usually replaced with "Skhidni Beskydy". Their main ridge is part of the water divide between the drainages of the Baltic and Black seas, which is reflected by its Ukrainian name Vododilnyi Khrebet. South of the Western Bieszczady and about seven km west of Pikuy, the Eastern Bieszczady's highest peak, rise the massifs of Ostra Hora and Polonyna Rivna (Runa/Równa=flat), which are regarded as a separate mountain group.
Primeval Beech-Fir Woodland
Tarnica (Borzhava afar)
Looking south
Home to big mammals
Looking north
Sandstone on top
In the Bieszczady, the timberline is formed of beech and runs strikingly low, often below 1200m, which is due to a few centuries of grazing which in the Western Bieszczady ended in the middle of the 20th century, when after the Second World War the local Ukrainian/Rusyn population was deported from the part of the Northeastern Carpathians that remained within the borders of Poland. Until the 15th century few people had lived in the Bieszczady but the second half of the second millennium A.D. saw extensive colonization, exploitation of the woodland, and grazing enormous herds of livestock around the mountain tops. The shepherds, of whom the first may have been Romanian-speaking people specializing in what is called transhumance, cleared the woodland around mountain tops to establish pastures. As a result, the tree line has been considerably lowered. The high mountain pasture in the Bieszczady and elsewhere in the Northeastern Carpathians is known as polonyna (połonina in Polish).
Timberline on Smerek
Most of the area of the Western Bieszczady lies in Poland. The same goes for the highest summit of the Western Bieszczady, Tarnica at 1346m. The mountains extend between Łupków Pass in the west and Uż Pass (Użocka Przełęcz/Uzhotskyi pereval in the east). They are bounded on the west by the Osława and Laborec rivers and on the south by the uppermost course of the Uzh River. Their northeastern boundary generally runs several kilometers NE of the upper San River. (The Ukrainian bit which lies NE of the uppermost course of the San has been named Sanske Beskydy.)There are several mountain ridges in the Polish part of the Western Bieszczady:
The main ridge - both an international border and a water divide - whose highest summit is named Wielka Rawka (1304m)
Wysoki Dział in the west, east of the Osława River ridge (Wołosań, 1071m) - few human visitors, vast forest, good chance of seeing the big Carpathian mammals, such as the bear and the wisent
Łopiennik group (1069m), east of the ridge of Wysoki Dział
The Połoninas of the Western Bieszczady - spring
The Ridge of the Połoninas, on which the highest summit of the Western Bieszczady stand: Połonina Wetlińska (1255m) NW of Wielka Rawka; Połonina Caryńska (1297m) NE of Wielka Rawka, W of the village of Ustrzyki Górne; Tarnica (1346m) in the Tarnica-Halicz subgroup, east of Ustrzyki Górne
Otryt (Trochaniec, 939m), on the north side of the San River just above Solina Dam (the ridge of Otryt can be classified as part of the Sanok-Turka Mountains, which form the foothills of the Western Bieszczady)
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Movie created by LukZem during his eight visits to the Western Bieszczady: part 1/2
On the territory of Slovakia, the Western Bieszczady are called Bukovské vrchy (Beech Hills).
Bukovské Vrchy
Havešová primeval forest
In the west they are surrounded by the Laborec Hills and in the south by the Beskyd Hills. Its main ridge stretching along SK/PL border is covered by the clusters of primeval beech forests, inscribed to the World Heritage List. Bukovské Vrchy are divided into two mountain subgroups:
Bukovce - the northern part whose highest summit is Veľký Bukovec (1012m)
Nastaz - the southern part (800m) with Havešová primeval beech forest being a UNESCO’s World Natural Heritage
Skhidni Beskydy
Stuzhytsia primeval forest
The Ukrainian corner of the Western Bieszczady between the Slovak and Polish borders, south of the main ridge, is called Skhidni Beskydy or Stuzhitski Beshchady. Their southern boundary is formed of uppermost course of the Uzh river, whose spring can be found near Uzhotska pass. Stuzhytsia primeval beech-fir forest – a UNESCO’s World Natural Heritage is the main landmark for the lovers of wilderness. The border massif of Stynka is the place, where the largest meteor in Europe had fallen in 1866.
Movie created by LukZem during his eight visits to the Western Bieszczady: part 2/2
The table below lists the highest peaks in the Western Bieszczady.
Bieszczady's highest peak - to see the mountain page for more information, please click "Tarnica" to the left of the photo.
Krzemień
1,335
2nd highest peak, the rockiest of all in the Bieszczady, 1 km long sandstone ridge which was originally called Hreben (i.e. "Ridge"), blue stripes from Wołosate
Three-summit ridge with sandstone crags on the crest. According to W. Krukar until World War II the mountain was called Połonina Dźwiniacka by the local people. blue stripes Otryt-Wołosate, yellow stripes from Muczne
The highest summit of the Western Bieszczday's main crest (which is part of the international border), dome-shaped ridge, half a kilometre long, with an avalanche-prone NE face. blue stripes from Ustrzyki Górne, green/yellow stripes from Wetlina/Mala Rawka
Four-summit, 5 km long mountain pasture, whose highest culmination is called Kruhly Wierch, red stripes Ustrzyki Górne/Berehy Górne, interpretive trail
The highpoint of Połonina Wetlińska rises in the eastern part of the massif and is called Roh (literally "horn" in Rusyn/Ukrainian); steep S face, Puchatka Hut (the highest hut in the Bieszczady) situated at the easternmost culmination, red stripes from Smerek/Berehy Górne, yellow stripes from Przełęcz Wyżna/Zatwarnica/Wetlina, interpretive trail
Kińczyk Bukowski
1,251
The highest summit of Uzhanskyi National Park, situated on the PL/UA border. The southernmost tip of Poland - Opołonek peak rises a few kilometers past Kińczyk Bukowski, access to the area is officially forbidden!
grey stripes interpretive trail from Verkhovyna Bystra/Uzhok Pass
Smerek
1,222
At the northwest end of the Ridge of the Połoninas, in the massif of Połonina Wetlińska. Smerek is separated from the main part of the massif by a low (1075m) pass named after Mieczysław Orłowicz, renowned Polish hiker, author of about a hundred guidebooks.
A T-junction of three international borders (Slovakia/Poland/Ukraine), the highest summit of Slovakia's part of the Bieszczady Mountains, called Bukovské Vrchy by the Slovaks, as well as the easternmost point of the Slovak Republic. yellow/blue stripes from Wetlina/Ustrzyki Górne, red stripes from Nová Sedlica/Stuzhytsia
W Bieszczady at their E end
When To Go & Weather
The climate of the Western Bieszczady is continental with snow cover lasting from November till the beginning of May. The annual amount of precipitation exceeds 1100 mm and July is the rainiest month. If you are seeking solitude, a hike in the Bieszczadzki National Park in the middle of the summer season is definitely not a good idea. September is often said to be the best option - for two reasons: fewer people and the trees turning colors.
Late summer and early autumn often offer favorable weather conditions, besides the gorgeous scenery of the colorful broadleaved woodland. Winter in the Bieszczady Mountains is very romantic as there are hardly any visitors and you have unique panoramic views for yourself: from the High Tatras on the western horizon to the Gorgany Mountains far east inside Ukraine.
Europe's largest area of montane beech forest is found in the Bieszczady Mountains, where the borders of Poland, the Slovak Republic and Ukraine meet.The dominance of beech (Fagus sylvatica) is reflected by the name of the Bukovske Vrchy (Beech hills). Special circumstances have made it possible for extensive remnants of virgin forests to persist in this transboundary area until today. The first forest reserve called Stuzhytsia was established in 1908. In 2007 this primeval forest with another well preserved forest reserves like Udava, Havešová, Rožok were inscribed to the UNESCO's World Heritage List as Primeval beech forests of the Carpathians.
Movie created by LukZem during his eight visits to this trilateral wilderness: part 1/2
Western Bieszczady rank among the wildest corners of Europe and can be considered as a true "Wildlife hotspot". There is hardly any comparable place in continental Europe, where you can encounter the complete spectrum of ungulates (wisent, elk, red deer, wild boar, roe deer) and predators (brown bear, wolf, lynx, wild cat, fox). Another distinctive feature of the area may be that there is no other place in Europe where nature has replaced human management.
Video footage of extremely rare encountering with the wolf in Bieszczady Mountains by LukZem
The table shows the list of LukZem's recorded wildlife observations, which were taken during multi-year visits of trilateral Western Bieszczady territory:
Species
Photo
Observed at
A few words
Wolf
San Valley Landscape Park
About 150 individuals, the highest density of wolf packs in Europe.
Wisent
Poloniny National Park
About 200 animals roaming free especially in Polish part.
Ural owl
Stuzhytsa primeval forest
Forest-dwelling species, its territorial call can carry up to two km
Viper
Poloniny National Park
Encountered on the trail without any signs of fear from my presence.
Black stork
Bieszczady National Park
Its favourite river valleys are San, Wetlinka, Prowcza and Osława.
Red deer
Poloniny National Park
Several hundred individuals, prefer remote forest complexes, rich food resources result in healthy populations of mature animals reaching the weight of more than 250 kg
Nutcracker
Stuzhytsia primeval forest
This typical representative of spruce woodland also found refuge in Stuzhytsia's primeval beech forest.
Roe deer
Poloniny National Park
Game animals are common
and serve as a nutritional basis for the large predators.
Silver-washed Fritillary
Uzhanskyi National Park
Its preferred habitat is thin, sunny, deciduous woodland.
Grey-headed Woodpecker
Poloniny National Park
This rare bird representative was observed near Stuzhytsia mixed woodland.
Fox
San Valley Landscape Park
Lucky to observe six isolated foxes on the meadows near Zatwarnica.
European Dipper
Poloniny National Park
Associated with running rivers and streams, it dives as well as walks into the water.
Grass snake
Poloniny National Park
It lives or reproduces in water filled depressions.
Buzzard
Bieszczadski National Park
It breeds in woodlands, usually on the fringes, but favours hunting over open land.
Squirrel
Poloniny National Park
Its diet consists primarily of a wide variety of plant food, including nuts, seeds, conifer cones, fruits and fungi.
Grey Wagtail
Poloniny National Park
Usually seen on open marshy ground or meadows where they walk solitarily or in pairs along the ground.
Common frog
Bieszczadski National Park
It breeds in shallow, still, fresh water. The females, which are generally larger than the males,lay about 1,000 eggs which float in large clusters.
Black woodpecker
Poloniny National Park
Typical representative of Stuzhytsia and Havešová primeval forests.
Wasp spider
Uzhanskyi National Park
The spider builds a spiral orb web at dawn or dusk, commonly in long grass a little above ground level, taking it approximately an hour.
Carpathian blue slug
Poloniny National Park
This species is endemic to the Carpathian Mountains in Eastern Europe.
White stork
Poloniny National Park
Nesting pair in the center of Runina village.
Spotty salamander
Havešová primeval forest
Lucky to observe more than 30 individuals in single one rainy day.
Meadow Brown
Uzhanskyi National Park
Its larvae feed on grasses, such as Sheep's Fescue.
White-backed Woodpecker
Rožok primeval forest
It is the largest of the spotted woodpeckers in the boreal and temperate climate ecoregions.
Blackspotted pliers support beetle
Poloniny National Park
Larvae develop in silver fir, hazel and European beech.
Movie created by LukZem during his eight visits to this trilateral wilderness: part 2/2
If you intend to visit the Ciśniańsko-Wetliński or the Dolina Sanu (the San Valley) landscape parks, the best option is to drive to Lesko (Sanok - Ustrzyki Dolne section) and then continue southwards to Baligród or Cisna. Ukraine's Nadsianskyi Regional Landscape Park is accessible by train.
Wild camping on the Polish and Slovakian territories is forbidden.
The Western Bieszczady Mountains are one of the best protected areas in Europe. A large chunk of the mountains is part of the East Carpathians Biosphere Reserve - the first trilateral UNESCO's Man and Biosphere project in the world. It is the largest biosphere reserve in Europe with a total area of nearly 2 000 square kilometers. It contains six protected areas within the borders of three countries.
Movie created by LukZem during his visits to the Bieszczady, Poloniny and Uzhanskyi National Parks
Movie created by LukZem during his visits to the Cisniansko-Wetlinski, San Valley and Nadsanskyi Landscape Parks
As most of the Bieszczady National Park area (70%) has the status of a strictly protected zone, public access to the park requires a well prepared system of marked tourist trails. Standard National Park rules apply, such as: no camping, stick to the marked routes, do not disturb wildlife, etc. During the tourist season a small fee (about 1 euro) is charged for entry to Bieszczady National Park.
Almost the same goes for Slovakia's Poloniny National Park except from fee charging. Hikers are allowed to make use of two PL/SK border-crossing points:
Border-crossing point
Season
Opened daily
Hiking trail
Located at
Balnica - Osadné
1.6. - 30.9.
9:00 - 18:00
yellow stripes
Westernmost part
Roztoki Górne - Ruské sedlo
1.4. - 30.9.
9:00 - 18:00
yellow/blue stripes
The west-central part
The situation in Ukraine's Uzhanskyi National Nature Park is now getting better and some campsites, hiking trails and rest places have been set up. You can follow newly marked red stripe trail (Velikiy Bereznyi - Yavirnyk - Dubovy Haj - Stynka - Stuzhytsia - Ceremcha - Lubnya - Verkhovyna Bystra - Scherbyn - Uzh Pass).
NB: Ukraine is not part of the European Union, so the regulations are much stricter, and border-crossing is out of question. According to my experience, it is good to ask the border police if you are allowed to visit Ukrainian piece. It is also advisable to report your plans at the headquarters of Uzhansky NNP at the town of Velikiy Berezniy. Nadsanskyi Regional Landscape Park is accessible only with a permit from Mostyska border office!
East Carpathian Biosphere Reserve
East Carpathians Biosphere Reserve is the largest biosphere reserve in Europe. In November 1992, under the Man and Biosphere Program, UNESCO designated a Polish-Slovak bilateral Biosphere Reserve. In October 1998 the Ukrainian part joined to form the first trilateral Biosphere Reserve “the East Carpathians” - a unique treasure of global importance, combining immense wildlife value with rich cultural heritage.The reserve contains some of the least disturbed ecosystems e.g. part of the largest European natural beech forest complex, Eastern Carpathian mountain meadows called “poloniny”,and protects endemic and threatened mountain plant species and communities. It constitutes one of the most important refuges for large animals of primeval habitats of Europe. Unique fauna is composed of all native big predators like the brown bear, wolf, lynx and golden eagle, as well as all big native herbivorous mammals like the European bison, red deer and reintroduced Hutzul horse.
Movie created by LukZem during his eight visits to the East Carpathian Biosphere Reserve
East Carpathian Biosphere Reserve covers 200,000 hectares (in Poland 53%, in Slovakia 19% and in Ukraine 27% of the total area) and encompasses six protected areas within the borders of three countries:
Bieszczady National Park, Cisna-Wetlina and San Valley Landscape Parks in Poland
Poloniny National Park and its buffer zone in Slovakia
Uzhansky National Nature Park and Nadsyansky Regional Landscape Park in Ukraine
San Valley LP - spring
Uzhansky NP/Nadsansky RLP - winter
Poloniny NP - summer
Poloninas, mountain grasslands at timberline, are a species-rich and representative formation of the East Carpathian mountains. Most are secondary communities that arose due to cattle grazing on mountain ridges. Poloninas also includes species recognized as Dacian migro-element, such as bellflower (Campanula abietina), monkshood (Aconitum lasiocarpum), and compact pink (Diantus compactus). In recent years the polonina grasslands on the summits have undergone prominent floristic and faunistic changes due to lack of grass cutting and non-grazing of domestic animals. Generelly, the flower-rich polonina grasslands lose their human-induced biodiversity and thus create a problem for future management of the Biosphere Reserve.
Siberian Iris
Compact Pink
Snowdrop
The most valuable architectural landmarks are the wooden churches, with rare iconographic decorations in the interiors. Eastern Orthodox wooden churches are located in the villages of Ulicske Krive, Rusky Potok and Topola. The Eastern Slavic ethnic group, to which the Ruthenians belong, had their ethnic identity reflected in their architecture.
The international importance of the East Carpathians Biosphere Reserve can be illustrated by these facts:
Fragments of old Carpathian virgin forests are still preserved over vast areas of the Reserve and the natural beech stands are the biggest in Europe. No wonder in 2007 the clusters of primeval beech forests were inscribed to the UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
East Carpathians Biosphere Reserve is the only territory, where mountain meadows called poloniny are being protected.
Also it is one of the wildlife hotspots, where big forest animals roam free.
Low population density over a relativelly large territory makes East Carpathians Biosphere Reserve unique within Europe.
Bieszczady National Park
Is established on August 4th, 1973 (gradually enlarged In 1989, 1991, 1996 and 1999). It covers an area of 29.201,62 ha now. It is the largest mountain and third largest national park in Poland. (after Biebrzański and Kampinowski Parks)
It protects:
Kingdom of poloninas
Map of BdNP
Natural forest ecosystems along with numerous animal populations
Poloninas stretching above upper forest limit with its distinctive flora and fauna of the Eastern Carpathian character
Picturesque valleys of former villages, called “the land of valleys”
Since 1992 it constitutes a central part of the first trilateral International Biosphere Reserve “Eastern Carpathians”.
Bieszczady National Park (BdNP) conducts and supports scientific research and promotes ecological education by organizing public access of selected natural resources in the Bieszczady Mountains.
In 1998, as the second place in Poland, it was awarded a Diploma of the European Council for protected areas.
BdNP includes the most important and beautiful places like Polonyna Wetlinska, Polonyna Carynska, the highest summit of the Western Bieszczady – Tarnica and valley of the river San.
Beauty of Bieszczady
Around four hundred thousand tourists go trekking along the trails in the Bieszczady National Park each year, especially during summer season. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on one’s point of view - for example the inhabitants) the number of tourists is growing each year. This doesn’t change the fact that the Bieszczady Mountains, with its low population density, unique countryside and unforgettable scenery, are a perfect place for long, trekking excursions, which could provide one with experiences for a whole life. They are a cult location, a must see for everyone who admires wild nature, quiet and open stretches of land. Countless of people are drawn here in search of silence, clean air and crystal clear water. The serene nature of the Bieszczady is exceptionally gracious for those who love photography of wild nature.
However, these trips require proper preparation and experience, which is always worth remembering while planning a trip.
Tourist activities within the area of the Park are only allowed along marked trails and paths of individual purposes like trekking, skiing, cycling and horse riding. Trekking as a main activity of hikers is described in the separate section.
Mb tourism - concrete road to Dzwiniacz Gorny
Horseback riding - road to Suche Rzeki
Mountain biking
On BNP area it is forbidden to ride a bike along trekking route, nature paths or horse trails but cycling is allowed along public roads and marked bike trails. The total length of mountain bike trails running in BNP is 47,4 km. e.g. trip from the border of BNP across village (Łokiec), along concrete road to Dzwiniacz Gorny and to the border of BPN near Tarnawa Nizna (about 9km.)
Skiing
Bieszczadzki Ski Event
Horseback riding
Mountain Horse riding in the Park and its buffer zone is only allowed along marked trails and on the Park’s horses (the Hutsul horses which originate from the Eastern Carpathian Mountains) or on other horses with a special permit of the director of the park. Suggestion of trails:
- Wolosate – Tarnawa (about 30 km / 6 h)
- Tarnawa – Suche Rzeki (about 36 km / 8 h)
- Wetlina – Wołosate (about 22 km / 5 h)
Bieszczady National Park is one of the few European mountainous areas with relatively well preserved native fauna and flora. It is worth to remark that the plant cover and the fauna have been created in result of spontaneous secondary, regenerative succession, which has lasted here since the end of World War II. That ecological phenomena doesn't occur so long and at so large scale in other mountainous areas of Central Europe. Wonderful mountain vistas, vast beech woodland and high probability of meeting wild animals – these are the main features of Bieszczady National Park - the area fondly known as the 'Polish Wild East'.
Movie created by LukZem during his two visits to the Bieszczady NP
Routes
I post here only a very little part of all possible route but in my opinion with the most important places and with the most unforgettable views.
Main destination – Tarnica, Halicz
Ustrzyki Górne, blue marked trail with green marked natural trail (the sign: spotted salamander, 19 stops), there is possibility to take a bus because of long concrete road which is boring (about 1,5h by foot) – Wołosate, red marked trail with green marked natural trail (the sign: long-flowered primrose, 28 stops)and also concrete road but this time without possibility of taking bus (3h by foot) – Bukowska Pass, red marked trail (about 1h) via Rozsypaniec – Halicz, red marked trial (about 1h) – Siodło Pass, yellow marked trail (1/4h) – Tarnica (the highest peak in Bieszczady, 1346 m), yellow marked trail (1/4h) – Siodło Pass, red marked trail with green marked natural trail (the sign: Spring snowflake, 26 stops)via Szeroki Wierch (2h) – Ustrzyki Górne (total time 9h)
view of Tarnica (the highest peak in Bieszczady)
Polonyna Bukowska (the Halicz range) from historical- natural trial “Upper San Valley”
Main destination – Polonyna Caryńska, Krzemieniec
Ustrzyki Górne, red marked trail with green marked natural trail (the sign: beech tree, 35 stops) via Polonyna Caryńska (about 2,5h) – Kruhły Wierch, green marked trail with green marked natural trail (1h) – Wyżniańska Pass, green marked trail (1 3/4h) – Mała Rawka, yellow marked trail (0,5h) – Wielka Rawka, blue marked trail (3/4h) – Krzemieniec , blue marked trail (1h) – Wielka Rawka, blue marked trail (1 3/4h) – Ustrzyki Górne (total time 9 1/4 h)
Polonyna Caryńska in very hot day in July
Krzemieniec/Kremenaros
Main destination – Polonyna Wetlińska
Smerek, red marked trail via Wysoka Smerek (1222 m) (about 3h) – Orłowicza Pass, red marked trail with green marked natural trail (the sign: alpine globeflower, 35 stops) via the ridge of Polonyna Wetlińska (2h) – Hasiakowa Skała (Chatka Puchatka – the PTTK Hostel), red marked trail with green marked natural trail (1h) – Berehy Górne
Polonyna Wetlińska - view from PTTK Hostel "Chatka Puchatka"
the sign to Polonyna Wetlińska in the Osadzki peak (1253 m)
Nature paths in Bieszczady National Park go along tourist and routes. The stop points are marked in the field. The special guidebooks contain detailed descriptions which extend your knowledge about the Park. The guidebooks can be purchased in the information points. There is 12 natural paths and 5 of them run via this three examples of routes. Other:
Nature trail “Bukowe Berdo”, sign: rock pink, 24 stops
Nature trail “Suche Rzeki – Jaworniki”, sign: brown bear (only for participants of educational programmers organized by BPN)
Nature trail for disabled persons “Zwrót Valley”
Heritage trail “Upper San Valley”, sign: beaver, 19 stops.
Bukowiec, blue historical – natural trial via non-existing village Beniowa and Sianki where is the grave of counts Klara and Franciszek Stroińscy – Wierszek, unmarked trail - spring of San river, length - 444 km., altitude - 950 m.
Moczarny - the grave of counts Klara and Franciszek Stroińscy
spring of San river, length - 444 km., altitude - 950 m.
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![Krzemień - Halicz (1333m) [Bieszczady Mountains - Poland]](/images/medium/640447.jpg)
